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If you look the territory of<br />

Cremona from above, you will<br />

notice a thick network of intersecting<br />

lines, which almost get<br />

mixed up with the streets. It is actually<br />

the provincial network of<br />

irrigation and boat canals, which<br />

has been an essential element for<br />

the local economy and agriculture<br />

for centuries. The towpaths that<br />

coast the courses of water are now<br />

greenways that allow you to travel<br />

and do some physical exercise<br />

far from the smog and the traffic<br />

of the national roads.<br />

The cycle-road<br />

of the Walled Towns<br />

The cycle-route of the Walled<br />

Towns passes through the most<br />

interesting towns surrounded by<br />

historic walls in the province of<br />

Cremona, from Pizzighettone to<br />

Soncino. The Torre del Guado,<br />

in Pizzighettone, the symbol of<br />

the entire route, is the starting<br />

point. You will exit the walls and,<br />

riding along the Serio Morto<br />

River, you will arrive in Formigara.<br />

The route passes through<br />

the Regional Natural Park of<br />

Adda Sud, among a countryside<br />

spotted by farms and riding<br />

schools. The woody oxbow lakes<br />

will accompany you up to San<br />

Bassano. From the small village<br />

of Santa Maria dei Sabbioni you<br />

will continue north-ways passing<br />

through the two irrigation ditches,<br />

called Bernarda and Gallotta,<br />

a plain dotted with characteristics<br />

farms that leads you to<br />

Soresina. The modern town is an<br />

industrial point of reference for<br />

the wide farming area. After few<br />

thrusts on the pedals, you will arrive<br />

in front of the Santuario di<br />

102 Straight stretches of water • The province of Cremona<br />

Adiadello, while in Tomba Morta<br />

you can glimpse the most important<br />

hydraulic junction in Cremona.<br />

Soncino is the final destination<br />

of your route; the impressive<br />

walls built by the Sforzas embrace<br />

its historic centre, which<br />

consists of small blocks of houses<br />

along with the towering fifteenth<br />

century fort, one of the<br />

best preserved in Lombardy.<br />

The Navigli of Cremona<br />

1 st stage<br />

Our adventure starts in Paullo,<br />

in the province of Milan, even<br />

though the real starting point is<br />

actually when you cross the Adda<br />

River reaching the towpath of<br />

Canale Vacchelli.<br />

The canal, which is an extraordinary<br />

work designed by the engineer<br />

Pietro Vacchelli in 1887,<br />

allowed the irrigation of most of<br />

the plain of Crema. The route<br />

follows the water on a pleasant<br />

dirt track so that you may fully<br />

enjoy the glimpses of the plain of<br />

Crema. Some short detours lead<br />

you to some very interesting spots<br />

full of history: the Castello Visconteo<br />

in Pandino is considered<br />

one of the most interesting fortified<br />

areas of the region. Palazzo<br />

Pignano, nearby, hosts the<br />

Romanesque Parrocchiale di San<br />

Lorenzo, which testifies an illustrious<br />

past followed by a contemporary<br />

silent atmosphere of the<br />

rural village. Once you have arrived<br />

near Cremosiano, you will<br />

take the Ciclabile dei Mosi on<br />

your right, which shortly leads<br />

you to Crema, where the<br />

Lombard environments melt with<br />

the remnants of the old Venetian<br />

domination. Do not miss the two<br />

artistic gems: the gothic Dome<br />

with a “wind façade” and the elegant<br />

Renaissance Santuario di<br />

S. Maria della Croce, 1 km far<br />

from the centre.<br />

The Navigli of Cremona<br />

2 nd stage<br />

Leaving Crema behind, you will<br />

cross the Serio River coasting<br />

Canale Vacchelli again. The<br />

route continues similarly to the<br />

first stage with less historic sights,<br />

but surrounded by a delightful<br />

countryside, which brings to<br />

memory the “artificial homeland”<br />

praised by Carlo Cattaneo.<br />

In Tombe Morte you will<br />

see an extraordinary scene: the<br />

meeting of the canals of Cremona<br />

and their following departing.<br />

From here you will continue<br />

along Naviglio Civico di<br />

Cremona, a canal built by the<br />

ancient Romans and extended<br />

by Azzone Visconti in 1337.<br />

You will coast its course that<br />

runs southward, leaving it only<br />

for a short stretch between Casalmorano<br />

and Mirabello Ciria.<br />

In Casalbuttano, a real cycle<br />

track begins, which is almost entirely<br />

paved, being a remarkable<br />

example of cycle-tourist road<br />

that ends in Cremona. There<br />

are several sights to visit in the<br />

city, especially the buildings in<br />

the centre: the Dome, the<br />

Torrazzo, the Babtistery and the<br />

Palazzo del Comune, which<br />

form a rare homogeneous mix of<br />

structures.<br />

• Sotto:<br />

Santuario<br />

di Santa Maria<br />

della Croce<br />

a Crema<br />

• Below:<br />

the Santuario<br />

di Santa Maria<br />

della Croce<br />

in Crema<br />

103

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