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La villa, situata nella parte<br />

antica di Anacapri,<br />

risale al XVII secolo.<br />

Colette’s villa, located<br />

in the old part of Anacapri,<br />

dates back to the 17th century.<br />

opere come Ces Plaisirs… e Chéri raggiungono<br />

diverse migliaia di copie, mentre<br />

i suoi servizi giornalistici sono attesi<br />

da sempre più numerosi ammiratori entusiasti.<br />

Nel luglio del 1915 torna in Italia, questa<br />

volta come inviata speciale del giornale<br />

Le Matin. Da Lugano raggiunge<br />

Venezia e successivamente Roma. Come<br />

nella sua prima visita, continua ad annoiarsi.<br />

Trova la città stranamente ferma<br />

nel tempo e lontana, anche allora<br />

che si era in tempo di guerra. Decide, allora,<br />

di ritornare a <strong>Capri</strong>. Qui raggiunge<br />

Anacapri e va direttamente a via Timpone,<br />

dove contratta l’acquisto della casa<br />

scoperta cinque anni prima.<br />

In poche settimane i vecchi muri dalle<br />

volte a vela riprendono vita. Colette<br />

adesso è ricca ed è tra i più grandi<br />

▼<br />

both male and female lovers<br />

after her relationship with<br />

Missy broke up.<br />

After losing her amour, Colette<br />

found herself having to earn<br />

her living, and decided to<br />

embark on a career in the<br />

theatre, performing as a<br />

dancer and mime at the<br />

leading Parisian music halls,<br />

together with the already<br />

famous Polaire. During those<br />

years she promoted the myth<br />

of herself as a liberated<br />

woman, who shared herself<br />

with many lovers, in the belief<br />

that “the senses are a source<br />

of power in the human body.”<br />

And she unashamedly showed<br />

off her own body, even<br />

exposing her breasts,<br />

welcoming “every kind of<br />

forbidden experience” and<br />

creating a scandal.<br />

Her visit to Italy in 1910<br />

marked a turning point and the beginning of a<br />

new stage in her life.<br />

The trip was a gift from her young admirer<br />

Auguste Heriot, son of a very wealthy<br />

Parisian family that owned the Grand<br />

Magasins du Louvre. Heriot had courted her,<br />

invited her to the best restaurants in Paris and<br />

showered her with gifts, and now he hoped to<br />

win her heart forever by inviting her on this<br />

holiday.<br />

They had just arrived in Italy in mid-July,<br />

when Colette was informed that her divorce<br />

had become final. Now, after years of being<br />

eclipsed, she was free not only to reveal that<br />

she was the author of the Claudine series, but<br />

to publish under her own name Le<br />

Vagabonde, the novel that was serialized in<br />

the magazine La Vie Parisienne.<br />

She was bored during their stay in Rome,<br />

finding the city empty and too quiet. She<br />

spent whole afternoons walking her dogs in<br />

the Villa Borghese or on the deserted slopes<br />

of the Palatine Hill. To her, the city seemed to<br />

be asleep, despite its myriad colours and<br />

atmospheres. So she decided to go south,<br />

and Heriot followed her reluctantly.<br />

In November, they reached Naples and the<br />

Amalfi coast, from where she sent brief letters<br />

home: “My dear Mother, we are having lunch<br />

in Positano, in a country that is too beautiful to<br />

be true.” And the next day: “I was dazzled<br />

when I arrived here. I have to confess that the<br />

Bay of Naples lives up to its reputation.”<br />

If truth be told, the journey tired her and she<br />

experienced considerable discomfort, but the<br />

constant discoveries, the light, the scents and<br />

the uncontaminated scenery captivated her<br />

senses and her mind. She wrote few notes,<br />

sent only short messages to reassure her<br />

mother and “put up with” her dispirited travelling<br />

G.B. BRAMBILLA - NERI<br />

companion’s advances. In actual fact, her young<br />

and inexperienced beau bored her, as she<br />

confided to her friend Léon Hamel: “I’m never<br />

going to manage to write a letter. Today boat,<br />

carriage, boat, storm.” In other words, it was a<br />

“tour de force” with a friend who was no fun.<br />

Despite the unpredictable weather, the rain<br />

and the rough sea, she decided to go on to<br />

<strong>Capri</strong>. She didn’t have a pleasant trip, because<br />

the rocking of the boat made her seasick. But<br />

when she sailed along the coast of the island<br />

of Procida, she forgot everything and went into<br />

raptures over the magnificent gardens that<br />

were “so old, and filled with roses and orange<br />

groves”. But the sea got rougher and she<br />

started feeling seasick again. Finally they<br />

docked at <strong>Capri</strong>. Colette was completely spellbound<br />

by its beauty. She was seized with<br />

tremendous energy, and in just a few days she<br />

had seen everything, travelling the length and<br />

breadth of the island without stopping. She<br />

wanted to see every single thing, immerse<br />

herself in the island’s atmosphere, get to know<br />

its history, and the people. She became more<br />

and more excited, and went to visit one of the<br />

now legendary sites: “I am off to the Blue<br />

Grotto, which you go into through a tiny<br />

entrance and where everything is illuminated<br />

by a phosphorescent and unforgettable blue<br />

light,” she wrote, enthralled. The blue island<br />

had captured her heart for ever.<br />

Colette then started going for long walks along<br />

the more isolated, quieter roads. And it was at<br />

Anacapri that she found her new house. In the<br />

street that is now known as Via Timpone, she<br />

spotted some old eighteenth-century buildings<br />

that were part of the San Michele monastery<br />

complex. Colette fell in love with the place at<br />

first sight, but told no one how much she<br />

wanted the property, not even her increasingly<br />

miserable and desperate companion.<br />

Her stay on <strong>Capri</strong> ended soon after, as did her<br />

liaison with Heriot – which had never really<br />

come to anything – whose character she<br />

described most insightfully to her confidant<br />

Hamel: “My young companion sends his<br />

greetings. He’s very kind when he’s alone with<br />

me, but he’ll never be happy; it’s as if his<br />

personality were rooted in sadness.”<br />

When she returned to Paris in December she<br />

met Henry de Jouvenel, co-editor of the<br />

newspaper Le Matin and her future husband.<br />

She married him in July 1913, three months<br />

after her beloved Sido died. They had a baby<br />

girl, who was named after Colette’s mother.<br />

Colette was now becoming the leading light of<br />

Parisian literary circles. Her books, including<br />

the Claudine series and new works such as<br />

Ces Plaisirs… and Chéri, sold thousands of<br />

copies, and her newspaper articles enjoyed an<br />

ever-wider enthusiastic readership.<br />

In July 1915 she returned to Italy, this time as<br />

Le Matin’s foreign correspondent. From<br />

Lugano she went to Venice and then on to<br />

Rome, where she was bored again. She felt ▼<br />

45

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