Pathfinder instructions - The WoodRat

THE WoodRat 

PATHFINDER 

The Pathfinder is a system of plates that works as 

an accessory to the WoodRat WR5, the LittleRat 

LR1, the current WR900 and the WR600. It’s made 

up of the Pathfinder Parts, the MitreBox MB3 and 

one of a series of Templates. What it will produce 

will depend on the type of Template used. 

1 

®

Contents 

Introduction 

Before you begin 

parts not included in the Pathfinder 

The Pathfinder 

MitreBox MB3 

Pathfinder Parts 

The Templates 

Tenons 

Set up for Tenons 

Making the tenon 

Making the mortise 

Dovetails 

Set-up for Dovetails 

Grooving 

Symmetrical Dovetails: 

Run of Pins 

the Tail sockets 

Test Pins 

Asymmetrical Dovetails 

Half Blind or Lapped Dovetails 

Set-up 

Making classic drawers 

Tail sockets 

Test pins 

Run of Pins 

The Blank Template 

2

Introduction to the Pathfinder 

A few years ago certain companies began producing 

Mortise and Tenon jigs to simplify the process 

of making mortise and tenon joints and at the same 

time to solve the problem inherent in routing with 

a round bit, which is that it makes round ended 

mortises – the proverbial square peg in the round 

hole. 

This niggled at us too, but having the WoodRat as 

a starting point, the direction it took us surprised 

us by producing not only a foolproof way of cracking 

out tenons, but it also led on to a whole variety 

of joints – tenons, through dovetails and half-blind 

dovetails and all sorts of shapes and so on, each 

ve Moreover it was all based on familiar WoodRat 

technology. 

The one thing that it did not produce was an easy 

way of making mortises. But then mortises are traditionally 

made in a very separate way from tenons, 

and our solution for them, the MR4 Mortise Rail, has 

also led us to a lot of other ways of making many 

interesting things. 

I hope you get great pleasure from the Pathfinder as 

well as finding it useful. It is still in the experimental 

stage and the invitation is there for you to join us 

in discovering innovative ways to use it. Keep in 

touch. 

3

The WR600, WR5 and the WR900 

make a suitable platform for the Pathfinder. Use your 

Alu GuideRails and Router Plate RP3 (with new hole 

configuration) and raising plate if necesary. Older 

GuideRails need an extra counterbored M4 hole, and 

you will need to drill and tap older Router Plates or buy 

a new RP3 Router Plate. The new Ali Fences are ideal for 

firming up the MitreBox. 

6541 Starknob 

Halfplate 

3141 Guiderail Left 

4262 

Aluminium 

Fence 

Attaches to the Left 

hand Cheek to secure 

the MitreBox. 

5616 M4 16 

M6 Locking key x 2 

Aluminum Bracket 

5684 4M Nut 

3. Pathfinder 

Templates 

There are a growing selection 

of Templates for a wide variety 

of tasks. They can be made to 

order. 

6461 Routerplate 

6421 Lobed Washer 

Left-hand Cheek 

Drop Pin 

4 

3142 Guiderail Right 

M6 Locking screw x2 

PARTS LIST 

PARTS FOR THE PATHFINDER Pf1 

The Pathfinder uses the WoodRat MitreBox MB3 to hold the workpieces plus several 

new components (Pathfinder Parts) that enable it to track the pathways in the 

Templates. Templates come in a variety of patterns depending on the joint or 

3316 Raising Plate 

Use your Raising 

Plates if needed for 

extra depth for 

tenons 

M8 50 

6mm Hex key 

component to be made. 

M8 nut 

M8 Self-tapping inserts 

Tenon Template 

Through DovetailsTemplate 

1. Pathfinder Parts: 

Half plate 

Drop-Pin Plate 

Drop pin 

Bracket 

M6 Locking screws x4 

M8 20 x2 

2. MiterBox MB3 

Left hand Cheek 

Right hand Cheek 


M4 16 x 4 

M4 nuts x 4 

Rod Clamp components 

5424 Locking Lever 


M10 nuts x 4 

M10 washers x 5 

300mm threaded Rod x 2 

Right-hand M8 self tapping inserts x 2 

M8 nut 

5512 Rubber washer x 2 

Rod Lock 

Half-blind Dovetail Template 


Spreader Rod 

Although we will try to advertise any item changes in good time, in the interest of continuous improvement in the quality and value of our products, 

WoodRat reserve the right to change components in colour, function and material without prior warning.

5616 M4 16 

5684 4M Nut 

The aluminium fence has two tee-slots 

that will hold the left-hand cheek firm 

and square to the sliding bar. 

The guiderails have an extra 

pair of counterbored 

4mm holes to take an 

M410 to attach it to the 

half-plate 

The router plate has 

three pairs of M6 holes 

to take the Drop-pin 

plate 

5 

Before you begin 

Some parts are not part of the Pathfinder, as they are 

now a standard part of the WoodRat kit. They can be bought 

separately from your WoodRat dealer if you need them. 

1. The Aluminium Fences 

We have recently introduced new Aluminium Fences to replace 

the earlier moulded nylon ones. Firm and square enough for 

ordinary purposes, they are well worth having for Pathfinder 

work as they allow you firmly to attach the Left hand Cheek 

to the Sliding Bar to form the MitreBox MB3. 

The Fence has two tee slots in it so that the Left hand Cheek 

can be bolted to it with four M4 16 screws to hold it firm and 

exactly square. A third tee-slot behind the finger grip takes 

the Big Cursor. This is not generally of use with the templates 

which have their own way of registering where the cuts are 

to come. 

The ali fences come with wooden faces that allow you to add 

sandpaper to stop the wood slipping. Do not sandpaper the 

aluminium Fence direct. 

But now take off the Ali Fence. Take off the Plywood Face 

and store it, before you put the Left Cheek into the tee-slots 

of the Sliding Bar. 

The M4 16 screws go into cheek. The nuts go on loosely and 

the Cheek is slid into the tee-slot of the Sliding Bar The Fence 

is slid upwards onto the nuts before being screwed to the Bar, 

and the M4 screws tightened. 

2. Ali GuideRails: 

You will need your WoodRat or LittleRat GuideRails. Note 

that there is an extra M4 threaded hole in the HalfPlate. If your 

GuideRails do not have corresponding holes, you will need 

to drill them 4mm counterbored to 8mm to house the head 

of the M4 10 screw. These extra screws stop the routerplate 

from twisting the rails out of true, and hold everything firm on 

the Half Plate. 

3. The New RP3 RouterPlate has 6 x 6mm tapped holes that 

take the locking keys for the Drop-pin plate. If you have an old 

routerplate and you are not confident at drilling and tapping, 

it might be best to buy a new RP3. 

Otherwise the RP3 is similar to the RP2 routerplate except 

that is has two extra tapped M8 holes for attaching fences 

of different types to the underside of the Plate. This allows 

you to use the Router for freehand work without taking the 

router off the Plate. You have the advantage of a larger base 

for the router, plus the ability to make a fence that suits the 

job in hand: 8mm deep for running against an 8mm straight 

edge laid across a sheet of material or, for example, deeper 

for moulding the edge of a table, for example.

Setting up the Pathfinder 

The Pathfinder Pf1 comes in three parts. They can be 

bought separately, or bundled together. If you have an 

MB3 MitreBox you will need only the Pathfinder Parts and 

a Template to begin wo. 

Most of the actions and techniques such as the tracking, holding 

wood in the CamLocks, using the raising plates, plunging 

and depthing the router, will be familiar to anyone who knows 

the WoodRat, but if you are new to it, you will find it helpful to 

read the Manual that comes with your basic machine, and put 

in some practice. 

The workings of the Pathfinder itself are mostly self-evident. Tenons 

are a breeze and Through Dovetails are not too difficult, but 

the Half-Blinds are so quick in operation that it is well worth the 

initial mental effort. It’s even worth following the instructions. 

1. The Pathfinder Parts 

The first part of the Pathfinder is what we call the ‘Pathfinder 

Parts’. 

These need to work with the MB3 MitreBox to complete the Pf1 

Pathfinder. 

1.1. The Halfplate 

The BasePlate of the WoodRat is replaced for Pathfinder work 

by the HalfPlate. The front edge of the Halfplate has a groove 

that takes the tongue cut into edge of all the Templates which 

interlock with it and can slide east/west with no north/south 

movement. Use the M8 25 screws that come as standard with 

the WoodRat kit. 

Raising Plates 

Loosen the HalfPlate and add Raising Plates under it as necessary 

to give more depth of cut. The Raising Plate (or plates) come 

as standard with the WoodRat kit, to allow a greater depth of 

cut when needed for tenons. It uses the M8 25 or M8 50 screws 

which come standard with the WoodRat kit. Plus the M4 10 

screws to hold the GuideRail to the Halfplate. 

1.2 Drop-pin Plate 

The new RP3 RouterPlate is largely the same as the older Plate 

but is modified to take the Drop Pin Plate. This fits into its tee slot 

and is held either side by M6 10 Locking Keys. Its position can 

be adjusted north/south in the RouterPlate, and it can be locked 

down. It determines the distance between the Pin as it wanders 

around the template and the Bit as it cuts the workpiece. 

It governs the distance between the Bit and Pin. 

The Drop Pin 

The Drop Pin has a sprung pin that can be raised and kept up, 

or dropped down to engage with the grooves, islands, wedges 

and pathways in the Template. So, as the Template and with it 

the Workpiece is tracked west/east, the Pin, and with it the Bit, 

can go north/south. 

So in effect, the pin finds its way around any useful kind of Pathway 

cut in the template allowing the bit to travel a similar kind of 

pathway in the workpiece; hence the name Pathfinder. 

6 

M6 Locking Key 

Drop Pin 

Make sure that you have the 

4mm counterbored hole here. 

M6 Locking Key 

Drop Pin Plate

M8 50 

6mm Hex key 

M8 nut 

M8 Self-tapping inserts 

The cheeks are made of HDF which 

is brittle, but can be drilled, worked 

and added to. 

The WoodRat manual gives a lot of 

hints on how to use the MitreBox 

for many other uses than simply 

working at 45° angles 

1.3. The Bracket 

This attaches to the Left Hand Cheek of the MitreBox MB3. The Cheek 

must be fitted with two M8 brass inserts which take the two M8 25’s. 

They go through the two vertical slots, allowing the Bracket, and the 

Template with it, to be raised up under the Guiderails when the Raising 

Plate is in use. 

The Bracket also has two open slots which take the M6 Locking Keys 

screwed into the Template. The keys, when loose, can slide in the 

slots and can be positioned and tightened up, so that the Template, 

sliding in the groove in the HalfPlate may be tracked east/west under 

the RouterPlate, 

This east/west adjustment of Template on the Bracket governs the 

way the joints are laid onto the workpiece. 

1.4. The Brass Inserts 

There are two brass inserts that need to be wound into the two holes 

at the top of the left Cheek. they can be driven in with a large screwdriver, 

but it is simpler to use a long M8 socket head cap screw. If 

you just use the screw, put the insert on it, and wind it in with the hex 

key, you might find that the insert jams on the screw and unscrews 

when you wind the screw out again. A nut on the screw, then the insert, 

before winding it in will prevent this happening. Make sure that 

it winds in straight. 

Recently we have been placing the inserts for you. 

2. The MitreBox MB3 

This is the second part of the Pathfinder 

There are differences between the setups needed for the different 

Templates, but this is the basic system: 

2.1. The Left Cheek 

of the MB3 attaches to the Ali Fence. It is placed first with its ‘toes’ in 

the big tee-slot of the Sliding Bar. The four M4 16 screws are put into 

the four counter-bored holes in the Cheek with the M4 nuts placed 

loosely: the Fence is slid upward taking the nuts into the two tee-slots 

and the Fence is screwed to the Sliding Bar with the M8 countersunk 

screws in the usual way. Before the four M4 16’s are tightened fully, 

pull the Fence forward and push the Cheek gently but firmly against 

the Machine Face to take out any slack in the Bar. 

For most work with the Pathfinder you only need the Left Cheek. When 

you do need the Right Cheek, you’ll need the RodLock to hold it all 

firmly, as a Box. 

Set up the parts of the Pathfinder as the diagram. For the WoodRat, 

use the right-hand CamLock. The LR1 and WR600 have only one gate, 

but the process is exactly the same. 

Some people buy an extra fence so that it can be kept permanently 

with the left cheek. 

2.2. The Right Cheek 

The right-hand cheek is the thinner one. You’ll not 

need it for the tenons or for through dovetails: only 

later, for half-blind dovetails, and for mitred work 

generally. 

7

2.3. The Rod Lock 

The threaded rods and how they are used is covered in a later 

section on Half-blind Dovetails. 

3. The Templates 

The third essential part of the Pathfinder is the Template. 

These plates have a shaped long edge that interlocks 

with the Half-plate. They each have a way 

of being screwed to slots in the Bracket, using 

M6 Locking Keys from below. 

3.1. The Tenon Template 

works with straight bits: 8mm 10mm and Half 

inch. It will make Twin and Single and Double 

Twin tenons in a range of lengths. The tenons 

can be made round or square ended. It 

will also make dowels. This technique 

complements mortises made in the MR4 

Mortice Rail. 

3.2. Through Dovetail Plates 

Each plate makes classic through dovetails 

of fixed pitch but for a range of sizes 

of dovetail bit. 

3.3. The Half-Blind Dovetail Template 

is the fastest way to joint drawers. Each Template 

has two different pitches for the same size 

of WoodRat dovetail bit. This Template and the 

correct bit have to be used together. 

3.4. There is also a Blank Template 

You can cut out any shape in 3mm sheet acrylic and make 

from it any wooden shape you wish. Any kind of shape that 

can be devised in the template can cut a similar shape in 

the wood. 

The pathway might make stars, animal shapes for a Noah’s 

Ark, or a line of multiple Santa Clauses. More practically, 

circles or squares will make inter-locking lids and boxes. You 

will need to experiment with different sized bits and different 

thicknesses of wall for the drop-pin to run against. 


8 

Rod Lock 


Spreader Rod

Simple strips of sandpaper 

are quite adequate to hold 

the wood vertical, horizontal 

and at angles. 

9 

Working with the Pathfinder 

Preparation 

However well the WoodRat parts are finished, your Pathfinder 

parts, plates and sliding bar, will need to be thoroughly 

waxed and polished before work can begin. The 

whole mechanism must run like silk. 

When the Template is added it needs to be locked in so 

that there is the minimum of movement when the pin is 

dropped, for instance, in the centre hole in the tenon 

template. You will need to check that the router plate 

runs smoothly fore and back and that there is no sideways 

slap between plate and guiderails. 

It might be necessary to take everything apart to ensure 

that all sliding parts are as slick as can be. 

Holding the work 

Locking a rail in the Camlock is the same as for general Wood- 

Rat work, you need to pull with your fingers and push with 

your thumb as you clamp in the work, to take out any slack in 

the sliding bar, and make sure it’s firmly seated. Bring up the 

Camlock, and lock in a scrap rail, making sure that the Bar 

tracks nicely west/east.... 

and that the Router runs smoothly north/south: if necessary, 

wax all rubbing surfaces. Take out any lateral movement between 

GuideRails and RouterPlate. 

Sandpaper your faces: 

to give some friction to the inner faces of the Cheeks, we recommend 

that you sandpaper the faces. Use impact adhesive, 

pasted on both surfaces and allowed to dry before bonding 

the two surfaces together: this makes for very durable non-slip 

surfaces to hold the work. Alternatively use a rubber cement 

(Copydex) that does not last for ever, but which can be peeled 

off and replaced more easily. 

Use around a 120 grit and trim round the Cheeks with a sharp 

knife. 

Dust Extraction 

Ensure that you have good strong dust extraction, particularly 

for the harmful fine dust. 

Note: LR1 LittleRat users can use the new RP3 RouterPlate for 

all normal LittleRat work except variably spaced half-blind dovetails. 

Either revert to your LittleRat router plate or invest in a HalfBlind 

Dovetail Template and use the Pathfinder. 

The Bracket 

The Alu bracket is set by screwing two M8 20 screws into 

the brass inserts. Do not tighten the screws you have set the 

Template, and raised it up under the guiderails. The slots allow 

you to raise the Template when Raising Plates are in use. 

Check your router for run out. Make a test cut with a straight 

bit in some hardwood scrap to check that a socket made 

with a 10mm bit is indeed cutting 10 mm wide. If it is cutting 

large, check that there is no slack between the guiderails and 

routerplate. 

If there is still serious run-out and you are using a quick release 

chuck, re-insert your original collet and try again. If there is still 

run-out, you have a problem with the router. if not, you have a 

problem with the quick release chuck. In which case undo the 

chuck and turn it a quarter turn and retighten, and test again. This 

may improve the seating. If you cannot improve it, let us know.

A collection of tenons made during the experimental 

stages of developing the Pathfinder. 

The collection comprises tenons double tenons and dowels and stars made 

with a star shape placed in the blank template 

10

Using the Tenon Template 

Aluminium 

guiderails allow the 

router to cut the 

work on the axis 

north/south 

The half-plate 

holds the 

Template as it 

slides East/West 

Bracket is raised so as 

to lift the Template up 

under the half-plate 

Pathfinder Tenons – either single or double – are very straightforward. The Template 

forms not only round ended tenons of various useful sizes, but also dowels at the extreme 

left, and a long tenon that can be used for square ended tenons with haunches at 

the extreme right of the plate. 

Introducing the Tenon Template. 

Polish all sliding surfaces so that everything slides easily when 

it should, or locks down firmly when it needs to be firm. 

Use the left-hand Cheek only. Place one 25mm/1” or two 

12mm 1 /2” Raising Plates under the HalfPlate to give you up 

to 50mm/2” depth of cut. 

The Tenon Template has four lines of Islands – in two pairs of 

two, each pair starts with circles and ends with long islands. 

The top line of each pair is for single tenons; twins are made 

using both lines. 

The tenon Template is designed to make tenons that fit mortises 

cut by an 8mm, 10mm or a half inch (12.7mm) bit. 

11 

Left Cheek of the MB3 

mitreBox only is used 

for makingTenons 

The Drop-pin in the 

Drop-pin plate follows 

around the ‘islands’ in 

the Template, as the 

Bit cuts the 

workpiece under 

the plate 

The Tenon template allows the 

work to move east/west depending 

on the drop-pin controling the 

position of the router. With this 

Template it makes round ended 

tenons – double and twin, and also 

dowels. 

Look at the rail end, and check it against the islands to decide 

whether you need twin or single, or single or double tenons. 

Or double twins. 

Decide which bit you are going to use for your mortises, and 

therefore the tenon size. The Template will make your tenons 

either 8mm, 10mm or half inch, so your mortises will be either 

8, 10 or half inch. 

As the Template is designed to make the tenon fit the mortise, 

you can make the tenons first. This has advantages over 

making the mortises first, as we shall see. 

Decide how long you need your tenon by matching the rail 

end with an Island. At it’s simplest a single tenon will go in 

the centre of the rail, but you can place it where needed. A

twin tenon will have the socket between the tenons 

placed central. To get the length of tenon, place your 

work-piece against the islands to check which to use, 

but note that the actual size of the tenon is 2mm or 

so inside the island. Put a pencil mark on the Island 

you are using so you can find it when it’s under the 

plate. 

With the upper pair of lines, use an 8mm 

straight bit to make a 10mm tenon, 

or a 10mm bit, to make an 8mm tenon. 

With the lower pair of lines, use a 10mm 

bit to cut a 1/2” (12.7mm) tenon, 

or a 1/2” (12.7mm) bit to cut a 10mm tenon. 

Select a bit to make the tenon you want and place 

it in the collet. 

Screw the Template to the Bracket loosely, and track 

it under the Router Plate, threading the Template over 

the supporting groove in the HalfPlate and under the 

GuideRails. Lift the Template and Bracket gently up 

under the GuideRails and tighten the M8 20 screws 

on the Bracket. It should track west/east freely, so 

make sure that it does. 

The Drop-pin Plate 

The Drop Pin screws into the Drop Pin Plate. 

Place the DropPin Plate in the RouterPlate: screw in 

a 6mm Locking Key loosely either side. See how the 

plate will slide north/south when loose, and lock down 

when the screws are tightened. By placing the screws 

in one of the three pairs of holes, the pin can cover a 

distance fore and back across the Template. 

Lift the Pin, making sure that it moves freely over the 

template. Note that the cutter is free to cut at random 

into any work-piece placed in the CamLock when the 

Pin is raised. 

So raise the Bit. Get into the habit of raising the bit after each 

run of cuts. 

Drop the Pin and see how its travel is limited by the Islands of 

the Template. Track the Crank Handle as you move the router 

forward and back and see practice running around the Islands 

in the Template. 

Marking the rail end 

Mark up the end of the rail with two centre lines, the east/ 

west (x-axis) and the north/south (y-axis) line... and cam it 

in place. 

Note that there‘s no need to find the exact centre, as you can 

make two lines, one from each face, rather than fuss about 

finding the centre. Set your cutting gauge to roughly a half 

and make two lines one from each face. One blade of the Bit 

will later line up with one, and the other blade with the other 

cut line, and the Bit will be exactly centered. If you have sharp 

eyes or alternatively good 3 diopter specs, this method will be 

extremely accurate. 

Note that the centre of the tenon might not need to be central 

to the rail. It will depend on your design. 

Locating the Template 

Place the two M6 Locking Keys, in the correct holes for the 

required Island. Note that the locking key holes are found two 

places away to the left of the island you are using (the one you 

marked up earlier). 

Slide the Template so that the Locking Keys engage in the open 

Bracket slots. Tighten them temporarily, and track the Bracket 

and Template under the GuideRails and Router Plate. 

Your marked-up Island will appear under the DropPin as the 

crossed lines on the Rail end appear under the bit, but not 

yet lined up. Now locate the Drop Pin in the hole in the Tenon 

Island (the exact center of the Island). 

12 

north/south 

east/west line 

Cross hairs find the 

centre of the rail end 

The Bit finds the 

middle of the rail, 

while the Pin finds 

the centre of the 

Island 

Two lines give the 

centre line when 

using a bit with 

two blades 

When the Pin is 

in the centre of 

the Island you 

can line up both 

axes on the cross 

hairs.

The half-plate 

which is screwed 

to the Channel 

engages with the 

Template, which 

moves with the 

workpiece. 

The Pin goes into the hole in the 

Island, the Template’s Locking 

Keys are slackened. The Bit lines 

up on the centre line of the rail 

end, and the Keys tightened. 

13 

Slacken the Template’s M6 Locking Keys, and track the rail, 

to centre the blades of the bit (set north/south) to align with 

the y-axis lines. Tighten the screws. This positions the tenon 

east/west on the rail end. 

2. Locating the DropPin Plate 

Loosen the DropPin Plate on the RouterPlate and move the 

Bit so that the blades line up with the horizontal lines on the 

rail end, then tighten the thumbscrews. You’re now aligned 

north/south (on the x-axis). 

The pin is still in the hole, so raise the pin. 

This frees the router bit, so un-plunge the router at the same 

time. 

Make it a habit: raise the router and the pin every time you 

finish a joint. Then you can’t harm anything. 

The Z-axis 

The Channel 

GuideRails 

The Template slides east/west in the groove in the Half-Plate. The Drop Pin in its plate controls the action 

north/south of the router. In effect you run round the template Islands with the Drop Pin which describes 

the shape of the island on the tail end. 

Router Plate with Drop-Pin Plate with 

Pin engaging in the Template. Lift the 

Pin and the router is free 

The Tenon Template 

Make sure you have enough depth of cut. Slide in a raising 

plate as necessary. 

Your rail will be marked out with the size between the stiles 

and cut with adequate length of tenon at either end. So when 

you place the rail beneath the plate you will be able to drop 

the bit to the inside line of the door or frame. No zeroing the 

bit this time.

If you work from an exact centre line, both your tenons will be 

of equal length. They may be too long but you can cut them 

down later. If too short, you will need longer rails. 

Cutting the Tenon 

Drop the bit and with the pin up and the bit down, you’re set 

to go. You can now cut anywhere, so be careful. 

Cut clockwise all around the rail to clean the shoulder of the 

tenon. This without the pin hitting the Island. It is just to skim 

the outside of the rail to make a clean shoulder all round. 

Now drop the Pin and continue to cut the tenon clockwise. The 

Pin wheel will now hit and run around the Island and describe 

the outline of the tenon on the rail end at the same time. Go 

gently and take your time. 

With a little practice, you’ll find the best track to take, and 

will develop your own techniques for maximum speed and a 

perfect finish. 

Go for finish first and speed later. 

Nothing much can go wrong. If you find that the cutter is 

cutting into the tenon, check that your locking pins are reasonably 

tight: the plate or the template can come loose, but 

shouldn’t. 

Be sure you are aware when the Bit is up and harmless, and 

when down and meaning business, and when the Pin is up 

and the bit not controlled by the template and when down and 

only cutting where you need it. 

Repeat for the tenon on the other end by cart-wheeling the 

rail (the face side kept always against the machine face)... and 

then the next, and so on. 

Twin Tenons 

Twins are made by running around the two twin islands together 

on the one rail. The centering method is a little bit 

different: 

Slacken the DropPin Plate Locking Screws. The y-axis alignment 

is done with the pin in the center hole as before. 

But the centreline of the joint north/south is given by placing 

the pin central between the Islands, and aligning the blades 

of the bit on the y-axis lines. 

14 

Now the Pin Plate’s Locking Keys 

are slackened. The Pin stays in 

the hole, but the Bit is brought 

forward to line up with the horizontal 

line. 

The bit cuts round the tenon as 

the Pin rolls around the island.

The halfplate is 

shown partly 

translucent 

3. With the template loose, the pin is 

moved up to the centre hole of the 

island, and the template moved so 

that the pin will fall in to it. 

Tighten the locking keys 

Layout for twin tenons using the bottom pair of lines of islands, 

and the sequence for centering the tenons on the rail. 

15 

Double Twins 

You can make double twin tenons if you don’t mind one pair 

of twins being a little longer than the other. This can be useful 

for placing a lock in the center rail. 

Dowels 

1. the rail is marked up 

with “cross-hairs” and 

tracked under the plate, 

and the bit is centred 

on them. 

2. the drop pin is loosened, 

and taken to 

between the islands and 

the keys tightened. 

4. Now drop pin and cutter, and cut 

the twin tenons in the same way as 

single tenons. 

Dowels are very short round ended tenons, so they are made 

in the same way as tenons, either single or twin. Note that they 

have the advantage that one end of the dowel is integral and 

need not be glued. The tenon is in the rail and stile is drilled 

to fit it, making a stronger joint. 

Note that the dowel can be made in anything... squares or 

hexagonal pieces or twigs with bark on. 

Note also that the bit does not have to be straight. You can put 

nice finials on things with a cove or fancy cutter of any kind. 

Gluing up 

Tip. If you make too good a job of fitting the mortises to the 

tenons, you could find that when you glue up and cramp the 

pieces together, air, trapped in the joint, compresses and 

shoots the joint apart again like an air gun when the clamping 

pressure is released. 

After making the tenon and before taking it out of the Camclamp, 

raise the Drop pin and just touch the tenon with the bit, 

to make an airway. This is quicker than doing it with a chisel.

Haunched Tenons for Cupboard Doors 

When making cupboard doors you can simply use the largest 

tenon island, and run the cuts off both edges of the rail without 

rounding either. Mark out the centre lines of your rail as described 

earlier. Make the two cuts, trimming the shoulders, going clockwise 

with the Pin down. Then raise the Bit by a gauged amount to make 

the haunch. This means unlocking and raising the router itself 

and lowering the Bit onto the gauging piece and locking it 

again. Do not reset the depthing foot, just lift the router. 

Raise the Pin and cut across to make the haunch on one end. 

Cartwheel the Rail and tenon the other end. Make sure you haunch 

the correct end of the tenon. 

Marking out for making a box 

This is a time-honoured method for keeping the parts of a 

project in their proper places and being able to tell which part 

is which when they are disassembled on the bench. 

Place the pieces together in the position that they will occupy 

in the project: the two drawer sides facing away from you, for 

example, and the ends across them, as you might find them in 

a chest of drawers. 

Put them together and draw an arrow across the top edges. 

The arrows point away from you. 

You will then be able to see at a glance which is the top edge 

and which the left side and which the right, and which is the 

inside and which the outside of the box. 

Later you will then be able to see which Side goes with which 

End to make a corner. Understanding this, you will never need 

to get lost again. 

If you have two or more drawers, you can draw a second or 

third line under the arrow, or on the right hand edge of the arrow 

head. It’s simple but effective. 

Making a box with continuous grain 

Take a thick plank and re-saw it. 

The trick is to turn the plank inside out so that the continuous 

inside marking is on the outside. Mark up the parts as shown, 

taking note of which is Side (the long pieces)) and which is 

End (the shorter pieces). When rightly orientated, the arrows 

will point away as shown earlier. 

Mark up the boards with mitres the arrows give you the inside 

and the upside of each piece the four pieces orientated as 

they are in the project with the broken arrows still pointing 

away from you: the two sides, collected together and marked 

with arrows pointing away from you. 

16 

Bit up 

Pin up 

safe 

position 

Bit down 

Pin down 

safe cutting 

as pin follows 

template 

Bit up 

Pin down: 

dry run as 

the pin 

follows the 

template 

Bit down 

Pin up 

Watch out! 

Pin not in 

control 

The two sides, 

collected together 

and marked with 

arrows pointing 

the four pieces 

orientated as they 

are in the project 

with the broken 

arrows still pointing 

away from you 

the arrows give 

you the inside and 

the upside of each 

piece

Dovetailing using the TD Templates 

For all those who have been perplexed by the workings of the WoodRat’s normal dovetailing 

method, this is an idiot-proof Dovetail Jig that never-the-less uses the WoodRat range 

of fine 1in7 bits and produces perfect results. It’s dovetailing for the rest of us. 

Set up for Dovetails 

You need only the left-hand Cheek, the Bracket, one Cam- 

Lock, and one of the Through Dovetail Templates for through 

dovetails. 

As always, through dovetails are made with the angled (dovetail) 

bit going straight through the work, with the straight bit 

cutting at angles to make the pins. 

In other words, the angled bit goes straight and the straight 

bit goes angled. 

So between the square Islands are for the tail sockets, with 

the Pin running straight in the alleys between the Islands.... 

whereas the Pins are made with the wheel running down the 

sides of the angled wedges with the straight bit in charge. 

17 

Start with the dovetail sockets: 

To test the Template, you could make a simple box. You will 

need a pair of boards for the box sides and a pair for the ends. 

Make all the boards the same width, but the shorter pair will 

be the ends and the longer pair will be the sides. 

Mark them up with triangle marks as shown (on page 14) so 

that you don’t get lost and end up with a Z instead of a ring 

of dovetails. 

The bit 

Choose a dovetail bit for the sides that is your next size larger 

than the thic ness of the end or pin pieces. 

Note that you can match the bit size closely to the wood 

thickness, if you have a good selection of WoodRat dovetail 

bits.

You can also plane your wood down if it is too thick for the bit 

that you want to use. 

Tails first 

You cut all the tails first because you can adjust the pin size to 

fit later if you need to. There’s not much you can do to a row of 

tail sockets. 

Select a Dovetail Template. Screw in the two M6 thumbscrews. 

Tighten gently and locate it exactly later (see below). 

What size is the wood? 

The width of the wood: 

With any kind of jig you need to size the work to fit the jig’s fixed 

pitch. This is the downside of having the speed and easy working 

of this particular template. The Pathfinder Through Dovetail 

TD Template has a fixed pitch, but you can use different sizes 

of dovetail bit, and have therefore a lot of alternatives of wood 

thickness at that same pitch. 

As the sockets get larger, in thicker wood, so the pitch gets 

tighter, to a point where it looks camped and needs a wider 

pitch. Then use a larger TD Template. 

Making a symmetrical layout 

Use the Template to show you where your joints are going to 

come on the board end. It’ll show you how many pins you will 

have, and whether you should narrow the boards to avoid oversized 

end pins. 

Find the center line of the board end. When the board is symmetrical 

the line will be in the middle of an island or exactly 

between two, depending on wheth er you have an odd or an 

even number of pins. 

Positioning the Tails 

Place one piece for tails in the CamLock. Make sure that the 

inside is facing you. 

1. Zero the cutter: raise the bit and then zero it onto the top 

of the board. Place the Bit so that it is positioned over the 

middle of the board. 

Depth the depthing fo t against the piece for pins 

2. Loosen the Drop-pin plate (you might have to relocate the 

Locking Keys to a different pair of holes), and bring the drop-pin 

forward to about the middle of the line of square islands. 

3. Tighten the DropPin Locking Keys. 

Track the board so that the centre line is precisely under the bit. 

Loosen the keys on the Template. 

Even Sockets Drop the Pin and slide the plate so that the pin 

drops onto the middle of the middle Island, or in the alley between 

the two middle Islands. That should now put the run of 

pins/sockets central to the board. 

Now lift the Pin, so you can track the dovetail bit to the left-hand 

edge of the board. Then run to the other end of the board and 

check that the board is indeed central and the same both ends 

with not too big a pin at either end. 

Odd Sockets Drop the Pin and slide the plate so that it goes 

between the islands. 

Depth the Bit 

Zero the bit back onto the board end and use the pin piece to 

gauge the depth of cut. 

Drop the bit, and you are ready to cut the tails. 

Cutting the Tail Sockets 

Do this carefully: because the cut is guided, you can cut from 

both faces of the tail board, front first and then from the back. 

This will ensure that there’s no breakout, specially if you go gently 

and your bit is sharp. The end pins need special treatment as 

you will need to trim the edges before cutting the exact socket 

position. On the left edge go away (clockwise) around the board. 

You have space for this. 

On the right-hand edge come forward. You may need to lift the 

18 

The Dovetail template is held by the Bracket and slides 

under the Guide Rails. The Drop Pin traces the Tail sockets 

by going through between the Islands using a Dovetail 

Bit and then traces the pins by going down the slope 

of the wedges on either side. 

8 does 8,10,12. 

The Bit is place on the central pin. The 

Two Locking Keys of the Template are 

loosed and the Template freed so that 

the Drop Pin can go between the Islands. 

The keys are tightened. That locates the 

Template. 

The Drop Pin goes between the Islands 

to make the tail sockets.

The larger Pins look more crowded on 

the board end, but it is a matter of 

opinion when they look wrong. 

At the smaller end of the scale, the 

pins could look too widely spaced, 

and need a Template with a tighter 

pitch. 

The Bit is placed over the board end and 

the Drop Pin plate loosened and brought 

up to the middle of the Islands. 

The Drawing shows the wood tracked out 

left to show the position of the Pin and 

the Bit and the work in the CamLock, 

and the Template reatiative to the 

Bracket and Fence. 

Pin and cut forward (clockwise again) making a half cut (trim cut) on 

the edge of the board. 

Put the router back and drop the DropPin again before making a full 

cut down the alley between the islands. 

Breakout 

When making sockets, there is little breakout if you trim cut from the 

front and then go round and make the full cut from the back of the 

board. 

If the boards are thin, you can cut them both at once, but it’s probably 

best to do them one at a time, carefully, at first. 

Select the pieces for grain and character and mark out which piece 

goes where – whether Side (long) or End (short). The triangle marking 

method is very useful to keep the boards in order. 

The following is a way of keeping the sockets and the pins 

exactly matched up corner for corner. 

Put the two tail boards together, in the left hand, ready to go in the 

CamLock, with the arrow pointing upward. Somersault the front board. 

Now they have both inside faces facing you. 

Keeping that orientation, lock the back board in the CamLock and cut 

the row of top left sockets. Next the bottom right corner sockets of 

the front board, which is now ‘upside down’ and at the top, because 

you flipped the board. 

Put the boards together (don’t change the orientation) and cartwheel 

the boards together. That is, look at them and wheel them through 

180°. 

Note: The Sides will now match up with the Ends with the pin when 

they are rotated in this way. The pins have to have the thicker part 

always facing the machine, and have to be cart-wheeled between 

cutting one end and the other. 

Now do bottom left corner sockets trim cutting from the front and then 

cutting from the back that is from the outside to the inner face 

19

and then repeat for the top right corner. 

Remember: 

1. Put them together and flip the front board. and cut both 

rows together. 

2. Cartwheel them both together and cut the other two. and 

that’s the Tails done. 

Making the Test Pins 

DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS... 

...before you leave the tails, take a piece of good scrap a little 

wider than the width of two sockets and cam it in place under 

the bit which is brought forward to cutting position (off). Push 

the router away, and squeeze the scrap up a fraction. Cam it 

in again, and switch on. Bring the router forward so that the bit 

cuts a shallow groove in the top of the scrap. Cut the first pin 

position, and then the second making two shallow grooves. 

It gives you both the bottom dimension and positions of the 

first two tails. 

Keep the Test Stick in place and... 

Making the pins 

...change the dovetail bit for a straight bit. The larger the better 

(less break-out), but it must fit easily between the pins, and 

also be right for the Template. We will check that next. 

You now use the wedge shaped Islands on the template, Raise 

the Pin. 

Now track the Bit to the back edge of the test stick on the right 

hand side of the groove so that the left blade is just touching 

the right hand edge of the groove. 

Unlock the Pin Plate (Pin down) and move it up so that the Pin 

comes up against the wedge. Lock the Drop Pin Plate. 

Track the Bit to the other side of the groove and align the right 

hand blade with the left edge of the groove. 

The Pin should come up and hit the wedge on the left just as 

it did on the right-hand side. 

If the Pin runs off the top end of the wedge, when the Bit 

is placed, the bit is too small to hit the wedge so change the 

bit for a larger diameter straight bit and start the test again: 

loosen the drop pin plate and pull the plate forward allowing 

you to place this larger bit on the edge of the groove. Slide 

the pin away till it nudges the wedge.... and tighten the keys 

on the Drop Pin. 

Test the other side and check that the blade comes to the edge 

of the groove. Do this without moving the sliding bar. 

Dry Run 

Before cutting the test stick, check that as you run the Pin 

down the Wedge either side, the bit will run across the groove 

from top right and down at a slope of 1 in 7 to make a pin 

with the base the same size as the groove which is the same 

size as the dovetail bit. Check that it runs over the stick the 

other side also. 

Making the Pins in the Test Stick 

Now cut the test stick proper. 

Zero the cutter onto the scrap and gauge the bit depth using 

the piece with the dovetails cut in it. 

Drop the bit, Track to the left hand edge of the Stick. Switch 

on and make a right-hand cut, from the right side, just kissing 

the corner of the groove sloping down towards the left, The 

first pin will allow a right hand cut only. 

Track to position number 2, and make a right-hand cut and 

then a left-hand cut, from top left side down towards the bottom 

right. Be sure to clean the space between the pins. Don’t 

worry about breakout until later. 

The test stick should fit the first and second sockets on the 

board with the sockets. And the two should line up on the left. 

20 

The dovetail bit cuts two 

grooves to trace the bit 

diameter on the stick at 

first and second socket 

positions 

The bit is at the back 

of the Stick just at the 

edge of the groove. Slide 

the Pin up to the wedge 

till it gently nudges it, 

and tighten the Locking 

Pins on the Drop-pin 

Plate

A right hand cut 

The Bit is placed at 

the edge of the groove, 

with the Pin up 

The Pin Plate is loosened and, 

the Pin moved up to touch the 

wedge. The other side is 

checked in the same way. 

The drop pin plate is tightened. 

This sets the position for making 

the dovetail. 

If it’s too tight, move the Pin Plate towards you, so that it uses a thinner 

part of the wedge. 

If it is too thin, move it up the wedge to thicken the Pin a fraction. Try the 

test on the other end of the stick. 

Making the Run of Pins 

Now try the run of pins for real. It helps to place the board with the tail 

sockets in it, handy, so you can see what you are trying to make. Lay it flat 

on the Channel top with the tails towards you. You are making pins to fit 

these sockets. Note that the first pin is only cut on the right-hand side of 

it, and you will be cutting away the wood and leaving a dovetail pin where 

the space is... 

So, starting on the left of the board: it’s a Right hand cut only, then 

Right – Left, Right – Left, and so on to the last pin 

and the last is only a Left.... 

...unless of course you have a different layout with a tail in the end of the 

run instead of a pin. See asymmetric dovetails. 

There’s a knack to getting it perfect, but it won’t take long if you take it 

gently. This is not your hamfisted dovetail jig; it needs care and finesse! 

When cutting the pins try to put an even, gentle pressure on the Wedge 

with the Drop-Pin as you bring it forwards, and make sure that your plates 

and all sliding surfaces are polished and easy running. 

Try the fit. 

At the end of the run, lift the router and lift the DropPin. If the fit is right, 

you’re ready to go ahead. If not put it back and adjust the fit and trim it 

up. 

Finding the Pathway 

How you make the track through the work is up to you, but it’s worth precutting 

from the front edge, going clockwise in and out of the Wedges, 

down cutting or climb cutting, to cut the front edge. Then there’s no tearout 

when you come to work down the Wedges from the back. You do the 

majority of the cutting from the back so that the dust flies straight into your 

extraction system. 

You will find for yourself the best way of running around the pathways – working 

left to right or right to left. As with tenons, don’t rush it in the beginning... 

you want to make a good job of it first, and become fast and good later. 

You should find that the two pieces – pins and tails – fit hand in glove, 

breakout free and square. 

Asymmetry 

You could want an asymmetrical layout for making drawers with cocked 

beading, or because you just want it asymmetric, or because the size of the 

box is critical but does not fit with the pitch of the template. 

One end pin can be made larger. 

Alternatively the end tail can be made larger. 

Normal WoodRat dovetail techniques easily cope with asymmetry, but here 

we resort to a bit of cunning. 

If you have a bigger pin on one end than on the other, you will have to somersault 

the tail board so that the same edge is cut with the bigger pin. 

But as is always the case, the pin board must be Cart-wheeled, to keep 

its inner face against the machine face, otherwise you will get a zee/zed 

instead of a square box. 

Start by making pins on one pin board with its corresponding tail board. 

Make the opposite corner with the other pin board and its corresponding 

tail board. They will match up. 

But now when you cartwheel each pin board to make pins in the other end, 

you will need to move the template to get the pins in the right positions. 

The size of the bigger pin (the position of the cut) is got from marking out 

the big pin on the end of the pin piece as you would for hand cut dovetails, 

placing the tail board over the end of the pin board. Mark the end pin position 

with a marking knife. 

Place the marked up tail piece with its inner face against the machine face, 

and relocate the template so that the bit will cut down the line of that bigger 

pin. Re-lock the Template. Now you can run the line of pins for the two 

21

emaining corners. 

Box with a Box Lid 

The usual method of cutting off the lid part of a box through a 

large pin is impractical with the Pathfinder. 

You can cut the wood first and make two boxes one for the box 

and the other for the lid, but you must be sure to make each part 

to the same overall dimensions. 

Alternatively, you could make the cut through one of the tails 

between the pins. 

A variation on this is to use the full MB3 MitreBox and Mitre the 

tails so that the lid and box can be fitted together by rebating/ 

rabetting the lid into the box. 

Grooves for Bottoms and Lids 

The RP3 router plate has the usual slot on the left-hand side so 

that it can act as a normal router plate when doing non-pathfinder 

work. 

So, when grooving for the box bottom and lid, simply place one of 

your Starknobs (from the WoodRat/LittleRat kit) in the M8 tapped 

hole in the HalfPlate and screw the plate down where you need it. 

Take out the Cheeks etc. Place the Brush, and feed each piece 

through by hand. 

Remember: feed on the up-cut if widening the groove. 

When feeding small pieces, you’ll need the blue block placed 

in the yellow dust chute to stop the workpiece pushing into the 

cutter gap. 

To make a stopped cut to avoid the groove showing on the outside 

off the joint, set the brush down a little from the bit (for protection), 

and carefully lift the workpiece up into the cutter at the beginning 

of the slot. Feed the workpiece along under the plate cutting the 

groove, and drop it when it reaches the end of the groove before 

it breaks through the joint. 

This takes a little practice, so try it on some scrap first. 

Thicknessing the Bottoms 

Having run the groove you can thickness the box bottom to fit 

the groove by resetting the bit and running the bottom past the 

cutter to rebate it, as for normal Woodrat practice. 

22

Because the pitch is fixed by the Template, you will need to design 

the drawer heights to match the available socket positions on the 

template. If the pitch is unsuitable turn the template and try the 

pitch on the opposite set. The diagram at the end of this section 

will help with the design. 

The Drawer Side is mounted vertical, with its inner face against 

the machine. 

The Drawer Front is horizontal up under the HalfPlate and the 

Template with the inside face up, and the two are cut in one 

pass... first a series of forward cuts to make the sockets without 

tearout, then a pass, down cutting the tails, and then cutting the 

pin pockets between the pins of the Drawer Front. This is all done 

with the same dovetail bit. 

23

A series of oak and sycamore drawers made 

with an early version of the Pathfinder Half-Blind 

Template. 

24 

The D

ove- 

Bracket 

Lobed Washer 

Locking Keys 

Drop Pin 

We have a third and very different Template 

for lapped dovetails, with a different approach 

to its joint. The two workpieces are mounted 

together in the MitreBox and the same dovetail 

bit cuts both of them in one run. It enables 

you to dovetail a reasonable sized drawer in 

under 5 minutes, because there is no need 

to chisel the back corners of the pin pocket 

as in normal WoodRat half-blind dovetails. It 

is very quick. The size of bit is given by the 

thickness of drawer front and is less critical 

than that for through dovetails, as the lap can 

vary. Having two differing pitches on the same 

Template allows a greater choice of dovetail 

Half-Blind or Lapped Dovetails 

25 

M6 Locking keys 


Rod Lock 

Half-blind Dovetail Template 

Locking Lever 

Spreader Rod to be stored 

Set up the MitreBox MB3 with 

both left Cheek screwed to the 

Fence and the Right one held 

with the Rod Clamp 

layout, and each template is designed for a 

specific WoodRat dovetail bit. 

Although intended for drawers, the half-blind 

method also gives you full blind dovetails 

which you can make into secret dovetails by 

mitering them using the Mitrebox, and therefore 

you can make boxes with continuous perfect 

figured grain with no visible joints. 

tail Bit to use You would expect to select the bit to match the thickness of

the drawer front and to allow a nice balance between pin and 

drawer side when it shows as you open the drawer. 

But, each Half-Blind Template works with only one size of 

dovetail bit. Choose bit that corresponds with the Template. 

Interestingly one Template can give a range of results. 

If you have a range of Templates choose the one that is intended 

for the bit you intend to use. 

Set-Up 

Add the second (right-hand) cheek for half-blind dovetails, as 

the drawing above. 

Place a drawer side vertically up under the plate and against 

the machine face. Cam it in, but not tightly. 

The Rod Clamp 

Set up the clamping system on the threaded rod as shown in 

the illustration. 

The Rod Clamp needs to hold the drawer front firmly, up under 

the HalfPlate, in a way that when you loosen the Hand Lever 

by half a turn you can slide out the Front piece and slide in 

26 

The drawer Side is held vertical and the 

Front is horizontal. between the Cheeks of 

the MitreBox. The Template (shown faded) is 

held by the Bracket and goes with the wood. 

The Bit goes with the plate and the Pin 

directs the Bit around the back of the Side 

to form the Tails and then into the Front to 

make the pin pockets. It’s all done with the 

same Bit at the same depth. The spacer is 

not shown 

The Cam Lock holds the two Cheeks apart, 

but is able to squeeze together to lock the Front 

in place. The handle provides a quick release with a half 

One Bit, one template, but three very different results 

show that there’s lots of room for individuality. 

1. A rather heavy 

drawer front 

2. A classic 

design solution 

2. A thin drawer 

front and weak 

looking outer pins

Park Position 

27 

Place the tail vertical 

The Separating Stick spaces the Side 

and the Front a repeatable distance apart. 

The Front is pushed up against the plates 

above and against the stick. 

The Drop Pin is up and off to the right taking the Bit 

up to the Park Position 

Each HB Plate is made for a particular 1in7 dovetail 

bit and has a fixed pitch. But there are two different 

pitches on each plate which gives a wider choice of 

width to match the boards to. 

The half-plate and router plate are not shown. 

the next without snagging, and tighten it so that it does not 

move under pressure from the cutting action, which will be 

pushing into the end-gain. 

So loosen all the inner nuts and washers, and with the hand 

lever with the lever towards you, tighten the Big Lobed Washer 

so that the Drawer Front – lifted up close under the plates – is 

firmly held. Loosen the Hand Lever and slide out the Front. 

Slide it back again and tighten, and make sure that the work 

piece is firm and will not be dislodged when attacked by the 

bit. 

Rubber washer Sandwich 

Tighten the back nut on the Lobed Washer Nut. Then the pair 

of nuts (nut and lock nut) on the rubber washer sandwich, 

squashing it so that when you push the lever away, the rubber 

washers push on the Cheek, releasing the Drawer Front and 

giving room for the next one to be slid into place. 

You’ll need to push upward on the Drawer Front to make good 

contact with the HalfPlate, which will ensure that the Front 

dovetails have the same depth of cut as the Side, which is 

slid up vertically under the Half-plate. 

When all is running nicely we find that it’s best to put the 

Drawer Front in first - horizontal, then the Side - vertical, 

pushing it up under the Plate and Camming it in loosely. Then 

lift the Front and tighten the Hand Lever and then retighten 

the CamLock on the Side. 

Making Classic Drawers 

The Pathfinder allows you to make drawers with all the 

characteristics of a classic, craftsman’s piece – fine 

dovetails, thin drawer sides, sliding drawer bottom, 

etc., but in a fraction of the time. 

1. Preparation of work-pieces 

The better you prepare your work, making the ends of the 

Side and Front square and true, and the inner surfaces flat 

as can be, the better will be the joint. All the three boards

of the drawer (two sides and one front) need to be as far as 

possible the same width. The drawer Back should be made 

at the same time to the same thickness and cut down only 

after it is jointed. 

The Drop-pin is placed in the router plate and anchored with 

the Locking Screws. Loosen the plate to change the position 

of the Pin, forward and back, relative to the Bit. There are three 

pairs of holes for the M6 Locking Keys. 

The Drop-Pin runs around the tail islands and then the pin 

pocket recesses in the Template in the same pass as the Bit 

is cutting the drawer sides, and then the pin pockets, all at 

the same depth. This makes it a simple operation, once it is 

set up. 

You may need to design the drawers to accommodate the 

template to some extent, but each template has two different 

pitches, for the same dovetail size, so it should not be hard to 

find a pitch that’s very close to the height of drawer front you 

need. The full-size diagram of the possible dovetail runs at the 

end of this section should help with the layout. 

2. Getting to work 

Unless you are doing asymmetrical work like for cock beaded 

drawers you can ensure that you make a perfectly symmetrical 

arrangement. Take the centre of the board, and match it with 

either the centre of the run, or exactly between two pins. 

Use the Template and put it the right way round to give you 

pitch A or the larger B as right for your design. 

Place a piece for tails (a Side) with the inner face against the 

face of the WoodRat and the corresponding Drawer Front horizontal, 

up under the plates, with the inner face facing up. 

The CNC-cut, Half-Blind Template allied to exactly machined 

dovetail bits gives a close fit of pin to tail, that is when the 

depth of the bit is just less than the full depth by 0.5mm or 

less. Adjusting the depth gives just enough leeway in the fit, 

provided that you use a WoodRat 1in7 dovetail bit. 

The template gives exact alignment of pins to sockets, so that 

the boards marry up exactly. 

This only leaves the depth of the Side, after it has been cut 

with tails, to the depth of the pin pocket. And this needs careful 

setting, so that there is a minimum of final cleaning up. 

The Half-blind Layout 

Mark the centre line of your board and note whether the pins 

will be odd or even in number, and camlock the board in vertically 

with the inner face against the machine face. 

Fit the Template with its two Locking keys in ready, and slide 

it into the Bracket. Don’t tighten yet. 

Track the board to line up its centre line mark with the Bit (with 

its blades north/south). Then slide the Template to line it up 

under the Drop-Pin, aligning the Template with either the corresponding 

alley (odd number of sockets), or the middle of the 

Island (even number). Tighten the Template Locking keys. 

Track west and east to check that the two ends of the run look 

right, with the Bit covering the two ends equally at both edges 

of the Drawer Side. 

The Layout 

Take extra/spare pieces of Side and Front. Place them in the 

Pathfinder. 

Place the Side vertical, with its inner face against the machine 

face. 

Place the Front (inside up), up under the Half-plate. Hold it 

there with the RodLock. 

Follow this: making sure you can see the bit clearly. 

1. Unlock the router, zero the Bit onto the end of the Drawer 

Side and depth the router to the depth of the bit using the scale 

on your router, and not to the depth of the wood as with through 

dovetails. Set it to the blade length of the Bit, and then unscrew 

the depthing foot a couple of half turns. The depthing is now 

a little less than the blade length. For example depth the 12-6 

bit to 12mm and give it a couple of downward turns. 

28 

A. Even number of sockets: Bit lined up 

on the centre line of the board, and the 

Template moved to position the Pin to 

the middle of the island. 

A 

B. Odd number of sockets: Bit lined 

up on the centre line of the board, and 

the Template moved to position the 

Pin between the islands 

B

Fig 27.1 

2. Bring the Bit forward – the blade depth/length 

divided by 7 (slope number of Bits). Put the Pin 

to the back of the Island and lock down. 

L 

T 

L/7 

End view of the Bit against 

the end of the Drawer Side 

T 

WR-8-7-20-10 

note that when the Bit is dropped to depth, 

the neck will just graze the top back edge of 

the Side board. Which is the same distance T 

that the pencil mark is into the drawer Front. 

The cutter is at the 

line on the top of the 

drawer side. 

1. Drawer Side is used to mark the 

thickness of the Drawer Front on the 

inside face, with knife or sharp pencil. 

Fig 27.2 

Plan view of the Bit against 

the end of the Drawer Side 

The drawer side is held 

by the Cheeks and the 

CamLock 

27.2/3. Track the Board away left, and Plunge the router fully. 

Move the router (Pin up) to line up the flat of the Bit square against 

the board end. The drawing shows the position of the Bit when 

plunged, where the cut at the neck just leaves the full thickness 

of the board on its end. 

Use another piece to measure out the thickness of the Drawer 

Side board onto the inside (upside) face of the Drawer Front, 

and draw a line against the board with a sharp knife or pencil 

(fig 28.1). 

2. Lift the Bit. Track the wood under it and drop the bit onto the 

end of it. Bring the Drop pin to the north face of the island for the 

tails as shown, and lock the Drop-Pin plate to the RouterPlate. 

When you later drop the Bit again on the left of the workpiece, 

it will cut along the back of the islands making the tails, which 

will be the full thickness of the drawer side at their widest, at the 

top of the board. 

4. Lift the Pin, and bring it to the back of one of the Pin 

Pockets. This brings the router Bit forward to the back of the 

pocket cutting position on top of the drawer front but first... 

5. Push the Drawer Front forward so that the point of the bit 

(aligned north/south) lines up with the line on the drawer Side. 

Tighten the RodLock handle. This puts the back of the pocket 

under the bit at its position to cut the back of the pocket. Now 

tighten the CamLock. 

6. Making the Spacer Stick 

This is the best time to make a spacer stick to act as a spacer 

between the Side and End. It sits on the two MB3 Cheeks in front 

of the drawer side, and needs be thin enough to lie beneath the 

sockets as they are being cut yet catch the bottom edge of the 

Drawer Front to act as a Stop. Accurately made, the Stick should 

now slot in between the Side and the Front. It should be about 

8mm thick, longer than the width of the boards and exactly the 

width of the space between the Side and Front. 

7. Release the Drawer Front again and push it forwards firmly 

against the Stick and up under the Half-plate, so that it holds the 

Side in place, making sure all is firm. The Spacer now makes a 

repeatable distance between Side and End. 

29 

The Drop pin is placed 

in the Template at the 

front edge of the socket 

island. 

The drawer front up 

under the template, 

held by the Rod Lock

The cutter is already depthed so drop the bit, and you’re ready 

to go. 

30 

1. The bit lines up 

against the edge 

of the board, and 

t 

t 

t 

t 

t 

2. the work and 

template are moved 

so that the Pin 

can line up against 

the island 

3. the Pin is 

placed against 

the north face 

of the island 

The Drop-Pin is 

brought forward to 

the back of the Pin 

Pocket. Bringing 

the Bit with it. 

5 The Drawer Front 

is pushed forward 

so that the mark 

lines up with the 

front blade of the 

Bit 

6 The Separating 

stick is made to fit 

between the Side 

andn the End to 

make a repeatable 

distance between 

them.

1. Bit cuts sockets from the front. 

Pin goes across the front of the 

Islands and up into each alley. 

4. The Bit now comes forward, 

and runs down the left of the 

first pin and back out. 

Cutting the Tails 

The correct direction of the cut is a matter of opinion (which 

means that no-one has worked out the best way yet). This 

is one way: 

Start by going from the Park position (Bit down) at top right 

with the Pin up. Cut a trim cut for the right-hand end socket, 

then drop the Pin again. 

1. Go up into each socket position to eliminate breakout 

from the front. 

2. Then work back, first giving a trim cut to the first socket 

away towards the back (remember that you always try to run 

clockwise to down/climb cut your work). Then skim, clockwise, 

right, across the back of the board. 

3. and then, up-cutting again, trim each tail carefully with its 

rounded corners, back to the left hand end again and into 

the space between sockets and pins. 

The Pin Pockets 

4. Now travel down into the left hand edge of the first, lefthand 

pocket, into the end grain. 

2. Bit trims the edge and then 

cuts along the back, downcutting 

the inner face of the Side. 

5. It then goes right, down-cutting 

the face to the right, then in again 

and cleans the back of the pocket 

6. Then on to pocket #2, running 

down the right side of the prong, 

and off right again, and so on... 

5. Then go back out and right, across the open side of the 

pocket (down cutting, to avoid breakout), then down the right 

hand edge of the pocket, and again left, across the back of 

the pocket, then back out, clearing any waste, and on to the 

next pocket... 

6. Go down the left hand edge of the next pin, out across 

the open part of the pocket and down the right hand edge, 

across the back of the pocket, and on to the next pin pocket. 

and so on to the finish. 

There are other ways, but we stress again that it is best to 

cut carefully first and fast later. Remember that the neck of 

a dovetail bit has very little cutting edge and simply cannot 

go fast: specially into end-grain. 

The Fit 

Now try the fit. It should be pretty accurate. 

3. Then carefully back forming 

the rounded corners and 

connecting with pre-cut sockets 

You get the exact fit of pin to socket by raising (loosening the 

fit) a fraction, or lowering the Bit (tightening), and trying again. 

Use the fine adjustment on the depthing foot for this. 

Now look at the depth of the Side in the pin pocket. Chances 

are that the depthing will not be quite exact. Decide whether 

29

the Side should be thicker (in other words the side lies too low in 

in the pocket, or too thick in the pocket and stands proud. 

Say it is too thick by 1mm: You could of course plane it off, but 

there’s a better way. 

When you make the next trial, put the whole set-up back together 

ready, with the stick in front of the drawer side, and the drawer 

front pushed in against it. 

Then loosen the Locking keys and pull the Drop-Pin Plate forward 

by half a millimeter measured against the scale on the RouterPlate. 

This will make the Side Tails one half mill thinner and the Pin pocket 

one half mill deeper with a net change of 1 mm. 

Conversely, if the drawer side is too deeply set, the Drop Pin Plate 

needs to be reset away from you by half of the over-depthing, 

because, as the bit moves away from you, it makes the tail at 

the same time thicker, and the pocket shallower. So it is quite a 

subtle adjustment. 

When drawer side, stick and drawer front are cammed in place, 

the whole structure should be solid, square, and ready for work. 

Make sure that the drawer side lies flat against the machine face, 

and that the inside face of the front is flat up under the half-plate. 

Push upward with the fingers of the left hand before tightening 

the Camlock and the Hand Lever. 

Remember, the object is to track the minimum route, leaving nothing 

behind and causing no breakout. It is tempting to go fast, but 

we advise building up speed gradually, when you are sure of your 

method. 

The two pieces should come out from the cheeks and lock together 

exactly, ready for glue. 

Trouble shooting 

Mis-match of boards 

One crucial thing, especially with drawers, is the way the two pieces 

marry up. Planing them up to correct a mismatch tends to make 

the perfectly square drawer front into a parallelogram shape, which 

does not properly fit the drawer opening. This should not happen 

as you benefit from CNC cut Templates and they should be perfect, 

but they will not fit exactly if the boards are of different width. 

Slipping workpieces 

WoodRat do not sandpaper the faces; we leave this job to you. 

When applying sandpaper, use a synthetic rubber cement like 

Copydex or the US equivalent which is easy to remove and replace 

when needed. 

The Pathfinder is very much “work in progress”. These three Templates 

demonstrate what is possible. What we actually make as the 

next generation of Templates will depend on demand from you.... 

Let us know what you think. 

32 

1mm oversize 

If the Side stands proud of the Front by 

1mm, move the Pin Plate forward by 0.5mm to 

decrease the depth of the tail and at the same 

time increase the depth of the pocket

Chart of Tails Layout for the 12-6 Bit 

2A 12-6 at 24 2B 12-6 at 26 

This is a full sized drawing of the half-blind template 2 and the resulting 

drawer layout. The blue lines represent the layout for when the pitch is 

24mm -2A and the red lines show the different layouts for the 26mm 

pitch.- 2B. You can make some drawers with layout A and some with B as 

it suits the plan. Start measuring from the bottom line. 

layout for a cock-beaded 

drawer using the 24mm 

pitch HB Template. 

33

Using the MitreBox 

The full MitreBox will allow you to cut accurate 45° angles across the ends of the four pieces 

of a box, as well as hold work at any required angle. 

Mark out the work with a sharp pencil or knife. Arrange the Box 

with the two Cheeks held apart with the Rod Clamp and the 

Spreader Rod so that the workpiece can slide between them. 

Use a 45° set square to check the angle, and then tighten the 

CamClamp to hold the work square and firm. 

Like this, a variety of mitred joints can be cut, but for Secret 

Dovetails we need to mitre the Set up the MB3 as for Half- 

Blind dovetails. You will need a 45° bevel or, better, a 

45° triangle set square. 

Place the work inside up, with the 45° set to make the angle 

between workpiece and the underside of the plates. 

The HB Template you use will determine the bit needed, 

as each Half-blind Template is designed to work with its 

own WoodRat bit. 

Using that dovetail bit, cut the mitres at each edge, and along 

the back edge. Repeat for each of the other seven board 

ends. 

Next put each Side piece in vertically and reduce the board 

end as shown (fig 32.2). Measure the dovetail bit’s blade length 

(less a 0.5mm) up from the 45° line. 

Cutting away this part will allow the Bit to cut to full depth down 

to the 45° line when making tail sockets. 

The Gauging Piece 

See from figure 33 that the Side and End will be cut with the 

same cutter but at two different set depths: the Side with the 

bit depthed to the full board thickness, but for the Ends the Bit 

is depthed to the bit blade depth (less a fraction). 

It’s worth making a gauging piece that is the difference between 

the board width and the cutter blade length. It will give 

you the exact gauge between cutting the tails (without the 

WR-8-7-20-10 

34 

The 45° line determines the 

depth of the Bit for cutting 

tail sockets. Cut away the top 

of the board. Make the gauging 

piece to be the thickness 

of this cut away part. 

The 45° line projected 

from the corner and 

taken across the face 

of the board 

(fig. 32.2) 

gauging piece

1. The Bit is 

depthed to the 

thickness of the 

workpiece 

2. The neck of the bit is 

aligned with the corner of the 

joint, and the Pin is dropped 

on the north face of an 

island. aa 

3. The Pin is brought forward 

to the back of the pocket, 

and the Bit dropped gently 

onto the workpiece. The work 

is slid under the Bit, aligning 

the point of the blade with 

the line at 45° 

T 

6.Depth the Bit to the full thickness of 

the workpiece. Cut the tail sockets, and 

round the corners, Cut from behind,, and 

stop the cut 

35 

4. The Bit is dropped to depth 

(the length of the blade). The gap 

between the boards needs a 

separating stick. 

5. The thickness of the gauging 

piece is as between the bit and 

the underside of the work It 

gauges the raising of the Router 

between making the Tails and 

making the Pin pockets.

gauge) and the pin pockets (with the gauge) later. 

The same rule applies for secret dovetails as for through 

dovetails: The Ends (the shorter boards) take the pins 

or in this case the pin pockets, and the Sides take the 

tail sockets. 

Note that the fit of the tail to pin will be determined by the accuracy 

of this gauge because it determines the depth of the 

pin pocket. The thinner the gauge, the deeper the pins, and 

the tighter will be the fit. 

And vice versa. 

Placing the tail sockets and pins 

The set-up for cutting mitred dovetails is basically the same as 

for half-blind dovetails, but there are differences: 

Find the two pieces that make a corner from the arrow marks 

in the usual way. 

Place the Tail Piece vertical, with its inside face against the 

machine face, and the End with its inside face, facing up, 

under the plates, and with a gap between the vertical and the 

horizontal boards. 

Find the centre line of the work-piece board. Align that centre 

with the Template so that at least two pockets lie comfortably 

within the width of the work-piece, and there is enough mitred 

edge for whatever purpose (rebating and/or moulding) as the 

design needs. Zero the bit carefully onto the top surface of 

the End, and depth the router to the boards’ thickness (all the 

boards should have the same thickness). 

Track the work away from the Bit to the left. Turn the blades 

north/south, and pull the router gently forward and track the 

wood back right so that the wood just touches the face of the 

bit blade. Now position the blade so that its edge just intersects 

the top inner face of the socket block. This is shown in 

the diagram figure 33 Step 2. 

Loosen the Drop Pin plate, drop the pin and bring it against the 

north face of one of the islands, (track the wood and template 

to the left if necessary to do so) and tighten the Locking 

Keys. 

Raise the Bit. 

Raise the Drop Pin, and bring the router forward, drop the 

Pin into the pin pocket, and register it at the back of the pin 

pocket. Slide the box End forward under the blade of the bit 

so that the line drawn when you marked out the 45° on the 

boards lies at the tip of the bit. Push the End up firmly dunder 

the plates and lock the boards in place. Everything is now ready 

to run, but take the measurement between the two boards for 

the spacer stick before you disturb the set up. 

Cutting the Tail Sockets 

Run the Tails sockets with the Bit depthed without the gauging 

block, but depthed using the work-piece. Run the row of tails 

as you would do the H-B’s but contained within the mitred 

edges, and without cutting the front of the board of course. 

Stop the cut as you pull forward from the back face until the 

Bit hits the rising plane of the mitre. It will not be able to cut 

through to the front face in any case. Cut along the back edge 

to undercut 

Cutting the Pin Pockets 

For the Pins, raise the router (don’t alter the depthing foot) and 

drop it again gently onto the gauging piece. Run around the 

pins and cut out the pockets. The Drop-pin will run along the 

tines of the template pockets. This might mean that the pins 

themselves could be a little too long. 

It is possible to customise the length of the tines, but this 

might not be good for half-blind dovetails done later with the 

same template. 

If the mitered surfaces don’t come together it could be that the 

pins are too long. A simple solution is to raise the Pin and cut 

across the front end of the pins to shorten them. 

The two boards should fit together nicely. If it’s a loose fit as 

you put them together, you can drop the bit a small amount 

36

to tighten the fit for the next corner. Do this by removing a 

small amount from the gauging piece to deepen the cut. Do 

not alter the depthing foot. This is still set to the thickness of 

the boards. 

Do not forget to use the gauging piece for the Pin Pockets and 

to remove it for the Tail Sockets in each of the four corners, 

and be careful to use your arrow marks to get the right pieces 

to the right corners. 

As you put the boards together you will see that the pattern of 

grain will run continuously around the ring. 

37

Published in England by WoodRat Publications 

Printed by Paper Tiger Press 

©˙Martin Godfrey January 2010 

Godney BA5 1RY UK 

38

Pathfinder instructions - The WoodRat

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