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Southern planter - The W&M Digital Archive

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1908.] THE SOUTHERN PLANTER.<br />

TWO MENSAHIBS (LADIES) IN<br />

INDIA.<br />

"Traveller."<br />

It was after a great deal of thought<br />

and the persuasion of friends who had<br />

been there before us that my friend<br />

and I decided to venture on travelling<br />

through India. At first, it seemed to<br />

us too far from home and too hazardous,<br />

but we finally came to the conclusion<br />

that n professional traveller<br />

could miss seeing India, and so we<br />

sailed away from Hong Kong for that<br />

destination. <strong>The</strong> voyage of eleven<br />

days over the tropical sea to Ceylon<br />

was a dream of loveliness, with cloudless<br />

skies, and the water as calm as<br />

a lake. At night the <strong>Southern</strong> Cross<br />

blazed forth above us and our life on<br />

ship board was as gay as Paris in the<br />

season. ,<br />

We awakened from this dream to<br />

find ourselves one morning on the<br />

beach at Tuticorim, <strong>Southern</strong> India,<br />

surrounded by an army of lightly-claa<br />

coolies, and, in the hands of a solemn<br />

looking Hindu, our travelling servant,<br />

whom we called Sam, because we<br />

could not pronounce his real name.<br />

<strong>The</strong> tram was waiting to bear us<br />

Northward and Sam got our traps<br />

together, rather humiliated that we<br />

had so little, for the native Indian<br />

judges the worth of his patron by the<br />

amount of visible impedimenta he carries.<br />

Travel in India is very hard. <strong>The</strong><br />

heat and dust are almost unendurable,<br />

even in January, the so-called cold<br />

season. <strong>The</strong> distances are enormous,<br />

and the trains arrive and depart at<br />

the most unearthly hours. <strong>The</strong>re are<br />

compartments reserved for ladies,<br />

with dressing room and servant's<br />

room attached. We got our meals at<br />

railway refreshment houses by wiring<br />

ahead for them. We often stopped at<br />

stations in the midst of the desert<br />

and found there the comforts of civilization—including<br />

ice.<br />

<strong>The</strong> country we first traversed was<br />

a favored portion of the Empire, with<br />

sufficient rainfall to produce abund<br />

antly. <strong>The</strong>re were broad fields of<br />

cotton, grain cane and rice. <strong>The</strong> landscape<br />

was pleasing. <strong>The</strong> tram followed<br />

the highway, which was shaded<br />

by a double avenue of trees, alonj,<br />

which heavily laden camels and bullock<br />

carts plied to market. From the<br />

plain there arose many a fortressed<br />

crag, surrounded by jungles in which<br />

lurked the tiger, while around us<br />

were herds of camels, buffalo and<br />

spotted deer, troops of monkeys and<br />

brilliant tropical birds.<br />

We passed through many villages of<br />

mud huts where the people swarmed<br />

about the station, some selling, some<br />

begging, others idling, every Pagan of<br />

them a picture in his graceful draperies.<br />

Red is the predominant note in<br />

India. It seems to suit best under<br />

those burning skies, and as the reds<br />

swayed and blended in thecrowd it<br />

was gorgeous to look upon.<br />

We broke our journey by stopping<br />

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