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36 3 Hol Ho Holland lan land la dH d dHera d Herald H era er erald er e ld FAST FAS FA FAS FAST FAS ST Gastronomy “People get to taste the work of a Michelin-starred chef for a handful of euros”
on the go FAST FOOD FRANCE Some of the world’s best chefs are starting to produce convenience food, and the French are leading the way LEFT: Chef Sylvain Girot preparing a burger at Ouest Express in Lyon ABOVE: A Michel Bras takeaway smoked trout capucin. The salmon-like colour comes from the smoking process The motorway service station at the Millau Viaduct is quite unlike any other on earth. First, there is the view over architect Norman Foster’s spectacular bridge. This magnifi cent construction seems to fl oat in mid-air, hanging from elegant cables that appear to disappear into the clouds. Then there is the service station itself, which may offer the best sliproad snacking anywhere in the world. The food is the creation of Michel Bras, a Frenchman who has a restaurant in the town of Laguiole in southern France that was voted the seventh-best in the world in 2008. His efforts at the Millau Viaduct have almost entirely revamped the concept of motorway service food. Out go the grisly burgers and wilting chicken salads. In come cones of crêpe-like capucin batter fi lled with local foie gras and mushrooms, or with Laguiole cheese and apricot chutney, or smoked trout with lettuce or slithers of lamb and bulgur wheat. The drinks are also a local affair. From Aveyron lemonade to local grape juice, Coke and Pepsi are yet to break through. And it all works because people get to taste the work of a Michelin-starred creator for a handful of euros. This is slow food done quickly. But Bras is not alone. Other renowned French names have joined the fast food revolution, such as one- Michelin star chef Jean-Luc Rabanel. In 2009, he opened a sandwich shop in Arles called PÂN, with the plan of “revamping the traditional ham sandwich.” And how would he do this? “It’s a question of using your skill to prepare the kind of food you would normally serve on a plate – but serving it between two slices of bread instead,” he explains. This philosophy permeates the whole movement. It’s about taking the traditional rules of haute cuisine, like cooking to order, using seasonal ingredients and setting a menu according to what is freshest at that morning’s market, and applying them to more convenient forms of food. And if you’re ever passing by Arles, the confi t-of-foie-gras-with-Espelettechilli-pepper-accompanied-bycaramelised-Balsamic-vinegar-andcandied-orange sandwich is really rather good. As this is haute cuisine, style is as important as substance. At Miyou, a fast food joint at Paris Charles de Gaulle Airport launched by Guy Martin (two Michelin stars), sandwiches come in trendy, black-studded, transparent zipped packets, and the venue itself – all oak, ebony, glass and stone fi ttings – looks perfectly at home between Cartier and Dior. “It’s what’s known as life’s little everyday luxuries,” says Anne-Claire Paré, an expert in catering industry trends. “We live in an age of the FAST Holland Herald 37 Words: Emmanuelle Jary/Inner France. Photography: Jean-François Mallet/Inner France
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march-2010

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