TRAVEL BALI Pandit Nehru, India’s fi rst prime minister, once described Bali as “the morning of the world”. If so, it’s probably a Sunday morning. This is a place where, from the moment you arrive at the relative mayhem of the airport, every step is a slow decent into serendipity. The fi rst hint comes on the air, which appears to have been naturally perfumed. It’s a coming together of frangipani, coconut and lilies with the sweetly scented, local clove-fl avoured cigarettes. It’s like something conjured for its calming effects in the corner of a fi ve-star spa, and it starts to work on the senses immediately. This is the beginning of an unwinding process that could leave you perfectly horizontal by the time you get to the island’s interior. That unwinding may not be immediately obvious outside Ngurah Rai Airport, however. Here a familiar refrain rings out: “Transport? Trrrransssport!” As taxi drivers tout for trade, their call tends to begin as a quizzical inquiry, and often ends as a statement of fact. Choosing a taxi may be the most stressful decision you make on an island where the air is designed to relax, and the scenery is the kind of paradise vision that immediately moves you to melancholy. From the airport, some head straight to the serenity of the north, while others fi rst indulge in the surf-and-sand hedonism of the south (and then fi nd it hard to leave). Bali’s southern resort area is based around a broad, long, curving beach that stretches from renowned surfer’s paradise 50 Holland Herald FAST Bali life moves at a gentle pace Kuta to Canggu a few kilometres up the coast. In the centre of this enviable slab of sand is Seminyak – a busy, Ibiza-style party spot – and a maze of small roads lined with funky boutiques, stylish restaurants, tiny eateries, spas and salons, tattoo shops and decadent clubs. One of the most renowned (alongside Double 6, De Ja Vu and Bacio) is Ku De Ta, where the grandiose summer parties lure the planet’s clubbing elite. There, the music plays until the fi rst rays of sunlight hit the early morning joggers running along the beach. This may not immediately seem conducive to tranquillity and convalescence, but the long nights ensure that the days here are languidly spent loafi ng in the sun, as a procession of hair braiders, manicurists, masseurs and fruit vendors pass by. It ensures that a day on the beach isn’t entirely without achievement. And for those keen on more energetic persuits, the beach is lined with board rental outlets, and the surf is among the best in the world. It’s gentle enough for beginners, but has stretches that are long enough, and big enough for those keen on being a bit more extreme. And those who prefer to luxuriate in a bit more seclusion have the chance to opt for spots like The Villa des Indes, an idyllic, post-colonial construction that is hidden away in luscious tropical gardens a few minutes from the main beach. It’s full of beautifully preserved teak planter’s chairs on cosy
“The gods are a demanding audience, and it seems there is a ceremony for something every day” TRAVEL BALI CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT: Ceremonies are routine on the island; dancers enact Hindu epic The Mahabaratha; tiny sea temple Pura Tanah Lot FAST Holland Herald 51