FAST FOOD “It is a revolution in French cooking, the likes of which hasn’t been seen since nouvelle cuisine” cult of hedonism and food is a central part of this pleasure. It’s a trend that has been appearing in all the big cities.” But perhaps the key to the growth of what is becoming known as ‘fast dining’ is the fact that speed and convenience are not being surrendered for the rise in quality. The Millau Viaduct roadside diner currently only offers a take-away service, but there are plans to set up tables outside so that customers can enjoy a proper break. This is also the idea at Ouest Express in Lyon, a new outlet from the octogenarian master of modern French cooking Paul Bocuse, a man famed for pioneering nouvelle cuisine and earning three Michelin stars at his restaurant L’Auberge Du Pont De 38 Holland Herald FAST LEFT: Roadside service with a difference at the Millau Viaduct BELOW: Guy Martin’s restaurant, Miyou, along with one of his popular take-away salads Collonges. Ouest Express is something very different, however, and is possibly the most successful high-end fast food restaurant in the country. Opened in January 2008, its success lies in the marriage of two very different worlds, bringing the effi ciency of a fast food chain into the fl air of a high-end kitchen. The cooking is done by a proper chef with a proper chef’s hat (the chef in question being Sylvain Girot, once of Bocuse’s Brasserie Le Nord) and a whole brigade of sous-chefs who lovingly cook his dishes to order. Morning means croissants and freshly squeezed juices, while dinner brings daily specials (including beef bourguignon, tajine and veal provençal) salads, quiches and homemade desserts. Accused of trying to “do a McDonald’s”, the chef irreverently delights in putting a Charolais beefburger on the menu or Burger Rossini (fi let mignon with foie gras and truffl es) at Christmas. But those familiar with the golden arches will also recognise some elements of the McDonald’s set-up, as at every till the menu is available on a tray to eat in, or in a bag to take out. Consequently, 600 meals are sold per day – mainly to business people at lunchtime, and families or 25 to 40 year-olds in the evening and at weekends. The enterprise has been an unprecedented success, and a second restaurant opened in Lyon in October last year. This trend – traditional chefs modifying their methods to use American fast food models – heralds a revolution in French cooking the likes of which has not been seen since nouvelle cuisine burst on to the international culinary stage. And it’s a change that was driven in part at least by the assault by fast food culture on the traditional French way of life. Claude Fischler, who has spent years studying eating habits for the French Centre for Scientifi c Research, explains. “In southern Europe, one’s everyday social life is punctuated at regular intervals by meals,” he explains. “In the English-speaking world, people eat while they work, while they drive. They eat on their feet.” Perhaps now the two can be combined. As Miyou’s Guy Martin says, “We offer customers with little time or money to spend, the chance to really savour and enjoy their food.” Certainly, those who have ever endured eating a cardboard-textured burger in a grey service station car park will hope it catches on. And fast.
Safari in Africa? Jambo Safari Club, endless possibilities for the most enchanting safari’s See www.jambo.nl for our programme or to order our Dutch catalogue. Phone: +31(0)20 2012740 | e-mail: js@jambo.nl The Netherlands Tailormade safari’s, to suit your safari needs KENYA • TANZANIA • UGANDA • ETHIOPIA • SEYCHELLES • MAURITIUS • MADAGASCAR • MOZAMBIQUE • ZAMBIA • MALAWI • BOTSWANA • NAMIBIA • SOUTH-AFRICA • The Africa Specialist