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the_taliban_shuffle_-_kim_barker

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heroin. While in power, <strong>the</strong> Taliban regime had briey banned farmers<br />

from growing poppies—largely to win international recognition, ra<strong>the</strong>r<br />

than for religious reasons. But in <strong>the</strong> years since <strong>the</strong> Taliban ed,<br />

poppies had returned to much of Helmand, because even though <strong>the</strong><br />

government had banned <strong>the</strong> plant, it had not enforced that ban, and<br />

many inuential Afghans here proted from <strong>the</strong> trade. Afghanistan now<br />

produced more heroin and opium than anywhere else in <strong>the</strong> world, and<br />

Helmand was <strong>the</strong> epicenter. Consequently, Helmand was one of <strong>the</strong><br />

prettiest provinces in Afghanistan. During <strong>the</strong> spring, elds were<br />

splashes of brilliant red, orange, and purple.<br />

Nei<strong>the</strong>r NATO nor <strong>the</strong> United States seemed quite sure how to tackle<br />

<strong>the</strong> drug trade. Allow <strong>the</strong> opium and heroin to ow, and watch <strong>the</strong><br />

region sink fur<strong>the</strong>r into lawlessness. Crack down on <strong>the</strong> opium farmers,<br />

and risk driving <strong>the</strong>m into <strong>the</strong> arms of <strong>the</strong> Taliban, now protecting and<br />

encouraging <strong>the</strong> trade.<br />

Until now, few of <strong>the</strong> international forces had spent much time in<br />

Helmand—<strong>the</strong>re were simply not enough troops in <strong>the</strong> country to<br />

adequately cover <strong>the</strong> south. The major exception was <strong>the</strong> U.S.-led<br />

antiterrorist squad, mostly composed of U.S. special operations forces—<br />

<strong>the</strong> men with beards from elite parts of <strong>the</strong> military whom we were<br />

never supposed to refer to nor talk to while on embeds—and <strong>the</strong> men<br />

with beards from government agencies referred to as “o<strong>the</strong>r government<br />

agencies,” a term that typically included <strong>the</strong> CIA and o<strong>the</strong>r spook-like<br />

groups. These men had been operating in Helmand since <strong>the</strong> beginning<br />

of <strong>the</strong> war, hunting Al-Qaeda and o<strong>the</strong>r top terrorists, or so we were<br />

told.<br />

As part of Operation Mountain Thrust, <strong>the</strong> regular U.S. Army was<br />

now moving into Helmand to try to secure key parts before ocially<br />

handing over <strong>the</strong> province to <strong>the</strong> British. The army had just opened up<br />

new outposts, <strong>the</strong> major one about three miles from a town called<br />

Musa Qala, a stronghold of insurgents, poppy farmers, and drug<br />

traffickers.<br />

I had managed to get an embed in Musa Qala, despite what<br />

happened with Crowley <strong>the</strong> summer before. Somehow I had avoided<br />

any blacklist. And supposedly I was lucky. Many journalists considered<br />

this to be <strong>the</strong> best embed possible. But I wasn’t thrilled. It sounded

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