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spontaneous outpouring of grief, not necessarily for <strong>the</strong> leader she was<br />

but for <strong>the</strong> leader she aspired to be.<br />

A hole had been cut in <strong>the</strong> white marble oor next to Bhutto’s<br />

fa<strong>the</strong>r’s grave. The ambulance backed inside <strong>the</strong> shrine, and supporters<br />

threw rose petals as her con, simple and wooden, was pulled out.<br />

Bhutto’s husband and son, who had own to Pakistan after she was<br />

killed, helped lower her into <strong>the</strong> ground. They threw handfuls of sandy<br />

soil on top, helped by supporters. Slowly <strong>the</strong> con and Benazir Bhutto<br />

disappeared from view. She was gone. The country burned.<br />

We eventually hitched a ride to <strong>the</strong> hotel where <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r foreign<br />

journalists were staying—<strong>the</strong> chartered plane had made it to <strong>the</strong> nearest<br />

airport in time for <strong>the</strong> funeral, but <strong>the</strong> journalists had not been able to<br />

nd a ride. The sold-out hotel was <strong>the</strong> only one not set on re <strong>the</strong><br />

previous night. It was decrepit. The pool was lled with trash and dead<br />

leaves—a BBC correspondent, talking on her phone while walking with<br />

her computer, accidentally fell in. A friend from <strong>the</strong> Washington Post<br />

loaned me his computer cord and a phone charger, and said we could<br />

stay in his room. His kindness was rewarded. When he went to <strong>the</strong><br />

bathroom, someone ushed <strong>the</strong> toilet in <strong>the</strong> room above, which leaked<br />

on him below.<br />

About 4 AM, after nishing my third story of <strong>the</strong> night, I shoved <strong>the</strong><br />

Guardian reporter to one side of a mattress on <strong>the</strong> oor and laid down<br />

on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side, wearing <strong>the</strong> same clo<strong>the</strong>s I had been wearing for<br />

more than two days. I passed out for four hours. That morning, <strong>the</strong> Post<br />

reporter and I decided to flee.<br />

“This is <strong>the</strong> worst place on earth,” he said.<br />

“I’m never coming back here again,” I agreed.<br />

We hitched a ride to Karachi, avoiding roadblocks of burning tires<br />

and cars and slogan-shouting men. Broken glass carpeted parts of <strong>the</strong><br />

road. Trucks at gas stations were set on re; so were some gas stations.<br />

Black plumes of smoke and <strong>the</strong> wreckage of grief could be seen<br />

everywhere—a torched building at a district court complex, a dozen<br />

blackened trucks near a gas station, a gas tanker, and a truck once lled<br />

with sand, still flickering with flames.<br />

We waved a ag from Bhutto’s party out <strong>the</strong> car window, our visa on

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