the_taliban_shuffle_-_kim_barker
the_taliban_shuffle_-_kim_barker
the_taliban_shuffle_-_kim_barker
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spontaneous outpouring of grief, not necessarily for <strong>the</strong> leader she was<br />
but for <strong>the</strong> leader she aspired to be.<br />
A hole had been cut in <strong>the</strong> white marble oor next to Bhutto’s<br />
fa<strong>the</strong>r’s grave. The ambulance backed inside <strong>the</strong> shrine, and supporters<br />
threw rose petals as her con, simple and wooden, was pulled out.<br />
Bhutto’s husband and son, who had own to Pakistan after she was<br />
killed, helped lower her into <strong>the</strong> ground. They threw handfuls of sandy<br />
soil on top, helped by supporters. Slowly <strong>the</strong> con and Benazir Bhutto<br />
disappeared from view. She was gone. The country burned.<br />
We eventually hitched a ride to <strong>the</strong> hotel where <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r foreign<br />
journalists were staying—<strong>the</strong> chartered plane had made it to <strong>the</strong> nearest<br />
airport in time for <strong>the</strong> funeral, but <strong>the</strong> journalists had not been able to<br />
nd a ride. The sold-out hotel was <strong>the</strong> only one not set on re <strong>the</strong><br />
previous night. It was decrepit. The pool was lled with trash and dead<br />
leaves—a BBC correspondent, talking on her phone while walking with<br />
her computer, accidentally fell in. A friend from <strong>the</strong> Washington Post<br />
loaned me his computer cord and a phone charger, and said we could<br />
stay in his room. His kindness was rewarded. When he went to <strong>the</strong><br />
bathroom, someone ushed <strong>the</strong> toilet in <strong>the</strong> room above, which leaked<br />
on him below.<br />
About 4 AM, after nishing my third story of <strong>the</strong> night, I shoved <strong>the</strong><br />
Guardian reporter to one side of a mattress on <strong>the</strong> oor and laid down<br />
on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r side, wearing <strong>the</strong> same clo<strong>the</strong>s I had been wearing for<br />
more than two days. I passed out for four hours. That morning, <strong>the</strong> Post<br />
reporter and I decided to flee.<br />
“This is <strong>the</strong> worst place on earth,” he said.<br />
“I’m never coming back here again,” I agreed.<br />
We hitched a ride to Karachi, avoiding roadblocks of burning tires<br />
and cars and slogan-shouting men. Broken glass carpeted parts of <strong>the</strong><br />
road. Trucks at gas stations were set on re; so were some gas stations.<br />
Black plumes of smoke and <strong>the</strong> wreckage of grief could be seen<br />
everywhere—a torched building at a district court complex, a dozen<br />
blackened trucks near a gas station, a gas tanker, and a truck once lled<br />
with sand, still flickering with flames.<br />
We waved a ag from Bhutto’s party out <strong>the</strong> car window, our visa on