27-06-2008

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32 ATHENSPLUS • FRIDAY, JUNE 27, 2008 GASTRONOMY Eggplant – the ‘crazy apple’ Mediterraneans are mad about Since the Arabs introduced it in the Middle Ages Greeks have embraced the aubergine BY ALEXANDROS YIOTIS The modern Greek name for the aubergine – melitzana – derives from the Italian melanzana, itself a derivative of the original “mela insana” or “crazy apple” because when first introduced to Europe by Arabs in the early Middle Ages it was said to cause fever and epilepsy. It is true that it is slightly toxic when raw but it is safe to eat and delicious when cooked. Solanum melongena var. esculentum did not evolve naturally but, like Healthy food Lightly cooked, eggplant is said to keep cholestorol levels down, so salt and strain it first to stop it absorbing too much oil corn, was developed by man. The peoples of Asia and the Mediterranean have developed impressive ways to cook it that appear to be cross-cultural. Moussakas is not much different from the Turkish musakka, nor melitzanosalata from the Arabic baba ganoush. It is said to help keep cholesterol levels under control – not in its deep-fried version, of course. The globally popular imam baildi reputedly got its name from the imam who swooned in ecstasy when his wife served him the oil-heavy dish. It is also said to be a diuretic and beneficial to the intestines, liver and stomach. The most widely known varieties in Greece are the small, white Santorini aubergine, the long, light violet Tsakoniki from the Peloponnese, which is sweeter and was recently granted the status of “appellation of origin,” the long dark-colored Langada, the more well-known “flaska” and the green flaska from the island of Tinos. Harvesting begins in May and continues i n t o June and July, though some varieties are picked even later, into the early winter months, although these tend to be smaller and used in pickles or sweets. Sensitive fruit Eggplant is usually salted and strained before cooking to ensure that the slices absorb less oil. Be careful not to bruise them and keep them out of the refrigerator – aubergines are sensitive. They should be consumed as fresh as possible but slices (peeled or not) can be frozen and then thawed by dropping them into salted water with a little lemon juice for around three to four minutes. Star turn in the central vegetable market An Athens greengrocer with a difference – the biggest and best variety of produce BY MARIA HAPSOULA Among the stands selling nuts and dried fruits in Athens’s central Varvakeios Market is a greengrocer’s with a range of fruit and vegetables that local supermarkets often never think of stocking – wild greens, such as nettles (in season) and Attica’s almyrikia, tomatoes from Ierapetra, Crete, and barbounia beans from Kalamata. Constantinos Tsoupakis, his wife and son and their staff of four are there from the early morning. “We have been here for about 35 years. My grandfather started the business and my father handed it down to me. It’s an 18-19-hour day from dawn in the vegetable market and then here all day. I’m not complaining, though. It has raised my four children, with a few euros to spare,” Tsoupakis said proudly. He buys through middlemen, which makes it harder to choose products personally, but his years of experience help and as does a choice of regular sources accord- A bright display of Greece’s best in fruit and veg. [Mariliza Anastasopoulou] ing to the season. All the produce is clean and clearly displayed – no mean feat as the stands are set up every day from scratch. Tsoupakis supplies major restaurants and cafes and even some private customers in Athens, so he is a stickler for consistent quality. “Our prices are slightly higher than some of my other colleagues but we believe that quality is an important factor because we would suffer more from a mistake than smaller suppliers and we can’t risk losing a customer,” he explained. What makes Tsoupakis’s store different, however, is his manner. “We don’t cheat customers. In any case, we can’t compete with supermarkets with regard to parking and other such facilities. What we sell is quality and dependability, because we don’t depend on profit percentages but on consumption.” Constantinos Tsoupakis, 10 Armodiou, Varvakeios Market, tel 210.322.5154. RECIPES Baked Tsakoniki eggplant [Errikos Milioris] Ingredients (for 4 people) I kg Tsakoniki eggplant 0.5 kg ripe, chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp finely chopped basil 6 cloves finely chopped garlic 250 gr Feta cheese Salt and pepper Double-baked breadcrumbs (optional) Pre-heat the oven to 180C. Cut the eggplant (aubergines) into slices lengthwise, and, after salting and straining, lightly brown them in olive oil and lay them in a baking dish. Mix the tomatoes, basil and garlic and spread the mixture over the eggplant slices. Pour a little oil over the mix and season, adding a few breadcrumbs if desired. Sprinkle with grated feta and bake for about 45 minutes. Accompany this dish with a white wine such as a Santorini Asyrtiko. Aubergine croquettes [Errikos Milioris] Ingredients (for 4 people) 2 large flaska aubergines 2 eggs 0.5 kg grated kefalotiri I tsp baking soda 1.5 cups of breadcrumbs A little salt Pepper 1 onion Double-baked breadcrumbs for frying Peel and wash the aubergines and chop into large cubes. After salting and straining, drop into boiling water. When they come to the boil, drain well and then mash in a wooden pestle or food processor. Knead all the ingredients together well and shape into balls; roll the balls in the double-baked breadcrumbs and fry until golden. This dish goes well with a fresh tomato sauce with hot pepper or even a spicy sauce made of Florina capsicums. It goes well with a light, aromatic Macedonian retsina, or a rose with high acidity in order to balance the oiliness.
BY MYRSINI LAMBRAKI The cuisine of Kos is the result of a long history of varied influences still evident in the dozens of tavernas and restaurants, particularly those scattered among the leeward ports on the southern side of this Dodecanese island, many of which serve excellent food. The cooking is based on simple techniques and original combinations that make the best of the island’s products. What strikes the visitor most is the variety of local pasta products with names like angelomachi or skordomakarounes, klostres makarounes, pasha makarouna, loukoum pilafi, maidakia and the more usual kritharaki (barley-shaped pasta). The dough is made solely from water, barley or wheat flour and salt. Today one of the most popular dishes, found everywhere, is a “pilaf” made from pligouri (crushed grain) with chickpeas and small pieces of pork, and another made from fried kritharaki and butter. The pine-clad hillsides, small river estuaries, fields and even the sandy coasts of the island are home to some of the most interesting flora and a rare variety of wild greens and mushrooms. Most of these are widely used in the local cuisine, whether raw in salads, boiled, browned, in pies or in imaginative combinations with grains (“thalassites” soup with pligouri) and meat (“thalassites” with pork). Of the endless array of dishes based on vegetables and pulses, special mention must be made of a very sim- Entry Fish This seafood restaurant features a wide variety of dishes. The menu reassures customers the olive oil is organic. Recommended are the shellfish platter, sea bass marinated in mustard and vinegar, fried Symi shrimp and monkfish with spinach and baby tomatoes. Desserts include lemon mousse and loukoumades with ice cream. • 52 Skoufa, tel 210.361.7666. Prices: 45-55 euros per person. ple version of moussakas – without the bechamel sauce, which is a French influence – and the fluffy chickpea or eggplant croquettes. The island’s unique variety of tomato, grown everywhere, is an island trademark but has been overshadowed by the regular variety grown commercially. Small, with a thick skin and oval shape, it is both sweet and acidic with a strong aroma and meaty flesh. Most of the island’s housewives and many of the island’s confectioners blend it with sugar to make a delicious sweet drenched in a syrup and blanched almonds. The long cheeses made from cow’s milk, known as “krasotyra” (literally “wine-cheeses”), are not simply fermented in wine, but in a thick mixture of boiled wine sediment that has an alcohol content of about 18-19 percent. The taste is often so rich that it has to be diluted with weaker wines. That thick aromatic mixture, known locally as “possia,” is much sought after by local cheesemakers and by the public in order to make their own cheeses. The wine mixture gives the cheese a bronze-red color on the outside and fine aroma that is a successful blend of the two. Try it simply with bread or fruit or add a slice to a tomato salad. Taste of wine and honey In antiquity, Kos was one of the most famous wine-producing and trading centers. Its excellent varieties and unique methods of winemaking have produced a dark dry red as well as a lighter-colored wine. Their uniqueness lies in the methodology, which has been copied by winemakers in other parts of Greece and involves using concentrated sea water to stabilize the wine, releasing oxidizing enzymes and ensuring the brilliance of the white color. T Comparatively quiet for the heart of Gazi, T welcomes guests with pink champagne. Among the starters are a tart with asparagus, tomatoes, parmesan, goat’s cheese and couscous salad, both wonderful. The steamed sole with herbs and grilled salmon with a spicy sauce and wild rice are inspired. For dessert, Black Forest with ice cream. • 43 Triptolemou & Orpheos, Gazi, tel 210.345.2052. Prices: 45-55 euros per person. ATHENSPLUS • FRIDAY, JUNE 27, 2008 GASTRONOMY The gourmet’s quick guide to Kos Unusual local dishes with krasotyro cheese make the island a tasty choice for gastronomes Rich flavor The taste of krasotyro is often so rich that it has to be diluted with weaker wines Famous Kos krasotyro, soaked in wine and ‘possia’ (from wine sediment). EATING OUT ΙI Tinello Some call it the best Italian restaurant in Athens. Stefano and Daniela are certainly in charge. No menu – the only question asked is if you want red or white wine. The parade of Italian cuisine includes salads, fresh mushrooms, excellent vitello (veal) with rocket and parmesan, risotto with porcini and all combinations of homemade pasta. • 54 Knossou, Alimos, tel 210.982.8462. Prices: 30-35 euros per person. Agioli In Thessaloniki, the Electra Palace Hotel restaurant is one of the best eateries in town. Try the sweet fried trahana (boiled cracked wheat) with herbs, chickpeas with tomato vinaigrette and lentil salad with pomegranate – for starters. Main courses include fresh tagliolini with leeks and celery and an aromatic sea bass. • Where to shop on Kos Irakleia Gi Women’s cooperative for traditional products. For firm tomatoes and freshly made pligouri (bulgur wheat). Aghia Triada Antimacheia, tel 22420.51225/51167. Paradosi Confectioners Near Kermende, Ibrahim has been making red tomato sweets with almonds since 1955. Try his ekmek (custard cake), katimeria (fried cheese pie) with mizithra cheese, ice cream and kazan dipi. Platani, tel 22420.21490. Denis Confectioners “Spoon sweets,” biscuits with whole aniseeds, cinnamon koulourakia and marzipan. 8 Megalou Alexandrou & 9 Vassileos Pavlou, tel 22420.23654. Ariston Confectioners A few tables for those who want to try the sweets on the spot. Get there early to sample cheese pies drenched in honey and hot bougatsa (custard pies). 2 Stefanou Kazouli Square, tel 22420.22258. Yiannou A small, modern dairy that produces, standardizes and sells krasotyro (wine-flavored cheese) to the local market and Athens. Also fresh traditional yogurt, both from cow’s and goat’s milk. Pyli, tel 22420.41398. Sweet tomatoes with syprup and almonds. 9 Aristotelous Square, Thessaloniki, tel 2310.262.888. Prices 6-11 euros (starters), 7-15 euros (main courses) per person. 33
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27-06-2008

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