27-06-2008

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ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES BY HARIS ARGYROPOULOS 42 Epidaurus, an ancient feat in acoustics The ancient site of Epidaurus in Argolis, 145 kilometers from Athens, is the site of Greece’s bestpreserved ancient theater, part of the wider complex of the Sanctuary of Asclepius, the Greek god of healing. Epidaurus was a famous healing and cultural center in ancient times, where people came to pay tribute to the gods and ask them for remedies for their physical ailments. The complex was built circa the 3rd century BC and included a multitude of buildings of various uses associated with the cult of Asclepius, the most famous of which today is the ancient theater. This is one of the very few ancient theaters that has retained its original circular orchestra and it is a rare aesthetic sight. During the Roman occupation of Greece, most theater orchestras were changed from the original circular shape to that of a semicircular amphitheater, but luckily Epidaurus was not only preserved as it was but was also extended. It emerged with only minor damage when it was rediscovered and excavated in 1881. Its view and acoustics are breathtaking: A person sitting in the top row can hear a conversation being spoken in normal tones at the center stage of the theater, which can accommodate 14,000 people. A 2007 study by researchers at the Georgia Institute of Technology indicates that the astonishing acoustic properties are either the result of an accident or the product of advanced design. The rows of limestone seats filter out lowfrequency sounds, such as the murmur of the crowd, and amplify or reflect high-frequency sounds from the stage. Every summer since 1954, the theater hosts performances of ancient Greek drama, which will start again for the season next Friday . The nearby Little Theater, which predates the main one, was dedicated to the god Dionysus. It has been restored and is used for musical performances, which this summer start June 27. ESCAPES & DIVERSIONS Archelon Saving the sea turtle Smokovo baths Healing waters ATHENSPLUS • FRIDAY, JUNE 27, 2008 AROUND GREECE Archelon, Greece’s Sea Turtle Protection Society, every summer relies heavily on hundreds of volunteers from all over the world who work at the stations it operates on the island of Zakynthos, at two locations in the southern Peloponnese and on the island of Crete, where the major nesting areas of the Caretta-caretta lie. Archelon’s mission is to protect the sea turtles and their habitats via monitoring and research, to develop and implement management plans, and to work toward habitat restoration, raising public awareness and rehabilitating sick and injured turtles. Every year around 300 turtles are tagged in order to follow their movements in the sea. Their work includes monitoring more than 2,500 nests along some 75 kilometers of coastline. On Zakynthos, Archelon conducts its projects under an agreement with the National Marine Park. Pilot sand dune restoration projects have been carried out behind nesting beaches. The organization also works closely with state agencies, local authorities, institutions, other NGOs, fishermen and local inhabitants in order to mitigate and reverse the population reduction of sea turtles. Volunteers have to be prepared to rise early and work several hours outdoors. Accommodation is in camping facilities. The cost of participation is 150 euros for two weeks and includes a year’s subscription to the organization’s publications. Volunteers also work in Archelon’s rescue center in the Athens suburb of Glyfada, where over over 50 injured sea turtles are treated every year. The center is open to visitors. INFO: Rescue Center, 3rd Marina Glyfada, tel/fax 210.898.2600, www.archelon.gr. The history of the Smokovo baths, near the central Greek town of Karditsa, dates back to 1662. Endowed with great natural beauty, and fed by mineral-rich waters, these baths are among the most famous in Greece for their benefits to the health. The healing waters flow at temperatures ranging from 29 to 40 degrees Celsius and are thus considered ideal for people suffering from respiratory and digestive disorders, skin conditions and chronic rheumatism, or endocrinological and gynecological ailments. The newly renovated facility includes 53 private baths with hydromassage, an inhalation therapy room, a nasal irrigation room and a communal steam bath and sauna. The baths, which are nestled in a small valley located at the 35th kilometer of the Karditsa-Rentina road at an altitude of 450 meters, are open to the public from June 1 to October 15. There are also a number of hotels in the area that are run by the municipal authorities to serve those who want to visit the baths, as well as a regular bus service from Karditsa. For more info on the Smokovo baths, call 24410.61210/80. Santorini Art center in an old sub-level winery Historical evidence in the form of grape seeds and engravings on pots found during excavations on the island of Santorini shows that viticulture on the island was developed well before 1700 BC. Because of the strong winds and little water on the island, the local grapes do not grow in arbors but are cultivated close to the ground in baskets that are actually made up of the stems or stalks of the vines themselves. There are a number of large wineries on the island that offer tours all day long and that include winetasting and food. Most people visit the larger wineries on the island which are well advertised and offer informative tours of their pumice rock-carved chambers, most of which are more than 100 years old. Art Space at the Exo Gonia village is now a gallery as well as a winery, dating back to 1861. You won’t find the massive equipment that you find at the larger wineries but you will find some pretty good art, contemporary Greek paintings and sculpture. Another unique feature of the museum, besides the winemaking facilities, is its tomato paste processing plant which has been preserved as as it was in the preindustrial era of the 19th century. Tel. 22860.32774. Open daily from 11 a.m. to sunset. Kavala Imaret, a monumental hotel The Imaret is a new luxury hotel – one of the most unique in the world and located within its namesake historical monument – built in 1817 and overlooking the city of Kavala in northern Greece. The original facility, which included an Islamic seminary, a mosque and a hamam (Turkish baths), was a gift from Mohammad Ali Pasha, the Ottoman Empire’s viceroy to Egypt, to the city where he was born. The complex crowns the hillside of Panagia, the city’s oldest district, offering stunning views of the sea and the surrounding hills. After almost a century of neglect, the site reopened in 2005 as this superb 27-room – and suite – hotel, with a gourmet restaurant, outdoor pool, massage and relaxation area, conference room, reception hall and a heated indoor pool under the original domes of the mosque. The building is an architectural delight, blending the Oriental and Western influences of the period. Its architecture closely resembles that of the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. Last year, the Imaret received the Best Boutique Hotel in Greece award. Prices vary from 220 to 1,500 euros per night for two people, not including breakfast. Reservations: tel 2510.620151. Lake Trichonida A nature lover’s paradise Trichonida, Greece’s largest lake, is located in the western mainland region of Aitoloacarnania and is a wetland of great aesthetic, environmental and economic interest. It has a surface area of 97 square kilometers. It offers a large variety of delights: Visitors can either enjoy a cool swim or the huge biodiversity, starting with some serious birdwatching. The lake is an important stop for migratory birds and home to many endangered species. More than 200 different species have been recorded along its shores. Lake Trichonida and its environs also host eight amphibian and over 17 reptilian species. Another of the area’s highlights are treks through the beautiful valleys and surrounding mountainsides, with perhaps a stop for a refreshing sip of fresh water from one the many springs along the way. After the day’s activities, you can sample some of the local delicacies, such as fresh fish from the lake (some 25 species live here), handmade pastries and pies, or meat cooked on the spit at one of the many tavernas that dot the shoreline.
BY HARIS ARGYROPOULOS Andros, the northernmost and second largest of the Cyclades, is nowadays perhaps best known for its museums, largely the products of prosperity derived from its strong shipping tradition. The marks of this wealth are abundantly evident in the island’s capital, Hora, with its neoclassical mansions, distinct interwar architectural character and narrow alleys. The prosperity brought by shipping probably helped limit the excesses of tourist development, but also contributed to the island’s somewhat insular reputation. In the 1950s, when its shipping industry saw rapid growth, Andros was known as one of the top summer resorts of Athenian high society, but also as one of the most inhospitable places for ordinary folks. Happily, this is no longer the case and the island’s proximity to Athens makes it a pleasant weekend getaway destination for most of the year, while its important cultural venues periodically host events of international interest. To be sure, Andros has a lot to offer besides culture. It stands out among the rest of the Cyclades for its plentiful fresh waters, cool valleys and lush hills filled with fig, olive and cypress trees. The 177-kilometer-long coastline is generally rocky, but has an abundance of excellent and uncrowded beaches: Mikrogiali, Achla, Fellos, Kastro, Melissa, Korthi, Halkiolimionas and Plaka among others. Quite a few of them are remote and require either a considerable walk or a car to reach them. The highlight is To Pidima tis Grias, north of Korthi Bay on the east coast. According to legend, the name is derived from the old woman who jumped from the Venetian castle above out of remorse for her betrayal when she opened the gate to the besieging Turks. The beaches near Hora are generally crowded. Gavrio, the port, and Batsi on the western coast, both fishing villages until about 20 years ago, have slowly developed and today they are practically joined together. The 7kilometer area in between is lined with sandy beaches and small coves. The restaurants, tavernas, bars, cafes and car, boat and motorbike hire and water sports facilities in this area all combine to make up lively tourist resorts. Most of the hotel rooms, studios and apartments can be found in this part of the island. The unofficial nudist beach is just on the edge of Batsi by Blue Bay. Undoubtedly Batsi is the ATHENSPLUS • FRIDAY, JUNE 27, 2008 TRAVEL Andros, rugged, cool and cultured The greenest of the Cyclades Islands is replete with artful slate walls, lonely mountains and terraced valleys The Panagia Thalassini chapel, below the Maritime Museum in Hora, and the nearby statue of the Unknown Seaman, are testimony to the island’s strong ties with shipping. Facts & figures The closest islands are Tinos, Syros and Myconos. Andros has an area of 374 square kilometers, maximum length 39.8 km, maximum width 16.7 km, coastline length 177 km and a population of about 10,000. It is the second-largest Cyclades island after Naxos and its port, Gavrio, is 2 hours (1 hour in a fast ship) from the port of Rafina (port authority, tel 22940.- 28888). Jeeps are the best way to tour the island and can be rented locally. lively center of entertainment with Gavrio a bit quieter but lacking in no respects. Andros is also superb for hiking, crisscrossed by traditional stone-paved paths, most of them well-preserved and offering long treks through lush villages and valleys, often dotted with remnants of water-powered mills and other installations of the pre-industrial era. The four-hour trek from Hora to Korthi is one such recommended route. You will not miss the artful, stone-built enclosures and walls, with huge slabs of flat perpendicular rock, probably unique in all of Greece. Palaiopoli, 9 kilometers from Batsi, the ancient capital of the island, is now a small picturesque village on a lush What to see In Hora: the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art, the Archaeological Museum, which includes a copy of the oversized 1st-century BC Hermes of Andros, and the neoclassical mansions. The Maritime Museum has a rich collection of ship models; the statue of the Unknown Seaman and the picturesque chapel of Panagia Thalassini, standing alone on a rock below Hora. The Dipotamata gorge, near Korthi, for a rough walk. Hikers’ haven Andros is superb for hiking, criss-crossed by traditional stone-paved footpaths offering long treks through lush villages and valleys 1 2 3 4 Where to eat Palinorio, in Hora, offers a widely varied menu; Asimolefka, in Ipsilou, preferred by the locals; Thalassa, in Batsi, for fresh fish; Pertesis, in Strapouries, for very tasty roast pork and which used to be patronized by Maria Callas and Christina Onassis; Kossis, in Ano Fellos, for roast lamb and goat; Platanos in Hora for ouzo. Buy traditional sweets, such as almond cakes (amigdalota), kaltsounia and the lemon preserve from Laskaris in Hora. slope, high above a beach reached via more than 1,000 steps. Apoikia, another lush village, along the route from Menites to Hora, boasts the Sariza spring, famous for its mineral water. The culturally oriented should not miss the Goulandris Museum of Contemporary Art in Hora, where an exhibition of works by the prominent painter and sculptor Yiannis Moralis opens on June 28. The museum also hosts permanent collections by Yiannis Tsarouchis, Spyros Vasiliou, Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Ghikas and Giorgos Bouzianis. The other important cultural venues in Hora are the Archaeological Museum, the Kydoniefs Foundation, the Maritime Museum, the Kairios Library and the Folk Museum. Where to stay Paradisos (tel 22820.22187/9) is a hotel with panoramic view in Hora; Alkyoni (tel 22820.245522/23652) offers rented rooms in the center of Hora; Filio (tel 22829.71420) has rented rooms near the beach in Kypri; Perrakis Hotel (tel 22820.71456) in Kypri is almost on the beach; Meltemi (tel 22820.41016) provides comfortable furnished apartments in Batsi); Onar (tel 210.620.2670) is a secluded class A hotel in Achla. 43
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