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Stabilisation of water-in-oil emulsions to improve - eTheses ...

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occlusion, whereby a moisturisers is a product that adds moisture <strong>to</strong> the sk<strong>in</strong> (Choi et<br />

al., 2005; Ersser et al., 2009).<br />

Emollients have three basic properties (Rawl<strong>in</strong>gs et al., 2004):<br />

Occlusion – traps <strong>water</strong> <strong>in</strong> the sk<strong>in</strong> via a layer <strong>of</strong> <strong>oil</strong> on the surface prevent<strong>in</strong>g<br />

transepidermal <strong>water</strong> loss, thus <strong>in</strong>crease the moisture content <strong>of</strong> the stratum<br />

corneum (outer layer <strong>of</strong> sk<strong>in</strong>).<br />

Humectants – substances with <strong>water</strong>-attract<strong>in</strong>g properties that <strong>in</strong>crease the<br />

<strong>water</strong> hold<strong>in</strong>g capacity <strong>of</strong> the stratum corneum (outer layer <strong>of</strong> sk<strong>in</strong>). By either<br />

attract<strong>in</strong>g moisture from the dermis <strong>to</strong> the epidermis or attract<strong>in</strong>g moisture<br />

from the environment <strong>to</strong> the epidermis.<br />

Lubrication - add<strong>in</strong>g slip or glide across the sk<strong>in</strong>.<br />

2.4 Lip Physiology & Emollient Therapy<br />

The outer layer <strong>of</strong> the lips (stratified squamous epithelium), as shown <strong>in</strong> Figure. 2.5,<br />

is devoid <strong>of</strong> the horny stratum corneum layer accord<strong>in</strong>g <strong>to</strong> Harry and Wilk<strong>in</strong>son,<br />

(1973); whilst Ryu et al., (2005) state that the stratum corneum is relatively th<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />

comparison <strong>to</strong> facial sk<strong>in</strong>. Either way, as a result the lips appear translucent and red<br />

due <strong>to</strong> underly<strong>in</strong>g blood vessels and a lack <strong>of</strong> kerat<strong>in</strong> (Kobayashi & Tagami, 2004).<br />

As a consequence <strong>of</strong> this deficiency <strong>in</strong> kerat<strong>in</strong> (partially-kerat<strong>in</strong>ised), these outer<br />

cells known as corneocytes must be kept moist <strong>in</strong> order <strong>to</strong> prevent dry<strong>in</strong>g, wr<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g<br />

15

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