Stabilisation of water-in-oil emulsions to improve - eTheses ...
Stabilisation of water-in-oil emulsions to improve - eTheses ...
Stabilisation of water-in-oil emulsions to improve - eTheses ...
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occlusion, whereby a moisturisers is a product that adds moisture <strong>to</strong> the sk<strong>in</strong> (Choi et<br />
al., 2005; Ersser et al., 2009).<br />
Emollients have three basic properties (Rawl<strong>in</strong>gs et al., 2004):<br />
Occlusion – traps <strong>water</strong> <strong>in</strong> the sk<strong>in</strong> via a layer <strong>of</strong> <strong>oil</strong> on the surface prevent<strong>in</strong>g<br />
transepidermal <strong>water</strong> loss, thus <strong>in</strong>crease the moisture content <strong>of</strong> the stratum<br />
corneum (outer layer <strong>of</strong> sk<strong>in</strong>).<br />
Humectants – substances with <strong>water</strong>-attract<strong>in</strong>g properties that <strong>in</strong>crease the<br />
<strong>water</strong> hold<strong>in</strong>g capacity <strong>of</strong> the stratum corneum (outer layer <strong>of</strong> sk<strong>in</strong>). By either<br />
attract<strong>in</strong>g moisture from the dermis <strong>to</strong> the epidermis or attract<strong>in</strong>g moisture<br />
from the environment <strong>to</strong> the epidermis.<br />
Lubrication - add<strong>in</strong>g slip or glide across the sk<strong>in</strong>.<br />
2.4 Lip Physiology & Emollient Therapy<br />
The outer layer <strong>of</strong> the lips (stratified squamous epithelium), as shown <strong>in</strong> Figure. 2.5,<br />
is devoid <strong>of</strong> the horny stratum corneum layer accord<strong>in</strong>g <strong>to</strong> Harry and Wilk<strong>in</strong>son,<br />
(1973); whilst Ryu et al., (2005) state that the stratum corneum is relatively th<strong>in</strong> <strong>in</strong><br />
comparison <strong>to</strong> facial sk<strong>in</strong>. Either way, as a result the lips appear translucent and red<br />
due <strong>to</strong> underly<strong>in</strong>g blood vessels and a lack <strong>of</strong> kerat<strong>in</strong> (Kobayashi & Tagami, 2004).<br />
As a consequence <strong>of</strong> this deficiency <strong>in</strong> kerat<strong>in</strong> (partially-kerat<strong>in</strong>ised), these outer<br />
cells known as corneocytes must be kept moist <strong>in</strong> order <strong>to</strong> prevent dry<strong>in</strong>g, wr<strong>in</strong>kl<strong>in</strong>g<br />
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