Stabilisation of water-in-oil emulsions to improve - eTheses ...

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6 Conclusions .................................................................................................... 111 7 Further Work ................................................................................................... 113 Appendix .................................................................................................. 114 References .............................................................................................. 120 vi
Figures Fig. 1.1. The global cosmetics industry segmented market. ....................................... 3 Fig. 1.2. The Top 10 Global Players in the cosmetics industry. .................................. 3 Fig. 2.1. Ricinoleic acid; the main fatty acid in Castor Oil (85%). Hydroxyl fuctional group gives Castor oil its unusual polar qualities. .................................................... 10 Fig. 2.2. Castor Oil – main triglyceride polar structure with Ricinoleic acid. ............... 8 Fig. 2.3. Pigments & Dyes. ......................................................................................... 9 Fig. 2.4. Carnauba Wax main ester structure. .......................................................... 12 Fig. 2.5. Structural physiology of the Lips, showing the cells of the epidermis and dermis ...................................................................................................................... 16 Fig. 2.6. Crystallized triacylglycerols (TAG), (a) molecular structure, (b) tuning fork conformation and (c) chair conformation. ................................................................. 29 Fig. 2.7. Double chain length structures, (a) alpha (α) tuning fork, (b) beta prime (β’) tilted tuning fork and (c) beta (β) stacked chair. ....................................................... 30 Fig. 2.8. Triple chain length structures, (a) alpha (α) tuning fork, (b) beta prime (β’) tilted tuning fork and (c) beta (β) stacked chair. ....................................................... 31 Fig. 4.1. Flow Chart for the Preparation of Basic Lipstick. ........................................ 47 Fig. 4.2. Flow Chart for the Preparation of Emulsion Lipstick ................................... 53 Fig. 4.3. Profile of Penetrometer Test ...................................................................... 61 Fig. 4.4. Profile of Compression Firmness Test conducted ...................................... 63 Fig. 5.1. Isotherms of equilibrium Interfacial Tension (mN/m) vs Concentration of Emulsifier (mg/L), between Castor oil and water (de-ionised), measured by Kruss vii
Page 1 and 2: Stabilisation of water-in-oil emuls
Page 3 and 4: Abstract The stabilisation of water
Page 5 and 6: Contents 1 Introduction ...........
Page 7: 4.7.1 Penetrometer Test ...........
Page 11 and 12: Fig. 5.18. DSC Thermograms for the
Page 13 and 14: Fig. 5.36. Changes in the viscoelas
Page 15 and 16: Table. 5.6. Emulsion based Lipstick
Page 17 and 18: Symbols α Alpha β Beta β’ Beta
Page 19 and 20: provide additional moisture for the
Page 21 and 22: 1.1 Layout of the Thesis This Thesi
Page 23 and 24: more than 2 to 3 applications daily
Page 25 and 26: O HO O C H 3 CH 3 O OH O O O Molecu
Page 27 and 28: C H 3 HO O OH Molecular Formula = C
Page 29 and 30: C H 3 C H 3 Molecular Formula = C 6
Page 31 and 32: the long chains. Due to its structu
Page 33 and 34: and subsequent infections. This can
Page 35 and 36: In order to attain a state of minim
Page 37 and 38: which there is an excess of opposit
Page 39 and 40: By applying the HLB system, one wil
Page 41 and 42: 2.7 Emulsion stability & instabilit
Page 43 and 44: (Voorhees, 1992; Dickinson, Ritzoul
Page 45 and 46: chains are in free rotation and pre
Page 47 and 48: (a) (b) (c) Fig. 2.7. Double chain
Page 49 and 50: prevented by the addition of crysta
Page 51 and 52: 2.9 Microbial stability & Origin of
Page 53 and 54: There are a number of important fac
Page 55 and 56: which of course is an important con
Page 57 and 58: ideal for assessing not only the de
Page 59 and 60:
3 Materials 3.1 Waxes & Emulsifiers
Page 61 and 62:
With the continuous phase being oil
Page 63 and 64:
melting point range in order to mai
Page 65 and 66:
The moulds were then placed in a fr
Page 67 and 68:
Table. 4.2. IFT Procedure settings
Page 69 and 70:
4.4 Emulsion Lipstick Preparation F
Page 71 and 72:
The water was transferred directly
Page 73 and 74:
emulsions were taken in triplicate
Page 75 and 76:
d0,0; number-weighted mean (e.g. NM
Page 77 and 78:
4.7 Texture Profile Analysis - TA T
Page 79 and 80:
4.7.2 Compression Test The second m
Page 81 and 82:
4.7.3 Rheology Rheological non-dest
Page 83 and 84:
critical micelle concentration (CMC
Page 85 and 86:
Interfacial Tension (mN/m) 10 CMC -
Page 87 and 88:
Sorbitan Hydrophilic portion (Water
Page 89 and 90:
HO O O O O Water droplet O O O O HO
Page 91 and 92:
5.3.2 Wax selection for Simplified
Page 93 and 94:
5.3.3 Thermo-physical Characteristi
Page 95 and 96:
Heat Flow Endo/Exo (mW) 2% PGPR DSC
Page 97 and 98:
Heat Flow Endo/Exo (mW) 2% Span 80
Page 99 and 100:
Table. 5.3. Thermo-physical charact
Page 101 and 102:
Relative frequency Emulsion Stabili
Page 103 and 104:
drainage and rupture. In spite of t
Page 105 and 106:
Table. 5.4. Emulsion based Lipstick
Page 107 and 108:
Page 109 and 110:
Page 111 and 112:
the emulsification process along wi
Page 113 and 114:
Fig. 5.29. 30 wt% water content wit
Page 115 and 116:
Fig. 5.33. Cryo-SEM micrograph of H
Page 117 and 118:
no doubt give rise to a much denser
Page 119 and 120:
Table. 5.9. Texture profile penetro
Page 121 and 122:
Table. 5.10. Compression firmness d
Page 123 and 124:
Although no emulsions were prepared
Page 125 and 126:
G' & G'' (Pa) x 10 5 Viscoelastic p
Page 127 and 128:
Table. 5.11. Viscoelastic moduli, G
Page 129 and 130:
potentially reduce microbial spoila
Page 131 and 132:
Appendix The following Figures; 5.9
Page 133 and 134:
Heat Flow Endo/Exo (mW) 5 4 3 2 1 0
Page 135 and 136:
Heat Flow Endo/Exo (mW) 2.0 1.5 1.0
Page 137 and 138:
References Adamczyk, S., Lázaro, R
Page 139 and 140:
Dweck, A. C., & Burnham, C. A. M. (
Page 141 and 142:
Kobayashi, H., & Tagami, H. (2004).
Page 143 and 144:
Pourreza, N., & Rastegarzadeh, S. (
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