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the role of sourcing agents in global apparel supply chains

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for <strong>the</strong> growth <strong>of</strong> <strong>global</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s. Sourc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>agents</strong> have been <strong>in</strong>tegral to <strong>the</strong> rapid<br />

growth <strong>in</strong> imports <strong>of</strong> <strong>apparel</strong> to <strong>the</strong> United States.<br />

From 1989 to 2004, <strong>apparel</strong> goods imported to United States tripled, from $21<br />

billion to $65 billion, account<strong>in</strong>g for more than 60 percent <strong>of</strong> <strong>apparel</strong> sold <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> USA as<br />

<strong>of</strong> 2004 (Abernathy, Volpe, & Weil, 2006). Given this growth, it is imperative that both<br />

academicians and <strong>in</strong>dustry leaders understand <strong>the</strong> mechanisms that have facilitated <strong>the</strong><br />

flow <strong>of</strong> goods with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>. Dac<strong>in</strong> (2002) wrote that “<strong>the</strong>re is still little known<br />

about <strong>the</strong> mechanisms that drive <strong>the</strong> wax<strong>in</strong>g and wan<strong>in</strong>g <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> power <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>stitutions<br />

across time” (p. 53). The proposed research addresses <strong>the</strong> <strong>role</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong> <strong>agents</strong> as<br />

govern<strong>in</strong>g mechanisms facilitat<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> <strong>global</strong> production and movement <strong>of</strong> goods with<strong>in</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> <strong>apparel</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry. As part <strong>of</strong> this paper, <strong>global</strong> <strong>apparel</strong> <strong>supply</strong> cha<strong>in</strong>s are considered<br />

an <strong>in</strong>stitution, with <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong> <strong>agents</strong> structurally positioned as govern<strong>in</strong>g actors that<br />

facilitate trade with<strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>stitution.<br />

History <strong>of</strong> Global Apparel Supply Cha<strong>in</strong>s<br />

Dur<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> U.S. Civil War, <strong>the</strong> South was severely h<strong>in</strong>dered by a loss <strong>of</strong> cotton<br />

trade with Great Brita<strong>in</strong> (Kunz & Garner, 2007). Even before <strong>the</strong> U.S. Civil War, many<br />

countries were trad<strong>in</strong>g textile goods such as silk produced <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a and transported to<br />

Italy for fur<strong>the</strong>r trade (Kunz & Garner, 2007). Both cotton trade with Great Brita<strong>in</strong> and<br />

silk trade <strong>in</strong> Ch<strong>in</strong>a represent <strong>the</strong> effort by manufacturers and marketers to f<strong>in</strong>d <strong>the</strong> best<br />

possible materials and products despite <strong>the</strong> locations <strong>of</strong> those materials. Still today,<br />

retailers seek <strong>the</strong> greatest possible return on assets through various strategies <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g<br />

f<strong>in</strong>d<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong> most efficient, pr<strong>of</strong>itable and socially acceptable locations to produce goods.<br />

Thus, <strong>the</strong> world has evolved <strong>in</strong>to a large bed <strong>of</strong> economic opportunity for retailers. For<br />

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