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the role of sourcing agents in global apparel supply chains

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egulations <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> trade or unions <strong>the</strong>y belong to and <strong>in</strong> some cases, <strong>the</strong> <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong> agencies<br />

might also belong to for recognition. Much <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> regulation <strong>in</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>apparel</strong> <strong>in</strong>dustry is a<br />

result <strong>of</strong> self-polic<strong>in</strong>g (Levy & Weitz, 2009). Many American firms subject <strong>the</strong>mselves<br />

to <strong>the</strong>ir own labor and production regulations to avoid bad public relations due to<br />

sweatshop conditions or contam<strong>in</strong>ated products. The goal <strong>of</strong> self-polic<strong>in</strong>g is to reduce <strong>the</strong><br />

potential for human rights violations and health and safety standards. This project<br />

<strong>in</strong>vestigates how <strong>in</strong>dustry managers and <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong> <strong>agents</strong> view <strong>the</strong> concept <strong>of</strong> regulation<br />

through question<strong>in</strong>g <strong>the</strong>ir perception <strong>of</strong> <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong> agent regulation.<br />

Legitimation <strong>of</strong> Sourc<strong>in</strong>g Agents<br />

Ano<strong>the</strong>r key component <strong>of</strong> an <strong>in</strong>stitution is legitimation, which can be a susta<strong>in</strong>ed<br />

driv<strong>in</strong>g force among organization actors, such as <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong> <strong>agents</strong>. This concept <strong>of</strong><br />

legitimation actually comb<strong>in</strong>es aspects <strong>of</strong> an <strong>in</strong>stitution and validates <strong>the</strong> <strong>role</strong> <strong>of</strong> <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong><br />

<strong>agents</strong> as a govern<strong>in</strong>g entity. For example, when Meyer and Rowan addressed<br />

Institutional Theory as a system <strong>of</strong> class elements ra<strong>the</strong>r than a process as Selznick<br />

suggests, <strong>the</strong> authors still imply that <strong>in</strong>stitutions can be rewarded through <strong>in</strong>creased<br />

legitimacy, resources and survival techniques (Meyer & Rowan, 1977). Accord<strong>in</strong>g to<br />

Hirsch (1975), “Retail outlets and ultimate consumers comprise <strong>the</strong> societal subsystem<br />

that rewards <strong>the</strong> preced<strong>in</strong>g subsystems through purchase and o<strong>the</strong>r positive feedback<br />

(legitimation)…” (p. 329). Sourc<strong>in</strong>g <strong>agents</strong> have become more legitimized through <strong>the</strong><br />

growth <strong>of</strong> <strong>in</strong>ternational trade and communication technologies. Today, <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong> <strong>agents</strong><br />

<strong>of</strong>fer extensive services <strong>in</strong>clud<strong>in</strong>g product development, raw material <strong>sourc<strong>in</strong>g</strong>, quality<br />

assurance, and shipp<strong>in</strong>g consolidation (Abernathy et. al. 2006). Due to numerous barriers<br />

and <strong>the</strong> <strong>in</strong>ability to check production facilities adequately from remote locations, U.S.<br />

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