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the magazine y - Desert Magazine of the Southwest

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Only <strong>the</strong> hardiest travelers went to Srand Canyon<br />

a half century ago. The approach roads were<br />

rough and <strong>the</strong> trail to <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> gorge was<br />

a nightmare. But Capt. John Hance was <strong>the</strong>re as<br />

guide and packer — and to make sure that <strong>the</strong><br />

tourists got <strong>the</strong>ir money's worth he entertained<br />

<strong>the</strong>m with tall tales <strong>of</strong> his exploits in that region.<br />

John Hance is dead now—but his reputation for<br />

true western hospitality — and wild yarns — still<br />

lives.<br />

dapt<br />

n 41 a tnee<br />

He Built Trails and Spun<br />

Yarns at Grand Canyon<br />

By FRANK C. LOCKWOOD<br />

Author <strong>of</strong><br />

''Pioneer Days in Arizona"<br />

"The Apache Indians''<br />

AID Buckey O'Neill, "God made<br />

<strong>the</strong> canyon, John Hance <strong>the</strong> trails.<br />

Without <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, nei<strong>the</strong>r would<br />

be complete." And a distinguished traveler,<br />

Chester P. Dorland, wrote in <strong>the</strong><br />

guest book in which visitors used to record<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir impressions after seeing <strong>the</strong><br />

canyon: "Captain John Hance,—a genius,<br />

a philosopher, and a poet, <strong>the</strong> possessor<br />

<strong>of</strong> a fund <strong>of</strong> information vastly important—if<br />

true. He laughs with <strong>the</strong> giddy,<br />

yarns to <strong>the</strong> gullible, talks sense to<br />

<strong>the</strong> sedate, and is a most excellent judge<br />

<strong>of</strong> scenery, human nature and pie. To<br />

see <strong>the</strong> canyon only, and not to see Captain<br />

Hance, is to miss half <strong>the</strong> show."<br />

Early Arizonans asked no questions<br />

about a comrade's past. I have talked<br />

with many <strong>of</strong> Hance's old friends, but<br />

none <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m can say with certainty what<br />

state Hance came from. If anyone questioned<br />

him concerning his past, he would<br />

go straight up into <strong>the</strong> air, and reply that<br />

he did not like ancient history.<br />

A few years ago, fearing that <strong>the</strong><br />

Hince tradition might perish, I invited<br />

three very distinguished gentlemen who<br />

JULY, 1940<br />

knew Hance in <strong>the</strong> heyday <strong>of</strong> his fame,<br />

tc dine with me. The conversation that<br />

cening revolved about Captain John<br />

I-ance and his stories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grand Canyon.<br />

My guests were Dr. D. T. Mac-<br />

Cougal, Godfrey Sykes, and Dr. A. E.<br />

Eouglass—scientists all three, yet raconteurs<br />

and artists, too. The symposium developed<br />

something after this manner:<br />

Lockuood—Dr. MacDougal, can you<br />

c; 11 up a picture <strong>of</strong> Hance—his personal<br />

appearance, and habits?<br />

MacDougal—I would say he was a<br />

wea<strong>the</strong>red, hard-bitten, hard-boiled man<br />

--not so very tall—a sharp face—<strong>the</strong><br />

top <strong>of</strong> his head ra<strong>the</strong>r square. His voice<br />

was a sort <strong>of</strong> high falsetto as he approached<br />

<strong>the</strong> climax <strong>of</strong> a tale—like Tedd/<br />

Roosevelt's voice. He was very spare<br />

and erect, and he walked on his heels. I<br />

hive seen him going down <strong>the</strong> canyon<br />

with a load on his back, putting his heels<br />

dDwn hard, and looking back over his<br />

shoulder saying to those behind, 'Yes,<br />

y-s, yes.'<br />

Lock-wood- When was <strong>the</strong> Hance trail<br />

opened?<br />

,.<br />

This photograph <strong>of</strong> John Hance taken in 1884. Photo<br />

reproduced by M. M. Evans from an old print in possession<br />

<strong>of</strong> George Hockderfjer.<br />

MacDongal—I went down it in 1891.<br />

It had <strong>the</strong>n been in use for several years.<br />

Hance always took people down on foot,<br />

and at that time his trail was <strong>the</strong> only<br />

one into <strong>the</strong> Grand Canyon. The fact is<br />

his whole livelihood was dependent on<br />

those who went to his camp and stayed<br />

<strong>the</strong>re. One would arrive at his place and<br />

spend <strong>the</strong> night, and Hance would pack<br />

<strong>the</strong> grub down for <strong>the</strong> trip. However, he<br />

wouldn't carry <strong>the</strong> blankets.<br />

Lockwood—Did he operate independently,<br />

or was he employed by some company?<br />

MacDougal—He was on his own at<br />

that time.<br />

Lockwood—When did he become a<br />

pr<strong>of</strong>essional liar and story-teller?<br />

MacDougal—Oh, when he was born!<br />

Here is an example <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> instantaneous<br />

character <strong>of</strong> his imagination. I remember<br />

meeting him in Flagstaff about two years<br />

after my first visit to <strong>the</strong> canyon. I ran<br />

into him on <strong>the</strong> street close to Donahue's<br />

saloon, and said, How are you, Mr.<br />

Hance? I was up to your place recently.'<br />

15

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