the magazine y - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
the magazine y - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
the magazine y - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
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Only <strong>the</strong> hardiest travelers went to Srand Canyon<br />
a half century ago. The approach roads were<br />
rough and <strong>the</strong> trail to <strong>the</strong> bottom <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> gorge was<br />
a nightmare. But Capt. John Hance was <strong>the</strong>re as<br />
guide and packer — and to make sure that <strong>the</strong><br />
tourists got <strong>the</strong>ir money's worth he entertained<br />
<strong>the</strong>m with tall tales <strong>of</strong> his exploits in that region.<br />
John Hance is dead now—but his reputation for<br />
true western hospitality — and wild yarns — still<br />
lives.<br />
dapt<br />
n 41 a tnee<br />
He Built Trails and Spun<br />
Yarns at Grand Canyon<br />
By FRANK C. LOCKWOOD<br />
Author <strong>of</strong><br />
''Pioneer Days in Arizona"<br />
"The Apache Indians''<br />
AID Buckey O'Neill, "God made<br />
<strong>the</strong> canyon, John Hance <strong>the</strong> trails.<br />
Without <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r, nei<strong>the</strong>r would<br />
be complete." And a distinguished traveler,<br />
Chester P. Dorland, wrote in <strong>the</strong><br />
guest book in which visitors used to record<br />
<strong>the</strong>ir impressions after seeing <strong>the</strong><br />
canyon: "Captain John Hance,—a genius,<br />
a philosopher, and a poet, <strong>the</strong> possessor<br />
<strong>of</strong> a fund <strong>of</strong> information vastly important—if<br />
true. He laughs with <strong>the</strong> giddy,<br />
yarns to <strong>the</strong> gullible, talks sense to<br />
<strong>the</strong> sedate, and is a most excellent judge<br />
<strong>of</strong> scenery, human nature and pie. To<br />
see <strong>the</strong> canyon only, and not to see Captain<br />
Hance, is to miss half <strong>the</strong> show."<br />
Early Arizonans asked no questions<br />
about a comrade's past. I have talked<br />
with many <strong>of</strong> Hance's old friends, but<br />
none <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong>m can say with certainty what<br />
state Hance came from. If anyone questioned<br />
him concerning his past, he would<br />
go straight up into <strong>the</strong> air, and reply that<br />
he did not like ancient history.<br />
A few years ago, fearing that <strong>the</strong><br />
Hince tradition might perish, I invited<br />
three very distinguished gentlemen who<br />
JULY, 1940<br />
knew Hance in <strong>the</strong> heyday <strong>of</strong> his fame,<br />
tc dine with me. The conversation that<br />
cening revolved about Captain John<br />
I-ance and his stories <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Grand Canyon.<br />
My guests were Dr. D. T. Mac-<br />
Cougal, Godfrey Sykes, and Dr. A. E.<br />
Eouglass—scientists all three, yet raconteurs<br />
and artists, too. The symposium developed<br />
something after this manner:<br />
Lockuood—Dr. MacDougal, can you<br />
c; 11 up a picture <strong>of</strong> Hance—his personal<br />
appearance, and habits?<br />
MacDougal—I would say he was a<br />
wea<strong>the</strong>red, hard-bitten, hard-boiled man<br />
--not so very tall—a sharp face—<strong>the</strong><br />
top <strong>of</strong> his head ra<strong>the</strong>r square. His voice<br />
was a sort <strong>of</strong> high falsetto as he approached<br />
<strong>the</strong> climax <strong>of</strong> a tale—like Tedd/<br />
Roosevelt's voice. He was very spare<br />
and erect, and he walked on his heels. I<br />
hive seen him going down <strong>the</strong> canyon<br />
with a load on his back, putting his heels<br />
dDwn hard, and looking back over his<br />
shoulder saying to those behind, 'Yes,<br />
y-s, yes.'<br />
Lock-wood- When was <strong>the</strong> Hance trail<br />
opened?<br />
,.<br />
This photograph <strong>of</strong> John Hance taken in 1884. Photo<br />
reproduced by M. M. Evans from an old print in possession<br />
<strong>of</strong> George Hockderfjer.<br />
MacDongal—I went down it in 1891.<br />
It had <strong>the</strong>n been in use for several years.<br />
Hance always took people down on foot,<br />
and at that time his trail was <strong>the</strong> only<br />
one into <strong>the</strong> Grand Canyon. The fact is<br />
his whole livelihood was dependent on<br />
those who went to his camp and stayed<br />
<strong>the</strong>re. One would arrive at his place and<br />
spend <strong>the</strong> night, and Hance would pack<br />
<strong>the</strong> grub down for <strong>the</strong> trip. However, he<br />
wouldn't carry <strong>the</strong> blankets.<br />
Lockwood—Did he operate independently,<br />
or was he employed by some company?<br />
MacDougal—He was on his own at<br />
that time.<br />
Lockwood—When did he become a<br />
pr<strong>of</strong>essional liar and story-teller?<br />
MacDougal—Oh, when he was born!<br />
Here is an example <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> instantaneous<br />
character <strong>of</strong> his imagination. I remember<br />
meeting him in Flagstaff about two years<br />
after my first visit to <strong>the</strong> canyon. I ran<br />
into him on <strong>the</strong> street close to Donahue's<br />
saloon, and said, How are you, Mr.<br />
Hance? I was up to your place recently.'<br />
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