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the magazine y - Desert Magazine of the Southwest

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How long are you going to be in<br />

town?' he asked.<br />

To make conversation, I said, Well,<br />

how is <strong>the</strong> canyon?'<br />

Oh,' he said, '<strong>the</strong>y are filling it up.'<br />

'Well, that's interesting,' said I.<br />

'Yes,' he continued, 'those — — —<br />

tourists that I take out kick so much gravel<br />

into it that <strong>the</strong>y're filling <strong>the</strong> thing up.'<br />

I don't believe he ever told or thought<br />

<strong>of</strong> this before.<br />

I saw Hance at <strong>the</strong> canyon again in<br />

1903. He was <strong>the</strong>n employed by <strong>the</strong> hotel<br />

people, just a privileged guest. Later on,<br />

he was given his own cottage and bed<br />

and meals by <strong>the</strong> Harvey company so<br />

that he would stay around and entertain<br />

<strong>the</strong> sightseers. On this occasion I saw him<br />

in <strong>the</strong> middle <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> room talking to various<br />

people. Walking over to him, I said,<br />

'My name is MacDougal—I went down<br />

your trail some years ago.'<br />

What did you think <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon?'<br />

he asked. I replied, Every time I return,<br />

it is grander than I remembered it.'<br />

'Now, what do you think <strong>of</strong> that?<br />

Hc.nce asked triumphantly. Some <strong>of</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>se old guinea hens' (he waved his<br />

arms around including <strong>the</strong> groups <strong>of</strong><br />

tourists around him) 'think <strong>the</strong>re's nothing<br />

to it!'<br />

'Well, Mr. Hance,' I continued, 'how<br />

have you been?' Oh,' said John, I have<br />

had lean years—all <strong>the</strong>se years I've lived<br />

on expectations and mountain scenery.'<br />

I heard him tell this soap story to <strong>the</strong><br />

guinea hens' at El Tovar. He began by<br />

saying that upon one occasion <strong>the</strong> snow<br />

became so heavy up at <strong>the</strong> rim <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />

canyon that <strong>the</strong>re were no longer any<br />

visitors and he decided to go down to<br />

Flagstaff and spend <strong>the</strong> winter.<br />

Said he, "It was a delicate job to know<br />

just when <strong>the</strong> winter was actually beginning.<br />

Each season I timed my departure<br />

with references to two things: <strong>the</strong> lowness<br />

<strong>of</strong> my grub supply, and <strong>the</strong> near<br />

approach <strong>of</strong> a heavy snowfall. One night<br />

when I was all set to get out, a terrible<br />

storm came. It lasted two or three days.<br />

I contrived a pair <strong>of</strong> snowshoes and started<br />

from camp. After half a day's travel<br />

with <strong>the</strong>se snowshoes, fashioned from<br />

split pine, I fell and hurt my ankle so<br />

badly that I could not go any far<strong>the</strong>r.<br />

However, I managed some way to work<br />

my way back to <strong>the</strong> cabin.<br />

When I got <strong>the</strong>re, I found <strong>the</strong>re was<br />

nothing left but half a jar <strong>of</strong> sorghum<br />

molasses and a box <strong>of</strong> Babbitt's Best<br />

Soap. I prepared a mixture <strong>of</strong> soap and<br />

molasses in a skillet, slicing <strong>the</strong> soap into<br />

flakes, and adding a few shavings from<br />

an old boot leg to make <strong>the</strong> mixture as<br />

tasty as possible. Ladies and gentlemen,<br />

that was all I had to eat for a week, when<br />

<strong>the</strong> snow melted. I tell you frankly, and<br />

I expect you to believe me, I have never<br />

liked <strong>the</strong> taste <strong>of</strong> soap from that day to<br />

this.'<br />

Every morning he would tell that story<br />

Picture <strong>of</strong> Capt. Hance in 1912.<br />

Photograph, courtesy Fred Harvey<br />

company.<br />

at <strong>the</strong> breakfast table. There would be a<br />

duad silence after he had finished, <strong>the</strong><br />

people not knowing whe<strong>the</strong>r to laugh<br />

01 not.<br />

Lockwood—Can you tell us one <strong>of</strong><br />

tr e stones he used to tell about <strong>the</strong> canyon,<br />

after he was employed by <strong>the</strong> Harvey<br />

hotel as <strong>of</strong>ficial guide?<br />

Sykes—Here is a botanical item. He<br />

was guiding a party down <strong>the</strong> trail one<br />

day and <strong>the</strong>re was a young lady in <strong>the</strong><br />

company who was interested in botany.<br />

As she went along she was picking leaves<br />

from <strong>the</strong> various trees and plants, and<br />

was examining <strong>the</strong>m and talking about<br />

<strong>the</strong>m. Finally she said:<br />

You know, Mr. Hance, <strong>the</strong> tree is a<br />

wonderful organism—it really brea<strong>the</strong>s.'<br />

John thought a moment. "Why, yes,'<br />

h_> said, 'it does.' Again he reflected.<br />

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