02.08.2013 Views

WatchTime - August 2012

WatchTime - August 2012

WatchTime - August 2012

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

Create successful ePaper yourself

Turn your PDF publications into a flip-book with our unique Google optimized e-Paper software.

ing partner Victorin Piguet. The movement contained 19 jewels<br />

and relied on a classic pincer mechanism with an additional column<br />

wheel to control the split-seconds hand. This timepiece<br />

was sold to Tiffany & Co. in New York on Oct. 7, 1924. The<br />

early wristwatch rattrapante models used a button in the crown<br />

to start the chronograph, to stop it, and to return its hands to<br />

their zero positions. The split-seconds mechanism was controlled<br />

via a button at 2 o’clock. These elaborate chronographs<br />

had cushion-shaped gold cases; their dials sometimes included<br />

tachymeter scales to measure average speeds.<br />

Watchmakers began working on movement number<br />

198.012 on May 11, 1925. This was a comparable Victorin<br />

Piguet movement in so-called “Lépine” design, i.e., the runningseconds<br />

subdial and the 30-minute counter were collinear with<br />

the crown. The unusual feature of this timepiece, which was<br />

sold on Jan. 4, 1927, is that all its operating elements were on<br />

the left-hand side of its cushion-shaped case. These included a<br />

little slide between the crown and the split-seconds button,<br />

which was located at 8 o’clock. This slide enabled the owner,<br />

who was probably a southpaw, to block the chronograph function<br />

for added security.<br />

HOW A CLASSIC SPLIT-SECONDS<br />

MECHANISM WORKS<br />

Split-second chronograph watches have<br />

in the center of the dial a pair of seconds<br />

hands to measure elapsed seconds. The<br />

additional seconds hand, which sits atop<br />

the principal elapsed-seconds hand, enables<br />

the timing of intermediate intervals<br />

of time – the laps of a car driving around<br />

a racetrack, for instance – within a longer<br />

period of time. When the chronograph is<br />

switched on, both hands begin to move,<br />

together, as if they were a single hand.<br />

When the first interval ends, the watch<br />

wearer stops the split-seconds hand,<br />

notes the elapsed time, and then restarts<br />

the hand, causing it to jump forward to<br />

catch up with the principal hand, which<br />

has been moving continuously since the<br />

chronograph was started.<br />

This requires a fixed but flexible connection<br />

between the two hands. This connection<br />

shouldn’t sap an unduly large<br />

dose of energy from the movement’s<br />

mainspring and is therefore a very delicate<br />

one. The difficulties begin with<br />

drilling the very long hole through the<br />

staff of the chronograph’s center wheel:<br />

this staff must be quite long because it<br />

The third model in this series (number 198.018, with round<br />

gold case no. 411.525) was shipped on Jan. 31, 1927 to New<br />

York, where Tiffany sold it with its own name on the dial.<br />

Another rattrapante chronograph (movement number<br />

198.076) began in a cushion-shaped gold case in 1927, but<br />

reappeared in a round case in 1935, perhaps because there was<br />

no buyer for it. It left the manufacture one year later. There were<br />

probably not more than a dozen of these very early split-seconds<br />

chronographs.<br />

The economic upheavals that shook the world in the 1930s<br />

had a profound impact on Patek Philippe. A drastic decline in<br />

extends through the entire movement.<br />

Furthermore, the bore hole must be extremely<br />

precise so that the even thinner,<br />

even longer, and extremely straight staff<br />

of the split-seconds wheel can turn with<br />

minimal friction inside the cylindrical<br />

opening. Any eccentricity or bend will<br />

interfere with its proper functioning.<br />

Watchmakers screw the so-called<br />

“split-seconds heart” (colored brown in<br />

the illustration) to the rear of the chronograph’s<br />

center wheel. This wheel later cooperates<br />

with the split-seconds wheel<br />

(pale blue), which is affixed to the splitseconds<br />

staff. The split-seconds wheel<br />

bears the split-seconds lever (dark blue),<br />

which has a little ruby roller on its free<br />

end. A slender steel spring (green) presses<br />

the split-seconds lever so firmly against<br />

the double-hand’s heart that the ruby<br />

roller, because of its shape, rests in the little<br />

notch. This contact suffices to cause<br />

the split-seconds hand to rotate along<br />

with the chronograph’s elapsed-seconds<br />

hand. An “X”-shaped pincers (red), controlled<br />

by a column wheel, stops the splitseconds<br />

hand. The finely toothed ends of<br />

these pincers act like a shoe brake. If the<br />

thicker parts on either side of this pincers<br />

rest atop pillars of the split-seconds column<br />

wheel (yellow), then the brake is released<br />

so the split-seconds hand and its<br />

companion rotate together.<br />

When the user presses the<br />

rattrapante button, the column wheel<br />

turns and advances one position. The descent<br />

of the thickened parts between the<br />

columns closes the pincers (illustration on<br />

the left). The two arms press against the<br />

split-seconds wheel and thus stop the<br />

split-seconds hand. In this instance, the<br />

ruby roller runs along the circumference<br />

of the split-seconds heart. When the pincers<br />

reopen, the spring’s pressure guides<br />

the roller into the notch in the heart, and<br />

the split-seconds hand catches up with<br />

the chronograph’s elapsed-seconds hand<br />

(illustration on the right). As long as the<br />

chronograph is running, this interplay can<br />

be repeated as often as the user desires.<br />

Split-seconds constructions also exist with<br />

parallel pincers. The function is exactly reversed<br />

in this case: prongs that descend<br />

between the columns open the pincers.<br />

<strong>August</strong> <strong>2012</strong> <strong>WatchTime</strong> 55

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!