02.08.2013 Views

WatchTime - August 2012

WatchTime - August 2012

WatchTime - August 2012

SHOW MORE
SHOW LESS

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.

CLOSE-UP<br />

Patek Philippe Reference 5204<br />

A COMPARISON OF THE<br />

TWO ISOLATORS:<br />

Conventional isolator in caliber<br />

CH 27-70/150 (“octopus”)<br />

A conventional split-seconds isolator needs two<br />

oppositely acting springs. One of them is affixed<br />

below the split-seconds wheel; the other is<br />

attached above it. These two springs alternately<br />

control the connection between the split-seconds<br />

wheel and the chronograph’s center wheel. This<br />

elaborate construction burdens the split-seconds<br />

wheel with additional moved mass, which in turn<br />

affects the balance’s amplitude. Furthermore, the<br />

bearing for the chronograph’s axle is also additionally<br />

stressed and the height of the movement<br />

must be increased.<br />

Isolator in the new caliber<br />

CHR 29-535 PS Q<br />

In Patek Philippe’s new construction, only one<br />

spring, above the split-seconds column wheel and<br />

working in two directions, is needed. The new<br />

split-seconds mechanism is simpler to construct.<br />

Its principal advantage is that the weight of the<br />

springs is shifted from the split-seconds, which<br />

must be moved, to the static column wheel and<br />

the plate. This construction takes much of the<br />

load off the bearing for the chronograph’s axle<br />

and makes the movement thinner than it would<br />

be with a conventional isolator.<br />

58 <strong>WatchTime</strong> <strong>August</strong> <strong>2012</strong><br />

The so-called “octopus” isolator<br />

in caliber CHR 27-70/150<br />

satisfy Patek Philippe’s needs until the 1980s. When the ébauches<br />

ran out, Patek Philippe chose as its new supplier the<br />

renowned Nouvelle Lémania ébauche manufacturer. The agreement<br />

between Patek and Lémania regulated delivery of all basic<br />

components for caliber 2320, including the plate. Everything<br />

else was handled by Patek Philippe on its own premises in Geneva.<br />

Patek Philippe modified more than 60 percent of the components<br />

delivered by Lemania. Reference 3970, which had a<br />

chronograph and perpetual calendar, debuted at the Basel fair in<br />

1986. Connoisseurs had to wait 10 years for the split-seconds<br />

version, Reference 5004.<br />

That watch was powered by Caliber CHR 27-70/150, 8.86<br />

mm tall and containing 404 components. The split-seconds<br />

mechanism, which was developed by the manufacture, included<br />

an unconventional component with a shape that strongly resembled<br />

the tentacles of an octopus. This so-called “octopus<br />

wheel” performed an important and innovative function. In ordinary<br />

mechanisms, the little ruby roller of the split-seconds<br />

lever continues to run around the split-seconds heart when the<br />

split-seconds hand is stopped. This saps energy and therefore reduces<br />

the balance’s amplitude. Patek Philippe counteracted this<br />

not inconsiderable loss of energy by equipping caliber CHR 27-<br />

70/150 with an isolator. This component completely uncouples<br />

the split-seconds wheel from the chronograph’s center wheel<br />

A Patek Philippe split-seconds chrono from the<br />

1920s with movement by Victorin Piguet

Hooray! Your file is uploaded and ready to be published.

Saved successfully!

Ooh no, something went wrong!