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24 NIGHTLIFE<br />
Bars<br />
Galaxie bar Bože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel.<br />
(+385-) 091 242 42 22. Should you find yourself up in the<br />
Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality.<br />
Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart<br />
bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big<br />
screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good<br />
mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo, DJ parties<br />
on Fridays and regular live music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.<br />
PNGBX<br />
Maat Bar R-2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports<br />
Centre, tel. (+385-) 098 32 81 64. On the ground floor of<br />
the big sports complex in the heart of Trsat, this bar “sports”<br />
a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both a popular spot for a coffee<br />
by day and for evening drinks before hitting town. There’s a<br />
large terrace and relaxed soundtrack, featuring house and<br />
r’n’b and Croatian music on Fridays. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00,<br />
Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PLGBX<br />
Mirage Istarska bb. The Mirage bar is on the top level of this<br />
smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge<br />
music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things<br />
get lively. A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there<br />
are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink<br />
and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PBX<br />
Monokini Maršala Tita 96, Opatija, tel. (+385-51)<br />
70 38 88. If you’re beginning to tire of Opatija’s haughty<br />
belle-epoque self-image then it’s high time you headed for<br />
Monokini, where sixties’ inspired furniture and sculptural light<br />
fittings provide a this-is-not-the-riviera-of-old sense of popart<br />
modernity. Changing exhibitions of art and photography<br />
enliven the walls, while the bendy bit of metal below the bar<br />
throws hall-of-mirrors reflections back on bemused drinkers.<br />
The street-facing terrace is a great place to slump if there’s<br />
enough sunshine. <strong>In</strong> the evening, DJ decks in the corner<br />
provide the source of chillout sounds or frisky bone-bending<br />
beats, depending on what night of the week it is. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 02:00. PNGBX<br />
Pepe Rosso D-3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20<br />
56, www.peperossobar.com. <strong>In</strong> the lovely old quarter by<br />
the ferry terminal, this bar hots up at nightfall to the sound of<br />
Latino pasión. Tuesday night is the time to trip to the haughty<br />
steps of tango, and regional stars of the salsa scene fly in on<br />
Wednesdays. The evenings start with dance classes followed<br />
by freestyling till clock strikes two. There’s a classy drinks<br />
menu, a few nibbles, book promotions, art exhibitions, live<br />
blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all<br />
age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really! QOpen<br />
07:30 - 02:00. Closed Sun. PAGBW<br />
Rozi E-2, Pavla Ritera Vitezovića 11, tel. (+385-51) 33<br />
84 23. Favoured by <strong>Rijeka</strong>’s student crowd, Rozi is a little<br />
scruffy, which gives it a laid-back feel. Cheap drinks and snacks<br />
are accompanied by lively music, conversation, gesticulation<br />
and mastication. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00.<br />
Closed Sun. PNB<br />
Sabrage R-2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236<br />
75 37. Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old<br />
Trsat is unsurpassed. <strong>In</strong>side, antiques cushion your bones<br />
and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu<br />
(excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities,<br />
and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent<br />
indeed. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. PENBX<br />
Teta Roža S-3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 098 137 61<br />
19. Possibly the best of <strong>Rijeka</strong>’s neighbourhood bars, with a<br />
marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more<br />
arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs<br />
on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock<br />
gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the<br />
main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter<br />
beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other<br />
Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place<br />
is well worth struggling up the hill for. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00,<br />
Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PNBX<br />
Tunel E-1, Školjić 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 71 16, tunel@<br />
zabava.hr. Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in<br />
a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of electronic music,<br />
laid back jazz and alternative culture - you’ll find exhibitions,<br />
fairs of handcrafts and all sorts here. The cool interior has<br />
a small stage for live jam sessions. As an added bonus,<br />
they serve great coffee from 8 AM, and there’s a free net<br />
connection in case you decide to finish your work while tapping<br />
your toes!QOpen Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00,<br />
Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PNBX<br />
Clubs<br />
Boa E-2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 01/<br />
(+385-) 091 339 93 39, club_boa@yahoo.com, www.<br />
clubboa.com. This confection reminds one of a chocolate<br />
box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly<br />
modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest<br />
spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. <strong>In</strong> the<br />
evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressedup<br />
crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian<br />
music scene graces Boa with a live performance. QOpen<br />
07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. PNB<br />
<strong>Rijeka</strong> <strong>In</strong> <strong>Your</strong> <strong>Pocket</strong> rijeka.inyourpocket.com
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