Rijeka 12.indd - In Your Pocket

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Primorje
Crikvenica
Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along
the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial
architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns
around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better
days. Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star
of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of
the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the
former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which
gave the town its name - crikva means “church” in local
dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home.
A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and
respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However,
Crikvenica never become as fashionable - nor as expensive -
as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the
large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely
popular resort today, and a great destination for families with
kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play
area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there
is a small charge for entry).
Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the
monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until
1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens
surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8,
tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 09:00 - 19:00, July - August
31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20 - 30kn) is beautifully
laid out and really fascinating.
Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather
similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty
of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are
just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.
Martina Jajčević
Novi Vinodolski
This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol
valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with
fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting
the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of
Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were
once important centres during feudal times, and all have
incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine
Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.
You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning
the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight
and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it
must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and
the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower
belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a countrystyle
church with a lovely square where you can look out
over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan
fortress, where the Vinodol code was written - an important
legal document protecting the rights of commoners from
feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back
to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of
sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for
this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the
type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe
that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a
simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.
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