Rijeka 12.indd - In Your Pocket

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30 WHAT TO SEE The Old City (Stari grad). The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera. Industrial Rijeka It’s a working city, so there’s none of that wuss lying around you get in most tourist resorts. You get both the busy and progressive feel of a modern urban city, plus some fine historic architecture. The Paper Mill (Tvornica papira) F-1, Ružićeva bb. Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards - see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”. Lost for words? Just click! rijeka.inyourpocket.com The Shipyards (Brodogradilište) L-3, Liburnijska 3. Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines. Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs - the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region. The Sugar Refinery (Tvornica šećera) A-1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses. The Torpedo Factory (Tvornica torpeda) M-3, Jože Vlahovića 19. Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka? Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this. One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife - Whitehead’s daughter. Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com
Train Station (Željeznički kolodvor) A-2, Petra Krešimira 5. The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings. Landmarks rijeka.inyourpocket.com WHAT TO SEE We are actively involved in the showcase of our natural and cultural diversities Sense the new Mediterranean with a unique area where people live within Mediterranean spirit and the Central European heritage City Market (Velika tržnica) E-3, Verdieva. Together with the nearby National Theatre and its park, the Modello Palace and numerous residential, commercial and industrial buildings, the City Market forms a super urban architectural complex. At its core are beautiful art nouveau market halls, especially the lively fish market, which is in an imposing Liberty style building with charming mouldings by famous Venetian sculptor Urbano Bottasso of the poor crustaceans destined soon to hit your plate. Don’t miss the city’s central market if you love to get the feel for real local atmosphere. Stalls piled high Strategic coordination with: Riva 1, 51 000 Rijeka • Phone: +385 51 351-177 • Fax: +385 51 331-764 • rijeka.gateway@portauthority.hr • www.portauthority.hr with fresh local produce and the cheery banter of traders and their customers are one of the everyday pleasures of this part of the world. The market is a good place for speciality delicatessen, and the lively fish market at the end closest to the sea is a must if you have the means to cook your own! The pleasant streets of the market area are lined with fast food takeaways and inexpensive konoba for a quick and authentic lunch - see the “Restaurants” section - plus a few pleasant cafés with leafy terraces. Memorial Bridge to Rijeka’s Soldiers (Most hrvatskih branitelja) E-2, Uskočka riva. A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagrebbased architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic! Summer 2012 31
Page 1: Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife
Page 4 and 5: 4 FOREWORD What comes to your mind
Page 6 and 7: 6 ARRIVING IN RIJEKA Tourist inform
Page 8 and 9: 8 BASICS Customs All major items br
Page 10: 10 CULTURE & EVENTS Tereza Kesovija
Page 14 and 15: 14 CULTURE & EVENTS Rijeka Summer N
Page 16 and 17: 16 WHERE TO STAY Ambasador Feliksa
Page 18 and 19: 18 WHERE TO STAY Primorje Upmarket
Page 20 and 21: 20 RESTAURANTS International Kamov
Page 22 and 23: 22 RESTAURANTS Lavrvs Nova cesta 12
Page 24 and 25: 24 NIGHTLIFE Bars Galaxie bar Bože
Page 26 and 27: 26 WHAT TO SEE Essential Rijeka Rij
Page 28: 28 WHAT TO SEE Fountains Rijeka has
Page 33 and 34: The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Ast
Page 35 and 36: music at the Philharmonic Institute
Page 37 and 38: The Girl with a Seagull Definitely
Page 39 and 40: Making the call You’ve memorised
Page 41 and 42: ijeka.inyourpocket.com GETTING AROU
Page 43 and 44: Diving Centre Kostrena People have
Page 45 and 46: Boris Sekulić To make sure that vi
Page 47 and 48: Dry cleaners & Laundries Blitz O-3,
Page 49 and 50: Health tourism in Croatia has a his
Page 51 and 52: � HEALTH TOURISM ��
Page 53 and 54: Health & Spa Gordana Poščić R-3,
Page 55 and 56: Go Gourmet The gastronomy of this p
Page 57 and 58: Sport Adventure sports Travelana D-
Page 59 and 60: ijeka.inyourpocket.com KVARNER Summ
Page 61 and 62: Mariko Kolarz protector of Krk. Thi
Page 63: Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-

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