Rijeka 12.indd - In Your Pocket

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32 WHAT TO SEE Port of Rijeka (Riječka luka) D-3. The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume. War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two. During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed. Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year. War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline. However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more. Rijeka’s Bridges (Riječki mostovi) F-1/2 / E-2. “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance - many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these. Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned - you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” - “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans. Sušak - Pećine Q/S-3/4. The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti - “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during Austro-Hungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5). Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books. In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument. The Milkmaid (Mljekarica) E-2, Užarska. By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese - grobnički sir - try it if you see it on the menu. neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time Silvia Kovačević Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com
The Rijeka Astronomical Center (Astronomski Centar Rijeka) Sveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, astronomski-centar-rijeka@rijekasport.hr, www. astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomy center that was built in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city and up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via line 7a from the city centre (Delta). It is set in a building which was built in 1941as a military fortress. Subsequently, in 2001, a telescope was built there Rijeka’s first observatory was established, by installing a new planetarium hall into an already existing fortress. The Astronomical Center now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy. Special presentations are organized for foreign tourists every Wednesday at 21:30. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 10 -20kn. The Roman Gate (Stara vrata) D-2, Trg Julija Klovića. Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs. The Statue of Kamov (Janko Polić Kamov) F-1, Titov trg. On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings - a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24. Museums If you’d like to tour Rijeka’s Natural History Museum, you’ll be glad to know that interactive audio guides to the museum are now available in Croatian and in English, meaning that you can enjoy a guided tour at any time during the Museum’s opening hours. Modern and Contemporary Art Museum (Muzej moderne i suvremene umjetnosti) C-2, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, mmsu-rijeka@ri.t-com.hr, www. mmsu.hr. Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. rijeka.inyourpocket.com WHAT TO SEE Peek&Poke E-1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Hands up if you love PC’s! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum in computer technology? Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles and computers spread across two levels. In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go... fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 5 computers available to visitors as a cost of 15kn per half an hour or 20kn per hour. Q Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun Open by prior arrangement. Admission 20kn. State Archives in Rijeka (Državni arhiv Rijeka) D-1, Park Nikole Hosta 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 64 45/(+385-51) 33 64 47, drzavni-arhiv@ri.t-com.hr, www.riarhiv.hr. Rijeka’s branch of the State Archives handles documents of national-level importance from Rijeka, the surrounding County and the town of Senj. The oldest document dates back to 1201. The Archives have a library and exhibition room, where exhibitions are held which can tell a lot about the history of Rijeka and its famous faces through time. The Archives’ home is the Androch villa (in the Nikola Hosta park), where Archduke Joseph once lived. Q During exhibitions open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free. The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral (Pomorski i povijesni muzej Hrvatskog primorja) D-1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, info@ppmhp.hr, www.ppmhp. hr. One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorsko-goranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in prehistorical times through to the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections. For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Admission 5 - 10kn. www.inyourpocket.com Summer 2012 33
Page 1: Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife
Page 4 and 5: 4 FOREWORD What comes to your mind
Page 6 and 7: 6 ARRIVING IN RIJEKA Tourist inform
Page 8 and 9: 8 BASICS Customs All major items br
Page 10: 10 CULTURE & EVENTS Tereza Kesovija
Page 14 and 15: 14 CULTURE & EVENTS Rijeka Summer N
Page 16 and 17: 16 WHERE TO STAY Ambasador Feliksa
Page 18 and 19: 18 WHERE TO STAY Primorje Upmarket
Page 20 and 21: 20 RESTAURANTS International Kamov
Page 22 and 23: 22 RESTAURANTS Lavrvs Nova cesta 12
Page 24 and 25: 24 NIGHTLIFE Bars Galaxie bar Bože
Page 26 and 27: 26 WHAT TO SEE Essential Rijeka Rij
Page 28: 28 WHAT TO SEE Fountains Rijeka has
Page 31: Train Station (Željeznički kolodv
Page 35 and 36: music at the Philharmonic Institute
Page 37 and 38: The Girl with a Seagull Definitely
Page 39 and 40: Making the call You’ve memorised
Page 41 and 42: ijeka.inyourpocket.com GETTING AROU
Page 43 and 44: Diving Centre Kostrena People have
Page 45 and 46: Boris Sekulić To make sure that vi
Page 47 and 48: Dry cleaners & Laundries Blitz O-3,
Page 49 and 50: Health tourism in Croatia has a his
Page 51 and 52: � HEALTH TOURISM ��
Page 53 and 54: Health & Spa Gordana Poščić R-3,
Page 55 and 56: Go Gourmet The gastronomy of this p
Page 57 and 58: Sport Adventure sports Travelana D-
Page 59 and 60: ijeka.inyourpocket.com KVARNER Summ
Page 61 and 62: Mariko Kolarz protector of Krk. Thi
Page 63: Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-

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