Rijeka 12.indd - In Your Pocket

28 WHAT TO SEE
Fountains
Rijeka has an exceptionally large number of fountains. Before
the city had a water system, they made use of the many
springs which have their source in the very centre. Some
of these being underground, public washing facilities and
drinking fountains were built for practical purposes, providing
places where the inhabitants would gather and catch up with
the daily gossip. Many of the original ones are long gone
since the building of the modern water system, but in more
recent years decorative fountains have been built that give
the city a pleasant character. They’re all places where you
can sit and enjoy a little refreshment in the summer heat.
The Jadranski trg Fountain (Fontana Jadranski
trg) C-2, Jadranski trg. Two squarish, hexagonal structures
in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting
place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a
circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that
tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets
arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty
and soothing noise.
The Kawasaki Fountain (Fontana Kawasaki)
E-2, Jelačićev trg. Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed,
this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two
children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988
by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring
symbol of friendship. Surrounded by greenery and flowers,
it has become a favourite meeting point for young people,
for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it
as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other
momentous occasions.
The Korzo Fountain (Fontana Korzo) D-2, Korzo.
Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver
cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source”
at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural
springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka
and the Velebit range.
The Old Paper Millstones (Stari kolodrob) D-2,
Koblerov trg. A perfect symbol of the interplay between
Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental
elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with
their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s
first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece,
and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed
edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a
source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented
the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the
occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.
www.inyourpocket.com
The Public Drinking Fountain (Javna slavina) A-2,
Krešimirova. Just opposite the train station, this unusual,
conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water
was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool,
refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for
years, since 1873.
Historical areas
Calvary 17-18 century (Riječka kalvarija iz 17-18.
st.) E-1, Kalvarija. Just north of St Vitus Church is a path
named Kalvarija - Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential
Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by
the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their
attempt to catch a little glory (17-18th centuries). The path
leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to
the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the
way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains
of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks
of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from
the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of
the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala
cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau
and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a
pleasant walk - if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives
you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential
areas in the hills north of the centre.
Remains of the 4thC Roman Praetorium
(Kasnoantički kastrum 4st.) D-2, Trg Ivana Koblera.
Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of
ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful
soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your
insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once
part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica,
from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills
behind were managed.
The Fort of the Holy Cross (Gradina sv. Križ) T-2,
Sveti križ. Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of
Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of
defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the
coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland
Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort,
as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks). Because
of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a
scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and
tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in
December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre,
spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to
be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found
in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view
over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!
Rijeka In Your Pocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com