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music at the Philharmonic <strong>In</strong>stitute which once occupied the<br />
first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian,<br />
Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza - the centre of the city’s<br />
social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by<br />
evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th<br />
anniversary of <strong>Rijeka</strong>’s paper mill (see <strong>In</strong>dustrial <strong>Rijeka</strong>) makes<br />
this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.<br />
Parks<br />
The Gardens of Our Lady of Trsat (Perivoj Gospe<br />
Trsatske) V-2, Trsat. Built within the walls of the monastery<br />
at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created<br />
in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your<br />
sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St<br />
Mary at Trsat.<br />
The Mlaka Park (Park Mlaka). One of the oldest<br />
and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874<br />
to make a break between the city centre and the western<br />
suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic<br />
centre with a swathe of green. The original huge space,<br />
watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting<br />
place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put<br />
up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream<br />
running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.<br />
The Nikola Hosta Park (Park Nikole Hosta) D-1,<br />
Žrtava fašizma. Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th<br />
century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial<br />
Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries<br />
such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke<br />
Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all<br />
over the world for these gardens, which he established at the<br />
beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several<br />
levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed<br />
to achieve the look of an English garden - it’s rather lost its<br />
former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the<br />
State Archives in <strong>Rijeka</strong>. The park is named after the Austrian<br />
botanist who helped plant it - the very same who discovered<br />
the genus hosta, we suspect.<br />
The Theatre Park (Kazališni park) E-3, Ivana Zajca.<br />
Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony<br />
with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city<br />
market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and<br />
has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back<br />
to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties<br />
appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto,<br />
Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.<br />
rijeka.inyourpocket.com<br />
WHAT TO SEE<br />
The Vladimir Nazor Park (Park Vladimira Nazora)<br />
D-1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora. This park continues uphill<br />
from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the<br />
Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical<br />
Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of<br />
Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined<br />
the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian<br />
Parliament.<br />
Religious collections<br />
The Collection of St Vitus Cathedral (Sakralna<br />
zbirka Katedrale sv. Vida) E-1, Trg Grivica 11, tel.<br />
(+385-51) 33 08 79. The Cathedral’s interior has many<br />
wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the<br />
room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits<br />
during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The<br />
most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary,<br />
made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and<br />
reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made<br />
by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and <strong>Rijeka</strong>. The oldest item<br />
is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church<br />
of St Vitus stood here. Call for visit tour. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00.<br />
Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.<br />
The Permanent Collection of Votive Offerings<br />
(Stalna izložba zavjetnih darova) U-1, Frankopanski<br />
trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. <strong>In</strong>cludes model ships,<br />
paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by<br />
grateful people whose prayers have been answered. Q Open<br />
07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.<br />
The Treasury and Gallery of Our Lady of Trsat<br />
(Riznica i galerija Svetište Gospe Trsatske) U-1,<br />
Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. The<br />
Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one<br />
of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia - no<br />
mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting<br />
this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build<br />
the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to<br />
the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and<br />
members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures<br />
include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and<br />
a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art<br />
gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious<br />
art. Q Open by prior arrangement. Admission free.<br />
The Treasury of the Franciscan Monastery, Trsat<br />
(Riznica Franjevačkog samostana, Trsat) U-3,<br />
Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00. All kinds<br />
of churchy stuff dating back to the 13th century, including<br />
incunabula and a valuable collection of vestments. Q Open<br />
by prior arrangement. Admission free.<br />
Summer 2012<br />
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