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My Years with Ludwig von Mises.pdf - The Ludwig von Mises Institute

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today? We tried-and were sent back. On this day only French,<br />

American, and English citizens were allowed by the customs officers<br />

to cross into Spain. "Come back tomorrow," we were told.<br />

Lu was in a terrible state of mind. As calm and composed as he<br />

seemed, he was not made for adventures and uncertainties of this<br />

kind. I needed all my courage to help him overcome his desolation.<br />

For the night we found quarters in the railroad hotel in Cerberes.<br />

Dinner in the hotel, more than anything else, showed the straits the<br />

French were in. As hors d'oeuvres we got a single, lonely sardine<br />

served on a large plate, and as a main course they gave us some<br />

spaghetti. <strong>The</strong>re was no meat, no bread, no vegetable. But as a<br />

consolation we were given a bottle of good red wine. <strong>The</strong> room we<br />

stayed in overnight had one window, which opened to the railroad<br />

platform. Though there were few trains running, just when we<br />

tried to get some sleep, a freight train rattled into the station, people<br />

shouted, strange red lights flared up, and then again came<br />

darkness and silence, until another train passed through. We woke<br />

up in the morning <strong>with</strong>out having really slept. <strong>The</strong>re was no bath;<br />

one small gray outworn towel had to suffice for both of us. After we<br />

had a cup of coffee, we tried again at the border. <strong>The</strong> day before the<br />

officers had not even opened our passports. This time, after they<br />

examined them, we were told that our Spanish visa was not good<br />

anymore and that the Portuguese visa also had to be renewed,<br />

since it had been issued in June and only those written in July<br />

were valid for this month. We were ordered to get new visas from<br />

the Spanish consulate in Toulouse.<br />

Very early the next day, 4 A.M., Lu boarded a train to Toulouse.<br />

He took <strong>with</strong> him the passports of all the passengers on the bus,<br />

including those of seven Portuguese. Late that night Lu came<br />

back, totally exhausted. He had managed to get visas for all the<br />

passengers except the Portuguese. <strong>The</strong>y were turned back for the<br />

third time. Finally, the next day we crossed the border, immediately<br />

got a train for Barcelona, and caught a plane for Lisbon. It<br />

was a rather small plane and my first flight. I cannot say that I<br />

enjoyed it.<br />

When we arrived in Lisbon, we tqok a deep breath. Our first days<br />

there were fully occupied <strong>with</strong> visits to the police (every foreigner<br />

had to register), to the various transportation offices, and to the<br />

American consulate. We were staying at a small but beautifully<br />

located hotel on the coast. Many of our new friends off the bus<br />

were also there, and we frequently met the other passengers in<br />

town. We were still like a big family.<br />

Lisbon was the most picturesque city I had ever seen. <strong>The</strong><br />

houses were painted either a brilliant white, a light delicate pink,<br />

or, sometimes, a soft green or a bright yellow. Some of them were<br />

58

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