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doc241 - Schoenherr Home Page in Sunny Chula Vista

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He replied, 'No, the town is four miles away.' I saw a merry tw<strong>in</strong>kle <strong>in</strong> his eye, which I<br />

afterwards <strong>in</strong>terpreted as mean<strong>in</strong>g, ' Won't the Yankee schoolma'am be surprised when<br />

she sees the town.'<br />

"Wild look<strong>in</strong>g horsemen, flourish<strong>in</strong>g their riatas, were com<strong>in</strong>g from different directions<br />

toward the land<strong>in</strong>g, and the very gait of the horses seemed different from anyth<strong>in</strong>g<br />

I had ever seen before. There were no wharves at the time. Passengers were carried <strong>in</strong><br />

the ship's boats to shallow water and then carried on the backs of sailors to the shore.<br />

Fortunately for me, a little skiff was over from the lighthouse, which saved me the humiliat<strong>in</strong>g<br />

experience meted out to others.<br />

"Once on shore, I was placed with my trunk on a wagon await<strong>in</strong>g me, and we<br />

started for Old Town. The prospect as we<br />

<strong>Page</strong> 249<br />

neared the town was not encourag<strong>in</strong>g, but the climax was reached when we arrived<br />

safely at the plaza. Of all the dilapidated, miserable look<strong>in</strong>g places I had ever seen, this<br />

was the worst. The build<strong>in</strong>gs were nearly all adobe, one story <strong>in</strong> height, with no chimneys.<br />

Some of the roofs were covered with tiles and some with earth. One of these<br />

adobes, an old ru<strong>in</strong>, stood <strong>in</strong> the middle of the plaza. It has s<strong>in</strong>ce been removed. The<br />

Old Town of today is quite a modern town, compared with the Old Town of 1865.<br />

"I was driven to the hotel, which was to be my future board<strong>in</strong>g place. It was a<br />

frame structure of two stories, s<strong>in</strong>ce burned. The first night of my stay at the hotel a<br />

donkey came under my w<strong>in</strong>dow and saluted me with an unearthly bray. I wondered if<br />

some wild animal had escaped from a menagerie and was prowl<strong>in</strong>g around Old Town.<br />

The fleas were plentiful and hungry. Mosquitos were also <strong>in</strong> attendance. The cook<strong>in</strong>g at<br />

the hotel was quite unlike the cook<strong>in</strong>g at the Hotel del Coronado at the present time. I<br />

sat at the table alone, be<strong>in</strong>g the only woman <strong>in</strong> the house. An Indian boy waited on me<br />

at the table and also gave me the news of the town."<br />

<strong>Page</strong> 250<br />

PART II. CHAPTER XI. ANNALS OF THE CLOSE OF OLD SAN DIEGO<br />

In 1850, the first steamship l<strong>in</strong>e between San Francisco and San Diego was established,<br />

touch<strong>in</strong>g at San Pedro, Santa Barbara, San Luis Obispo, and Monterey. The<br />

first l<strong>in</strong>e was owned by a San Franciscan named Wright. In 1856, he transferred it to the<br />

California Steam Navigation Company, and they soon sold to the Pacific Coast Steamship<br />

Company. The first steamers were the Ohio, Goliah, and Fremont, while the Southerner,<br />

Senator, and Thomas Hunt also ran at times. In later years the Ancon and Orizaba<br />

were the regular coastwise steamers. They were all side-wheelers of small tonnage.<br />

As they approached the wharf at San Diego, it was the custom to fire a cannonshot<br />

from the bow, to give notice of their arrival.<br />

The Pacific Mail Steamship Company's steamers from Panama also called twice<br />

a month. Among those call<strong>in</strong>g <strong>in</strong> 1851 were the Northerner, Tennessee, Antelope, and<br />

others. The fare from New York to San Francisco was, first class, $330; second class,<br />

$290; and steerage, $165.

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