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he published <strong>in</strong> 1832 told some remarkable stories. Accord<strong>in</strong>g to this veracious chronicler,<br />

the form of the Presidio was "nearly circular, and it is surrounded by a wall about 20<br />

feet <strong>in</strong> height, which forms the back sides of the houses. There are about 250 houses<br />

erected <strong>in</strong> this manner, from one to two stories high, built of freestone and neatly f<strong>in</strong>ished.<br />

There is also a large church, one nunnery, and a very neat little court-house. This<br />

town conta<strong>in</strong>s about 1,500 <strong>in</strong>habitants, pr<strong>in</strong>cipally natives of the coast." Does the reader<br />

care for more? Well, it seems that while here, he and seven Spanish companions had a<br />

desperate hand-to-hand conflict with fifty mounted Indian warriors of whom they killed<br />

seventeen, while on a hunt<strong>in</strong>g expedition. Notwithstand<strong>in</strong>g the gallant capta<strong>in</strong>'s evident<br />

weakness for draw<strong>in</strong>g a long bow, his statement that a whale boat was built dur<strong>in</strong>g his<br />

stay here is perhaps entitled to belief.<br />

In December, 1826, the American explorer and trapper, Jedediah S. Smith, and<br />

party, who had crossed the desert, follow<strong>in</strong>g down the Colorado river and reached San<br />

Gabriel, were brought to San Diego to be dealt with by Governor Echeandía. They had<br />

a somewhat unfriendly reception, but were allowed to secure supplies and depart. The<br />

accounts of this visit do not seem to <strong>in</strong>clude anyth<strong>in</strong>g of <strong>in</strong>terest regard<strong>in</strong>g the town or<br />

people of San Diego.<br />

The next visitor was the French Capta<strong>in</strong> Duhaut-Cilly, who came <strong>in</strong> 1827 and<br />

liked the harbor better than the town. He writes that the port is "without doubt the best <strong>in</strong><br />

all California," safer than that of San Francisco even, and that this is due to natural advantages<br />

rather than to artificial improvements. He cont<strong>in</strong>ues: "A sad place is the Presidio<br />

of San Diego, the saddest of all that we had visited <strong>in</strong> California, except San Pedro.<br />

It is built on the slope of an arid hill and has no regular form. It is a shapeless mass<br />

of houses, all the more gloomy because of the dark color of the bricks of which they are<br />

rudely constructed. Under the presidio on a sandy pla<strong>in</strong> are seen thirty or forty scattered<br />

houses of poor appearance and a few gardens badly cultivated."<br />

The American, James O. Pattie, claimed to have spent the greater part of the<br />

year 1828 <strong>in</strong> the Presidio prison, and afterward published a narrative <strong>in</strong> which he described<br />

only his prison, thus: "My prison was a cell eight or ten feet square, with walls<br />

and floors of stone. A door with iron bars an <strong>in</strong>ch square like the bars of w<strong>in</strong>dow sashes,<br />

and it grated on its iron h<strong>in</strong>ges as it opened to receive me. Over the external front of<br />

<strong>Page</strong> 135<br />

this prison was <strong>in</strong>scribed <strong>in</strong> capital letters Dest<strong>in</strong>acion de la Cattivo."<br />

The episode of the Pattie party <strong>in</strong> 1828 is a most <strong>in</strong>terest<strong>in</strong>g one and not as well<br />

known as it deserves to be. These eight Americans occupied a prison on Presidio hill for<br />

several months, and the leader died there. The feel<strong>in</strong>g of the Californians was not particularly<br />

hostile to Americans, perhaps rather less so than to Spaniards; but all foreigners<br />

were regarded with suspicion and kept under as strict a surveillance as the <strong>in</strong>efficient<br />

adm<strong>in</strong>istration of the time could contrive. The earlier visits of sea rovers on the<br />

coast were now be<strong>in</strong>g followed up by <strong>in</strong>cursions of trappers and semi-military parties<br />

from the <strong>in</strong>terior. Many books had appeared giv<strong>in</strong>g glow<strong>in</strong>g accounts of the country, and<br />

the mysterious ichor <strong>in</strong> the blood of the American pioneer which still draws him ever toward<br />

the sett<strong>in</strong>g sun was full of potency. The Californians had just cause for alarm, as<br />

events soon proved. Some acts of violence and <strong>in</strong>justice resulted, at other places, notably<br />

the arrest and deportation to Tepic of a large number of foreigners at Monterey and<br />

other places <strong>in</strong> 1840. But on the whole, consider<strong>in</strong>g the volatile temperament of the rul-

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