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your complete guide to outstanding outdoor areas - PlaceMakers

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• Is it spaced correctly Measure from reference point multiplying the<br />

spacing by the number of gaps.<br />

• Does it follow the fenceline Use packers against both stringlines.<br />

• Is it tall enough Measure from the stringline <strong>to</strong> the <strong>to</strong>p of the post.<br />

• Is it vertical Check the side of each post with a spirit level.<br />

5. With posts braced in position, fill the holes with concrete as with end posts.<br />

Recheck as in Step 4 above and if necessary adjust and rebrace.<br />

6. Leave 7 days for the concrete <strong>to</strong> harden. If you also intend <strong>to</strong> pour a mowing<br />

strip along the fenceline, do it now.<br />

Once the concrete has set hard you can start fitting the rails.<br />

Check each of the posts and make sure they are firm in the ground. If there is<br />

any movement, brace the post with temporary bracing. This will hold it steady<br />

until the rails are fixed. The posts can now be trimmed <strong>to</strong> the post height.<br />

1. Fix the stringline <strong>to</strong> both of the end posts at the post height, and mark<br />

this height on all posts. On a level site use a square. On a sloping site the<br />

rails won’t be at right angles <strong>to</strong> the posts. In that case follow the stringline.<br />

Before taking the stringline down, check the height again.<br />

2. Once you have checked that the heights are marked correctly on all posts<br />

trim the posts at height marks.<br />

There are different ways of fixing the rails <strong>to</strong> the fence posts and the<br />

method you use will depend on the type of fence you are building. The<br />

major difference between rail fixing methods is:<br />

• the rails are fixed <strong>to</strong> the outside of the posts,<br />

• the rails are fixed between the posts,<br />

• or, the rails are checked in <strong>to</strong> the posts.<br />

In this method the rails run from the centre of one post <strong>to</strong> the centre of the next.<br />

If the timber you are using is long enough, you can run the rails across three<br />

posts. The procedure is similar whether you are fixing <strong>to</strong> the face of the post or<br />

the <strong>to</strong>p of the post (see Illustrations 5 & 6).<br />

1. On a level site, trim one end of the first rail square. On a sloping site support<br />

the rail in the correct position against the posts and mark the cutting angle.<br />

Transfer that angle <strong>to</strong> a piece of scrap timber and use it <strong>to</strong> ensure all cuts<br />

are the same.<br />

Illustration 6<br />

Rails fixed<br />

<strong>to</strong> face of post<br />

Rails fixed<br />

<strong>to</strong> face of post<br />

Illustration 5: Rails fixed outside post<br />

Centre <strong>to</strong> Centre<br />

Centre <strong>to</strong> Centre<br />

Rails fixed on<br />

<strong>to</strong>p of post<br />

Rails fixed on<br />

<strong>to</strong>p of post<br />

2. Fix a block <strong>to</strong> the first post <strong>to</strong> support the rail at the correct fixing height<br />

(see Illustrations 7 & 8). The rail should be held flush with the leading edge<br />

of the first post and the rail then marked at the centre of the joining post.<br />

3. Cut the rail <strong>to</strong> that mark and then nail in<strong>to</strong> the correct position.<br />

4. Remove the supporting block from the first post, and repeat the whole<br />

process for the rest of the rails.<br />

Illustration 7: Packer <strong>to</strong> support fence rail<br />

Illustration 8<br />

Measure distance<br />

between posts<br />

Position of fence rail<br />

In this method the rails run between the posts. The procedure is similar whether<br />

you are fixing the rails <strong>to</strong> be flush with the face, or setback from the face<br />

(see Illustration 9).<br />

Rails fixed flush<br />

with face<br />

Illustration 9: Rails fixed between post<br />

Rails fixed back<br />

from face<br />

1. On a level site, trim one end of the first rail square. On a sloping site<br />

support the rail in the correct position against the posts and mark the<br />

cutting angle.<br />

Transfer that angle <strong>to</strong> a piece of scrap timber and use it <strong>to</strong> ensure all cuts<br />

are the same.<br />

2. Lay the rail on the ground against the base of the first post and mark it<br />

against the edge of the next post in the line (see Illustration 10).<br />

Illustration 10: Marking length of rail between posts<br />

3. Cut the rail <strong>to</strong> that mark.<br />

4. Nail a supporting block <strong>to</strong> each post and place the rail in its correct position.<br />

5. Skew nail the rail <strong>to</strong> the post using at least 4 nails.<br />

6. Remove the supporting block from the first post and repeat the process for<br />

the rest of the rails.<br />

Edgelock Polycarbonate Roofing<br />

Edgelock is a simple flat roof system, offering a solution for<br />

domestic and residential applications.<br />

• Easy <strong>to</strong> install<br />

• Low maintenance<br />

• Very durable giving <strong>your</strong> next DIY project a unique look<br />

without the cost attached<br />

• Suitable for pergolas, sunrooms, porches, carports and<br />

can also be used as fencing<br />

• Available in 2.4, 3 & 3.6M lengths<br />

• Available in 300 or 600mm widths<br />

TRANSLUCENT<br />

ROOFING<br />

PERGOLAS<br />

Pergolas are a useful and attractive<br />

addition <strong>to</strong> any garden setting. They<br />

offer a focus and architectural form in<br />

a flat garden. They can also provide<br />

shelter over a doorway or can be<br />

used as gazebo when a roof in clear<br />

corrugated material is added.<br />

FIXING THE RAILS<br />

INSTRUCTIONS<br />

INSTRUCTIONS<br />

Twice the rail<br />

thickness<br />

INSTRUCTIONS<br />

BETWEEN POST FIXING<br />

INSTRUCTIONS / TIMBER SELECTION GUIDE<br />

INSTALLING<br />

POSTS<br />

& RAILS<br />

YOUR COMPLETE HOW TO GUIDE<br />

OUTSIDE POST FIXING &<br />

CHECKED IN FIXING<br />

a<br />

Sunlite PVC Roofing<br />

Sunlite is a light blue, easy<br />

<strong>to</strong> install, low cost corrugated<br />

sheet.<br />

• 690mm wide<br />

• Available in 1.8, 2.4,<br />

3 & 3.6M lengths<br />

• Ideal for pergolas<br />

and carports<br />

Suntuf Polycarbonate<br />

Roofing<br />

As the name suggests, Suntuf<br />

is a <strong>to</strong>ugh polycarbonate<br />

product designed <strong>to</strong> offer<br />

year-round protection from<br />

the harsh New Zealand<br />

environment.<br />

• 860mm wide<br />

• Available in various lengths<br />

from 1.8 – 6M<br />

• Ideal for roofing, external<br />

cladding, veranda covers<br />

and carports<br />

Tufclad Ultra<br />

Polycarbonate Roofing<br />

Tufclad Ultra is a cost<br />

effective polycarbonate sheet<br />

that offers all-weather<br />

protection.<br />

• Excellent UV ray resistance<br />

(up <strong>to</strong> 99.9%)<br />

• Super strong and durable<br />

• Suitable for pergolas,<br />

sunrooms, porches<br />

and carports<br />

Clearvue Polycarbonate<br />

Roofing<br />

Clearvue is a high quality<br />

product with the fantastic<br />

seamless, flat look of glass.<br />

• Very high impact<br />

resistance<br />

• Sleek modern look<br />

• Easy installation<br />

• Very adaptable<br />

• High UV protection<br />

• Solid, flat sheeting<br />

HOW TO GUIDES<br />

For instructions on how <strong>to</strong> build<br />

<strong>your</strong> pergola or install <strong>your</strong> posts<br />

and rails, see our How To Guides<br />

available in-s<strong>to</strong>re or online at<br />

www.placemakers.co.nz<br />

PROJECT CHECKLIST<br />

Materials<br />

• Nails • Pegs<br />

• H3.2 bearers • H3.2 rafters<br />

• Concrete <strong>to</strong> set the posts<br />

• H5 treated post<br />

• Timber preservative<br />

Tools<br />

• Electric drill • Shovel • Hammer<br />

• Sand paper • G or F clamps<br />

• Stringline • Old paintbrush<br />

• Spirit level • Adjustable spanner<br />

• Spade or post hole borer<br />

• Hand saw or circular saw<br />

• Tape, square and pencil<br />

• Jigsaw if cutting curves on<br />

ends or rafters (optional)<br />

21

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