your complete guide to outstanding outdoor areas - PlaceMakers

• Is it spaced correctly Measure from reference point multiplying the
spacing by the number of gaps.
• Does it follow the fenceline Use packers against both stringlines.
• Is it tall enough Measure from the stringline to the top of the post.
• Is it vertical Check the side of each post with a spirit level.
5. With posts braced in position, fill the holes with concrete as with end posts.
Recheck as in Step 4 above and if necessary adjust and rebrace.
6. Leave 7 days for the concrete to harden. If you also intend to pour a mowing
strip along the fenceline, do it now.
Once the concrete has set hard you can start fitting the rails.
Check each of the posts and make sure they are firm in the ground. If there is
any movement, brace the post with temporary bracing. This will hold it steady
until the rails are fixed. The posts can now be trimmed to the post height.
1. Fix the stringline to both of the end posts at the post height, and mark
this height on all posts. On a level site use a square. On a sloping site the
rails won’t be at right angles to the posts. In that case follow the stringline.
Before taking the stringline down, check the height again.
2. Once you have checked that the heights are marked correctly on all posts
trim the posts at height marks.
There are different ways of fixing the rails to the fence posts and the
method you use will depend on the type of fence you are building. The
major difference between rail fixing methods is:
• the rails are fixed to the outside of the posts,
• the rails are fixed between the posts,
• or, the rails are checked in to the posts.
In this method the rails run from the centre of one post to the centre of the next.
If the timber you are using is long enough, you can run the rails across three
posts. The procedure is similar whether you are fixing to the face of the post or
the top of the post (see Illustrations 5 & 6).
1. On a level site, trim one end of the first rail square. On a sloping site support
the rail in the correct position against the posts and mark the cutting angle.
Transfer that angle to a piece of scrap timber and use it to ensure all cuts
are the same.
Illustration 6
Rails fixed
to face of post
Rails fixed
to face of post
Illustration 5: Rails fixed outside post
Centre to Centre
Centre to Centre
Rails fixed on
top of post
Rails fixed on
top of post
2. Fix a block to the first post to support the rail at the correct fixing height
(see Illustrations 7 & 8). The rail should be held flush with the leading edge
of the first post and the rail then marked at the centre of the joining post.
3. Cut the rail to that mark and then nail into the correct position.
4. Remove the supporting block from the first post, and repeat the whole
process for the rest of the rails.
Illustration 7: Packer to support fence rail
Illustration 8
Measure distance
between posts
Position of fence rail
In this method the rails run between the posts. The procedure is similar whether
you are fixing the rails to be flush with the face, or setback from the face
(see Illustration 9).
Rails fixed flush
with face
Illustration 9: Rails fixed between post
Rails fixed back
from face
1. On a level site, trim one end of the first rail square. On a sloping site
support the rail in the correct position against the posts and mark the
cutting angle.
Transfer that angle to a piece of scrap timber and use it to ensure all cuts
are the same.
2. Lay the rail on the ground against the base of the first post and mark it
against the edge of the next post in the line (see Illustration 10).
Illustration 10: Marking length of rail between posts
3. Cut the rail to that mark.
4. Nail a supporting block to each post and place the rail in its correct position.
5. Skew nail the rail to the post using at least 4 nails.
6. Remove the supporting block from the first post and repeat the process for
the rest of the rails.
Edgelock Polycarbonate Roofing
Edgelock is a simple flat roof system, offering a solution for
domestic and residential applications.
• Easy to install
• Low maintenance
• Very durable giving your next DIY project a unique look
without the cost attached
• Suitable for pergolas, sunrooms, porches, carports and
can also be used as fencing
• Available in 2.4, 3 & 3.6M lengths
• Available in 300 or 600mm widths
TRANSLUCENT
ROOFING
PERGOLAS
Pergolas are a useful and attractive
addition to any garden setting. They
offer a focus and architectural form in
a flat garden. They can also provide
shelter over a doorway or can be
used as gazebo when a roof in clear
corrugated material is added.
FIXING THE RAILS
INSTRUCTIONS
INSTRUCTIONS
Twice the rail
thickness
INSTRUCTIONS
BETWEEN POST FIXING
INSTRUCTIONS / TIMBER SELECTION GUIDE
INSTALLING
POSTS
& RAILS
YOUR COMPLETE HOW TO GUIDE
OUTSIDE POST FIXING &
CHECKED IN FIXING
a
Sunlite PVC Roofing
Sunlite is a light blue, easy
to install, low cost corrugated
sheet.
• 690mm wide
• Available in 1.8, 2.4,
3 & 3.6M lengths
• Ideal for pergolas
and carports
Suntuf Polycarbonate
Roofing
As the name suggests, Suntuf
is a tough polycarbonate
product designed to offer
year-round protection from
the harsh New Zealand
environment.
• 860mm wide
• Available in various lengths
from 1.8 – 6M
• Ideal for roofing, external
cladding, veranda covers
and carports
Tufclad Ultra
Polycarbonate Roofing
Tufclad Ultra is a cost
effective polycarbonate sheet
that offers all-weather
protection.
• Excellent UV ray resistance
(up to 99.9%)
• Super strong and durable
• Suitable for pergolas,
sunrooms, porches
and carports
Clearvue Polycarbonate
Roofing
Clearvue is a high quality
product with the fantastic
seamless, flat look of glass.
• Very high impact
resistance
• Sleek modern look
• Easy installation
• Very adaptable
• High UV protection
• Solid, flat sheeting
HOW TO GUIDES
For instructions on how to build
your pergola or install your posts
and rails, see our How To Guides
available in-store or online at
www.placemakers.co.nz
PROJECT CHECKLIST
Materials
• Nails • Pegs
• H3.2 bearers • H3.2 rafters
• Concrete to set the posts
• H5 treated post
• Timber preservative
Tools
• Electric drill • Shovel • Hammer
• Sand paper • G or F clamps
• Stringline • Old paintbrush
• Spirit level • Adjustable spanner
• Spade or post hole borer
• Hand saw or circular saw
• Tape, square and pencil
• Jigsaw if cutting curves on
ends or rafters (optional)
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