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DECKING NATURAL LIVING Wood from sustainably managed forests is the ultimate sustainable building material. As a tree grows, it removes and stores carbon dioxide from the air, helping reduce carbon levels in the atmosphere. Harvesting and using the timber locks away carbon and prevents its release back into the atmosphere. Replanting the forests continues the cycle of removal and storage. PlaceMakers stocks radiata pine timber products from sawmills which source their logs from New Zealand’s sustainably managed forests. PlaceMakers also offers hardwood decking options from legally verified sources including Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Please see our website, www.placemakers.co.nz for more details. Deck Bearers • H4 or H5 treated radiata • Planer gauge or rough sawn finish • SG8 wet graded timber • Available in 100 x 75mm, 100 x 100mm or 150 x 50mm Deck Joist • H3.2 treated radiata • Planer gauge or rough sawn finish • SG8 wet graded timber • Available in 150 x 50mm or 200 x 50mm FOREST STEWARDSHIP COUNCIL Dricon HandiCrete ® • Quality concrete with a super smooth finish • Formulated to reach a target strength of 20MPa in 28 days • Ideal for paths, foundations, mowing strips, letter boxes and block fill Deck Balustrades • H3.2 treated radiata • Planer gauge or rough sawn finish • No.1 or SG8 wet graded timber • Available in 50 x 40mm or 50 x 50mm FSC is an independent, non-governmental, not for profit organisation established to promote the responsible management of the world’s forests. It is represented in more than 50 countries. FSC’s certification system is recognised internationally, and when you buy timber with the FSC label, you know you’re making a responsible choice. Merch Decking NZ grown radiata pine. Standard decking where cost is more important than appearance. Contains some knots and may be liable to distortion. • Graded best face to grip tread profile • H3.2 treated radiata • Available in 100 x 25mm or 100 x 40mm Premium Decking NZ grown radiata pine. Quality product with minimal defects, specially selected for a high-class fi n i s h . • Graded best face to grip tread profile • H3.2 treated radiata • Available in 100 x 25mm or 100 x 40mm Verda Prefinished Decking NZ grown radiata pine. Superior to standard radiata, clear grade and knot-free. Graded to smooth face. Non-bleeding/leaching. • TanE treatment – 25 year guarantee against rot and insect attack* • Available in 100 x 25mm or 100 x 40mm • Available colours Honey Gold, Natural Amber and Antique Grey Available colours * Subject to conditions – see guarantee on www.verda.co.nz for more details 4 Whilst every care has been taken to obtain an accurate representation, the colours shown here are subject to the limitations of the colour reproduction process. Visit your nearest PlaceMakers to view samples prior to ordering.
“The most renewable natural resource” for more information visit our website www.nzwood.co.nz Please Note: Whilst the advice and recommendations contained in this brochure have been produced with proper care, they are offered only with the objective of assisting those interested in home improvement projects and PlaceMakers does not accept responsibility for the advice, recommendations, etc. contained herein. Updated: July 2008 (BSPG110116) www.placemakers.co.nz 0800 KNOW HOW (0800 566 946) The piles in this example deck are 125 x 125mm H5 radiata pine piles, spaced at a maximum of 1200mm in each direction. The front row of piles is also set back from the front edge of the deck to allow it to overhang the piles and bearers. This provides a neater finish to the front of the deck, but the construction details used and the ‘best’ way are ultimately a personal preference. The piles themselves can also continue up through the deck to support a handrail or overhead pergola. A pergola may require a building consent. The construction methods used at this stage must be modified to suit any of these alternatives. (See Illustration 3). Illustration 3 If you are running the piles up through the deck to form part of the handrail, or support an overhead pergola, fix the bearer by bolting it in place Nail a small wooden block to the pile or use a G Clamp to support the bearer in the correct position while you drill the hole. Remember to treat the holes with a timber preservative. If you are running the piles up through the deck to form part of the handrail, or to support an overhead pergola, fix the bearer by bolting it in place. Nail a small wooden block to the pile or use a G Clamp to support the bearer in the correct position while you drill the hole. Remember to treat the holes with a timber preservative. The concrete pads need to be at least 300mm in diameter or 300 x 300mm square and, for a low deck, 300mm deep. After you’ve dug the holes, insert the piles to check there will be at least 100mm of concrete all around each pile, including underneath. You have a choice about when to set the piles in concrete. Option 1 Cover the bottom of the hole with 100mm of concrete. Place the pile back in the hole with the cut end up. Pour a further 200mm of concrete and position the pile. Brace the pile in the correct position and leave to set for at least 24 hours. Then trim the piles to height and continue building the deck on top. This option requires you set the posts exactly in place before the bearers are there to give you a line to work to. Option 2 Hang the piles 100mm above the bottom of the holes, and brace them in all directions very firmly. Trim the piles to height, and build and fix your deck framing on top, supporting it with props of timber. Illustration 4: Bearers and Piles When the framing (bearers and joists) is fitted and fixed together to the piles, check that everything is straight, level and square, and then pour concrete into the holes. (Leave your concrete slightly lower than the top of the hole to allow lawn or topsoil to cover it up.) When the concrete has set, nail down the decking, removing the temporary props at any stage. An alternative to setting the piles in concrete is using a Bowmac post bracket. These require less concrete, but provide little lateral bracing compared with posts set in concrete. (See Illustration 5). Trimming hint: Mark the piles on three sides before cutting. With Bowmac Illustration 5: Post Setting Detail Ledger With post embedded The piles are trimmed off to the underside of the bearers. (See Illustration 4 & 5). The ledger on the wall is actually a bearer. Level a stringline from under that, or a straight bearer held against it, to give you the trim-off height of the piles. Mark the cut around three sides of the pile with your square before cutting. This deck uses two 100 x 50mm nailed together as bearers. Nail at 300mm centres from opposite faces. Fix to each pile with two nails skewed (angle nailed) from each face. The piles at each end should also be connected to the bearer with a stainless steel ‘Nailon’ plate on each face. SPACING BETWEEN PILES ALONG THE BEARER Maximum span of joist Bearer size 1.45m 100 x 75mm 2.00m 100 x 100mm or two 100 x 50mm 3.20m 125 x 100mm or two 125 x 50mm 4.65m 150 x 100 or two 150 x 50mm Fitting the Joists You can see from Illustration 6 that the deck cantilevers over the last bearer to produce an overhanging deck. Illustration 6: Cantilevered Deck Construction The joists should be spaced at maximum centres according to the table below. The spacing depends on the thickness of decking used. JOIST SELECTION CHART Joist size: mm Maximum Span of Joists Joist Spacings 400mm 450mm 600mm 100 x 50 1.45m 1.40m 1.25m 125 x 50 1.85m 1.80m 1.60m 150 x 50 2.60m 2.40m 2.00m 200 x 50 3.50m 3.35m 2.85m 250 x 50 4.40m 4.25m 3.60m 300 x 50 5.20m 5.05m 4.30m When you rest each joist on the ledger on the side of the house, leave a 10mm gap between the end of each joist and the wall. That stops moisture becoming trapped and causing decay. Fix each joist to every bearer with two nails through each face at every crossing. Let the end of each joist overlap your profile strings. Trim them all at once later, using the line and a square to accurately mark each joist. Fit a boundary joist to the ends of the main joists to give the edge of your deck a neat finish. Decking Gap between joist and wall Gap between decking and wall 150mm Step Decking height Joist Deck joist depth Ledger Packer Illustration 7 DECKING MATERIAL SELECTION CHART Joist Spacing Decking Material 400mm 25mm thick Radiata Timber 450mm 25mm thick imported Hardwood 600mm 40mm thick Radiata Timber Start laying timber decking from the house in a full length board. Make sure that, like the joists, there’s a gap left between the first board and the wall. If joins are necessary they should be made on the joists and staggered at random between rows. An overhang of 10mm to 20mm at each end is usually preferred. The first two boards should be cut to this size before fixing with galvanized nails: • 60mm Galvanized Nails for 19mm decking • 75mm Galvanized Nails for 30mm decking. Check the boards are true and in a straight line as you fix them. Also check the distance to the outside bearer remains constant. Make up a spacer of 3mm to 5mm to ensure an even gap. Move it along as you nail. Small variations can be adjusted slightly as each board is fixed. Don’t cut the rest of the decking to length (apart from the first two). Let them overhang the end joists. Then trim them all off together by nailing a board to the deck as a guide for your circular saw. Kitset steps of various lengths are available from PlaceMakers. These are easily fitted to your deck. If the deck gives access to a building the steps must comply with the New Zealand Building Code Access requirements. There are various types of interior stains available, oilbased pigmented, solvent-based dye stain and waterbased dye stains. They all allow the grain of the timber to show through. Stains are designed to be applied to raw or new timber only and all interior stains must be over coated with a clear finish to protect the colour from rubbing off due to excess handling. Clear finishes are available in water-based, oil-based and solvent-based formulations. Most are only suitable for interior surfaces; to protect, enhance and highlight the timber being coated. Oil-based clears will give timber a ‘golden’ look whereas water-based preparations will keep the timber looking natural without discolouration. Prior to staining/clear coating interior timbers, it is essential that all timber is clean, dry and free from contamination. The right preparation can greatly enhance the natural grains on the timber surface and while sanding may be tedious it is an important step in preparing the surface. Timber should be sanded smooth to allow the penetration of the stain/clear coating. If this is not carried out the product will not penetrate the timber surface creating adhesion problems. Sand out any marks, including planer ripples. Sand with the grain, starting with coarse sandpaper and working up to fine. Overfill any cracks or holes with appropriate filler then sand back levelling with the surrounding timber. Wood dust from sanding will cause problems if it is not removed properly. Ensure that the surface has been properly cleaned and free of contaminants. Always check the colour of the stain prior to commencement to see if the colour is correct as it is difficult to remove the stain from the timber fibres once staining has been completed. Apply one coat of stain with a rag, following the grain of Please Note: Whilst the advice the and timber. recommendations contained in this brochure have been produced with proper care, they are offered only with the objective of assisting Oil-based those interested pigmented in home stains improvement projects and PlaceMakers Oil-based does not pigmented accept stains responsibility are designed for the for advice, use on light timbers such as Pine, recommendations, Ash etc. and contained Tawa. They herein. are applied in a circular motion on larger areas or following Updated: July 2008 the grain (BSPG110116) on smaller areas. Avoid applying too much stain as this can lead to excess film build and premature failure. Solvent-based dye stains Solvent-based dye stains are designed for harder exotic timbers. They penetrate and dye the fibres of the timber and give crisp colours allowing the natural beauty of the timber grain to show through. Water-based gel stains Water-based gel stains tend to be the easiest to use. They can be applied direct to vertical surfaces without the stain running down the surface, are quicker drying, low odour, have good clarity and are suitable for all timber types. All rags used for staining must be disposed of correctly by soaking in water to neutralise any oil/solvent content present. If this is not carried out the rags can become combustible and ignite, causing fires. Polyurethane clear coatings are available in oil-based, water-based and moisture cured finishes. They are normally available in gloss, satin and matt finishes. A clear coat will enhance and protect the natural beauty and colour of the timber and protect any stained surface from excess wear. Gloss products are preferred for floors as the lower gloss levels may polish up in high traffic areas. When clear coating Rimu, Totara and Matai timbers, avoid using oil-based finishes as these can react with the oils in the timber causing drying problems. Water-based is recommended for these timbers as a first coat. Surfaces must be in good, clean, dry condition, free from wax, grease and dust prior to clear coating. Sanding the surface smooth to remove any defects or damaged areas will give you a better look. Remember that clear coating over such defects will highlight them making them stand out. If the coating is left longer than 48 hours, a light sanding is required between coats to aid adhesion. Polyurethanes can be applied by brush or speed brush. Do not apply too much at once, keep an even coating and wet edge. This will enable you to continue blending the coating in on larger areas. When coating tongue and groove, complete each board from one end to the other, this will help to maintain an even coating. The use of sanding sealer is recommended prior to clear coating; this helps seal porous timber and gives a greater film build on finishing coats. A minimum of 2 coats is recommended with a light sanding between coats to give you a smoother finish. For an exceptionally hard-wearing finish on floors, bench tops, laboratory and kitchen benches, moisture cured polyurethane is recommended. It is a single pack clear coating which cures by absorbing water from the atmosphere. All polyurethanes start as a gloss finish. A flattening agent is added to lower the gloss level, therefore it is very important that satin and matt finishes are stirred well with a flat stick to bind the agent and give a uniform gloss level. YOUR COMPLETE KNOW HOW GUIDE Deck piles • H5 treated radiata • 125 x 125mm available in various lengths from 600mm to 3.6M SPACING THE PILES DIGGING THE HOLES PILES & BEARERS PILES & BEARERS FIXING THE BEARERS JOISTS & DECKING CONCRETING THE PILES Deck Railings TRIMMING THE PILES (If using option 1) • H3.2 treated radiata • Planer gauge or rough sawn finish • No.1 or SG8 wet graded timber • Available in 75 x 50mm or 100 x 50mm PILES & BEARERS / JOISTS & DECKING FITTING THE DECKING STEPS JOISTS & DECKING Interior Stains & Clears BUILDING A TIMBER DECK YOUR COMPLETE HOW TO GUIDE Preparation Staining CHOOSING YOUR DECKING TIMBER Clear Coating YOUR COMPLETE HOW TO GUIDE HOW TO GUIDES PUTTING UP A TIMBER STAINS AND CLEARS For help choosing your decking timber and instructions on how to build and stain your deck see these how to guides, available in-store or online at www.placemakers.co.nz KNOW HOW CARD SPEND * $ 250 GET A $ 25 *Terms and conditions apply. BONUS VOUCHER Don’t forget to use your Know How Card with every purchase. Stair Stringers • H4 treated radiata • 1-15 step sizes available *Steps purchased separately to preferred width Metalex Timber Preservative Treat all timber cut ends to protect against rotting and mildew growth. • Water resistant finish • Protects fibrous substrates • Easy to apply • Available in clear or green PROJECT CHECK LIST Materials • Timber pegs • Decking • Joists • Bearers • Stringers • Nails • Concrete • Fixings and brackets • Timber Preservative Tools • Stringline • Tape measure • Spirit level • Circular saw • Hammer • Hand saw • Electric drill • Set square Makita 1050W 185mm Circular Saw 5030425 Vitex Decking A medium-density, naturally stable and durable hardwood harvested as “community production” from the Solomon Islands, it silvers off to a fine even finish. • Available in 100 x 25mm or 150 x 25mm Purple Heart Decking Purple Heart hardwood is superior quality decking. It provides class 1 durability for decking, with minimal leaching/bleeding. • Available in 100 x 25mm or 150 x 25mm Massa Decking Sustainably harvested heavy hardwood, kiln-dried, stable and extremely strong with a Class 1 durability rating. A proven performer for decking, fl ooring beams and exterior joinery. Non-bleeding/leaching. • Available in 100 x 25mm or 150 x 25mm Composite Decking – Hybrideck This new generation composite decking is extremely stylish, looks and feels like timber. Made from recycled wood and plastic materials, it won’t warp, crack or splinter. • Available in finished sizes of 130 x 19mm or 140 x 25mm Available colours All decking sizes quoted are nominal. FSC timber only available from selected stores. 5
Page 1 and 2: LIVING LANDSCAPES YOUR COMPLETE GUI
Page 3: YOUR LIVING OUTDOORS CONTENTS 4 - 5
Page 7 and 8: suB GraDe testiNG Sub-grade Weak mo
Page 9 and 10: suB GraDe testiNG Sub-grade Weak mo
Page 11 and 12: Drainage Coil Designed for the econ
Page 13 and 14: Grass Paver per m 2 =6 Note; Availa
Page 15 and 16: Left unpainted or unstained, your n
Page 17 and 18: Dricon RapidSet TM • Quality conc
Page 19 and 20: Dricon RapidSet TM • Quality conc
Page 21 and 22: • Is it spaced correctly Measure
Page 23 and 24: Sand Commonly used as a base undern
Page 25 and 26: H 3 . 2 TIMBER SELECTION GUIDE For
Page 28: KNOW HOW CARD SPEND * $ 250 GET A $

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