your complete guide to outstanding outdoor areas - PlaceMakers

“The most renewable natural resource” for more information visit our
website www.nzwood.co.nz
Please Note:
Whilst the advice and recommendations contained in this brochure
have been produced with proper care, they are offered only with the
objective of assisting those interested in home improvement projects
and PlaceMakers does not accept responsibility for the advice,
recommendations, etc. contained herein.
Updated: July 2008 (BSPG110116)
www.placemakers.co.nz
0800 KNOW HOW (0800 566 946)
The piles in this example deck are 125 x 125mm H5 radiata pine piles, spaced at
a maximum of 1200mm in each direction. The front row of piles is also set back
from the front edge of the deck to allow it to overhang the piles and bearers.
This provides a neater finish to the front of the deck, but the construction
details used and the ‘best’ way are ultimately a personal preference. The piles
themselves can also continue up through the deck to support a handrail or
overhead pergola. A pergola may require a building consent. The construction
methods used at this stage must be modified to suit any of these alternatives.
(See Illustration 3).
Illustration 3
If you are running the piles up
through the deck to form part of
the handrail, or support an
overhead pergola, fix the bearer
by bolting it in place
Nail a small wooden block to the
pile or use a G Clamp to support
the bearer in the correct position
while you drill the hole. Remember
to treat the holes with a timber
preservative.
If you are running the piles up through the deck to form part of the handrail,
or to support an overhead pergola, fix the bearer by bolting it in place. Nail a
small wooden block to the pile or use a G Clamp to support the bearer in the
correct position while you drill the hole. Remember to treat the holes with a
timber preservative.
The concrete pads need to be at least 300mm in diameter or 300 x 300mm
square and, for a low deck, 300mm deep. After you’ve dug the holes, insert the
piles to check there will be at least 100mm of concrete all around each pile,
including underneath.
You have a choice about when to set the piles in concrete.
Option 1
Cover the bottom of the hole with 100mm of concrete. Place the pile back in the
hole with the cut end up. Pour a further 200mm of concrete and position the
pile. Brace the pile in the correct position and leave to set for at least 24 hours.
Then trim the piles to height and continue building the deck on top. This option
requires you set the posts exactly in place before the bearers are there to give
you a line to work to.
Option 2
Hang the piles 100mm above the bottom of the holes, and brace them in
all directions very firmly. Trim the piles to height, and build and fix your deck
framing on top, supporting it with props of timber.
Illustration 4: Bearers and Piles
When the framing (bearers and joists) is fitted and fixed together to the piles,
check that everything is straight, level and square, and then pour concrete into
the holes.
(Leave your concrete slightly lower than the top of the hole to allow lawn or
topsoil to cover it up.)
When the concrete has set, nail down the decking, removing the temporary
props at any stage.
An alternative to setting the piles in concrete is using a Bowmac post bracket.
These require less concrete, but provide little lateral bracing compared with
posts set in concrete. (See Illustration 5).
Trimming hint:
Mark the piles on three
sides before cutting.
With Bowmac
Illustration 5: Post Setting Detail
Ledger
With post
embedded
The piles are trimmed off to the underside of the bearers. (See Illustration 4 & 5).
The ledger on the wall is actually a bearer. Level a stringline from under that, or
a straight bearer held against it, to give you the trim-off height of the piles. Mark
the cut around three sides of the pile with your square before cutting.
This deck uses two 100 x 50mm nailed together as bearers. Nail at 300mm
centres from opposite faces. Fix to each pile with two nails skewed (angle nailed)
from each face. The piles at each end should also be connected to the bearer with
a stainless steel ‘Nailon’ plate on each face.
SPACING BETWEEN PILES ALONG THE BEARER
Maximum span of joist
Bearer size
1.45m 100 x 75mm
2.00m 100 x 100mm or two 100 x 50mm
3.20m 125 x 100mm or two 125 x 50mm
4.65m 150 x 100 or two 150 x 50mm
Fitting the Joists
You can see from Illustration 6 that the deck cantilevers over the last bearer to
produce an overhanging deck.
Illustration 6: Cantilevered Deck Construction
The joists should be spaced at maximum centres according to the table below.
The spacing depends on the thickness of decking used.
JOIST SELECTION CHART
Joist size: mm Maximum Span of Joists
Joist Spacings
400mm
450mm 600mm
100 x 50 1.45m 1.40m 1.25m
125 x 50 1.85m 1.80m 1.60m
150 x 50 2.60m 2.40m 2.00m
200 x 50 3.50m 3.35m 2.85m
250 x 50 4.40m 4.25m 3.60m
300 x 50 5.20m 5.05m 4.30m
When you rest each joist on the ledger on the side of the house, leave a 10mm
gap between the end of each joist and the wall. That stops moisture becoming
trapped and causing decay. Fix each joist to every bearer with two nails through
each face at every crossing. Let the end of each joist overlap your profile strings.
Trim them all at once later, using the line and a square to accurately mark each
joist. Fit a boundary joist to the ends of the main joists to give the edge of your
deck a neat finish.
Decking
Gap between
joist and wall
Gap between
decking and wall
150mm Step
Decking height
Joist
Deck joist depth
Ledger
Packer
Illustration 7
DECKING MATERIAL SELECTION CHART
Joist Spacing
Decking Material
400mm
25mm thick Radiata Timber
450mm
25mm thick imported Hardwood
600mm
40mm thick Radiata Timber
Start laying timber decking from the house in a full length board. Make sure that,
like the joists, there’s a gap left between the first board and the wall. If joins are
necessary they should be made on the joists and staggered at random between
rows. An overhang of 10mm to 20mm at each end is usually preferred. The first
two boards should be cut to this size before fixing with galvanized nails: • 60mm
Galvanized Nails for 19mm decking • 75mm Galvanized Nails for 30mm decking.
Check the boards are true and in a straight line as you fix them. Also check the
distance to the outside bearer remains constant. Make up a spacer of 3mm to
5mm to ensure an even gap. Move it along as you nail. Small variations can be
adjusted slightly as each board is fixed. Don’t cut the rest of the decking to length
(apart from the first two). Let them overhang the end joists. Then trim them all off
together by nailing a board to the deck as a guide for your circular saw.
Kitset steps of various lengths are available from PlaceMakers. These are
easily fitted to your deck. If the deck gives access to a building the steps must
comply with the New Zealand Building Code Access requirements.
There are various types of interior stains available, oilbased
pigmented, solvent-based dye stain and waterbased
dye stains. They all allow the grain of the timber to
show through. Stains are designed to be applied to raw or
new timber only and all interior stains must be over coated
with a clear finish to protect the colour from rubbing off
due to excess handling.
Clear finishes are available in water-based, oil-based and solvent-based
formulations. Most are only suitable for interior surfaces; to protect, enhance and
highlight the timber being coated.
Oil-based clears will give timber a ‘golden’ look whereas water-based preparations
will keep the timber looking natural without discolouration.
Prior to staining/clear coating interior timbers, it is essential
that all timber is clean, dry and free from contamination.
The right preparation can greatly enhance the natural grains on the timber surface
and while sanding may be tedious it is an important step in preparing the surface.
Timber should be sanded smooth to allow the penetration of the stain/clear
coating. If this is not carried out the product will not penetrate the timber surface
creating adhesion problems. Sand out any marks, including planer ripples. Sand
with the grain, starting with coarse sandpaper and working up to fine. Overfill any
cracks or holes with appropriate filler then sand back levelling with the surrounding
timber. Wood dust from sanding will cause problems if it is not removed properly.
Ensure that the surface has been properly cleaned and free of contaminants.
Always check the colour of the stain prior to commencement to see if the colour
is correct as it is difficult to remove the stain from the timber fibres once staining
has been completed.
Apply one coat of stain with a rag, following the grain of
Please Note:
Whilst the advice the and timber. recommendations contained in this brochure
have been produced with proper care, they are offered only with the
objective of assisting Oil-based those interested pigmented in home stains improvement projects
and PlaceMakers Oil-based does not pigmented accept stains responsibility are designed for the for advice, use on light timbers such as Pine,
recommendations, Ash etc. and contained Tawa. They herein. are applied in a circular motion on larger areas or following
Updated: July 2008 the grain (BSPG110116) on smaller areas. Avoid applying too much stain as this can lead to
excess film build and premature failure.
Solvent-based dye stains
Solvent-based dye stains are designed for harder exotic timbers. They penetrate
and dye the fibres of the timber and give crisp colours allowing the natural beauty
of the timber grain to show through.
Water-based gel stains
Water-based gel stains tend to be the easiest to use. They can be applied direct to
vertical surfaces without the stain running down the surface, are quicker drying,
low odour, have good clarity and are suitable for all timber types.
All rags used for staining must be disposed of correctly by soaking in water to
neutralise any oil/solvent content present. If this is not carried out the rags can
become combustible and ignite, causing fires.
Polyurethane clear coatings are available in oil-based,
water-based and moisture cured finishes. They are normally
available in gloss, satin and matt finishes. A clear coat will
enhance and protect the natural beauty and colour of the
timber and protect any stained surface from excess wear.
Gloss products are preferred for floors as the lower gloss
levels may polish up in high traffic areas.
When clear coating Rimu, Totara and Matai timbers, avoid using oil-based
finishes as these can react with the oils in the timber causing drying problems.
Water-based is recommended for these timbers as a first coat.
Surfaces must be in good, clean, dry condition, free from wax, grease and dust
prior to clear coating. Sanding the surface smooth to remove any defects or
damaged areas will give you a better look. Remember that clear coating over
such defects will highlight them making them stand out. If the coating is left longer
than 48 hours, a light sanding is required between coats to aid adhesion.
Polyurethanes can be applied by brush or speed brush. Do not apply too much
at once, keep an even coating and wet edge. This will enable you to continue
blending the coating in on larger areas. When coating tongue and groove, complete
each board from one end to the other, this will help to maintain an even coating.
The use of sanding sealer is recommended prior to clear coating; this helps seal
porous timber and gives a greater film build on finishing coats.
A minimum of 2 coats is recommended with a light sanding between coats to give
you a smoother finish.
For an exceptionally hard-wearing finish on floors, bench tops, laboratory and
kitchen benches, moisture cured polyurethane is recommended. It is a single
pack clear coating which cures by absorbing water from the atmosphere.
All polyurethanes start as a gloss finish. A flattening agent is added to lower the
gloss level, therefore it is very important that satin and matt finishes are stirred
well with a flat stick to bind the agent and give a uniform gloss level.
YOUR COMPLETE KNOW HOW GUIDE
Deck piles
• H5 treated radiata
• 125 x 125mm available
in various lengths from
600mm to 3.6M
SPACING THE PILES
DIGGING THE HOLES
PILES & BEARERS
PILES & BEARERS
FIXING THE BEARERS
JOISTS & DECKING
CONCRETING THE PILES
Deck Railings
TRIMMING THE PILES (If using option 1)
• H3.2 treated radiata
• Planer gauge or rough sawn finish
• No.1 or SG8 wet graded timber
• Available in 75 x 50mm or 100 x 50mm
PILES & BEARERS / JOISTS & DECKING
FITTING THE DECKING
STEPS
JOISTS & DECKING
Interior Stains & Clears
BUILDING A
TIMBER
DECK
YOUR COMPLETE HOW TO GUIDE
Preparation
Staining
CHOOSING YOUR
DECKING
TIMBER
Clear Coating
YOUR COMPLETE HOW TO GUIDE
HOW TO GUIDES
PUTTING UP A
TIMBER
STAINS
AND CLEARS
For help choosing your decking timber
and instructions on how to build and
stain your deck see these how to
guides, available in-store or online at
www.placemakers.co.nz
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Stair Stringers
• H4 treated radiata
• 1-15 step sizes available
*Steps purchased
separately to
preferred width
Metalex Timber
Preservative
Treat all timber cut ends to
protect against rotting and
mildew growth.
• Water resistant finish
• Protects fibrous substrates
• Easy to apply
• Available in clear or green
PROJECT CHECK LIST
Materials
• Timber pegs • Decking • Joists
• Bearers • Stringers • Nails
• Concrete • Fixings and brackets
• Timber Preservative
Tools
• Stringline • Tape measure
• Spirit level • Circular saw
• Hammer • Hand saw
• Electric drill • Set square
Makita 1050W
185mm Circular
Saw 5030425
Vitex Decking
A medium-density, naturally stable
and durable hardwood harvested
as “community production” from the
Solomon Islands, it silvers off to a
fine even finish.
• Available in 100 x 25mm
or 150 x 25mm
Purple Heart Decking
Purple Heart hardwood is superior
quality decking. It provides class 1
durability for decking, with minimal
leaching/bleeding.
• Available in 100 x 25mm
or 150 x 25mm
Massa Decking
Sustainably harvested heavy
hardwood, kiln-dried, stable and
extremely strong with a Class 1
durability rating. A proven
performer for decking, fl ooring
beams and exterior joinery.
Non-bleeding/leaching.
• Available in 100 x 25mm
or 150 x 25mm
Composite Decking
– Hybrideck
This new generation composite
decking is extremely stylish, looks
and feels like timber. Made from
recycled wood and plastic materials,
it won’t warp, crack or splinter.
• Available in finished sizes of
130 x 19mm or 140 x 25mm
Available colours
All decking sizes quoted are nominal. FSC timber only available from selected stores.
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