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Export Marketing Survey: German Market for Textile and Clothing

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This Project is financed<br />

by the European Union<br />

Support to <strong>Export</strong> Promotion<br />

<strong>and</strong> Investment Attraction in<br />

the Republic of Moldova<br />

EuropeAid/126810/C/SER/MD<br />

This Project is implemented by a<br />

Consortium led by GFA<br />

Consulting Group<br />

Importing<br />

Manufacturers<br />

Agents<br />

(sales<br />

representatives)<br />

Importing<br />

Retailers<br />

rein<strong>for</strong>cing the wholesalers’ position<br />

• Have their own designers, apply various production <strong>and</strong> procurement<br />

strategies (see chapter on production)<br />

• Penetrate the retail business by opening own shops (vertical integration)<br />

• An independent intermediary between manufacturer <strong>and</strong> retail<br />

• In general the agent receives a commission from the manufacturer<br />

• More <strong>and</strong> more agents sell from stock, to meet short‐term dem<strong>and</strong>s. Stock<br />

<strong>for</strong>ming occurs on consignment basis<br />

• Agents mainly work with br<strong>and</strong>s<br />

Differing from the sales agent is the buying agent. The buying agent is<br />

located in supplying countries <strong>and</strong> acts on instructions of his client, mainly<br />

retail organisations<br />

• Bigger retail organizations import via their own buying / sourcing<br />

departments, <strong>and</strong> thus cut out intermediaries<br />

• They purchase finished products via direct imports (sourcing ready‐made<br />

products) from low‐wage countries <strong>and</strong> sourcing products made according<br />

to their own design (backward integration)<br />

There is the general trend of integration in the value chain, which means:<br />

• Forward Integration: more <strong>and</strong> more manufactures open their own br<strong>and</strong><br />

stores (mono‐label) in order to control the point of sale (higher margins,<br />

better knowledge of consumer dem<strong>and</strong>)<br />

• Backward Integration: retailers set‐up their own design departments <strong>and</strong><br />

source supply with own buying departments or agents<br />

4.2 Retail Structure <strong>and</strong> Trends<br />

The following diagram illustrates the development of the market share of the<br />

different actors in the <strong>German</strong> apparel retail:<br />

100%<br />

90%<br />

80%<br />

70%<br />

60%<br />

50%<br />

40%<br />

30%<br />

20%<br />

10%<br />

0%<br />

12%<br />

18% 19%<br />

39%<br />

34% 32%<br />

15% 14% 14%<br />

10% 9% 9%<br />

18% 16% 16%<br />

6% 9% 10%<br />

1999 2003 2005<br />

<strong>Textile</strong> discounters & non<br />

specialists<br />

Independent retailers<br />

Department stores<br />

Home shopping<br />

<strong>Clothing</strong> mutiples<br />

Verticals<br />

Remarkable is the growth of textile discounters <strong>and</strong> the non‐specialists<br />

(hypermarkets with strong non‐food component) as well as the rise of verticals<br />

(mono‐label stores). Also globally operating apparel retail chains like H&M or Zara<br />

have enlarged their market share. In turn the <strong>for</strong>merly strong independent<br />

10

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