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In<strong>la</strong>nd<br />
routes<br />
The route of<br />
the ventas and the bulls<br />
Church of Santa María.<br />
Medina Sidonia<br />
Ten kilometres in<strong>la</strong>nd rises<br />
Vejer <strong>de</strong> <strong>la</strong> Frontera, a<br />
veritable watchtower of Arab<br />
origin, from where one can see<br />
the entire coast from Tarifa to<br />
Cadiz. The triangle formed by<br />
Vejer, Medina Sidonia and<br />
Alcalá <strong>de</strong> los Gazules is known<br />
as the Route of the Ventas,<br />
because the area contains<br />
more country inns offering<br />
local cuisine than anywhere<br />
else in Andalusia - or Spain for<br />
that matter. The route is<br />
busiest at weekends as visitors<br />
flock to try venison, gazpacho,<br />
pork loin in dripping or a<br />
variety of game dishes.<br />
Alcalá <strong>de</strong> los Gazules is worth<br />
a visit to see the church of San<br />
Jorge and the hermitage of<br />
the Virgen <strong>de</strong> los Santos.<br />
Medina Sidonia, c<strong>la</strong>ssified as<br />
a monumental town, still<br />
preserves three Arab gates,<br />
remnants of the ancient<br />
fortress whose stones are said<br />
to have been used to build<br />
the Cathedral of Cadiz.<br />
The best p<strong>la</strong>ce to view Medina<br />
is the Cortijo Pocasangre, from<br />
where the town resembles a<br />
ship of which the church<br />
tower is the mainmast.<br />
This is also the route of the<br />
fighting bull; in the area are<br />
many estates where these<br />
animals are bred for the<br />
Alcalá <strong>de</strong> los Gazules<br />
bull-ring. Another town,<br />
Benalup, is the entry-point to<br />
Los Alcornocales natural park,<br />
where visitors can see the<br />
Neolithic paintings in the<br />
Cueva <strong>de</strong>l Tajo <strong>de</strong> <strong>la</strong>s Figuras,<br />
literally the “Cave of the<br />
Painted Gorge”.<br />
The white towns<br />
Running parallel to the<br />
coastline rises the mountain<br />
range known as Los Pueblos<br />
B<strong>la</strong>ncos, or The White Towns,<br />
so-called because they are all<br />
Sierra <strong>de</strong> Grazalema<br />
whitewashed. This route<br />
commences in Grazalema, a<br />
mountain area c<strong>la</strong>ssified as a<br />
natural park, whose<br />
outstanding point of interest<br />
is the pinsapo, a species of fir<br />
which is a living relic left over<br />
from the <strong>la</strong>st Alpine g<strong>la</strong>cier<br />
period. At the other extreme<br />
Arcos <strong>de</strong> <strong>la</strong> Frontera, probably<br />
the loveliest of<br />
all the towns<br />
in the range,<br />
stands<br />
Arcos <strong>de</strong> <strong>la</strong> Frontera