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Costa de la Luz

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Cadiz:<br />

“La Tacita <strong>de</strong> P<strong>la</strong>ta”<br />

In Cadiz the sea is the<br />

beginning and the end of<br />

everything – “salt-glittering”<br />

was the term used by the poet<br />

Manuel Machado. A seafaring<br />

city always (foun<strong>de</strong>d by<br />

Hercules himself according to<br />

legend) Cadiz c<strong>la</strong>ims to be the<br />

ol<strong>de</strong>st city in the West. If<br />

possible, visitors should try to<br />

approach the city by sea,<br />

crossing the bay on one of<br />

the boats (known locally as<br />

vaporcitos, or little steamers)<br />

that shuttle between Cadiz<br />

and El Puerto <strong>de</strong> Santa María<br />

on the far si<strong>de</strong> of the bay, a<br />

crossing of about one hour.<br />

Those who do will un<strong>de</strong>rstand<br />

why Cadiz is popu<strong>la</strong>rly<br />

known as La Tacita <strong>de</strong> P<strong>la</strong>ta<br />

(the Silver Cup).<br />

The new part of the city,<br />

recognisable by the<br />

mo<strong>de</strong>rn buildings,<br />

f<strong>la</strong>nks a long avenue<br />

which is the only<br />

means of access for those<br />

arriving by car. The Puerta <strong>de</strong><br />

Tierra, or Land Gate – a piece<br />

of 17 th -century fortification –<br />

separates the old town from<br />

the new. The best way to start<br />

is by taking a stroll through<br />

the Barrio <strong>de</strong>l Pópulo, the<br />

most authentic part of the old<br />

Cadiz, which huddles around<br />

the Cathedral – a <strong>la</strong>rge<br />

Baroque building with a bluetiled<br />

dome. Not far from there<br />

is the church of Santa Cruz,<br />

the first p<strong>la</strong>ce of Christian<br />

worship in Cadiz foun<strong>de</strong>d by<br />

King Alfonso X the Wise on<br />

the site of an Arab mosque.<br />

The many churches inclu<strong>de</strong><br />

Santo Domingo (which has a<br />

marble-columned cloister),<br />

Santa María, Santiago,<br />

San Agustín, San Francisco<br />

(containing works by<br />

Montañés), San Antonio,<br />

P<strong>la</strong>za <strong>de</strong> San Juan <strong>de</strong> Dios.<br />

Cadiz<br />

El Carmen and El Rosario<br />

(which houses sculptures of<br />

the city’s patron saints San<br />

Servando and San Germán).<br />

Also worth seeing are the<br />

old Cigar Factory, the Royal<br />

Prison, the Provincial Museum,<br />

the Santa Cueva or Holy Cave<br />

(with frescoes by Goya), the<br />

Town Hall, the Gran Teatro<br />

Fal<strong>la</strong>, Torre Tavira and<br />

Castle of San Sebastián. Cadiz<br />

Paseo Campo <strong>de</strong>l Sur. Cadiz<br />

the Oratory of San Felipe Neri,<br />

where Spain’s first<br />

Constitution was approved in<br />

1812. It contains a painting by<br />

Murillo and is c<strong>la</strong>ssified as a<br />

National Monument.<br />

Lining the A<strong>la</strong>meda and the<br />

square of San Antonio are<br />

the finest houses in Cadiz,<br />

outstanding for their<br />

remarkable filigreed<br />

balconies. Some also preserve<br />

the original gleaming brassstud<strong>de</strong>d<br />

mahogany doors,<br />

which open on to marbled<br />

patios be<strong>de</strong>cked with climbing<br />

p<strong>la</strong>nts and flowers. On the<br />

si<strong>de</strong> facing the sea, the houses<br />

are painted in bright colours.<br />

7

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