Costa de la Luz

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Olvera perched on an immense crag overlooking the river Guadalete. Like many other towns in the region, it bears the appellative “de la Frontera” because for nearly three hundred years it was a border outpost separating Arabs and Christians, followers of the cross and followers of the crescent. Zahara de la Sierra These lands were the scene of many battles, but also of many tragic legends featuring Castilian knights and Moorish princesses or Arab princes and fair Christian captives. In the end, it was the Christian culture that prevailed, but the Arab influence still lingers. Other towns include Olvera, clinging to its hilltop; Zahara de la Sierra, protected by a Moorish castle; Algodonales, famous for its waters and its pastries; El Gastor with its nearby dolmens; Ubrique, site of numerous leather works; Benamahoma, where you can find the best honey in these mountains; or Setenil, most of which is built beneath immense rocks, so that in places the streets are like tunnels. Castle. Niebla Niebla and the wines of El Condado The arable land is bounded by the river Odiel, which was once navigable right up to Niebla but now does no more than lap the old Arab walls. The land was once held by the Tartessans, and there are still the remains of a quay, most probably built in Roman times, like the bridge. Vessels once sailed up to Niebla to take on copper ore. Mining was abandoned in the 15 th century and resumed by the English in the 18 th century. In the early 11 th century Niebla was the capital of a petty independent kingdom, and it was here that the Arabs first used gunpowder in 1257, a century before it became known in Europe. The two kilometres of walls surrounding the town are still an impressive sight. Nearby is the dolmen of Soto, where a corridor of stone slabs leads into a central chamber containing engravings. The vale of the old County of Niebla is surrounded by vineyards producing smooth, fruity white wines. The nearest habitation is La Palma del Condado, originally a Roman town where stone tablets have been found bearing inscriptions alluding to the goodness of its oil. At the same time as the September fair – one of the oldest in Spain – La Palma celebrates its Grape Harvest Festival, where the first must of the season is offered up in tribute to the patroness of the fields, the Virgen de la Guía. Seven kilometres further on is Bollullos Par del Condado, the area’s commercial centre, where grape is gathered alongside olive, and the Día del Vino, or Wine Day, is celebrated, also in September. Church of Santiago Apóstol. Bollullos Par del Condado 28 29
The Sierra de Aracena Once the scene of Templar activity, this mountain area is dotted with small fortresses, a legacy of the Reconquest. There are places which were pagan before becoming Christian, legend-haunted grottoes, villages of white houses set amidst woods of holm and cork oak - and above all, the best serrano ham in Spain. Perched on a crag shielding the lovely town of Alájar (the name means “stone” in Arabic) stands the sanctuary of Nuestra Señora de los Angeles, one of Spain’s most important religious sites (and the most important in this Sierra) and a good example of how our forebears always selected the most beautiful surroundings for their devotions. The rooms adjoining the church are replete with hundreds of votive offerings, objects left over the years in thanksgiving for some favour vouchsafed by the Virgin. Alájar It was to the grotto of Alájar that Arias Montano, humanist, scientist, polyglot and researcher, was forced by the Inquisition to retire from the world of mundane things, having been saved from torture only by his friendship with King Philip II. After enjoying the magnificent view from the vantage point of the sanctuary, one leaves Alájar in the direction of Aracena, twelve kilometres away. From far off, crowning the town, one can make out the Almohad tower on which the banner of the Templars fluttered for nearly two centuries. Aracena has always been a classic summer resort for the citizens of Seville and Huelva. The most interesing feature, besides the Castle church, is a Grotto of Wonders that preserves beautiful stalactites and stalagmites which are among the most extensive in Spain (the grotto is 1500 metres long). In the interior are 12 chambers and six lakes. Following the road to Portugal one comes to Jabugo, a town famous for the ham of that name, which is immortalised in heartfelt stanzas by Lope de Vega. Among the mountains, little towns like Castaño del Robledo lie hidden, fine examples of the traditional mountain architecture. For nearly six centuries these homes of fine ham belonged to the Arabs, a people who never touched it. But they did build castles and mosques, some of them still standing today, and they left a rich cultural legacy which has come down to us in place names like Almonaster, Aracena, Galaroza and many others. Already before the Arabs, the region had been peopled by Celts and Romans, In Aroche, for example, Scipio stayed on his arrival from Rome to combat Viriato. In the neighbourhood of the present bullring, once an Almoravid castle, there are numerous legend-haunted megaliths, known by the locals as “Devil’s stones”. Grotto of Wonders. Aracena Contrasting with such pagan beliefs, Aroche is home to one of the most curious of religious museums, the Museum of the Holy Rosary, which boasts a collection of nearly 1300 rosaries. These have been donated by popes, monarchs, politicians and famous personalities. And Aroche has yet another museum – the Archaeological Museum, which is housed in the castle. Mosque. Almonaster 30 31
Page 1 and 2: Cadiz • Huelva Costa de la Luz Sp
Page 3 and 4: Coastal routes The domains of Guzm
Page 5 and 6: Cadiz: “La Tacita de Plata” In
Page 7 and 8: Jerez and the Sherry Triangle Throu
Page 9 and 10: Fishing port. Rota Promenade. Rota
Page 11 and 12: The Port of the Three Caravels The
Page 13 and 14: House-Museum Alonso Pinzón. Palos
Page 15: Inland routes The route of the vent
Page 19 and 20: Food Leisure and entertainment To b
Page 21: PORTUGAL 38 Cumbres Mayores 712 Ten

Costa de la Luz

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