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B- E-- F= CUT DADO 3Z'PLYWOOD CONE PIECES MADE FROM TIGHT{AUGE SHEET METAL a. cur RABBET To . l\\\.\\\\\ l.i'{'{.{'{'.Mlffi++rffiiil' - ' Lzz
-Dr = = -E t | 'f -- T - ...F = - - = - T" =' .. - ..T -r = --r - - - : - (For more information on how to use pop rivets, see the Shop Info below.) DRILL HOLES. With the rivets in hand, the next step is to drill holes that match the diarneter of the rivets. I found it easiest to lay the pieces out flat so there's a 1rr overlap down the center seam (Fig. 5a). The only problem is keeping the sheet metal pieces from moving rvhile you driil the holes. To solve this, I aligned the top and bottom edges so they're flush, and then used masking tape to temporariiy hold the seams together (Fig. 5). Then it's just a matter of drilling a series of holes and installing the rivets. Note: I used a scrap 2x4 as a backing board when driiling the holes. FORM CONE. Now you're ready to put the cone in place. At this point. it's no big deal if it's not a perfect cone. Just as long as it's rolled up tight enough to slip the metal down through the top and bottom cone supports. The thing to keep in n-rind here is where the seam that's rroÍ riveted together is located. You'll rvant to ensure that it faces an open end of the frame (instead of the side). So I centered the riveted seam on an open end of the cone supports (Fíg. (;). Although this roughly positions the sheet metal, you'll still need to slide it up or down a bit to geL the top and bottom edges flush with the cone supports. The trick is to keep both edges aligned while you attach the sheet metal to the supports. ATTACH METAL. What worked best for me was to tackie a small section at a time. So I started at the riveted seam and worked in both directions, nailing the top and bottom edges in place as I worked myway around (Fí9. 6a). Note: I used hardened ring-shank nails to punch through the metal. RIVET SEAM. After nailing the cone all the way around, the last seam can be riveted. To prevent the metal frorn crumpling when drilling the holes for these rivets, I clamped a short section of board (on edge) over the inside of the seam (Fig.7). SEAI SEAMS. Now al1 that's needed to complete the cone is to seal the seams. To do this, I first covered each seam with a short strip of metal foil tape. ffou could also use duct tape.) Then simply apply a thin bead of silicone cauik where the metal cone meets the plywood supports (Fig.8). z STRETCHERS. Finally, to keep the frame from racking, I added two stretchers (D). These stretchers are just pieces of %rr-thick plywood that are cut to fit between the sides and screwed in place ( F ig. 8). SrePilNF@ op rivets are a quick and easy way to fasten two pieces of sheet metal together securely. After drilling a hole to fit the rivet, a special riveting tool is used to compress the rivet (bottom photo). What makes this work is a pin that passes through a hole in the rivet (top photo). The long end of this pin is gripped tightly in the gun. The opposite end has a mushroom-like "ball" that's larger than the hole in the rivet. By squeezing the gun handles, the pin pulls back and draws the ball against the end of the rivet. This flares the end of the rivet. Once the rivet is permanently set, the pin "pops" off. SECOND: NAIL TOP AND BOTTOM EDGES (SEE DETALL a) FIRST CLAMP EOARD ACROSS INSIDE OF sEAM TO DRILL HOLES - /z' -,^ À- #8x2" Fh WOODSCRËW \ a' o - S'AL BOTiI SEA\,15 \'J.ïr METAL FOiL -ÁPE 17q" R|NG-sHANK NAIL APPLY StLtcoNE CAULK WHERE CONE MEETS l o STRETCHER Klvets .-1 .-
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