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The Vineyard, September/October, 2007 S herries eXtrAordiNAire Superb Sherries of emilio lustau “simply staggering in quality…what complex fine old sherry is all about…sherries such as these remain among the last great unknown bargains of the world. they must be tasted to be believed!” Robert parker “lustau stands at the very apex of the sherry world.” Decanter Magazine “…as different from standard sherries as chalk from cheese.” clive coates The House of Emilio Lustau, founded in 1896, is one of the largest independent, family-owned producers in Jerez today. In addition to their highlyacclaimed “Reserva Range” of typical sherries, they currently offer, in extremely limited quantities, ten “Almacenista” wines. These are carefully selected and drawn from small stocks of authentic, pure, unblended and completely dry, classical Sherries matured by the “Almacenistas” of Jerez and its surroundings, in southern Spain. As well Lustau is quite proud to offer their very rare “Landed Age” Sherries. Quantities are extremely limited in all cases. almacenista sherries “Over the last decade, Lustau has become noted for a number of specialty sherries, including the Almacenistas (meaning storekeeper or stockholder, pronounced al-math-en-eesta) - great old Sherries that Lustau buys from stocks produced and own by private individuals, bottled in very small quantities. There are about 54 Almacenistas in the Sherry district, acting as stockholders, some of which have their own vineyards. They all mature stocks of exceptionally high-quality old sherries. Whenever a shipper needs to improve a blend of Oloroso or Fino, he may obtain a butt or two from an Almacenista. The name of the Almacenistas never appeared on a bottle of Sherry until recently when the House of Lustau (itself an Almacenista until 1950) decided to release a select range of these fine, old unblended Sherries, which they purchased from various Almacenistas. A Designation such as 1/50 appears on the label and indicates that the bottling is from a Solera consisting of only 50 butts, with the smaller the number of butts the rarer the wine.” The Underground Wine Journal anTOniO BOrreGO Oloroso Viejo 1/138 _________________________________________________ 32.99 “...is one of the most riveting dry sherries I have ever tasted.” Wine Advocate, rated 96/100 JOSe luiS GOnZaleS OBreGOn Amontillado Del Puerto 1/10 ___________________________________________ 34.99 18.5% alcohol. Absolutely exceptional. Extremely complex and elaborately aromatic; unmistakably a very old (more than 50 years) wine clearly “flor” influenced and tangy. Flavorful and richly textured but not heavy, with hazelnut, toffee and mandarin orange flavors that lingers interminably. Rated 97/100, International Wine Cellar Rated 90/100, The Chicago Tribune Fino Del Puerto 1/143 ________________________________________________ 22.99 Juan Garcia Jarana Oloroso De Jerez Pata de Gallina 1/38 _____________________________________ 34.99 20% alcohol. An extreme rarity, from one of only three butts. This is rally special. Fat and full’ dry but with the ripe “sweetness” of concentrated fig, raisin and dried apricot fruit. Toasty, coffee bean and nutty finish. Rated 94/100, Wine Advocate Rated 90/100, International Wine Cellar Rated 91/100, The Wine Enthusiast miGuel FOnTadeZ FlOridO Amontillado de Jerez 1/47 _____________________________________________ 34.99 “Profound bouquet of nuts and raisins…extraordinary concentration and intensity, fabulous balance.” Wine Advocate, rated 94/100 m. cueVaS JuradO Manzanilla Amontillada de Sanlucar 1/21 __________________________________ 37.99 VideS Palo Cortado 1/50 ___________________________________________________ 34.99 Rated 92/100, Wine Advocate Rated 93/100, The Fine Wine Review Rated 95/100, International Wine Cellar Reserva and gran Reserva sherries Very Rare Dry Oloroso (Solera Gran Reserva Emperatriz Eugenia) __________________ 37.99 Very Rare Dry Oloroso (Solera Gran Reserva Emperatriz Eugenia) _______________ half 19.99 “Incredible perfume and finish; dry and very rich, with great complexity. The price is absurdly low.” Wine Advocate, 93/100 Pedro Ximenez (Solera Reserva San Emilio) _________________________________ 24.99 Pedro Ximenez (Solera Reserva San Emilio) ______________________________ half 13.99 “Superb. Golden brown, amazingly long and deep, very sweet. Fifty years old.” Wine Advocate, rated 94/100 Moscatel Superior (Solera Reserva Emilin) __________________________________ 24.99 Moscatel Superior (Solera Reserva Emilin) _______________________________ half 13.99 “50 years old, great perfume, dark brown, very sweet. Given the quality, the price is absurdly low.” Wine Advocate, rated 94/100 Rated 94/100, International Wine Cellar Rare Cream (Solera Reserva Superior) _____________________________________ 27.99 Rare Cream (Solera Reserva Superior) __________________________________ half 13.99 “A slightly sweet Sherry with a fabulously rich bouquet, intense, concentrated flavors and a long finish. Vivid, with extraordinary nuances.” Wine Advocate, rated 96/100 Deluxe Cream (Solera Reserva Capataz Andres) ______________________________ 22.99 Deluxe Cream (Solera Reserva Capataz Andres) ___________________________ half 11.99 “Here’s a dessert wine to make your head spin. Intense, glossy caramel color and rich molasses nose suggest the richness delivered on the sweet, lush, palate. Raisiny, viscous and extremely sweet. 25% Pedro Ximenez makes this all the more intense.” The Wine Enthusiast, rated 96/100 Platinum Medal. Superlative. Sherry Champion Dry Oloroso Single Cask Ano 2000 ________________________________________ 59.99 Dry Oloroso (Solera Reserva Don Nuno) ____________________________________ 22.99 Dry Oloroso (Solera Reserva Don Nuno) _________________________________ half 11.99 “Brown amber, with a penetrating dry, nutty aroma and wonderfully precise, pleasant flavors. Must be tasted to be believed!” Wine Advocate, rated 92/100 Dry Amontillado (Solera Reserva Los Arcos) _________________________________ 22.99 Dry Amontillado (Solera Reserva Los Arcos) ______________________________ half 11.99 Rated 90/100, Wine Advocate East India Solera _________________________________________________ half 11.99 Puerto Fino (Solera Reserva) ________________________________________ half 8.99 Puerto Fino (Solera Reserva) ___________________________________________ 12.99 Fino Jarana (Solera Reserva) ___________________________________________ 14.99 Fino Jarana (Solera Reserva) ________________________________________ half 8.99 Palo Cortado Single Cask Ano 2000 _______________________________________ 59.99 Palo Cortado (Solera Reserva Peninsula) ___________________________________ 24.99 Palo Cortado (Solera Reserva Peninsula) ________________________________ half 12.99 Rated 92/100, Wine Advocate Rare Amontillado (Solera Reserva Escuadrilla) _______________________________ 25 .99 Rare Amontillado (Solera Reserva Escuadrilla) ____________________________ half 12.99 PG. 6 | Phone 1-800-41-3438 • local 417-883-4066 • FaX 417-881-0036
The Vineyard, September/October, 2007 R Are, irreplAceABle Vintage madeiras Vintage Madeira is a very rare commodity, in fact extremely rare. Vintage years are declared 30 years after the vintage. The wines are kept in cask for 20 years before being bottled. They are ready to drink at this stage but are still considered young wines. Make no mistake, these elder citizens are wines of great consequence. Madeira, meaning “forested” in Portugese, is a small volcanic island 400 miles off the coast of Morocco. Vines grow perched on ledges in the fertile soil, infused with potash from a fire that raged for 7 years in the 15th century. Madeira is one of the longest lived of all wines and has retained its popularity since the 18th century, and, despite attacks by odium and phylloxera, outstanding quality wine has been produced since the 19th century. Today’s Madeira is known by the principal grape varieties used; Sercial producing the driest wine, Verdelho, Bual and Malmsey, the sweetest. madeira styles • Sercial: Made from the Sercial grape. Often high tone, nutty, with lots of character. Dry wine. • Verdelho: Medium to dry from the Verdelho grape. Smoky complexity with tang of acidity. • Bual: Dark medium-rich, raisiny made from the Bual grape. Retains acidity with age. • Malmsey: From the Malvasia Candida and Malvasia Babos grapes. Very sweet. Big levels of acidity. Gains richness with age. BarBeiTO It is ironic that among major producers of Madeira, the youngest firm has the most impressive stock of very old wines not only on the island of Madeira, but in the world. Vinhos Barbeito was founded just 58 years ago, in 1946, by Mario Barbeito de Vasconcelos, a wealthy businessman. The firm’s incredible range of old vintages today is due to his foresight, since in the 1940’s and 1950’s Bareito de Vasconcelos went around the island buying up large quantities of privately owned wine, some of it dating back to the 18th century. These old wines became the foundation for one of the world’s most unique wine libraries. 1960 Boal _______________________________ 199.99 1955 Boal _______________________________ 299.99 1953 Boal _______________________________ 299.99 1912 Boal _______________________________ 349.99 1910 Boal _______________________________ 349.99 1962 Malvasia ____________________________ 199.99 1954 Malvasia ____________________________ 299.99 1948 Malvasia ____________________________ 349.99 1875 Malvasia ____________________________ 599.99 1935 Sercial _____________________________ 299.99 1910 Sercial _____________________________ 349.99 1929 Verdelho ___________________________ 299.99 1926 Verdelho ___________________________ 299.99 BlandyS The Blandys are unique in being the only family of all the original founders of the Madeira wine trade to still own and manage their own original wine company; nearly 2 centuries of fine wine production, 1811 - 2006. 1977 Bual _______________________________ 159.99 1971 Bual _______________________________ 169.99 1968 Bual _______________________________ 169.99 1964 Bual _______________________________ 199.99 1960 Bual _______________________________ 259.99 1948 Bual _______________________________ 359.99 1920 Bual _______________________________ 699.99 1974 Sercial _____________________________ 149.99 1966 Sercial _____________________________ 149.99 1977 Verdelho ___________________________ 159.99 1968 Verdelho ___________________________ 169.99 BrOadBenT 1940 Sercial _____________________________ 599.99 1954 Verdelho ___________________________ 399.99 1964 Bual _______________________________ 369.99 1978 Bual _______________________________ 219.99 1978 Terrantez ___________________________ 289.99 cOSSarT Cossart Gordon & Co. was established in 1745 and is the oldest company in the Madeira Wine trade. Francis Newton, a young Scot, sailed from Gravesend in Britain and arrived in Madeira on September 12th 1745 founding the company. He was joined by his younger brother Thomas from 1758 to 1763 and then by another Scot, Thomas Gordon of Balmaghie also in 1758. Thomas Murdoch joined the firm in 1791 that came to be called Newton, Gordon, Murcoch & Co. By 1850 the firm was said to be shipping “half the growth of the island” and Newton’s contacts in America through his brother Andrew (who left Scotland for Virginia) were proving to be highly successful and the company acquired an unequalled reputation as suppliers of fine Madeiras. To this day, Cossart Gordon Madeiras are considered the very finest available. 1963 Bual _______________________________ 199.99 1950 Sercial _____________________________ 249.99 d’OliVeira D’Oliveira is one of the greatest of the classic Madeira shippers, and one of the few to survive from the pre-phylloxera era. Founded in 1820, and today housed in cellars that date from 1619, this small jewel of a company is still owned by the same family, its vineyards holdings built up over time through a series of marriages with other wine-producing families. But what is really extraordinary is that D’Olivera has held on to many of its most famous vintages, creating a unique, and irreplaceable, stock of old wines. And remarkably they are all D’Oliveira wines, not purchased from other shippers or growers. 1968 Boal _______________________________ 179.99 1922 Boal _______________________________ 399.99 1908 Boal _______________________________ 499.99 1903 Boal _______________________________ 649.99 1907 Malvasia ____________________________ 599.99 1895 Malvasia ____________________________ 649.99 1900 Moscatel ____________________________ 649.99 1937 Sercial _____________________________ 349.99 1966 Verdelho ___________________________ 179.99 1912 Verdelho ___________________________ 499.99 1905 Verdelho ___________________________ 599.99 1900 Verdelho ___________________________ 649.99 1977 Terrantez ___________________________ 149.99 leacOck John Leacock sailed to Madeira from the United Kingdom (after the death of his father) in 1741 and at the age of 15 became the youngest apprentice at the firm of Madeira merchants, Catanach and Murdoch staying until his contract expired on 11 March 1749. During his apprenticeship he had been in constant contact with an old school friend, John Patient, residing at that time in Charles Town, South Carolina who suggested that they themselves should commence trading. Leacock agreed and this marks the birth of the now world famous company. 1966 Bual _______________________________ 199.99 1963 Sercial _____________________________ 179.99 1950 Sercial _____________________________ 249.99 1973 Verdelho ___________________________ 139.99 info@brownderby.com • www.brownderby.com PG. | 7
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Page 5: ollinger speciAl cUVee The Vineyard
Page 17 and 18: World Famous grappa The Vineyard, S
Page 19 and 20: Single Quinta Vintage Port 2005 Vin
Page 29 and 30: 2005 Mitolo Shiraz Reiver__________
Page 51 and 52: arriVinG ThiS Fall: The Vineyard, S
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