How To Build A Spray-In-Place Concrete Fence - Monolithic

The zig zag prevents trouble ith the black clay soil. Fence is permanent.
geous and self-cleaning. The fence
looks sharp and new for years.
The thickness described here is
1½” to 2” thick. Unless that fence
will be subjected to heavy loads or
heavy banging, that is all the fence
you will ever need. In fact, it’s
certainly stronger than any wood
fence. And because we can keep it
thin, we use less material and do
the job quicker, simpler and less
expensively.
As part of this Appendix, we
can also tell you that you can
use #2 steel rebar in the fence, as
described in the book. I would
move the bars closer to 15” on
center -- or you could even go to
12”. Number 2 rebar is not readily
available, but it can be used. But
if you use steel rebar you have to
keep the fence well coated to prevent
rusting.
If you are using steel rebar, be
sure you have about 2” of cover
on each side of the rebar to protect
it from water. Or you have to
paint the fence to protect it. To do
a really good job of painting the
fence, you need something beside
the concrete stain. You need something
like silicone or first class
acrylic that stops water migration.
We strongly recommend that
you use basalt reinforcing. The
rebar coming up out of the posts
can still be steel, but it is even
better if it’s basalt as well. Basalt
rebar can be purchased at the same
places as the webbing.
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