DEMO - 1956 Ford Car Shop Manual - FordManuals.com

19 5 6FORDDIVISIONM O T O COMPANY

Copyright © 2009, Forel Publishing Company, LLC, Woodbridge, VirginiaAll Rights Reserved. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoeverwithout written permission of Forel Publishing Company, LLC. For information write to ForelPublishing Company, LLC, 3999 Peregrine Ridge Ct., Woodbridge, VA 221921956 Ford Car Shop ManualEAN: 978-1-60371-006-0ISBN: 1-60371-006-XForel Publishing Company, LLC3999 Peregrine Ridge Ct.Woodbridge, VA 22192Email address: webmaster@ForelPublishing.comWebsite: http://www.ForelPublishing.comThis publication contains material that is reproduced and distributed under a license from FordMotor Company. No further reproduction or distribution of the Ford Motor Company material isallowed without the express written permission of Ford Motor Company.Note from the EditorThis product was created from the original Ford Motor Company’s publication. Every effort hasbeen made to use the original scanned images, however, due to the condition of the material;some pages have been modified to remove imperfections.DisclaimerAlthough every effort was made to ensure the accuracy of this book, no representations orwarranties of any kind are made concerning the accuracy, completeness or suitability of theinformation, either expressed or implied. As a result, the information contained within this bookshould be used as general information only. The author and Forel Publishing Company, LLCshall have neither liability nor responsibility to any person or entity with respect to any loss ordamage caused, or alleged to be caused, directly or indirectly by the information contained inthis book. Further, the publisher and author are not engaged in rendering legal or otherprofessional services. If legal, mechanical, electrical, or other expert assistance is required, theservices of a competent professional should be sought.

-19 5 6Copyright 1955FORD MOTOR COMPANYDEARBORN, MICHIGANAll rights reserved'Reproduced under License #5008 trom Ford Motor CompanyFebruary 2002. September, 1955FORDDIVISIONFORD MOTOR COMPANY

ELECTRICALFOREWORDThis manual has been prepared to provide information for theproper servicingof 1956 Ford Cars and the 1956 Ford Thunderbird.The manual should be kept where it will be readilyavailable forreference at all times. The service procedures are accompanied byillustrations of manyof the service operations. Disassembled viewsof some of the car units are also given.The manual is divided into five main parts as listed in the Tableof Contents on the following pages.Part ONE POWER PLANT is composed of the various enginesand their related systems, which are ignition, fuel,and cooling.Part TWO -CHASSIS -includes information on the entirepower train (clutch, conventional transmission, Overdrive, driveline, rear axle, etc.) and the running gear (frames, springs, suspension, brakes, wheels, tires, steering gear, steering linkages, etc.).Service procedures for the Fordomatic transmission are publishedin a separate manual.Part THREE-AND ACCESSORIES-coversall of the electrical systems and units (except the ignition system)and all of the accessories (except the Overdrive and Fordomatic).Part FOUR BODIES contains information on the maintenance and repair of all body components, includingadjustment andalignment of doors, hoods, and fenders. Window glass adjustmentsare also included in this part.Part FIVE -MAINTENANCE AND SPECIFICATIONS-includes complete maintenance and lubrication information, andcontains all the specificationsnecessary for properly servicingFord cars.The page headings, throughout the manual, designate the subjectmatter covered. The headingon each left-hand or even-numberedpage indicates the name of the chapter and the headingon eachright-hand or odd-numbered page indicates the section covered.The descriptions and specifications contained in this manualwere in effect at the time the book was approved for printing. TheFord Division of Ford Motor Company reserves the right to discontinue models at any time, or change specifications or design,without notice and without incurring obligation.SERVICEDEPARTMENTFORD DIVISIONFORD MOTOR COMPANY

.- ..49.... 78.847414551011.Foreword .TABLE OFCONTENTSPage2Part ONE-POWER PLANTSection 12345SectionCHAPTER I GENERAL ENGINE OVERHAUL, INSPECTION, AND REPAIRPage^ageTroubleshooting. 5 Section 6 Timing Chain, Sprockets and Camshaft 20Tune-Up 8 7 Flywheeel, Crankshaft and Main Bearings. 22Engine Removal and Installation 10 8 Cylinder Block, Pistons, Piston Rings, andIntake and Exhaust ...Manifolds...Connecting Rods and Bearings 25.Rocker Mechanism, Cylinder Head, Valves, 9 Oil Pan and Oil 29PumpValve Lash Adjustment, and Valve Timing. .15 Exhaust System 30CHAPTER II 6-CYLINDER ENGINE...Engine Steady Rest. 31 Section 7 Flywheel, Crankshaft, and Main Bearings 39Manifolds.... 32Cylinder Head and Valves. 338 Connecting Rods and Bearings, Pistons, Pins,CrankshaftandDamper..... 36Rings 42Cylinder Front Cover and Crankshaft Oil Seal 36sprocket and Timing Chain, Camshaft andg Qil p Qil pilter and oil p 44Bearings, and Tappets 37 10 Exhaust System 45CHAPTER III 8-CYLINDER ENGINESSection 123456General Information. 47 Section 7 Sprockets and Timing Chain, Camshaft andEngine Steady Rest. . Bearings, and Tappets 568Manifolds Flywheel,49Crankshaft, and Main Bearings . 60, '.''.., 9, Connecting Rods and Bearings, Pistons, Pins,Cylinder Heads and Valves 51and Rings 62Crankshaft Damper... 54 io Oil Pan, Oil Filter, and Oil Pump. . . 64Cylinder Front Cover and Crankshaft Oil Seal .11 Exhaust System ... ... 66CHAPTER IV IGNITION, FUEL, AND COOLING SYSTEMSSection 123456.. .. . .Ignition System.... 69 Section 7 Four-Barrel Carburetor Operation,Distributor Minor Repair and Adjustments. Adjustments, and Overhaul 95Distributor Overhaul 8 Fuel Pumps, Vacuum Booster, and Fuel Filter 108Carburetor Operation and Adjustments 9 Fuel Tanks and Lines. 110Single and Dual Carburetors. 10 Fans and Belts. IllSingle Barrel Carburetor Overhaul. .89 Water Pumps 112Dual Carburetor Overhaul 92 12 Radiator, Hose, and Thermostat 115Part TWO-CHASSISCHAPTER I CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION, AND GEAR SHIFT LINKAGESection 1234Trouble .Shooting 117Clutch .119Flywheel Housing Alignment.123Transmission Cleaning and Inspection 124Section 5 Conventional 3-Speed Transmission.6 Overdrive Transmission .7 Gear Shift Linkage .125129138CHAPTER II REAR AXLES AND DRIVE LINESSection 123Trouble Shooting.Cleaningand Inspection. .Banjo Housing Hypoid Rear Axle. . 141. . 142143Section 4Integral Housing Hypoid Rear Axle.5 Drive Lines.152158CHAPTER IIIRUNNING GEARSection 12345Trouble ShootingWheel Alignment.Frames.Front Suspension .Rear Suspension.159. . 161163164168Section 6 Shock Absorbers.7 Steering Gear . . .8 Steering Linkage .9 Wheels and Tires.10 Hubs and Bearings169170175178181CHAPTER IV POWER STEERINGSection 123Troubleshooting 183Inspection and Maintenance 186Power Steering System Operation. . . 187Section 4567Pump and Fluid Reservoir AssemblyControl Valve Assembly.Power Cylinder .AssemblySteering Linkage .190194200202CHAPTER VBRAKESSection 1234.Troubleshooting. 206Adjustments. 207Hydraulic System 208Brake Assemblies. 212Section 5 Brake Drums6 Vacuum Booster7 Parking Brakes.213214216

.. .. 271Part THREE-ELECTRICAL AND ACCESSORIESCHAPTER I-GENERATING SYSTEM AND BATTERYSection 1 Trouble.Shooting2 GeneratorPage217221Section 3 Generator Regulator4 BatteryPage. 226. 232CHAPTER II STARTING SYSTEMSection 1 Trouble Shooting 2352 Starter and Circuit 238Section 3 Starter Drive 244CHAPTER III LIGHTING SYSTEM, HORNS, AND INSTRUMENTSSection 1 Trouble Shooting 2452 Lighting System 247Section 3 Horns 2524 Instruments 253CHAPTER IV ACCESSORIESSection 1 Trouble Shooting 257 Section 4 Windshield Wiper 2682 Radio 260 5 Miscellaneous Accessories 2693 Heater 265Part FOUR BODIESCHAPTER I BODY CONSTRUCTION AND MAINTENANCE.Section 1 Construction Details and Sealer Application. Section 42 Body Alignment 278 53 Quarter Panel Repair 279 6Fibre Glass Repair Thunderbird ....Hardtop 281General Body Maintenance 282Paint Refinishing 284CHAPTER II-TRIM, UPHOLSTERY, AND WINDOW GLASSSection 1 Door and Quarter Trim Panels. .2 Headlining Replacement3 Ventilator and Division Bar289292294Section 4567Door Glass and Regulator Replacement 296Door Glass Adjustments 299Quarter Glass 303Windshield and Rear Window 307CHAPTER III REMOVABLE SHEET METAL ASSEMBLIESSection 123Door Replacement and Alignment 313 Section 5 Grille and Hood 324Door Locking Mechanism 3176 Hood Alignment and Lock Adjustment 326Luggage Compartment Door7Replacement and Alignment 320Thunderbird Grille and Hood 328Luggage Compartment Door8 Front Fenders 329Locking Mechanism 323CHAPTER IV POWER INSTALLATIONS AND SPECIAL ITEMSSection 1 Power Windows 331 Section 42 Power Seats 337 53 Convertible Top 342 6Thunderbird Top Adjustments 347Care of Country Squire Paneling 349Crown Victoria Transparent Top 350Part FIVE-MAINTENANCE AND SPECIFICATIONSCHAPTER I-MAINTENANCESection 1 Preventive Maintenance 353 Section 2 Lubrication 355CHAPTER II SPECIFICATIONSSection 1 Wheels and Tires 3572 Brakes 3573 Wheel Alignment and Steering 3584 Rear Axles 3585 Frame and Springs 3596 Engines 3607 Clutch and Transmission 362Section 8 Cooling 3539 Fuel System 35310 Generating System 3541 1 Starting System 3541 2 Ignition35413 Fuse and Bulb Chart 36514 Paint36515 Tools and Equipment 355

cessories."SectionPart ONEPOWER PLANTChapterGenera/ Engine Overhaul, Inspection,iand Repair1 Trouble Shooting 52 Tune-Up 83 Engine Removal and Installation 104 Intake and Exhaust Manifolds 145 Rocker Mechanism, Cylinder Head, Valves, Valve Lash Adjustment, and Valve Timing 156 Timing Chain, Sprockets, and Camshaft 207 Flywheel, Crankshaft, and Main Bearings 228 Cylinder Block, Pistons, Piston Rings, and Connecting Rods and Bearings 259 Oil Pan and Oil Pump 2910 Exhaust System 30PageTrouble shooting; tune-up; the cleaning, inspection,and repair of component parts; and overhaul instruc-tions are covered in this chapter.The cleaning, inspection, repair, and overhaul instruc-tions apply only after the parts have been removed desiredafter the engine has been disassembled.To completely disassemble or assemble an engine,follow all the removal or installation instructions con-tained in the applicable engine chapter. If it is onlyto remove or install an individual part,refer tofrom the engine,or in the case of a complete overhaulthe applicable section.1. TROUBLE SHOOTINGTrouble shooting is the application of a definite procedure, in a logical sequence, to locate and eliminate thecause of trouble in a particular system or unit. Whentrouble shooting, first look for the obvious causes oftrouble, such as; an empty gas tank,gine, loose or disconnected wiring, or anythat may cause a temporary defect.a wet or cold enother itemThe various factors that affect power plant operationare outlined in this section.a. Engine.Poor engine performance can be attributed to theengine or to forces on the car that tend to retard itsmotion.For example, dragging brakes can cause the engine towork harder which will result in poor performance.Engine performance depends on proper fuel distribution, correctly timed ignition,normal and uniform compression, and an unobstructed flow of exhaust gases.Engine troubles, their causes, and remedies are discussed under appropriate headings.(1)ENGINE WILL NOT CRAISK. If the starterdoes not turn the engine over, or turns it over too slowlyto start, the most probable causes are a defective battery or starter. Perform the followingorder listed,until the trouble is located.checks in the(a) Check the Battery. Try the horn or lights. Ifthey do not operate properly, test the battery. Rechargeor replace the battery(b)as necessary.Check the Battery Cables. Check for looseor corroded connections at the starter, relay, battery,and ground. Clean, tighten or replace them as necessary.(c) Check the Starter Relay Circuit. The relaycontact surfaces seldom become so badly burned thatthey will prevent the starter from cranking the engine.However, other wiring may be at fault. Repair as necessary. Refer to Part THREE, "Electrical and Ac(d)Check the Starter or Starter Drive. If theabove components are not at fault, the trouble is probablyin the starter or starter drive. If the starter is running, but not engaging the flywheel, remove the starterand make the necessaryrepairs to the starter drive. Inrare cases, the starter drive may lock up with the flywheel. This can be corrected by loosening the starterand releasingthe starter drive. If the starter does notoperate, remove it and make the necessary repairs.(2) ENGINE CRANKS. BUT WILL NOT START.The trouble probably lies in either the ignition systemor the fuel system. The following test will determinewhich system is at fault:Remove the ignition wire from one spark plug, and

Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repairinsert a piece of proper sized metal rod so it protrudesfrom the insulator. With the ignition on and the starterturning the engine over, hold the end of the rodapproximately 3/16 inch from the block.CAUTION: On Fordomatic equipped cars, makesure the selector lever is in "N."Ii there is no spark, or if there is a weak spark,follow steps "a" or "b" whichever is applicable. If thereis a good spark, proceed with step "c."(a)No Spark. Follow the steps below to determinethe cause, and make the necessaryments.repairs or replace( 1 ) Pull the coil wire from the top of the distributor.Hold the wire316 inch from the cylinder head, andwith the ignition on and the engine turning over, checkfor a spark.CAUTION:On Fordomatic equipped cars, makesure the selector lever is in "/V."If a good spark is obtained, the trouble lies in eitherthe distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug wires. Makesure these components are clean, dry, and not defective.Make repairs or replacements as necessary.(2) If there was no spark in (1),clean the coiltower socket,or replace the high tension wire betweenthe coil and distributor, then repeat the check. If a weakspark exists, the points are probablyarcing. Test thecondenser and replace it if necessary. Adjust the points.If a weak spark persists, test the coil,necessary.(3) If there was no spark in (2),and replace it ifremove the distributor cap, and see if the points are "breaking" andif an electrical spark occurs at the points. Adjust orreplace the points as necessary. If there is a spark atthe points;install a "jumper" between the "DIST"terminal of the coil and the distributor,then check fora spark at the points. If there is a spark, replace thecoil to distributor primary wire. If there is no spark,crank the engine until the points are closed, then installa "jumper" on one of the primarycoil terminals andcheck for a spark at the other terminal. Replace the coilif there is now a spark. If there is no spark, install a"jumper"between the battery and the battery terminalof the coil, then check for a spark at the points. If aspark exists, the ignition switch or switch to coil wiringis defective and must be repaired or replaced.(b) Weak Spark. Perform the followingthe order listed:checks in( 1 ) The battery may be weak. Test the battery, thencharge,or replace it if necessary.(2) Remove the distributor cap, and adjust, clean,or replace the points as necessary. Severelypitted pointsusuallyindicate that the voltage regulator is improperlyset or the condenser is faulty.(3) Check the condition of the rotor, distributor cap,and plug wires. The wires must be clean, dry, and fullyseated in the terminals. Replace any damaged or corroded wires.(4) If the weak spark persists, test the coil,place it if necessary.and re(c) Good Spark. If there is a good spark, performthe following fuel system checks in the order given.(1) Check the fuel supplyat the fuel tank.(2) Check to see if fuel is reachingRemove the air cleaner,the carburetor.and look down the carburetorthroat while working the throttle by hand several times.Each time the throttle is actuated, fuel should spurtfrom the accelerator pump discharge nozzle. If there isfuel at this point, the engine is probably flooded orthere is water in the fuel system. If no fuel is observedat this point, disconnect the carburetor inlet line at thecarburetor. Using a suitable container to catch the fuel,crank the engine to see if fuel is reaching the inlet fitting.If fuel is reaching the inlet fitting,the trouble is in thecarburetor. Repair the carburetor as necessary. If nofuel is reaching the inlet fitting, the trouble is in thefuel pumpor the fuel pump inlet line is clogged.NOTE: Check the flexible fuel pump inlet line for acollapsed condition.Remove the fuel tank filler cap, then disconnect thefuel pump inlet line at the pump. Blow air into the lineto remove any obstructions. Connect the line and try tostart the engine. If the engine does not start,check thefuel pump pressure, then repair or replace the pumpas necessary.(3)ENGINE STARTS BUT FAILS TO KEEP RUNNING. Check the fuel system first. The ignition systemsometimes can cause trouble, but it is usually after theengine has run for some time and is at operatingtemperature.(a) Check the fuel supplyat the tank.(b) Try to start the engine. If the engine will operate with constant foot throttle, adjust the idle speedand check the choke adjustment.If it will not operate with constant foot throttle, checkthe fuel system as outlined in (2) (c).(c) If the fuel system is operating correctlyand theengine still stalls, it may be due to the coil or condenserbreaking down under operatingthese components,(4)temperature. Checkand replace them as necessary.ENGINE CONTINUALLY MISSES AT IDLE.When the engine continuallymisses on the same cylinders, the fault generally lies in the ignition system.(a) Isolate the miss by pulling one spark plug cableat a time from the plugs. Remove the plugs, then clean,inspect, and adjust them. Replace those that are badlyfouled or burned.(b) Check the spark plug wires for signs of deterioration and corrosion and replace them as necessary.(c) Remove the distributor cap and rotor, then clean,inspect, and replace them as necessary.

Section 1 Trouble Shooting(d) If the above steps do not correct the condition,check the compression to determine if it is satisfactoryand check the intake manifold passages for obstructions.(5) ENGINE MISSES ERRATICALLY AT IDLE.A miss of this type may be caused by a combination ofthings. Check the following in sequence:(a) Carburetor, including choke operation,ture setting, and fuel level.idle mix(b) The ignition system, starting with the sparkplugs. Make the necessary repairs.(c)The vacuum lines and fittings for leaks. Makeany necessary repairs.(d) Valve operation. Perform a compression test ifthe miss persists. Repair the engine as necessary.(6)ENGINE MISFIRES OR HESITATES ON ACCELERATION. This malfunction is usually a combination of faults in the ignition and fuel system, but alsocan be caused by the exhaust system. Check the following in sequence.(a) Check the operation of the exhaust gas controlvalve. If it is sticking, free it up or replace it as necessary.(b)Check the paint on the intake manifold heatriser passage. If the paint is not burned off, the passagemay beobstructed preventingthe carburetor fromproperly vaporizing the fuel.(c) Remove the spark plugs. Inspect, clean, andadjust the gap. Replace any plugs that are defective orlead-fouled.(d) Remove the distributor cap, and check the pointgap, distributor shaft clearance, condition of the camlobes, and the points. Make the necessary repairs orreplacements. Check the high tension wiringfor signsof deterioration, and make replacements or repairs asnecessary.(e)Check the coil and condenser. Replace them ifthey are defective.(f) Check the fuel pumppressure and adjust thecarburetor fuel level. Check the acceleratorpump actionand linkage.(g) If the problem still persists,perform a compression test, and check the valve lash. Check the valvespringrates and assembled height. Make repairs orreplacements as necessary.(7)ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULLPOWER. Lack of power is usually caused by poorcompression. However, some preliminary checks shouldbe made. Make sure the throttle opens all the way, andthe choke remains open. After preliminary checks aremade, perform the followinghas not been located:(a)the internaloperations if the troubleCheck the compression. This will indicate whethercomponents are operating properly.(b) If the compression checks within limits, checkthe ignition system, including initial timingbutor operation.and distri(c)If the compression and the ignition system aresatisfactory, check the fuel system, including carburetionand fuel pump pressure.(d) If the problem still exists,a check of mechanicalcomponents must be made. Check the valve lash,camlobe lift, and valve timing. Make the necessary repairs.b. Fuel System.The fuel system consists of the fuel tank, fuel pump,carburetor, and connectinglines. Dirt and other foreignmaterial are a major source of fuel system problems.Keepall components as clean as possible.(1) EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION. Faultycarburetion isusuallyresponsible for excessive fuelconsumption. However, the following preliminary checksshould be made:Check for fuel leaks in the system. Check choke operation and adjustment,and make certain the acceleratorlinkage is free. Check to see if the brakes are dragging.Adjust the carburetor.(a) Verifythe complaint with test equipment installed in the car. Show the customer how improperoperation of the car will affect fuel consumption.(b)If the test shows fuel consumption to be excessive, rebuild the carburetor. Since poor carburetion isusually a combination of internal malfunctions, it isusually not advisable to try to repair onlyone systemin the carburetor. Time will be saved by a completecarburetor overhaul.(2)CARURETOR FLOODS. Make a visual inspection of the carburetor for leaking gaskets or castingdefects. Tap the carburetor bowl. If the flooding stops,the inlet needle was held open by foreign material. Ifthe flooding persists, follow the steps below:(a)operation.Remove the air cleaner and check the choke(b) Check the fuel level, the condition of the carburetor float, and the fuel inlet needle and seat. Replaceany defective parts.(c) Check fuel pump pressure. If the pressure isexcessive, the pump was forcing fuel past the inletneedle and the pumpc.Cooling System.should be rebuilt or replaced.The coolingsystem is thermostatically controlled toregulate engine operating temperature and provide fora short engine warm-up period.(1) ENGINE OVERHEATS. Usually, engine overheating is the result of insufficient coolant supply. Checkthe coolant level first. Make certain that the cause oftrouble is not anti-freeze evaporation.(a) If the supply is low, check for leaks in the coolingsystem, then make the necessary repairs.(b) Check the water pump belt for proper tensionand adjust it if it is loose.

8 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repair(c) Inspect the radiator fins for obstructions (bugs,dirt, etc.). Clean it if it is clogged.(d) Using a thermometer in the radiator,gauge reading for accuracy.check theNOTE: Inaccurate readings are sometimes causedby insufficient clearance between the head casting andthe temperature sendingunit element. Make repairsor replacements as necessary.(e)Check the thermostat for proper operation andheat range. If it is defective or of the wrong heat range,replace it. Make sure the thermostat is correctlyinstalled.(f) Check the ignition timing and adjust it if necessary.(g)necessary.Check the radiator for proper flow. Flush it if(h) Remove the water pumpand check for a defective impeller or a water passage obstruction. Makerepairs or replacements as necessary.(i) Check the cylinder head(s) for water passageobstructions. Clean out the passages or replace thehead(s)if necessary.(j) Check the cylinder blockfor water passageobstructions. Clean out the passages or replace theblock if necessary.(2)ATING TEMPERATURE. Generally this is caused byENGINE FAILS TO REACH NORMAL OPERthe thermostat sticking or being of the wrong heat range.Check the thermostat first. If the engine still does notreach operating temperature,ingReplace any defective parts.check the gauge and sendunit with a thermometer installed in the radiator.2. TUNE-UPRegular maintenance and inspection services arenecessary for proper car operation. In addition, to maintain satisfactory performance, a periodic engine tune-upshould be made.A reliable type of engine test equipment should beused to perform the tests. As the checks and tests aremade, make a visual inspection of the wiring, vacuumhoses, cooling system hoses, heater hoses, etc.a. Minor Tune-Up.Perform the following operations in the order given.(1) INSPECT IGNITION WIRES, BATTERYCABLES, AND CHECK THE CONDITION OF THEBATTERY. Inspect all ignition wires for worn or damaged insulation. Make sure the wires are firmly seated inthe distributor cap and that the terminals and terminalsockets are free from corrosion.Inspect the batterycase for cracks and leaks. Makea battery capacity test. If unsatisfactory, make a batterycharge test. If the charge is low, recharge the battery.Inspect the battery cable connections for corrosion, andclean.them if necessary. Brush the cable connectors withgrease to retard further corrosion, then tighten the connectors securely.(2)batteryingTEST CYLINDER COMPRESSION. Be sure theis good. Operate the engine until normal operattemperature is reached. Turn the ignition switch off.Remove all spark plugs.Set the throttle in the wide open position and be surethe choke is wide open. Install a compression gauge innumber 1cylinder. Crank the engine until the gaugeregisters a maximum readingand record the reading.Note the number of compression strokes required toobtain this reading. Repeat the test on each cylinder,crankingthe engine the same number of strokes as wasrequired to obtain a maximum readingcylinder.on number 1A variation of10 pounds from specified pressure issatisfactory.However, the compression of all cylindersshould be uniform within 10 pounds.A reading of more than 10 pounds above normal indicates carbon or lead deposits in the cylinder.A reading of more than 10 pounds below normal indicates leakage at the head gasket, rings, or valves.A low even compression in two adjacent cylindersindicates a head gasket leak. This should be checkedbefore condemning the rings or valves.To determine whether the rings or the valves are atfault, put a tablespoon of heavy oil on the piston, andrepeat the compression test. The oil will temporarily sealleakage past the rings. If the same reading is obtained,the rings are satisfactory, but the valves are leaking. Ifthe compression has increased 10 pounds or more overthe original reading, it indicates there is leakage pastthe rings.During a compression test, if the pressure fails toclimb steadily and remains the same during the first twosuccessive strokes, but climbs higher on the succeedingstrokes, or fails to climb during the entire test, it indicates a sticky or stuck valve.(3) CLEAN, ADJUST, AND INSTALL THE SPARKPLUGS. Sandblast the spark plugs, wipe the porcelainclean, file the electrode tips flat, and adjust the sparkgap. Test the plugs in an approved spark plug tester-Inspect the plugs for broken or chipped porcelain andbadly burned electrodes. Replace all defective plugs.Install the spark plugs and tighten them to the specifiedtorque.(4) CHECK THE DISTRIBUTOR. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Inspect the breaker points forpitting and burning. Replace defective points. Cleanand install the distributor cap and rotor.(5) CHECK IGNITION TIMING. Disconnect the dis-

Section 2 Engine Tune-Uptributor vacuum line. Operate the engine at idle speed.Check the timing with a timing light and make thenecessary adjustments. Connect the distributor vacuumline.(6) CHECK MANIFOLD VACUUM AND ADJUSTCARBURETOR IDLE. Check the manifold vacuum atthe specified idle speed.If the vacuum is lower than specified, check for leakage at the vacuum lines and intake manifold. Check thecarburetor idle adjustment.If the vacuum is still below normal or is erratic, it isan indication of bad rings, sticky valves, weak valvesprings, or a head gasket leak.Set the engine idle speed and the carburetor idle fueladjustment as outlined in Chapter IV.(7) CLEAN THE AIR CLEANER AND THE FUELFILTER. Clean the air cleaner, and oil the element. Ifthe air cleaner is the oil bath-type, fill to the indicatedlevel with engine oil of the specified viscosity.On passenger cars, remove and clean the fuel pumpbowl. Install a new filter element.On Thunderbirds,new filter element.(8)clean the fuel line filter. Install aCHECK THE DEFLECTION OF THE DRIVEBELTS. Check the deflection of all drive belts (fan,air conditioning,sary adjustments.b. Major Tune-Up.Perform the followingand power steering). Make the necesoperations in the order given.(1)Clean the battery terminals and cable connectors. Inspect the battery case for cracks and leaks. Make abattery capacity test. If unsatisfactory, make a batteryBATTERY. Remove the cables from the battery.charge test. If the charge is low, recharge the "battery.Replace deteriorated connectors and cables that haveworn insulation. Brush the cable connectors with greaseto retard further corrosion. Connect the cables to thebattery.CHECK THE GENERATOR AND REGULA(2)TOR. Follow the procedures outlined in Part THREE,"Electrical and(3)Accessories."TEST SPARK INTENSITY. Determine if thespark from each plug wire will jump a 3/16 inch gap, asfollows:Remove one spark plug wire,and install a terminaladapter in the wire terminal. Hold the end of theadapter approximately 3/16inch from the cylinder head.Run the engine at idle speed. The spark should jumpthe regularly.gapRepeat the test on each lead.If the spark is unsatisfactory at all spark plugs,trouble exists in the coil, condenser, rotor or cap, internally in the distributor, or in the external primarycircuit.If the spark is unsatisfactory at some,but not all ofthe spark plug wires, the trouble is in the wire itself,the wire is not seated in the housing socket, or thedistributor cap is corroded.(4)TEST CYLINDER COMPRESSION. Follow theprocedure under "a. Minor Tune-Up."(5) CLEAN, ADJUST, AND INSTALL SPARKPLUGS. Sandblast the spark plugs, wipe the porcelainclean, file the electrode tips flat, and adjust the gap.Test the plugs in an approved tester. Inspect the plugsfor broken or chipped porcelain and badly burnedelectrodes. Replace all defective plugs. Install the plugsand tighten them to the specified torque.(6)CHECK MANIFOLD BOLT TORQUE. Tightenthe intake and exhaust manifold bolts and nuts to 23-28foot-pounds torque.(7) TEST COIL AND CONDENSER. If the sparkintensity (3) is satisfactory, it will not be necessary totest the coil and condenser. However, if the spark isnot satisfactory,test these parts on a test unit to determine which one is defective. Follow the instructions ofthe test unit manufacturer.(8) INSPECT BREAKER POINTS AND TESTTHE DISTRIBUTOR. Inspect the distributor pointsfor pits, excessive metal transfer,and burned spots.Test the vacuum advance and make adjustments,repairs, or replacements as required. Set the point gapto specifications. After setting the gap,check the pointdwell. If the dwell angle is not to specifications, thedistributor cam is worn or the point assembly is defective. Replace all defective parts. Lubricate the distributor cam lightlywith distributor cam lubricant.(9)CLEAN AND INSPECT THE DISTRIBUTORCAP. Inspect the capfor cracks or other damage. Remove all corrosion from the terminal housing sockets.(10)CHECK IGNITION TIMING. Disconnect thevacuum line between the distributor and carburetorand operate the engine at idle speed. Check the timingwith a timing light and make the necessary adjustments.Connect the distributor vacuum line after completingthe adjustment and check ignition advance as the engine is accelerated.(11)CHECK AND ADJUST VALVE LASH. Checkand adjust the valve lash after the engine is thoroughlywarmed up.(12)TEST MANIFOLD VACUUM. Check the manifold vacuum at the specified idle speed.If the vacuum is lower than specified, check for leakage at the vacuum lines and intake manifold. Check thecarburetor idle adjustment.If the vacuum is still below normal or is erratic, itis an indication of bad rings, sticky valves, weak valvesprings, or a leaking head gasket. If this condition exists,it should be reported to the customer.

10 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repair(13)TEST FUEL PUMP PRESSURE AND CAPACITY. The static pressure should be 3.5-5.5 p.s.i. at500 r.p.m. The capacity should be 1 pint in 30 secondsat 500 r.p.m.(14) TEST BOOSTER PUMP VACUUM. Thebooster pump vacuum should be 10.0 inches of mercuryat 500 r.p.m. The vacuum should not drop rapidly whenthe engine is stopped.(15)INSPECT AND CLEAN THE FUEL FILTER.On passenger cars, remove and clean the fuel pumpbowl. Install a new filter element.On Thunderbirds,new filter element.clean the fuel line filter. Install a(16) CLEAN THE CARBURETOR. Disassembleand clean the carburetor. Set the fuel level,the accelerator pump operation.and check(17) CLEAN THE AIR CLEANER. Clean the aircleaner and the element. If the air cleaner is the oilbath-type, fill to the indicated level with engine oil ofthe specified viscosity.(18)ADJUST CARBURETOR IDLE. Set the engine idle speed and the carburetor idle fuel adjustmentas outlined in Chapter IV.(19) EXHAUST ANALYSIS. On dual exhaustequipped cars, connect the analyzer tube to the leftmuffler outlet pipe.Inasmuch as there are several types of analyzers,follow the instructions of the manufacturer.(20) CHECK THE DEFLECTION OF THE DRIVEBELTS. Check the deflection of all drive belts (fan, airconditioning, and power steering). Make the necessaryadjustments.(21)ROAD TEST. Road test the car as a final checkon the work performed. Also, notice the performanceof the transmission, axle, brakes, and any optionalaccessories. Recommend any additional service requiredwhen the car is delivered to the owner.3. ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATIONSeparate procedures are given for the conventionalpassenger car and the Thunderbird.a. Conventional Passenger Car.The following procedures applyto all conventionalpassenger cars. Differences in the procedures peculiarto cars equipped with an 8 or 6-cylinder engine arenoted when they exist.The procedures given are for the engine only, withoutthe transmission attached. Engine compartment tolerances make it impractical to remove or install the engine with the transmission attached.(1)REMOVAL. If the car is equipped with a standard or overdrive transmission, follow steps (a) and(c). If the car is equipped with Fordomatic, followsteps (b)and (c).(a)Steps Peculiar To A Standard Or OverdriveTransmission. Disconnect the clutch release spring.Remove the screws retaining the equalizer bar supportto the flywheel housing, then remove the support andbushing. Disconnect the accelerator linkage at the manifold bell crank. Remove the two flywheel housing upperbolts. Remove the flywheel housing cover,support thetransmission with a jack, then remove the remainingflywheel housing bolts.(b)Steps Peculiar To Fordomatic Disconnectthe transmission throttle linkage at the cross shaft, andtie the linkage to the dash panel. Remove the idler armbracket. Fold back the floor mat, remove the two rubberplugs, then remove the two converter housingto engineRemoveupper bolts. Jack up the front of the car and positionsafety stands. Support the transmission with a jack, thenremove the remaining converter housing to engine bolts.the converter housing lower accesscover, thenturn the flywheel till the flywheel drive plate is in position to remove the three bolts. Turn the flywheel 180,then remove the other three bolts.CAUTION: After the bolts are removed from theconverter drive plate, turn the drive plate 90 so theflex plates will not catch on the converter housingwhen the engine is removed.Drain the transmission. Remove the bracket thatsecures the transmission oil level indicator tube to theengine. Disconnect the tube at the transmission oil pan,then remove the tube assembly. Remove the transmission control linkage splash shield from the cylinderblock, then remove the oil filter.(c)coolingEngine Removal. Remove the hood. Drain thesystem and the crankcase. Remove the heaterhoses. Remove the heater inlet duct and the heaterblower motor.Remove the radiator upper and lower hoses, thenremove the radiator. Remove the fan. Disconnect thebattery ground cable at the cylinder block,and theflex fuel line at the fuel pump.Disconnect the windshield wiper vacuum hose, temperature sending unit wire, and the oil pressure sendingunit wire. Disconnect the primarywire at the coil.Remove the starter cable at the starter, then remove thestarter. Disconnect the ground cable from the rear ofthe engine. Remove the air cleaner, then tape the airhorn closed. Disconnect the choke cable at the carburetor. Disconnect the accelerator linkage.Disconnect the muffler inlet pipes at the exhaustmanifold.

Section 3 Engine Removal and Installation 11Too/-T52L-6000-CTool- 1 541-6005-D (SPLINED SHAFT)Tool T54L-6005-E (KEYED SHAFT) 6302Fig. 3 Engine Mount 8-Cylinder EngineOn 6-cylinder engines, remove the left insulator tobracket bolts at the insulator, and the right bracketFig. J Lifting Hook 6-Cylinder EngineAttach the engine lifting hook(s) (fig. 1move the right and left front splash aprons.or 2). ReOn 8-cylinder engines, remove the retainer and lowerinsulator from the engine front steady rest.On 6-cylinder engines, loosen the two engine frontsteady rest to spacer bolts. Raise the car and positionsafety stands.On 8-cylinder engines, remove the engine left insulator. Remove the capscrews from the engine rightinsulator at the engine.bolts at the engine.Raise the engine slightly, then carefully pull it fromthe transmission. Carefully lift the engine out of theengine compartment. Do not let the engine swing againstthe grille.Install the engine on a work stand (fig. 3 or 4).(2)INSTALLATION. If the car is equipped with astandard or overdrive transmission, follow steps (a),(b), and (d). If the car is equipped with Fordomatic,follow steps (a), (c), and (d).(a)Engine Installation. Install the appropriateengine lifting hook, then remove the engine from thework stand.CAUTION: On Fordomatic equipped cars, makesure the flywheel drive plate is turned so the flexplate will not catch on the converter housing.Lower the engine carefully into the engine compartment.Tool-T53L-300-AOn 8-cylinder engines, lower the engine until the oilpumpto oil pan line clears the engine left support.Start the transmission main drive gear into the clutchToolT53L-6000-BToolT52T6005-CJD (Splined ShaToolT52T-^>005-KJD (Keyed Shaft)Fig. 2 Lifting Hooks and Sling 8-Cylinder Engine6304Fig. 4 Engine Mount Adapter 6-Cylinder Engine6289

up"12 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repairdisc. On Fordomatic units, start the converter pilot intothe crankshaft.NOTE: On standard or overdrive units, it may benecessary to adjust the position ofwith relation to the engineifshaft will not enter the clutch disc. If"hangsthe transmissionthe transmission inputthe engineafter the shaft enters, turn the crankshaft slowly (with the transmission in gear) untilthe shaft splines mesh with the clutch disc splines.Make sure the studs on the manifolds of both the 6and 8-cylinder engines are aligned with the holes in themuffler inlet pipe(s)and the dowels in the block engagethe holes in the clutchhousing (on Fordomatic units theblock dowels must engage the holes on the converterhousing).NOTE: Level the engine crosswise in relation to theframe before installing the mountingbolts or thesteady rest.On the 6-cylinder engine, install the left insulator tobracket lockwashers and bolts and the right bracket toengine lockwashers and bolts. Tighten the insulator tobracket bolts to 45-50 foot-pounds torque. Tighten theengine front steady rest to spacer bolts to 30-35 footpounds torque.On the 8-cylinder engine, align the holes in the engine left support insulator with the mounting holes inthe block, then install the insulator to engine bolts andthe frame to insulator lockwashers and nuts. Install theright insulator to engine lockwashers and bolts. Tightenthe insulator to engine bolts to 45-50 foot-pounds torqueand the frame to insulator nuts to 50-60 foot-poundstorque. Install the engine front steady rest lower insulator and retainer. Tighten the retainer bolt to 23-28foot-pounds torque. Install the right and left front splashaprons.Connect the manifold (s) to the muffler inlet pipe(s).Install the starter, then connect the starter cable (except Fordomatic). Connect the ground cable to therear of the engine, the temperature sending unit andoil pressure sending unit wires, the generator wires, andthe ignition switch wire to the coil. Connect the ignitionswitch wire to the engine clips. Connect the acceleratorlinkage and the choke wire (6-cylinder engine).Connect the windshield wiper line and the fuel pumpvacuum line. Connect the fuel pump flexible line. Installthe fan assembly, then adjust the fan belt.Install the radiator and connect the radiator hoses.Connect the batteryground cable to the engine. Removethe tape from the carburetor air horn and install theair cleaner. Install the heater blower motor and theheater inlet duct, then connect the heater hoses.Install the hood. Fill the coolingcrankcase.(b)system and theConnect Standard Or Overdrive Transmission. Install the bushings in the equalizer bar support,then install the support on the flywheel housing. Installthe transmission to flywheel housing bolts,and tightenthem to 40-50 foot-pounds torque. Install the flywheelhousingcover. Connect the clutch release spring.Remove the jack supporting the transmission. Checkthe clutch pedal free travel (lH-l3/8 inches)it if necessary.and adjust(c)Connect Fordomatic Transmission. Installthe two converter housing to engine lower bolts,andtighten them to 40-45 foot-pounds torque.NOTE: Tighten the bolts slowly andevenlyto avoidonbinding the dowel pins.Install the two converter housing to engine upperbolts, and tighten them to 40-45 foot-pounds torque.Install the floor pan plugs. Align the flywheel and driveplate holes with the converter, then install the six bolts,and tighten them to 25-28 foot-pounds torque.Install the starter, and tighten the bolts to 15-20foot-pounds torque. Install the transmission oil levelindicator tube assembly. Install the idler arm andbracket. Tighten the idler arm bracket nuts to 28-43foot-pounds torque. Install the converter housing loweraccess covers.Install and connect the throttle linkage and make thenecessary linkage adjustments. Remove the jack supportingthe transmission. Fill the transmission withAutomatic Transmission Fluid Type A, following therecommeneded procedure.(d)Check Engine For Oil Or Coolant Leaks.Run the engine at fast idle and check all gaskets andhose connections for leaks.b. Thunderbird.mayOn Fordomatic equipped Thunderbirds, the engineattached.be removed with or without the transmission(1) REMOVAL. To remove the engine from aThunderbird equipped with a standard or overdrivetransmission, follow steps(a)and (c). To remove theengine from a Thunderbird equipped with Fordomatic,follow steps (b)and (c). To remove the engine andFordomatic as an assembly, follow steps (c)and (d).(a) Steps Peculiar To A Standard Or OverdriveTransmission. Disconnect the clutch release spring.Remove the screws retaining the equalizer bar supportto the flywheel housing, then remove the support andbushing. Remove the two flywheel housingupper bolts.Remove the flywheel housing cover,support the transmission with a jack, then remove the remaining flywheelhousing bolts.(b) Steps Peculiar To Fordomatic. Disconnectthe transmission throttle linkage at the cross shaft, andtie the linkage to the dash panel. Remove the idler armbracket.Jack up the front of the car and position safety stands.

up"Section 3 Engine Removal and Installation 13Support the transmission with a jack,then remove theconverter housing to engine bolts. Remove the converterhousing lower access cover, then turn the flywheel tillthe flywheel drive plate is in position so the three boltscan be removed. Turn the flywheel 180, then removethe other three bolts.CAUTION: After the bolts are removed from theconverter drive plate, turn the drive plate 90 sothe flex plates will not catch on the converter housingwhen the engine is removed.Drain the transmission. Remove the bracket thatsecures the transmission oil level indicator tube to theengine. Disconnect the tube at the transmission oil panand remove the tube assembly. Remove the transmission control linkage splash shield.(c) Engine Removal. Remove the hood. Drain thecooling system and the crankcase. Remove the fan, thenremove the radiator and shroud as an assembly. Removethe air cleaner. Disconnect the engine ground wire atthe dash panel. Disconect the batterythe engine and the battery to starter relayground cable atcable at thebattery. Disconnect the vacuum pump line, and thefuel inlet at the fuel pump. Disconnect the starter cableat the starter solenoid, then remove the cable clampat the dash panel. Disconnect the ignition switch to coilwire at the coil. Disconnect the two heater hoses. Remove the generator wires. Remove the wires from theoil pressure sending unit and the temperature sendingunit. Remove the heater blower assembly. Disconnectthe tachometer cable. Disconnect the accelerator rod,then disconnect the link bracket at the blockbracket also serves as the ignition cable bracket).Raise the car and position safety(thisstands. Disconnectthe exhaust pipes at the exhaust manifolds. Remove theengine front mount bolt, nut, and lower insulator. Remove the engine right and left steady rest bracket boltsat the engine,then turn the brackets to one side so theengine will clear them upon removal.Remove the safety stands and lower the car. Installthe engine lifting hooks (fig. 2). Raise the engineslightly, then carefullymission. Carefullycompartment.pull the engine from the translift the engine out of the engineInstall the engine on a work stand (fig. 3).(d)And Fordomatic As An Assembly. While the car isSteps Peculiar To Removing The Engineraised in step (c),perform the following additionaloperations :Drain the transmission. Disconnect the shift controllinkage at the transmission and the throttle control rod.Disconnect the speedometer cable. Remove the driveshaft, and plug the transmission with an extension housingcap. Remove the converter air duct assembly. Remove the bracket that secures the transmission oil levelindicator tube to the engine. Disconnect the tube at thetransmission oil pan, then remove the tube assembly.Remove the engine rear mount bolt, raise the transmission, then remove the cross member that serves as theengine rear mount.Remove the transmission jack and lower the car.Install the engine lifting hooks. Raise the engine slightly,then carefully pull the engine and transmission forward.Carefully lift the engine and transmission from theengine compartment.(2) INSTALLATION. To install the engine in aThunderbird equipped with a standard or overdrivetransmission, follow steps (a), (b), (e), and (f). To install the engine only in a Fordomatic equipped Thunderbird, follow steps (a), (c), (e),and (f). To install theengine and Fordomatic as an assembly, follow steps (a),(d),(e),and(f).(a) Engine Installation. Install the engine liftinghooks, then remove the engine from the work stand.CAUTION : On Fordomatic equipped cars, make surethe flywheel drive plate is turned so the flex plateswill not catch on the converter housing.Lower the engine carefully into the engine compartment.Start the transmission main drive gear into the clutchdisc. On Fordomatic units, start the converter pilot intothe crankshaft.NOTE: On standard or overdrive units, it may benecessary to adjust the position of the transmissionwith relation to the engine, if the input shaft will notenter the clutch disc. If the engine "hangs afterthe shaft enters, turn the crankshaft slowly (withthe transmission in gear) until the shaft splines meshwith the clutch disc splines.Make sure the studs on the manifolds are alignedwith the holes in the muffler inlet pipes, and the dowelsin the block engage the holes in the clutchhousing (onFordomatic units the block dowels must engage theholes on the converter housing).Raise the car and position safetystands. Install theengine front support lower insulator, bolt, lockwasher,and nut. Tighten the insulator mounting nut to 85-95foot-pounds torque. Install the engine right and leftsteady rest bracket bolts, and tighten the bolts to 45-50foot-pounds torque.NOTE: If the rod assembly adjustment of eithersteady rest was disturbed during engine removal,adjust the rod as outlined in step (e).Connect the exhaust pipes to the exhaust manifolds.Remove the safetystands and lower the car.Connect the accelerator rod, then connect the accelerator link bracket to the block. Connect the tachometercable. Install the heater blower assembly. Install theoil pressure sending unit and the temperature sendingunit wires. Connect the generator wires. Connect thetwo heater hoses. Connect the ignition switch to coil

14 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and RepairInstall the starter and tighten the bolts to 15-20 footpounds torque. Install the transmission oil filler tubeassembly. Install the idler arm and bracket. Tighten theidler arm bracket nuts to 28-43 foot-pounds torque.Install the converter housing lower access covers.Install and connect the throttle linkage, and makethe necessary linkage adjustments. Remove the jacksupporting the transmission. Fill the transmission withAutomatic Transmission Fluid-Type A, following therecommended procedure.(d)Install The Engine And Fordomatic As AnAssembly. While the car is raised in step (a), performthe followingadditional operations:Jack up the transmission. Install the engine rearmount. Lower the transmission,then install the enginerear mount bolt. Install the converter air duct assembly.Install the transmission oil level indicator tube assembly.Remove the extension housing cap from the transmis6512Fig. 5Steady Rest Adjustment Thunderbirdwire. Install the starter cable clamp on the dash panel,and connect the starter cable to the starter. Connect thewindshield wiper line and the flexible fuel line. Connectthe batteryground cable and the starter solenoid cable.Connect the engine ground wire. Install the air cleaner.Install the radiator and shroud, then install the fan.Install the hood. Fill the cooling system. Fill the crankcase with the correct quantity and grade of engine oil.(b)Connect Standard Or Overdrive Transmission. Install the bushings in the equalizer bar support,then install the support on the flywheel housing. Installthe transmission to flywheel housing bolts,and tightenthem to 40-50 foot-pounds torque. Install the flywheelhousing cover. Connect the clutch release spring.Remove the jack supporting the transmission. Checkthe clutch pedal free travel (IVs-IVs inches). Adjustthe free play, if necessary.(c)Connect Fordomatic Transmission. Installthe two converter housing to engine lower bolts,andtighten them to 40-45 foot-pounds torque.NOTE: Tighten the bolts slowly and evenlyto avoidonbinding the dowel pins.Install the converter housing to engine bolts andtighten them to 40-45 foot-pounds torque. Align theflywheel and drive plate holes with the converter, installthe six bolts, and tighten them to 25-28 foot-poundstorque.sion, and install the drive shaft. Connect the speedometer cable. Connect the shift control linkage and thethrottle control rod. Fill the transmission with Automatic Transmission Fluid-Type A, followingmended procedure.(e)the recomEngine Steady Rest Adjustment. If the engine steady rests are not properly adjusted, the enginewill be tilted and excessive engine vibration may result.It is good practice, therefore, to check the adjustment ofthe rod assemblies, at each engine installation. Thedimensions are illustrated in fig. 5. If the rods are out ofadjustment follow the procedure below:With the engine steady rest support brackets in placeand properly tightened (at the engine and chassis),loosen the rod lower and upper nuts on both steadyrests. Let the engine seek its own level position. Turnthe rod assembly lower nut, washer, and insulator ofeach steady rest up against the lower (chassis) supportbracket. Tighten the lower nut to the dimension shownin fig. 5.Turn the lower nut, washer, and insulator at the topof each rod assembly up against the engine supportbracket. Tighten the nut to the dimension shown in fig.5. Turn the upper nut, washer, and insulator at the topof the rod assembly down against the engine supportbracket. Tighten the nut to the dimension shown in fig.5. Check the adjustment of the top portion of the rodassembly by measuring the over-all dimension as indicated in fig. 5.(f)Check The Engine For Oil Or CoolantLeaks. Run the engine at fast idle and check all gasketsand hose connections for leaks.4. INTAKE AND EXHAUST MANIFOLDSa.Cleaningand Inspection.Wash grease, oil, and dirt from the outside of theexhaust manifolds. Clean the mating surfaces and check

Section 4 Intake and Exhaust Manifolds15(HEAT OFF)6338. OPEN(HEAT OFF)6337Fig. 6Exhaust Control ValveSingle Exhaust Systemthem for damage. Repair or replace the manifolds asnecessary.On the intake manifold, check the fuel-air and theheat riser passages for foreign material. Inspect thesurfaces for cracks or other visible defects. Repair orFig. 7 Exhaust Control Valve Dual Exhaust Systemever, a properly operating valve will open when verylight finger pressure is applied to the counterweight.Rapidlyaccelerate the engine to make sure the valvemomentarily opens. The valve is designed to open whenthe engine is at normal operating temperature and isoperated at high r.p.m. Free stuck valves with a penetrating oil or kerosene and graphite mixture. CLOSEDreplace the manifolds as necessary.CAUTION: Remove all filings and foreign matterthat may have entered the manifolds as a result ofrepair work.(HEAT ON)b. Exhaust Gas Control Valve.Check the valve spring to make sure it is hooked onthe stop pin. The spring stop is at the topof the valvehousing when the valve is properly installed. The actionand 8.of the valves is illustrated in figs. 6, 7,holds the valve closedCheck to make sure the springwhen the engine is cold. Actuate the counterweight byhand to make sure it moves freely through approxiOPEN90mately of rotation without binding.The valve is closed when the engine is at normaloperating temperature and running at idle speed. How-Fig. 8 Exhaust Control Valve 6-Cylinder Engine64785. ROCKER MECHANISM, CYLINDER HEAD,VALVES,1VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT, AND VALVE TIMINGThis section covers the inspection and repair proce The rocker mechanism parts are individually replacedures applicable to the rocker mechanism, cylinder able.head,and valves. In addition, the methods used to adjust the (1) CLEANING AND INSPECTION. Check the I. D.valve lash and to check valve timingare given. of the rocker arm bore and the O. D. of the rocker armshaft at the location of the rocker arms. Inspect thea. Rocker Mechanism. rocker arms for grooved pads. Check the rocker adjust-

16 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repair(1)CLEANING AND INSPECTION. With thevalves installed to protect the valve seats, remove carbon deposits from the combustion chamber and valveheads with a scraper and a wire brush. Be careful not toHolding fixture'PUSH RODFig. 9 Push Rod Runout Check6263scratch the gasket surface. Clean the heads with solventto remove old gasket sealer, dirt, and grease.Check the head for cracks. Check the gasket surfacefor burrs, nicks, and for flatness (fig. 10). Service speciing screws and lock nuts for stripped or broken threads,and the ball end of the screw for nicks and scratches orexcessive wear.Inspect the locatingof failure.springs for cracks or other signsInspect the oil drain tube for cracks or sharp bends.Check the ball end and socket end of the push rods fornicks, grooves, roughness, or excessive wear.A suitable check for bent push rods can be madewhile they are installed in the engine by rotating them(valve closed)or they can be checked between balland cupcenters with a dial indicator (fig. 9).If the total runout of a push rod exceeds 0.020 inch,at any point, discard the rod. Do not attempt tostraighten it.(2) REPAIRS. If the clearance between the shaftand rocker arms is excessive, replace the shaft and/orthe rocker arms. Replace all rocker arms that haveseverelyscored or scuffed bores and/or grooved pads.Replace all scored or scuffed rocker shafts. Dress upminor nicks or scratches. Replace all damaged adjustingscrews, lock nuts, and springs.Replace the oil drain tube if it is cracked or has asharp bend.b. Cylinder Heads.To protect the machined surfaces of the cylinderheads, do not remove the holding fixtures while theheads are off the engine.fications for flatness are 0.006 inch maximum over all,or 0.003 in any six inches. Make sure all water passagesare open. Check the cylinder head core plug for evidenceof leakage.(2) REPAIRS. Replace the head if it cracked, or ifit is damaged beyond repair.NOTE: Do not plane or grind excessive materialfrom the cylinder head gasket surface as the compression ratio is altered when this operation isperformed.Remove all burrs or scratches with an oil stone.Replace any core plugs that show signs of leakage.(3)SPARK PLUG HOLE ADAPTERS. If it is desired to use standard 14 millimeter spark plugs, anadapter is available which reduces the 18 millimeterhole to 14 millimeters. The adapter installation procedure is as follows:Position a sparkplug gasket on a standard 14 millimeter plug and install the plug in an adapter. Insertthe spark plug and adapter assembly into the 18 millimeter hole and tighten the plug to 25-30 foot-poundstorque. This torque is sufficient to seal the adapter inplace and it will not back out when the spark plug isremoved. Once the adapters are installed,standard 14millimeter sparkplug gap and torque specificationsapply.c Valve Mechanism.Valve guides are made integral with the cylinderheads. Valves with oversized stems are available asreplacements if it becomes necessary to ream the valveguides.(1) CLEANING AND INSPECTION. Discard umbrella-type valve stem seals, and replace with new seals.Scrape and/or wire brush carbon from the head andstem of the valves and from the inside of the guides.Remove varnish from the valve stems. Carefully cleanall carbon from the valve seat with a fine wire brush.(T),Fig. 10 Checkingcheck diagonally(5) CHECK ACROSS CENTER 6601Flatness of the Cylinder Head GasketSurfaceTypicalCheck the valve for evidence of imperfect seating,heavy discoloration, burning or erosion, or warpage.Check the valve face runout (fig. 11),and also checkthe face for pits and grooves. Inspect the ends of thevalve stem for grooves or scores.

S-8680Section 5 Rocker Mechanism, Cylinder Head, Valves, Valve Lash Adjustment, and Valve Timing 17REFERTOSPECIFICATIONS6602Fig. 11 Valve Face Runout Check6266Fig. 7 3 Valve Spring Squareness CheckInspect the valve springs for signs of failure. Checkthe valve spring for proper pressure (fig. 12)andsquareness (fig. 13).Check the valve spring retainers, locks, and sleevesfor wear or signs of failure.Check the valve stem clearance of each valve in itsrespective valve guide .as shown in fig. 14. Install thetool on the valve stem until fullyseated and tighten theset screw, then permit the valve to drop away fromits seat until the tool contacts the upper surface of theValve SpringTestervalve guide. Position a dial indicator with a flat tipagainst the center portion of the spherical section of thetool at approximately 90 to the valve stem. Movethe tool back and forth on a plane that parallels normalrocker action and take the indicator reading withoutlifting the tool from the valve guide upper surface.Divide the indicator reading by 2 (division factor of thetool)to obtain the actual stem clearance.Check the valve seat runout and the valve seat widthas shown in figs. 15 and 16.(2) REPAIRS. Discard any defective valves, springs,locks, retainers, or sleeves.(a) Refacing Valves. If the valve face runout isexcessive, grind the valve face at a 45 angle on aTool-Dial IndicatorPRESSUREREADING6267Fig. 12Valve Spring Pressure Check 6479Fig. 14Valve Stem Clearance Check Typical

18 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and RepairRunout,GaugeVn"MINIMUMMAXIMUM VALVEFACE RUNOUT0.002REFER TO SPECIFICATIONSFOR CORRECT DIAMETERZ LCHECK FOR BENT STEMFig. 17Critical Valve Tolerances Typical6480Tool-for Removing andInstalling Pilot6603Fig. 15Valve Seat Runout Check Typicalprecision valve grinder. Follow the instructions of theequipment manufacturer. Grind off onlyenough stockto remove pits and grooves. If the edge of the valvehead is less than y32 inch thick after grinding, replacethe valve. If the runout still exceeds specifications aftergrinding, check the equipment used in the grindingoperation.Grind all grooves or score marks from the end of thevalve stem. Do not remove more than 0.010 inch fromthe stem.The critical tolerances of the valve are illustrated infig. 17.(b) Refacing Valve Seats. Grind the valve seat(fig. 18) to a true 45 angle. Remove only enough stockto clean up pits or grooves. If the valve seat widthexceeds specifications, remove just enough stock fromthe top and/or bottom edge of the seat to reduce theAfter refacing valves and seats, it is good practice tolightly lap in the valves with a medium grade lappingcompound to match the seats.(c)Select Fitting Valves. Oversize valves with astem diameter of 0.003, 0.015, and 0.030 inch are available. Occasionally the 0.003 inch oversize valve is usedin production in one or more positions.If the valve to guide stem clearance is excessive andthe diameter of the valve stem is on the lower limit (asdetermined by measuring the valve stem with a micrometer), select a new valve with a stem diameter on theupper limit. If in the use of standard valves the clearance cannot be reduced to a satisfactory limit, reamthe valve guide (fig. 20) for the next oversize valvestem.d. Valve Lash Adjustment.Reference is made in the procedures for a preliminary(cold)valve lash adjustment to placing number 1piston ontop dead center(T.D.C.)at the end of thecompression stroke. Number 1 piston is on T.D.C. atwidth to specifications. Use a 30 angle wheel to remove stock from the bottom of the seat and a 60 anglewheel to remove stock from the top (fig. 19). Keepthe seat as near to the center of the valve face aspossible. Place Prussian Blue on the valve seat andinstall the valve to check the point of contact.Seat Width Scale30ANGLE WHEELFOR BOTTOM OF SEAT60ANGLE WHEELFOR TOP OF SEAT66046605Fig.16Measuring Valve Seat Width TypicalFig. 18Refacing Valve Seat Typical

Section 5 Rocker Mechanism, Cylinder Head, Valves, Valve Lash Adjustment, and Valve Timing 19REFER TO SPECIFICATIONSVALVE SEATFig. J9-Va/ve Seat Width6292the end of the compression stroke when both valves areclosed and the timing mark on the crankshaft damper isin line with the timing pointer.Step- type feeler gauges ("go" and "no go")can beused to obtain the proper clearance (fig. 21).Valve lash is adjusted bymeans of the set screw andFig. 20 Reaming Valve Guides Typical539lock nut located on the push rod end of the rocker arm.It is very important that the lash of all valves beheld as close as possible to the correct specifications. Ifthe lash is set too close,rough engine idle and poorengine performance can result. If the valve lash is excessive, valve action noise will result, and engine performance will be affected.NOTE: The preliminaryand final valve lash adjustment specification (intake and exhaust) for all engines is 0.019If the cylinder head or the rocker mechanism hasbeen removed and installed, it will be necessary to makea preliminary (cold)valve lash adjustment before starting the engine. If the adjustment is made for the purpose of engine tune-up, omit step (a)and proceed withstepunder(b) the procedure for the applicable engine.6-CYLINDER ENGINE. Remove the rocker arm(1)cover.(a)Preliminary Adjustment. Make two chalkmarks on the crankshaft damper. Space the marks approximately 120 apart so that with the timing mark,the damper is divided into three equal parts (120represents V3 of the distance around the damper(2)arm covers.(a)8-CYLINDER ENGINES. Remove the rockerPreliminary Adjustment. Make three chalkmarks on the crankshaft damper. Space the marksapproximately 90 apart so that with the timing mark,the damper is divided into four equal parts (90 represents Va turn of the crankshaft or lA of the distancearound the damper circumference).Rotate the crankshaft until number 1piston is nearT.D.C. at the end of the compression stroke and thetiming mark on the damper is aligned with the timingpointer.Combination Adjusting Toolcircumference).Rotate the crankshaft until number 1 piston is nearT.D.C. at the end of the compression stroke. Adjust theintake and exhaust valve lash for number 1 cylinder.Repeat this procedure for the remaining set of valves,turning the crankshaft V3 turn at a time, in the directionof rotation, while adjusting the valves in the firing ordersequence (1-5-3-6-2-4).(b)Final Adjustment. Run the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes at approximately 1200 r.p.m. inorder to stabilize engine temperatures. With the engineidling, check the valve lash. Adjust the lash, if necessary(fig. 21). Install the rocker arm cover.Step Type Feeler GaugeFig. 21 Valve Lash Adjustment Typical6610

Cam20 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repairperformance is noted and all other checks, suchDial Indicatoras carburetion, ignition timing, etc., fail to correct thetrouble. The following procedure can be used to determine if the valve timing is correct with the engine installed in the car.BE SURETO PLACEINDICATOR TIPIN CENTEROF PUSHROD CUPThe procedure checks the cam timing by using theopening side of number 1 intake cam lobe. At this point1of crankshaft rotation is equal to approximately0.0004 inch change in cam lift.Remove the rocker arm cover on the 6-cylinderengine. On 8-cylinder engines, remove the right rockerarm cover.Back off the number 1intake valve adjusting screw,Fig. 22 Camshaft Lobe Lift Check Typical6607then slide the rocker arm assembly to one side andsecure it in this position. Make sure the push rod is inthe tappet socket, then install a dial indicator in such amanner as to have the actuating point of the indicatorin the push rod socket and in the same plane as the pushAdjust the lash on the following valves:No. 1 ExhaustNo. 1 IntakeNo. 4 ExhaustNo. 2 IntakeNo. 5-ExhaustNo. 7-IntakeRotate the engine 180 or V2 turn (this puts number4 piston on T.D.C.)and adjust the following valves:No. 6 ExhaustNo. 4 IntakeNo. 8-ExhaustNo. 5 IntakeRotate the engine 270, or 3A turn from 180 (thisputs number 3 piston on T.D.C.)and adjust the following valves :(b)No. 2-ExhaustNo. 3-ExhaustNo. 7-ExhaustNo. 3-IntakeNo. 6-IntakeNo. 8-IntakeFinal Adjustment. Run the engine for a minimum of 30 minutes at approximately1200 r.p.m. inorder to stabilize engine temperatures. With the engineidling, check the valve lash. Adjust the lash, if necessary(fig. 21). Install the rocker arm covers.e. Valve Timing.Valve timingchecks should be made when poorenginerod movement (fig. 22). Turn the engine slowly (ateither the crankshaft damper bolt or flywheel) untilthe tappet is on the heel of the cam lobe. Zero the dialindicator and continue turning the engine slowly untilthe desired lift is obtained (Table 1). Compare thedegrees on the pulleyDisplacement)with specifications.Table 1 Valve Timing SpecificationsEngine Intake Valve Opens Crankshaft(Cubic Inch Degrees at Cam Lift223272, 2922412.016BTDC@.016BTDC@LiftCam Liftand 312If the valve timing is not within specifications, checkfor a bent timing pointer. Bring the number 1 piston toT.D.C. and see if the timing pointer is aligned with theT.D.C. mark on the crankshaft pulley or damper. If thepointer is not at fault, check the timing chain, camshaftsprocket, crankshaft sprocket, camshaft, and crankshaftpulley, in the order of accessibility.6. TIMING CHAIN, SPROCKETS, AND CAMSHAFTa. TimingChain and Sprockets.To measure timing chain deflection (fig. 23), take upthe slack on the left side (as viewed from the front)of the chain by rotating the crankshaft in a clockwisedirection. Establish a reference point on the block andmeasure from this point to the chain. Rotate the crankshaft to move all the slack to the left side. With thefingers, move the chain toward the original referencepoint and measure the distance between the referencepoint and the chain. If the difference between the twomeasurements (which is the slack)exceeds y% inch,replace the timing( 1 )chain and/or sprockets.INSPECTION. Inspect the sprockets for worn ordamaged teeth. Inspect the chain for broken links.

Section 6 Timing Chain, Sprockets, and Camshaft 21(2) REPAIRS. Replace the sprockets or the timingchain as deemed necessary by inspection. However, it isREFERENCE POINT RIGHT SIDE OF CHAINrecommended that all the components be replaced ifany one item needs replacement.b. Camshaft.The camshaft should be replaced when any lobe(intake or exhaust)is worn to such an extent that thelift loss exceeds 0.005 inch. The tappet which mateswith the worn lobe must also be replaced.(1)CAM LOBE LIFT CHECK. This procedure issimilar to the procedure for checking valve timing.Loosen the valve rocker arm adjusting screw,then slidethe rocker arm assembly to one side and secure it in thisposition. Make sure the push rod is in the tappet socket,then install a dial indicator in such a manner as to havethe actuatingpoint of the indicator in the push rodsocket and in the same plane as the push rod movement (fig. 22). Rotate the engine slowly until the tappetis on the heel of the cam lobe. Zero the dial indicator,then continue to rotate the engine slowly until the pushrod is in the fully raised position. Compare the total liftrecorded on the indicator with specifications. Continueto rotate the engine until the indicator reads zero. Thislater step is a check on the accuracy of the originalindicator reading.(2) INSPECTION. Thoroughlycheck the camshaftfor damage. Examine the lobes for pitting, scoring, andsigns of abnormal wear. Check the lobes with a micrometer. Suspected worn lobes should be compared with agood lobe to be sure diagnosis is correct. Measure thejournal diameter for wear and out-of-roundness. Measure the I. D. of the camshaft bearings. If the clearancesare excessive the cam and/or cam bearings should bereplaced. Check the fuel pump eccentric for wear.(3)REPAIRS. Replace all camshafts that are damaged beyond repair. Remove light scuffs, scores, or nicksTAKE UP SLACK ON LEFT SIDE OF CHAIN. ESTABLISH A REFERENCEPOINT AND MEASURE DISTANCE A. THEN, TAKERIGHT SIDE OF CHAIN AND FORCE LEFTUP SLACK ONSIDE OF CHAIN OUTWITH THE FINGERS AND MEASURE DISTANCE B. DEFLECTIONIS A. MINUS B. 6608Fig. 23 Timing Chain Deflection Typicalbroken, worn, or scored it will be necessary to replacethe camshaft.(4)CAMSHAFT END PLAY CHECK. Push thecamshaft toward the rear of the engine. Place a dialindicator point against a suitable surface on the frontend of the camshaft assembly (fig. 24). Set the dial tozero, then pull the camshaft forward and release it.Compare the dial readingwith specifications.If the end play is excessive, check the spacer for correct installation. Replace the thrust plate and/or spacerif necessary.with a hard Arkansas stone, then polish with crocuscloth.The lobe wear characteristics may result in pitting inthe general area of the nose portion of the lobe. Thispitting is not detrimental to the operation of the cam ifthe initial cam lobe lift loss has not exceeded 0.005 inch.The camshaft will continue to operate satisfactorily forthe normal life expectancy of the engine without noticeably affecting engine performance. Therefore, camshaftsshould not be replaced unless the lobe lift loss exceedsthe above specification or the tappet contact face showsevidence of failure.Normally if the front journal to bearingclearance isexcessive, it can be assumed that all bearings are wornand need replacement.If any of the teeth on the distributor drive gear areFig. 24 Camshaft End Play Check Typical

22 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repair7. FLYWHEEL, CRANKSHAFT, AND MAIN BEARINGSProcedures for the inspection and repair of thesecomponents are given here. In addition, procedures forfitting main bearings, aligning the thrust bearing, andreplacing the rear main bearing crankshaft oil sealare given.a. Flywheel.The flywheel and ringgear are a shrink fit and arereplaceable as separate parts.(1) INSPECTION. Check the flywheel face runoutwith a dial indicator (fig. 25). Be sure to hold the flywheel full forward or rearward so that crankshaft endplay will not be indicated as flywheel runout. If therunout is excessive, remove the flywheel,and check therunout of the crankshaft mounting flange. It will benecessary to remove the crankshaft if the flange requires machining.Inspect the ring gear for worn, chipped, or crackedteeth. Check the ring gear runout as indicated in fig. 26.(2)REPAIRS. If the flywheel runout is excessiveand the flange is not at fault, replace or machine theflywheel. Machine the friction surface of the flywheel ifit is scored or worn. If it is necessary to remove morethan 0.045 inch of stock from the original thickness,replace the flywheel.If the ringgear teeth are damaged and unfit forfurther use, or if the runout is excessive, replace the ringgear as follows:Heat the defective ring gear with a blow torch on theengine side of the gear, then knock it off the flywheel.CAUTION: Do not hit the flywheel whenremovingthe ring gear.Heat the new ring gear evenlyuntil the gear expandsenough to slip onto the flywheel. Make sure the gear isseated properly against the shoulder.CAUTION: Do not heat anyportionof the gear to atemperature higher than 500 F. //this limit isexceeded, the temper will be removed from the ringgear teeth. When the newring gear is installed, perform a runout check on the gear and flywheel.ringb. Crankshaft.Check the end play in the following manner:Push the crankshaft toward the rear of the engine.Place a dial indicator point against the rear or front endof the crankshaft. Set the dial on zero, then push thecrankshaft forward. Compare the reading on the dialindicator with specifications.(1)CLEANING AND INSPECTION. Remove thecrankshaft, wash it in a solvent, and blow out the oilpassages with compressed air. Examine the shaft fordamage.Measure the diameter of each journal in at least fourplaces to determine out-of-round, taper, or undersizecondition (fig. 27).Fig. 25Flywheel Runout Check TypicalFig. 26 Ring Gear Runout CheckTypical

up9'Section 7 Flywheel, Crankshaft, and Main Bearings 23(2) REPAIRS. If the end play is excessive, replacethe thrust bearing.Replace the crankshaft if it shows signs of failure.Dress minor nicks or scratches.=A VS B VERTICAL TAPER=C VS D HORIZONTAL TAPER=A VS C AND B VS D OUT OF ROUNDCHECK FOR OUT-OF-ROUND AT EACH END OF JOURNALIf the pins or journals are out-of-round beyond furtheruse, the shaft should be ground for the next undersizebearing. Calculate the correct undersize bearing to beused as follows:EXAMPLE: // the main bearingjournal will "cleanbefore it is ground to 2.499 0.010 = 2.489inches diameter, finish it to that diameter,0.010 inch undersize bearings.and installAlways reproduce the same radii in the corners of thejournals that existed originally. Too small a radius willresult in bearing failure.6517CAUTION: Never grind journals or crankpins inexcess of 0.030 inch undersize.Fig. 27 CheckingCrankshaft JournalAfter grinding, chamfer the oil holes, then polish thepin or journal with number 320 grit polishing cloth andengine oil. Crocus cloth maying agent.c. Main Bearings.also be used as a polishThe insert-type main bearings are select fit. They areavailable for service in standard and undersizes for useon journals that have been reground. The installation ofnew bearings must be closely checked to maintain theproper clearance between the journals and bearingsurfaces.(1) INSPECTION. Check the bearings for any damage or excessive clearance. Examples of bearing failuresand their causes are illustrated in fig. 28.-(2) FITTING MAIN BEARINGS PLASTIGAGEMETHOD. The following procedure applies to fittingmain bearings with the engine either installed on aworkstand or in the car.If the bearing fits are to be checked with the enginein the car,support the weight of the crankshaft with asmall jack positioned to hold the crankshaft upwardagainst the block half of the main bearings. Place thejack to bear against the crankshaft counterweight adjoining the bearing which is being checked for clearance.The shaft can also be supported by a thin rubber padbetween the cap insert and the journal of two bearingsthat are not being checked. Tighten the bearing capbolts just enough to hold the crankshaft upupper bearings.against theNOTE: It is necessary to support the iveight of thecrankshaft when checking main bearing clearancesto prevent the weight of the crankshaft from compressing the Plastigage, thereby providingneous reading.an erroDIRT IMBEDDEDSCRATCHES INTO BEARING MATERIALSCRATCHED BY DIRTOVERLAY WIPED OUTLACK OF OILBRIGHT (POLISHED) SECTIONSIMPROPER SEATINGOVERLAY GONE FROM ENTIRE SURFACETAPERED JOURNALRADIUS RIDERADIUS RIDEFig. 28 Bearing Failures TypicalCRATERS OR POCKETSFATIGUE FAILURE 6491

24 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and RepairCLEARANCEFlattened PlasticGRADUATED CONTAINER1282Fig. 29 Measuring Plastigage TypicalPlace a piece ofPlastigage, the full width of thebearing cap,on the bearing surface (or on the crankshaft journal if the engine is inverted)about XA inch6354off center. Install the capfications.and tighten the bolts to speciFig. 31 Pry Cap Backward TypicalCAUTION: Do not turn the crankshaft while thePlastigage is in place.Remove the cap, then check the width of the Plastigageat the widest point with the Plastigage scale(fig- 29).If the clearance is excessive, try another selective fitbearing to bring the clearance within the desired limit.NOTE: Normally, main bearing journals wear evenlyand are not out-of-round. However, if a bearing isbeing fitted to an out-of-round journal, be sure tofit the bearing to the maximum diameter of thejournal. If the bearingis fitted to the minimum diameter with minimum clearance, interference mayresult, causing an early failure. It is not recommendedthat bearings be fitted to a crankshaft journal whichNOTE: Redmarked bearings increase clearance;is more than 0.001 inch out-of-round.blue marked bearings decrease clearance.(3)THRUST BEARING ALIGNMENT. Install theIf the various selective fit bearings do not bring themain bearing caps, except the thrust bearing cap, andclearance within the desired limits,grind the crankshafttighten the bolts to specifications. Install the thrustjournal and/or journals and install undersize bearings.16353Fig. 30 Pry Crankshaft Forward TypicalFig. 32 Tighten Cap Typical

Section 7 Flywheel, Crankshaft, and Main Bearings 25Tool T52L-670I-AGD 6373Fig. 33 Oil Seal to Block Installation TypicalI |J 6374Fig. 34 Oil Seal to Retainer Installation Typicalbearing cap with the bolts finger-tight, then pry thecrankshaft forward against the thrust surface of theupper half of the bearing (fig. 30). While holding thecrankshaft forward, pry the thrust bearing capto therear (fig. 31). This will align the thrust surfaces of bothhalves of the bearing. Retain the forward pressure onthe crankshaft, and tighten the cap bolts to specifications (fig. 32). Check the crankshaft end play.(4) REPLACING REAR MAIN BEARING CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALS. Remove the crankshaft journaloil seals from the cylinder block and seal retainer orbearingcap. Clean the seal grooves.Install the new seal in the cylinder block as shown infig. 33. After installation, cut the seals flush without anyfrayed edges overlapping. Install the new journal sealin the retainer or bearing capas shown in fig. 34. Afterinstallation cut the seals flush.Tool-T52L-6701-AGDCoat the rear oil seal retainer to block mating facewith sealer, install the retainer and tighten the bolts to23-28 foot-pounds torque. Dip the retainer side seals inlight engine oil, then immediately install them in thegrooves. It may be necessary to tap the seals into placefor the last Vl inch of travel. Do not cut the seal projecting ends.CAUTION: Do not use sealer on the side seals. Theseals are designed to expand when dipped in oil.Using sealer mayretard this expansion.To check retainer or bearing cap side seals for leaks,squirt a few drops of oil into the parting lines betweenthe cap or retainer and the cylinder block from theoutside. Blow compressed air against the seals from theinside of the block. If air bubbles appear in the oil, itindicates possible oil leakage.NOTE: The above test should not be performed onnewly installed seals until sufficient time has beenallowed for the seals to expand into the seal grooves.8. CYLINDER BLOCK, PISTONS, PISTON RINGS, ANDCONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGSDuring the disassemblyof the cylinder block for en(1) INSPECTION. Make a thorough check forgine overhaul, closely inspect the wear pattern on all cracks. Minute cracks not visible to the naked eye mayparts to help diagnose the cause of wear.be detected by coating the suspected area with a mixture of 25% kerosene and 75% light motor oil. Wipea. Cylinder Block.the part dry and immediately apply a coating of zincClean old gasket material from all machined surfaces. oxide dissolved in wood alcohol. If cracks are present,Remove the pipe plugs which seal oil passages and clean the coating will become discolored at the defective area.all passages thoroughly. Make sure the threads in the head bolt holes are

26 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and RepairTool T52L-6266-BGDCYLINDER BLOCK CORE PLUGS-1271Fig. 37 Expansion-Type Plug Installation TypicalFig. 35 Cylinder Bore Measurement TypicalNOTE: A 0.030 inch oversize plugis available.clean. Dirt in the threads can cause bindingand resultin a false torque reading. Use atap to true up threadsand to remove deposits if necessary.Inspect the cylinder bores for scoring, taper, out ofroundness, and wear. Use a cylinder bore gauge to makethe measurements (fig. 35). Follow the instructions ofthe tool manufacturer. Only experienced personnelshould be permitted to take these measurements.Inspect all expansion-type plugs for evidence ofleakage.(2) REPAIRS. To remove an expansion-type plug,drill a Vi inch hole in the center of the plug and removethe plugas shown in fig. 36.Clean the plug recessRebore cylinders that are deeplyscored and whentaper and/or out-of-roundness are excessive. If the cylinder bore and piston wear are not excessive, new servicepiston rings will give satisfactory performance.(3) BORING CYLINDER BLOCK. Follow the boring equipment manufacturer's instructions. This workshould be performed byexperienced personnel only.Bore the cylinder with the most wear first to determine the proper oversize. If the cylinder will not cleanup when bored for the maximum oversize piston recommended, the block should be replaced. Bore the cylinderto within approximately 0.0015 inch of the requiredoversize diameter. This will allow enough stock for thefinal stepof honing the bores so the correct surface finishthoroughly. Coat the flange of the new plugwith sealerand pattern are obtained. Use a number 220-280 gritand install it with the flange facing out. Drive the plugin until the flange is flush or slightly below the castingsurface (fig. 37).hone for this operation.CAUTION: Thoroughlyclean the block to remove allparticles after theboring and honing operations,then coat the bores with oil.(4) CYLINDER BORE "GLAZE'' REMOVAL.Whenever piston rings are installed in a used cylinder,remove the "glaze" on the bore to aid in ring seating.Take allnecessary precautions to catch the grit. Passa hone or glaze removing tool through the cylinder borea few times. Do not hone more than enough to rough-upthe finish. Thoroughlyclean the cylinder bore and blockafter glaze removal, then oil the bores.b. Pistons, Pins,and Rings.(1) CLEANING AND INSPECTION. Remove theCYLINDER BLOCKDRILL Vi INCH HOLE IN PLUGCORE PLUGS 6600Fig. 36 Expansion-Type Plug Removal Typicalcarbon deposits from the pistons. Clean the piston ringgrooves with a ring groove cleaner (fig. 38). Make surethe oilring slots (or holes)are clean.

Section 8 Cylinder Block, Pistons, Piston Rings, and Connecting Rods and Bearings 27Groove Cleaning ToolT52L-6 1 10-AADFig. 38 Cleaning Ring Grooves6097CAUTION: Do not use a caustic cleaninga wire brush.solution orInspect pistons for fractures at the ring lands, skirt,and pin bosses, and for scuffed or scored skirts. Spongy,eroded areas near the edge of the pistontop are usuallycaused by detonation, or pre-ignition. A shiny surfaceon the thrust surface of the piston,offset from the centerline between the piston pin holes, can be caused by abent connecting rod. The normal wear pattern of a pistonis shown in fig. 39.Inspect the piston pins for signs of fracture or etching. Check the pin for proper fit in the piston and rodbushing. Check for wear in the pin retainer grooves.(2) REPAIRS. Replace pistons showingsigns ofexcessive skirt clearance or ring side clearance, wavyring lands, fractures or damage from detonation or preignition.Replace piston pins showing signs of fracture or etching. Piston pins that show wear or fit looselyin theFig. 39 Normal Wear PatternPISTON WEAR AREAS6609able pull, recheck calculations before trying anotherhone the cylinder to thepiston. If none can be fitted,next size piston. When a piston has been fitted,for assembly in the cylinder to which it was fitted.mark itNOTE: All pistons are the same weight, both standard and oversize; therefore, pistons ofvarious sizescan be intermixed without upsettingengine balance.Rebore only the cylinder or cylinders which require it.(4)ringFITTING PISTON RINGS. Select the properset for the size piston to be used. Before the ringsare installed on the piston, check each ring for propergapas follows:Position che ring in the cylinder bore in which it ispiston or rod bushing should be replaced. Always replace all piston pin retainers.(3) FITTING PISTONS. Pistons of 0.020, 0.030,0.040 and 0.060 inch oversize are available for mostengines. Check the parts catalogue for sizes available.To fit a piston in a cylinder bore, calculate the sizepiston desired by taking a bore check (fig. 35) andselect the proper size piston to provide the desiredclearance. Check the piston being fitted by attaching atension scale to the end of a feeler gauge ribbon {Viinch wide)of the proper thickness. Position the feeler onthe side of the piston 90 from the piston pin hole. Invertthe piston, then push the piston and feeler into the boreparallel to the crankshaft axis. Hold the piston and pullout the feeler ribbon, noting the readingscale (fig. 40).on the pullIf the scale reading is greater than the maximumallowable recheck calculations pull, to be sure that theNORMALproper size piston has been selected, check for a damagedpiston, try a new piston, or hone the cylinder bore toobtain the proper fit.allow-If the scale reading is less than the minimumFig. 40 Fitting Piston Typical6490

28 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repairaccording to the instructions on the piston ring package,check the ring side clearance with a feeler gauge. Thegauge should slide freely around the entire piston ringcircumference without binding.If the rings are to be installed in a used cylinder, remove the "glaze" on the bore as previously explained.(5) FITTING PISTON PIN. The piston pin fitshould be a light thumb press fit at normal temperature(70F). Standard piston pins are color coded green. Pinsof 0.001 inch oversize (color coded blue)and 0.002 inchoversize (color coded yellow)are available.If the piston pin hole must be reamed, use an expansion-type, piloted reamer. Place the reamer in a viseand revolve the piston around the reamer. Set the reamer to the size of the pin bore, then expand the reamerslightly and trial ream the pin bore. Take a light cut.Use a pilot sleeve of the nearest size to maintain alignment of the bores.Check the reamed hole size, using the new piston pin.ft W 6485Fig. 41 Measuring Piston Ring Gap Typicalgoing to be used. Push the ring down into the bore areawhere normal ringwear is not encountered. Use the headof a piston to position the ring in the bore so the ringis square with the cylinder wall. Use caution during thisoperation to avoid damage to the ring or cylinder bore.Measure the gap between the ends of the ring with afeeler gauge (fig. 41). The gap should be from 0.010-0.027 inch. If the gap is less than the lower limit, tryanother ringset. After the rings have been fitted in thecylinder bore, immediately install them on the piston,or identify them with the piston and cylinder in whichthey are to be installed.After the rings have been installed in the ring groovesIf the bore is small, expand the reamer slightly and makeanother cut. Repeat the procedure until the proper fitis obtained. Check the fitted piston pin for fit in therespective rod bushing. Ream the bushing if necessaryto fit the pin.Install the piston pin in the piston and rod. Install aretainer at each end of the pin to hold it in place. Whenthe retainers are installed, make sure they are properlyseated in the grooves provided in the piston pin bore.Always use new retainers.c.Connecting Rod.The connecting rods and related parts should be carefully inspected and checked for conformance to specifications. Various forms of engine wear which are causedby these parts can be readily identified as follows:A shiny surface on the pin boss side of the pistonusually indicates that a connecting rod is bent or thepiston pin hole is not in proper relation to the pistonskirt and ringgrooves (fig. 42).Abnormal connecting rod bearing wear can be causedby either a bent connecting rod, a crankshaft journalimproperly machined, or a tapered connecting rod bore(fig. 43).Twisted connecting rods will not create an easilyidentifiable wear pattern, but badly twisted rods willdisturb the action of the entire piston, rings, and rodassembly that mayresult in excessive oil consumption.(1) CLEANING AND INSPECTION. Clean all partsand passages in solvent. Never use a caustic cleaningPISTON WEAR CAUSED BY BENT RODOR MISALIGNED PISTON PIN HOLE 6371Fig. 42 Wear Pattern on Piston Piston Pin Boss Surfacesolution. Remove the bearings (identify them if they areto be used again), then thoroughlyclean the rod boreand the back of the bearings. For the different types ofbearing failures and their causes, refer to Section 7.Make sure the oil squirt holes are open.

Section 8 Cylinder Block, Pistons, Piston Rings, and Connecting Rods and Bearings 29BEARING WEAR CAUSED BY BENT ROD ORIMPROPER GRINDING OF CRANKSHAFT JOURNAL 6372Fig. 43 Wear Pattern on Connecting Rod BearingInspect the rods for deep nicks, signs of fractures, andcheck the bore for out-of-roundness.Check the connecting rod bolts and nuts for damage.After the connecting rods are assembled to the pistons,check the rods for bend or twist on a suitable alignment fixture. Follow the instructions of the fixturemanufacturer.(2) REPAIRS. If the piston pin to rod bushingclearance is excessive, ream the rod bushing and pistonfor the next oversize pin.If the rod is twisted or bent more than specified, itshould be straightened or replaced.Replace defective connecting rod nuts and/or bolts.Rods with deep nicks, signs of fractures, or with thebore out-of-round more than 0.0004 inch should bereplaced.d. Fitting ConnectingPlastigage Method.Rod BearingsPlace a piece of Plastigage on the bearing surface,the full width of the bearing,Install the cappounds torque.about XAinch off center.and tighten the rod bolts to 45-50 footNOTE: Do not turn the crankshaft with the Plastigage in place.Remove the bearing cap, and use the Plastigage scaleto measure the width of the flattened piece of plastic atthe widest point.Fig, 44 Connecting Rod Side Clearance Check TypicalNOTE: // the crankpin is out-of-round, be sure tofit the bearing to the maximum diameter of thecrankpin. It is not recommended to use bearingshims of any type, or to file or lap the bearing capsin order to adjust the bearing clearance.If the clearance is not satisfactory, tryanother selecto clearance within the desiredtive fit bearing to bringlimit.NOTE: Red marked bearings increase the clearance,blue marked bearings decrease the clearance.If the various selective fit bearings do not bring theclearance within the desired limit, it will be necessary toregrind the crankshaft journals and install undersizebearings.Rotate the crankshaft after the bearing is installedto be sure the bearing is not too tight.e.ConnectingRod Side Clearance.After the connecting rods are installed, measure theside clearance with feeler stock (fig. 44).9. OIL PAN AND OIL PUMPa. Oil Pan.Scrape any dirt or metal particles from the inside ofthe pan. Scrape all old gasket material from the gasketsurface. Wash the pan in a solvent and dry it thoroughly.Be sure all foreign matter is removed from below thebaffle plate.Check the pan for cracks, holes, damaged drain plugthreads, a loose baffle, and a nicked or warped gasketsurface.Repair any damage, or replace the pan if repairscannot be made.

30 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repairb. Oil Pump.OILPUMP GEARSWash all parts in a solvent and drythem thoroughly.Use a brush to clean the inside of the pump housing andthe pressure relief valve chamber. Be sure all dirt andchips are removed. Remove old gasket material from thepump body and cover.Inspect the pump body and the gear teetn ior damageor wear. Check the gear end clearance with a dial indicator or Plastigage. The Plastigage method is as follows:Position the gasket on the housing, then place Plastigage on the gears as shown in fig. 45, and install thecover.Remove the cover and check the Plastigagereading.Check the gears for freedom of rotation. Check thecompression of the oil pressure relief valve spring andPlastigagecheck the clearance of the relief valve in the valvechamber.6497Fig. 45 Checking Gear End Play Typical10. EXHAUST SYSTEMThe exhaust system must be free of leaks and excessive vibration. Leaks can usually be detected visually,orin some cases, a whistling noise may be heard at thepipe connections. All the parts of the system are replaceable.Check the various sections of the exhaust system forsigns ofleaking or burning through. The slots in themuffler inlet and outlet extensions should be blocked bythe inlet and outlet pipes, respectively. However, theoverlapin either case should not be greater than 13Ainches,as passage of exhaust gases may be restricted.To correct leakage at the muffler connections, positionthe inlet and outlet pipes as previously outlined. Replace all sections that show signs of burning through.Check for possible interference between the outletpipe "kick-up" and the floor pan. If the clearance is insufficient, reposition the outlet pipe in the muffler.Exhaust system vibrations are usually caused bybroken or improperly aligned clamps. Align or replaceclamps as necessary.SERVICE LETTER REFERENCELetter No. Date SubjectChanges Informationon Page No.

SectionPart ONEPOWER PLANTChapter6-Cylinder EnginenPage1 Engine Steady Rest 312 Manifolds 323 Cylinder Head and Valves 334 Crankshaft Damper 365 Cylinder Front Cover and Crankshaft Oil Seal 366 Sprockets and Timing Chain, Camshaft and Bearings, and Tappets 377 Flywheel, Crankshaft, and Main Bearings 398 Connecting Rods and Bearings, Pistons, Pins, and Rings 429 Oil Pan, Oil Filter, and Oil Pump 4410 Exhaust System 45This chapter as-contains the removal, disassembly, Inspection, and Repair." In addition, engine troublesembly, and installation procedures for the component shooting and tune-up are covered in Chapter I.parts of the 6-cylinder engine.The Cylinder, EBP engine (fig. 1) has a bore ofThe cleaning, inspection, and repair procedures forthe component parts and engine overhaul instructionsare covered in Chapter I, "General Engine Overhaul,3.62 inches, a stroke of 3.6 inches,pression ratio.and an 8.0:1com-This engine is available in all car models (except theThunderbird).1. ENGINE STEADY RESTThe engine steady rest (fig. 2) does not support anyengine weight and, as its name implies, it functions as arest. Remove the spacer bolt that retains the insulatorsin the bracket. Remove the insulators. Remove the twostabilizer only.~a. Removal.bolts from the left side and the one bolt from the right, side of the engine block, then remove the bracketRemove the two clamp bolts at the front of the steadyassembly.BRACKETLOCKWASHERLOCKNUTBOLTFLAT WASHERSPACERLOCKWASHERRETAINERSHOULDER BOLT6615/r;g< J223 Cubic Inch Engine % Right Front View31Fig. 2 Steady Rest Disassembled6199

32 Chapter 1 General Engine Overhaul, Inspection, and Repairb. Installation.Before installing the steady rest, inspect all the components for defects. Replace defective parts. Install thebracket on the cylinder block. Tighten the bolts to 23-28foot-pounds torque. Install, but do not tighten,the insulators, spacer bolts, and clamp bolts. If necessary,center the spacer bolt in the frame bracket by shifting theengine front mounts in their frame brackets. Then,tighten the spacer bolt to 20-25 foot-pounds torque.Make sure engine weight is not being transferred to thesteady rest insulators, then tighten the clamp bolts to25-30 foot-pounds torque.2. MANIFOLDSA chamber (heat riser) is cast into the intake manifold center section where the carburetor and exhaustmanifold are attached. Athermostatically controlledvalve, located in the exhaust manifold, directs exhaustgases into this area to provide the necessary heat required by the intake manifold to assist in vaporizing theincoming fuel mixture.a. Removal.Disconnect the throttle linkage at the manifold bellcrank. Remove the air cleaner and the carburetor.Disconnect the muffler inlet pipe. Remove the boltsfastening the manifold to the head,and lift the manifoldassembly from the head. Remove the gaskets andsleeves. Remove the nuts and bolt joining the manifolds,then separate the manifolds. A disassembled view of themanifolds is shown in fig. 3.b. Exhaust Gas Control ValveThe exhaust control valve is located in the outlet ofthe exhaust manifold. Normally, it does not require replacement unless it becomes inoperative due to excessive corrosion or damage.Before removing the valve assembly, note the positionof the counterweight in relation to the valve plate. Remove the cotter pin, shield, washer, stop spring andthermostat spring from the front end of the shaft. Usingan acetylene torch in the inside of the manifold,cut theshaft on both sides of the valve plate. Use caution toavoid damage to the shaft bearing bores. Remove thevalve and shaft pieces. Clean the bearing bores of corrosion and repair any damage that may have occurred.Replace the bearings if necessary. Lubricate the newshaft and bearing bores with a penetrating oil or kerosene and graphite mixture. Insert the shaft through thebearings and valve plate. Rotate the shaft in the valveplate until the counterweight is in the normal "up" (heatpositionon) (fig. 4). Weld the valve to the shaft in theoriginal manner. The shaft and valve are stainless steelto minimize corrosion and/or damage byexcessive heat.Install the thermostat spring in the shaft slot. TightenINTAKEMANIFOLD.WINDSHIELDWIPERCONNECTORNUT-*-NUTLOCK WASHER-^iGASKETSTUD*gj?tPLUGLOCK WASHERthe spring 3A turn and hook the open end of the springover the stop pin. The thermostat spring should hold thevalve in the closed or "heaton"position (i.e. in theproper position to direct the flow of gases into the heatriser). Install the stop spring, shield,washer and cotterpin. Lubricate the shaft bearings while operating thevalve manually to replace original lubricant lost throughperforming the welding operation.EXHAUSTMANIFOLDCLOSED(HEAT ON)SHIELD/ SPRINGkTHERMOSTATSPRINGBUSHINGBOLTLOCK WASHER ^tfPL "\VBLGASKET STUDFig. 3 Manifold DisassembledFig. 4Exhaust Control Valve^IB'S?'1

Section 2 Manifolds 33c. Installation.Place the intake manifold over the studs on the exhaust manifold. Install the lock washers, nuts and bolt,then tighten them finger tight. Clean the mating surfaceof the cylinder heads. Inspect and repair any damage atthe mating surfaces. Install new gaskets using newsleeves, if necessary, in the port of the cylinder head.Coat the mating surfaces lightly with graphite grease,then place the manifold assembly in position against thehead.NOTE: Make sure the port openings in the manifoldassemblyare aligned with the port openings in thecylinderhead and that none of the steel gaskets havebecome dislodged.Tighten the bolts to 23-28 foot-pounds torque, tighteningfrom the center to the ends. Tighten the bolt andnuts joining the intake and exhaust manifolds to 23-28foot-pounds torque. Install a new exhaust outlet flangegasket, and position the muffler inlet pipe over the studs.Install the nuts and lockwashers, then tighten the nutsto 23-28 foot-pounds torque.Connect the throttle linkage. Install the carburetorand connect the carburetor linkage. Install the aircleaner.3. CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVESThe cylinder head carries the valves and valve rockerarm mechanism, the manifold assembly, ignition coil,and the water outlet.Valve guides are an integral part of the cylinder head.Both the intake and exhaust valve assemblies are therotating-type which incorporate umbrella-type valvestem seals.a. Cylinder Head Removal.Drain the cooling system. Remove the radiator upperhose and heater hose. Remove the air cleaner, then tapethe carburetor air horn closed. Disconnect the batterycable at the cylinder head. Disconnect the windshieldwiper vacuum line, accelerator rod, choke cable, temperature sending unit wire, and oil pressure sending unitwire.REMOVE SCREWDisconnect the coil from the head and move it to oneside. Remove the spark plugplugs.wires and remove the sparkDisconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and the fuelpump. Disconnect the distributor vacuum line at the carburetor and the distributor. Disconnect the manifoldvacuum line at the manifold and at the booster pump,then remove the three lines as an assembly.Remove the rocker arm cover. Remove the cap screwand clip from the number 6 rocker arm support bracket.Pull the oil feed line out of the bracket, then pull it outof the block with pliers (fig. 5). Be careful not todamage the line.Loosen all rocker arm adjusting screws to remove thevalve spring load from the rocker arms, then remove therocker arm shaft assembly.Remove the valve push rods in sequence. Identifythem so theycan be installed in their original positions(fig. 6).PRY UP OIL LINEWITH PLIERS6612 6499Fig. 5 Oil Line RemovalFig. 6 Valve Push Rod Removal

34 Chapter II 6-Cylinder EnginesBOLT BRACKETS TO INTAKE PORTSTIGHTEN SCREWJ^^SECURELY -Tool-T52P-6085-DAD 1276Fig. 7 Cylinder Head Holding FixturePull the oil drain line and clip out of the number 1 side out, in each end of the rocker shaft. Install a flat1234Remove the manifold to head bolts, and pull themanifold assembly away from the head. Brace the as Fig. 9 Valve Stem Lock Removal or Installationsembly so the inlet pipe will not be damaged.Install the cylinder head holding fixtures for convenience in lifting the head and to protect the gasketsurfaces (fig. 7).Remove all cylinder head bolts. Install the cylinderhead guide studs (fig. 8). Lift the cylinder head assemsupport bracket. Remove the cotter pins at each end ofthe rocker arm shaft, and remove the flat washers andspring washers. Remove the plugs at each end ofthe shaft.NOTE: The plugs are an interference fit. To removebly off the engine. plugs, drill or pierce the plug on one end, thenuse a steel rod to knock out the onplug the opposite7/1614x6"BOLTend.Working from the open end, knock out theCUT OFF HEAD, TAPER END AND SLOT_ i FOR SCREW DRIVER AS SHOWNremaining plug.Slide the rocker arms, springs, and brackets off theshaft. Be sure to identify the parts.c. Cylinder Head Disassembly.m rz.-Clean the carbon out of the combustion chambersbefore removing the valves. Compress the valve springs(fig. 9), then remove the valve retainer locks and release the spring. Remove the sleeve, spring retainer,Fig. 8Cylinder Head Guide Studsspring, stem seal, and valve.Discard the valve stem seals. Identify all valve parts.CAUTION: Do not pry between the head and blockas the gasket surfaces may become damaged.b. Rocker Shaft Disassembly.d. Rocker Shaft Assembly.Oil all moving parts with engine oil.Using a blunttool or large diameter pin punch, install aplug, cupROCKER ARMCOVER RETAINING STUD^LOCKNUTFLAT WASHERFLAT WASHERADJUSTING SCREW/OOOtSPRING /WASHER PLUG ROCKER SHAFTCOTTERPIN6614Fig. 10Rocker Mechanism Disassembled

~~Section 3 Cylinder Head and Valves 35washer, spring washer, another flat washer, and a cotterpin on one end of the shaft. Install the rocker arms, supUNDERSIDE OF SPRING RETAINERportbrackets, and springs in the order shown in fig. 10.Complete the assembly by installing the remaining flatwashers with the spring washer between them, and install the cotter key.e. Cylinder Head Assembly.Install each valve in the port from which it wasremoved or to which it was fitted. Install a new stemseal on the valve. Install the valve springwith the closedcoil against the head surface, then install the valvespring retainer, and sleeve. Compress the spring, andinstall the retainer locks (fig. 9).Measure the valve springassembled height from themachined surface of the cylinder head spring pad to thespring retainer contact surface as shown in fig. 11. If theassembled height is lx%6 inches or greater, install thenecessary 0.030 inch thick spacer and/or spacers between the cylinder head valve spring pad and the valvespring to bringthe assembled height to the recommended dimension of12%2-11%6 inches.CAUTION: Do not install spacers unless necessary.Use ofspacers in excess ofrecommendations willresult in overstressing the valve springs which willlead to excessive load loss and spring breakage.f. Cylinder Head Installation.Clean carbon deposits and gasket sealer residue fromthe head and block gasket surfaces. Inspect the head forany damage and repair as necessary. Apply a coating ofcylinder head gasket sealer to both sides of a newgasket. Use the brush furnished to spread the sealerevenly over the entire gasket surface. Position the gasketover the guide studs on the cylinder block. Lift thecylinder head over the guides and slide the head downcarefully. Before installing the cylinder head bolts, coatthe threads of each bolt with a small amount of waterresistant sealer. Install two bolts at opposite ends of thehead to hold the head and gasket in position. Removethe guides, then install the remaining bolts. Remove thecylinder head holding fixtures. The cylinder head bolttighteningsteps. First,(cold)them to 65procedure is performed in three progressivetighten the bolts to 55 foot-pounds torquein the sequence shown in fig. 12,then tightenfoot-pounds torque (cold) in the samesequence. Install the push rods in their proper sequence.Position the lower end of the rods in the tappet sockets.Position the valve rocker arm assembly on the head,then install the oil drain line, clip, and retaining screwon the number 1bracket. Make sure the oil line entersthe shaft locating hole. Position the oil feed line on theSURFACE OF SPRING PAD 6504Fig. 71 Checking Valve SpringTypicalAssembled Height-number 6 bracket. Make sure the lower end of the oilline "O" ring seal is in the oil supply counterbore, theninstall the bolt. Tighten all the retaining bolts to 45-55foot-pounds torque. Perform a preliminary (cold) valvelash adjustment.Install the manifold assembly, the ignition coil, andspark plugs. Connect the spark plug wires and the temperature sendingunit wire. Connect the radiator upperhose and the heater hoses. Install the, accelerator pedalrod. Position the two vacuum lines and the fuel line onthe engine, then connect the lines. Connect the windshield wiper hose. Connect the battery cable to the head.Fill the coolingsystem. Remove the tape from the carburetor air horn, then connect the choke wire. Start theengine and run it for a minimum of 30 minutes atapproximately 1200 r.p.m. With the engine warmed up,tighten the cylinder head bolts, in proper sequence, to75 foot-pounds torque (hot),then check the valve lashwith the engine idling and adjust it if necessary.NOTE:After the cylinder head bolts have beentightened to specifications, the bolts should not bedisturbed.Coat one side of the rocker arm cover gasket with oilresistant sealer, and lay the cemented side of the gasketin place in the cover. Install the rocker armcover,making sure that the gasket seats evenlyall around thehead. Install the rubber seals on the studsmaking suretheyare centered in the cover openings. Tighten theretaining nuts to 2.0-2.5 foot-pounds torque.25 B ~ Z^Z55ifOTi flph rtorMoot)oo(?og)o9oo9oo^oJ1225Fig. 12Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence

36 Chapter II 6-Cylinder Engines4. CRANKSHAFT DAMPERA single sheave crankshaft damper and pulley assembly is standard. The assembly is keyed to the crankshaft and retained with a capscrew and washer. Twothreaded holes are provided in the damper to facilitateremoval.On cars equipped with power steering, an additionalsingle sheave pulley is bolted to the crankshaft damperto drive the power steering pump.a. Removal.theRemove the radiator. Remove the drive belts.On cars equipped with power steering, remove thetwo bolts and lockwashers that fasten the power steering pump pulley to the crankshaft damper and removethe pulley.Remove the cap screw and washer from the end ofcrankshaft. Install the tool shown in fig. 13 and remove the damper.b. Installation.Lubricate the crankshaft with an oil and white leadmixture and lubricate the oil seal surface withrubbinggrease. Align the damper keyway with the keyon thecrankshaft, and start the damper on the shaft. Press thedamper on the shaft (fig. 14). Install the lockwasherand capscrew, then tighten the bolt to 85-95 footpounds torque. Install and adjust the generator belt.On cars equipped with power steering, install thepower steering pump pulley on the crankshaft damper.Tighten the retaining bolts to 23-28 foot-pounds torque.Install and adjust the power steering pump belt.Install the radiator.Fig. 13Damper RemovalFig. 14Damper Installation5. CYLINDER FRONT COVER AND CRANKSHAFT OIL SEALThe cylinder front cover is fastened to the cylinderblock by ten pan head screws and to the oil pan by twohex head bolts. Two dowels are used to locate the coveron the block. The ignition pointertiming is welded toa.the cover.NOTE: It is good practice to replace the front oilseal each time the cylinder front cover is removed.Cylinder Front Cover Removal.Remove the radiator, the crankshaft damper,and theoil pan. Remove the cover retaining screws, the cover,and the gasket.b. Oil Seal Replacement.Drive out the old seal with a pin punch, then cleanout the recess in the cover. Coat a new seal with grease,

Section 5 Cylinder Front Cover and Crankshaft Oil Seal 37then install the seal (fig. 15). Drive the seal in until itis fully seated in the recess. Check the seal after installation to be sure the spring is properly positioned in theseal.ToolT52L-6700-BEEc. Cylinder Front Cover Installation.Clean the cylinder front cover and the gasket surfaceof the cylinder block. Coat the gasket surface of theblock and the cover with sealer, then position a newgasket on the block. Place the cover on the block andinstall the retainingscrews. Tighten the screws to 6-9foot-pounds torque. Install the oil pan. Install the crankshaft damper and belt.On cars equipped with power steering, install thepower steering pump pulley and belt.CYLINDERFRONT COVER6549Install the radiator.Fig. 15Oil Seal Installation Typical6. SPROCKETS AND TIMING CHAIN, CAMSHAFT AND BEARINGS,AND TAPPETSThe camshaft is supported by four steel-backedbabbitt insert-type bearings pressed into the block. It isdriven by a sprocket and timingchain in mesh with asprocket on the crankshaft. Camshaft thrust is controlled by a spacer and a thrust plate located betweenthe camshaft sprocket and the shoulder on the camshaft. The plate is bolted to the front of the block. Aneccentric, made integral with the camshaft, operatesthe fuel pump.The removal and installation procedures given below are applicable when the engine is stalled in thecar. If the engine is removed, eliminate any steps notbolt. Tighten the bolt to 45-50 foot-pounds torque.Install the cylinder front cover, crankshaft damper,belt, and radiator.On cars equipped with power steering, install thepower steering pump pulley and belt.b. Camshaft.The camshaft and related parts are shown in fig. 17.(1) REMOVAL. Remove the radiator support bar,radiator, and the radiator grille assembly, cylinder frontcover, and oil pan.applicable.CAMSHAFT SPROCKET TIMING MARK12 PINS BETWEEN MARKSa. Sprockets and Timing Chain.The camshaft sprocket is a slip fit on, and is keyedto, the end of the camshaft.REMOVAL. Remove the radiator and the cylin(1)der front cover. Crank the engine until the timing markson the sprockets and chain are positioned as shown infig. 16.Remove the camshaft sprocket retaining bolt andwasher. Slide both sprockets and the timingward and remove them as an assembly.chain for(2)INSTALLATION. Place the keys in position inthe slots on the crankshaft and camshaft. Position thesprockets and timingshaft. Be sure the timingchain on the camshaft and crankmarks on the sprockets andchain are positioned as shown in fig. 16. There are 12timing chain link pins between the timing marks on thesprockets.Install the camshaft sprocket washer and retainingDRIVING SIDE OF CHAINCRANKSHAFT SPROCKET TIMING MARK1244Fig. 16Aligning Timing Marks

38 Chapter II 6-Cylinder EnginesDRIVECHAINCAMSHAFTSPROCKETBEARING (FRONTAND INT.)REAR BEARINGINT. BEARING-*,\SPACERREWORK CLOTHESPINCAMSHAFTTHRUST PLATE5HERALOCKWASHER SCREWFig. 17 Camshaft and Related Parts62983/i6 INCHRemove the rocker arm cover. Disconnect the ignition switch to coil wire from the engine clips, thenremove the push rod chamber cover. Remove the rockerarmassembly, then remove the valve push rods insequence.Remove the camshaft sprocket bolt. Crank theengine until the timingmarks on the sprocket and chainare positioned as shown in fig. 16. Remove the distributor cap, and scribe a line on the distributor housing andcylinder block to mark the position of the rotor anddistributor housing for installation, then remove thedistributor.Remove the sprockets and timing chain. Remove thecamshaft thrust plate, woodruff key, and spacer.Turn the camshaft until the tappets can be lifted witheither a magnet (fig.18), or the fingers. Raise thetappets clear of the camshaft lobes, and secure themwith spring-type clothes pins or window regulatorspring clips (figs. 18 and 19).Carefully remove the camshaft by pulling it towardthe front of the engine.fully6329Fig. 19Tappet RetainersINSTALLATION. Oil the camshaft and careslide it through the bearings. Install the thrustplate and spacer.NOTE: Be sure the chamfer on the inside of thespacer is to the rear or faces the camshaft journalwhen the spacer is installed.Tighten the retaining bolts to 12-15 foot-poundstorque. Install the woodruff key in the camshaft.Check the camshaft end play. If the end play is excessive, inspect the spacer for correct installation. Replace the thrust plate and/or spacer if necessary. Installthe sprockets and camshaft sprockettiming chain,washers and bolt,cylinder front cover, crankshaftdamper, drive belts,and oil pan.Install the hub and fan blades, fuel pump, radiator,radiator support bar, and radiator grille.CAUTION: Exercise the necessarydamagingthe camshaft bearings.Magnetic Tappet Liftercaution to avoidRelease the tappets and install the push rods, theninstall the rocker arm assembly.Install the distributor, using the scribed lines asguides to properly position the rotor and housing; makea preliminary valve lash adjustment. Install the distributor cap and carburetor air cleaner. Cement thegasket to the push rod chamber cover and install thecover. Tighten the retaining screws to 15-20 inchpoundstorque.Run the engine at fast idle and check for oil andcoolant leaks. Make a final (hot)valve lash adjustmentwith the engine idling. Install the rocker arm cover.Check the ignition timing and adjust the timing ifnecessary.c Tappet Replacement.Remove the camshaft as outlined in "b." Remove andFig.18Lifting and SecuringValve Tappets(2)install one tappet at a time through the bottom of theblock. A flexible-type holding tool can be used if desired.

STANDARDSection 6 Sprockets andTiming Chain, Camshaft and Bearings, and Tappets 39As each tappet is installed, it should be secured in theFig. 20 Camshaft Bore Plug Removal Fig. 22 Camshaft Bore Plug InstallationAdapter Too\T52i-626l-CEElup position.After the tappets are installed, install the camshaftas outlined in "b."d.Bearing Replacement.It will be necessary to remove the engine from thecar to replace camshaft bearings. The bearings areavailable pre-finished to size and require no reamingfor standard and 0.015 inch undersize journal diameters.Number 3 bearing is not interchangeable with the otherbearings.Fig. 21 Camshaft Bearings Removal or InstallationRemove the camshaft as outlined in "b." Remove theClean out the plug recess in the camshaft rear bore.flywheel and crankshaft. Push the pistons to the top Lightly coat the outer rim of a new plugwith sealer.of the cylinders to move the connecting rods out of theInstall the plugwith the tool shown in fig. 22.way. Knock out the camshaft rear bearing bore plugInstall the camshaft as outlined in "b." Install theworking from the front bearing bore, or drill a Vi inchhole in the plug and use the tool shown in fig. 20 toremove the plug. Remove the camshaft bearings withcrankshaft and flywheel, then install the engine in thecar.the tool shown in fig. 21.Position the bearing at the bearing bore,and press itin place with the tool shown in fig. 21. Number 1 cambearing must be pressed in 0.005-0.025 inch below thefront face of the bearing bore. Press the remaining bearings in sufficiently to align the oil supply holes.ToolT52L-6266-BGDCYLINDER BLOCK CORE PLUGS"DRILL Vi INCH HOLE IN PLUGCYLINDER BLOCKCORE PLUGS660012717. FLYWHEEL, CRANKSHAFT, AND MAIN BEARINGSThe crankshaft and related parts are shown in fig. 23.The procedure for replacing the clutch pilot bushing iscovered in Part TWO.On cars equipped with a standard or overdrive transmission, the rear face of the flywheel is used as a frictionsurface which is engaged by the clutch disc. The flywheel can be removed and installed with the enginea. Flywheel.The flywheel is piloted on a shoulder and is retainedon the crankshaft bysix bolts. The flywheel can bebolted to the crankshaft in only one position as thebolt holes are unequally spaced. The ring gear is ashrink fit on the flywheel.mounted in the car.The flywheel used on Fordomatic equipped cars hastwo laminated spring-steel drive plates riveted to theouter edge 180 apart, to which the converter cover isattached.(1) REMOVAL -OR OVERDRIVE

40 Chapter II 6-Cylinder EnginesCRANKSHAFT SPROCKETREAR OIL SEALFRONT OIL SEALSCREWWASHERSCREWCLUTCH PILOTBEARINGLOCKWASHERSCREWJR FRONT AND INTERMEDIATt~gL BEARING CAPBEARING CAPSIDE OIL SEALSFLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY6502Fig. 23 Crankshaft and Related PartsTRANSMISSION. Remove the transmission. Removethe flywheel housing dust cover. Mark the clutch assembly so it can be replaced in the same position. Removethe clutch release rod, spring, and bearing. Remove theclutch pressure plate and disc (Tool-7563). Remove theflywheel retaining bolts and pry the flywheel off thecrankshaft. Remove the flywheel through the housinglower access opening.CAUTION: Do not get grease or oil on the clutchcomponents.(2) INSTALLATION STANDARD OR OVERDRIVE TRANSMISSION. Position the flywheel onthe crankshaft flange and align the bolt holes, theninstall the mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts in sequenceacross from each other to 75-85 foot-pounds torque.Using a pilot shaft (Tool-6392-N)to locate the clutchdisc, install the pressure plate and disc. Install theclutch release rod, bearing, spring, and hub. Install theflywheel housing dust cover. Install the transmission.(3) REMOVAL FORDOMATIC. Remove the tworubber plugs from the floor pan, then remove the converter housing to engine block upper bolts. Raise thefront of the car and position safety stands. Remove thetransmission control linkage shield, the torque converterlower access plate, the torque converter air inlet shield,and the torque converter front access plate. Turn thetorque converter until the drain plug is at the loweredge. Drain the transmission and torque converter.Remove the drive shaft. Disconnect the speedometercable and transmission control rod at the transmission.Remove the battery cable from the starter,then removethe starter. Remove the transmission oil level indicatortube.Install the drain plug in the torque converter. Position a jack under the transmission. Remove the transmission support bolts. Remove the frame cross memberat the rear of the transmission. Remove the two lowerbolts securing the torque converter housing to theengine block. Move the transmission back far enough toclear the flex drive plate. Secure the torque converterto the housing.CAUTION: // the torque converter is not secured, itwill slideoffthe splines.Remove the flex drive plate from the crankshaft.(4) INSTALLATION FORDOMATIC. Position theflex drive plate on the crankshaft and align the boltholes, then install the mounting bolts. Tighten the boltsto 75-85 foot-pounds torque. Align the converter pilotand the housing dowel holes, then install the torqueconverter housingto engine block lower bolts. Installthe flex plate to converter bolts. Install the frame crossmember. Remove the jack. Install the transmission rearsupport bolts.Connect the transmission throttle control linkage, themanual control linkage, and the speedometer cable.Install the torque converter air inlet shield, controllinkage shield, torque converter housing front accesscover, the torque converter lower access cover,transmission oil level indicator tube.Install the starter, then connect the batteryand thecable tothe starter. Install the drive shaft. Remove the safetystands and lower the car. Install the converterhousingto engine block bolts. Install the rubber plugs and position the floor mat.Fill the transmission with fluid. Start the engine tofill the torque converter, then add fluid until the properlevel is reached on the oil level indicator. Check for

Section 7 Flywheel, Crankshaft, and Main Bearings 41leaks. Check and adjust the manual control, the neutralswitch, and the throttle linkage.b. Crankshaft.The crankshaft is precision-molded, alloy iron withintegral counterweights and is statically and dynamically balanced. Oil distribution holes are drilled throughthe shaft to pressure lubricate the main and connectingrod bearings.NOTE: Handle the crankshaft with care to avoidpossible fractures or damage to the finished surfaces.(1) REMOVAL. Remove the engine and install iton a work stand. Remove the flywheel housing, clutchassembly, flywheel or flex drive plate, and the enginerear plate. Mark the clutch pressure plate assembly soit can be installed in the same position on the flywheel.Remove the crankshaft damper, cylinder front cover,sprockets and timing chain. Remove the oil pan and theoil pump screen housing assembly.Make sure all bearing caps (main and connectingrod) are marked so they can be installed in theiroriginal locations. Remove the connecting rod bearingcaps, using care not to intermix the caps, then push thepistons to the topof the cylinders.Remove the mainbearing caps, and mark them forinstallation on the same journals. Carefully lift thecrankshaft out of the block so the thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged. Remove the rear journal oil sealfrom the block and rear bearing cap, and remove thecap to block side seals.(2)INSTALLATION. Be sure the bearings and thecrankshaft journals are clean. Install a new rear journaloil seal in the block and rear main bearingfully lower the crankshaft into place.cap. CareCAUTION: Be careful not to damage the bearingsurfaces.Check the clearance of each main bearing usingPlastigage (Chapter I). After the clearance has beenchecked and found to be satisfactory, apply a light coatof engine oil to the journals and bearings, then installall the bearing caps except the thrust bearing cap.Install new side seals when the rear main bearing capis installed. Install the thrust bearing cap and draw thecap bolts up lightly, then align the thrust bearingbolts to specifications.(Chapter I). Tighten the capCheck the crankshaft end play (Chapter I).Install the connecting rod caps in their original positions. Check the bearing clearance, using Plastigage(Chapter I). After the clearance has been checked andfound to be satisfactory, apply a light coat of engineoil to the journals and bearings, then install the rodcaps. Tighten the nuts to 45-50 foot-pounds torque.Install the pal nuts and tighten them to 3-4 foot-poundstorque. Check the end play of each rodconnecting(Chapter I).Install the engine rear plate. Install the flywheel orflex drive plate. Align the clutch disc (Tool-6392-N),compress the clutch pressure plate and springs,installthe pressure plate assembly. Install the flywheel housing. Install the sprockets and timingchain. Install thecylinder front cover, oil pump screen assembly and oilpan, the crankshaft damper, and belt.On cars equipped with power steering, install thepower steering pump pulley and belt.Install the engine in the car. Fill the crankcase, thenstart the engine and check for oil pressure and oil leaks.c. Main Bearings.The main bearings are the steel-backed, copper-lead,or lead-babbitt insert-type.Crankshaft end play is controlled by the number 3main bearing flanges.If the crankshaft has been removed, new bearings canbe readily fitted. However, the bearings can be fittedwith the engine in the chassis as follows:Remove the oil pan, then remove the oil pump.NOTE: Replace one bearingat a time, leaving theother bearings securely fastened.Remove the main bearing cap to which new bearings are to be fitted. Insert the upper bearing removaltool (Tool 6-331) in the oil hole in the crankshaft.Rotate the crankshaft in the opposite direction to enginerotation to force the bearing out of the block.NOTE: When replacingstandard bearings with newbearings, it is good practice to first tryproper clearance with two blue bearing halves.to obtain theTo install the upper main bearing, place the plainend of the bearing over the shaft on the locking tangside of the block. Using the same tool,rotate the crankshaft in the direction of engine rotation until the bearingseats itself. Remove the tool. Replace the bearing cap.Clean the crankshaft journal and bearings. Check thebearing clearance using Plastigage (Chapter I). Afterthe clearance has been checked and found to be satisfactory, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journalsand bearings, then install the bearing cap. Tighten thebolts to 95-105 foot-pounds torque.If the rear mainbearing is replaced, replace thejournal oil seals and the side seals.Install the oil pump and oil pan. Fill the crankcase,then start the engine and check for oil pressure and oilleaks.

42 Chapter II 6-Cylinder Engines8. CONNECTING RODS AND BEARINGS, PISTONS, PINS, AND RINGSThe piston and connectingbled in fig. 24.rod are shown disassemb. Piston and Connecting RodDisassembly.a. Piston andConnecting Rod Removal.Remove the oil pan and cylinder head. Before removing the piston assemblies, remove anyridge and/orcarbon deposits from the upper end of the cylinderbores. Move the piston to the bottom of its travel andplace a cloth on the piston head to collect the cuttings.Remove the cylinder ridge with a ridge cutter. Followthe instructions furnished byCAUTION: Never cut into the ringthe tool manufacturer.excess of 1/32 inch when removing ridges.travel area inAfter the ridge has been removed, remove the cutterfrom the cylinder bore, then turn the crankshaft untilthe position is at the top of its stroke and carefullyremove the cloth with the cuttings.Turn the crankshaft until the connecting rod beingremoved is down. Remove the pal nuts and the hex headnuts from the connecting rod bolts. Pull the capoff therod, then push the rod and piston assembly out the topof the cylinder with the handle end of a hammer.CAUTION: Avoid damage to the crankpin or thecylinder wall when removingthe piston and rod.Remove the glaze from the cylinder wall (Chapter I).Mark the pistons and pins to assure assembly withthe same rod and installation in the same cylinder fromwhich theywere removed. Remove the piston rings.Remove the piston pin retainers, then drive the pinout of the piston and rod (fig. 25). Discard the retainers.c. Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly.Lubricate all parts with light engine oil.NOTE: Assemble the piston and rod withconnectingthe oil squirt hole in the rod positioned as shown infig. 26.Position the connecting rod in the piston and push thepin into place.Insert new piston pin retainers by spiraling them intothe piston with the fingers. Do not use pliers.Follow the instructions contained in the piston ringpackage and install the piston rings.Be sure the bearings and journals are clean. If it isnecessary to replace the connecting rod bearings, replacethem at this time.d. Piston and Connecting RodInstallation.Repeat this procedure for each assembly.Oil the piston rings, pistons,and cylinder walls withNOTE: Each rod and bearing cap is numbered from1 to 6 from the front to the rearof the engine. Thenumbers on the rod and bearing capmust be on thesame side when installed in the cylinder bore. If arodconnecting is ever transposed from one block orcylinder to another, new bearings should be fitted,and the rod should be numbered to correspond withthe new cylinder number.light engine oil.NOTE: Be sure to install the pistons in the samecylinder from whichthey were removed,theywere fitted.or to whichMake sure the ring gaps are properly spaced aroundthe circumference of the piston. Install a piston ringcompressor on the piston and push the piston in with ahammer (fig. 27) until it is slightly below the top ofOILRINGASSEMBLYSPRING SPACERCONNECTING ROD CAPCOMPRESSION RINGSSTEEL RAILS 6385Fig. 24 Pisfon and Connecting Rod Disassembled

Section 8 Connecting Rods and Bearings, Pistons, Pins, and Rings 43the cylinder. Be sure to guide the connectingavoiddamaging the crankshaft journals.rods toNOTE: Install the piston with the indentation in thepiston head toward the front of the engine.Check the bearing clearance using Plastigage(Chapter I). After the clearance has been checked, andfound satisfactory, apply a light coat of engine oil to thejournals and bearings. Turn the crankshaft throw to thebottom of its stroke, then push the piston all the waydown until the rod bearing seats on the crankpin. Installthe rod cap, then tighten the bolts to 45-50 foot-poundstorque. Install the pal nuts and tighten them to 3-4 footpounds torque.POSITION OIL SQUIRTHOLE TO RIGHT WITHPISTON DOT FORWARDAfter all the piston and rod assemblies have beeninstalled, check the end play of the connecting rods(Chapter I).Install the oil pan and cylinder head. Fill the crankFig. 26 Correcf Position of Oil Squirt Hole6387case with the proper grade and amount of lubricant. Fillthe cooling system. Run the engine at fast idle. Makesure there is sufficient oil pressure and the engine doesnot overheat. Check for oil and coolant leaks.e.Connecting Rod Bearing Replacement.If the engine is removed and mounted on a stand, thebearings can be readily fitted. However, the bearingscan be fitted without removing the engine as follows:Remove the oil pan,then remove the oil pump.Remove the connecting rod bearing caps to whichnew bearings are to be fitted. Push the piston up in thecylinder, then remove the upper and lower bearings.Clean the crankshaft journal, the cap, and the upperhalf of the bearing bore.NOTE: When replacingstandard bearings with newbearings, it is good practice to first tryproper clearance with two blue bearing halves.to obtain theInstall the new bearings in the rod and cap. Checkthe fit using Plastigage (Chapter I). After the bearingfit has been checked and found to be satisfactory, applya light coat of engine oil to the journals and bearings,then install the rod cap. Tighten the bolts to 45-50 footpounds torque. Install the pal nuts, and tighten themto 3-4 foot-pounds torque. Repeat the procedure for theremaining bearings that need replacing.After all the bearings have been replaced, install theoil pump and oil pan. Fill the crankcase,the engine and check for oil pressure and oil leaks.then operatePiston Pin RemoverINSTALL PISTON WITHINDENTATION TOWARD TIGHTEN COMPRESSORFRONT OF ENGINE SECURELY 6149Tool FLM-6386INSTALL RING COMPRESSOR WITH RETAINER TOWARD SKIRT 1259Fig. 25 Piston Pin RemovalFig. 27 Pisfon /nsfa//afion

44 Chapter II 6-Cylinder Engines9. OIL PAN, OIL FILTER, AND OIL PUMPProcedures for the removal and installation of theabove components are presented below.a. Oil Pan.(1) REMOVAL. Drain the crankcase. Remove theoil level indicator. Remove the engine left and rightfront splash aprons.Remove the flywheel housing inspection cover. Remove the oil pan retainingand gasket.screws and remove the pan(2) INSTALLATION. Make sure the gasket surfacesof the block and pan are clean and free from burrs.Coat the block surface and oil pan gasket surface withsealer and position the gasket on the oil pan. Hold thepan in place against the block and install a screw,finger tight, at each end of the pan. Install the remaining screws, then tighten the screws from the centeroutward in each direction to 12-15 foot-pounds torque.Install the flywheel housing inspection cover. Installthe engine right and left front splash aprons.Install the oil level indicator. Fill the crankcase withthe proper grade and quantity of engine oil. Run theengine and check for oil leaks.b. Oil Filter.The full flow-type oil filter (fig. 28) filters the entireoutput of the pump before the oil enters the enginelubrication system.A built in by-pass provides oil to the system in casethe filter element becomes clogged. The by-pass islocated in the hollow center bolt and consists of aspring loaded valve. When the element is clean and oilwill flow through it, the pressure difference between theinner and outer faces of the valve is not great enoughto overcome the spring pressure behind the valve.Therefore, no oil flows through the by-pass. When theelement is dirty and will not permit a sufficient flow ofoil, the oil pressure acting on the inner face of the valvedrops. If the pressure difference between the valvefaces is great enough to overcome the spring pressure,the valve will open. Oil then by-passes the element,thereby maintaining an emergency supply of oil to theENTER TUBE BOLTFILTER HOUSING.SPRINGengine lubrication system until the source of restrictionto the normal oil flow is corrected.(1) REMOVAL. Remove the filter from the bottomof the car. Place a drippan under the filter. Removethe filter center bolt, then remove the filter assemblyand gasket.(2) DISASSEMBLY. Remove the filter element, neoprene gasket, spring, and seat,then remove the centerbolt from the container and the fiber gasket from thebolt. Discard the filter element and all gaskets. Washall parts in solvent. Make sure all the openings in thecenter bolt are clean.(3)center bolt,ASSEMBLY. Install a new fiber gasket on thethen place the bolt through the filter container. Install the spring and spring seat assembly on thebolt, makingsure the seat tangs are engaged in thespring. Install a new neoprene gasket and a new filterelement over the center bolt.(4) INSTALLATION. Check to see if the two elongated holes in the oil filter anti-drain back diaphragmare in the upposition as shown in fig. 29. Clean thecylinder block filter recess, then install a new gasket.Place the filter assembly in position, and thread thecenter bolt into the adapter finger-tight. Rotate thefilter assembly slightly, in each direction,to make surethe gasket is seated evenly. Tighten the center bolt to20-25 foot-pounds torque.CAUTION: Do not over tighten the center bolt.Refill the crankcase with oil if necessary, then operate the engine at fast idle, and check for leaks. If oilleaks are evident, perform the necessaryrect the leakage.c. Oil Pump.repairs to corA gear-type oil pump is mounted inside the crankcase in line with the distributor.The pump is driven by means of an intermediate hexshaped drive shaft. The shaft is pinned into the end ofthe distributor drive shaft.(1) REMOVAL. Remove the distributor, oil levelindicator, and the oil pan. Remove the two nuts andlockwashers retaining the pump to the cylinder block.Remove the pump and gasket. Thoroughly clean theold gasket material from the mounting pad on the blockFIBER GASKETSPRINGRETAINERBY-PASSVALVESPRINGBY-PASS VALVE^XV^SPRING RETAINERfNEOPRENEGASKETFILTERELEMENTGASKETBACK'ANTI -DRAINDIAPHRAGMFig. 28Oil Filter DisassembledADAPTERFITTING6080and pump.(2) DISASSEMBLY. Remove the screen assemblyretaining screws, the screen assembly, and gasket. Remove the cover retaining screws, cover, and gasket.Push the pump drive shaft and drive gear assemblyfrom the pump housing. Remove the driven gear. Remove the oil pressure relief valve chamber plug, spring,and plunger.

Section 9 Oil Pan, Oil Filter, and Oil Pump45TOP CYLINDER BLOCK GASKETSCREWLOCKWASHERPLUGHOUSINGDRIVENGEARCOVERCOVERGASKETSTRAINER FLANGEGASKETSCREWSCREW6081SCREEN-SNAP WIRE- 6331Fig. 29 Oil Filter Anti-Drain Back Diaphragm PositionFig. 30Oil Pump DisassembledRemove the snap wire retaining the pump screen,and remove the screen from the housing. The oil pumpand screen are shown disassembled in fig. 30.(3) ASSEMBLY. Applya light coat of engine oil toNUTall moving parts.Install the pressure relief valveplunger, spring, andplug. Tighten the plug to 33-38 foot-pounds torque.Slide the drive gear and shaft assembly into thehousing. Install the driven gear. Check the end play ofthe gears using Plastigage or a dial indicator (ChapterI). Apply sealer to both sides of the pump cover gasket,then position the gasket on the pump. Install the pumpcover, but do not tighten the retaining screws. Installthe screen in the screen cover and secure it with theretainer. Install the inlet tube gasket, and the screenand inlet tube assembly on the pump cover. Tightenthe retaining screws to 12-15 foot-pounds torque. Rotatethe pump shaft by hand to make sure it turns freely.(4)INSTALLATION. Place a new gasket on theretaining bolts, slide the pump mounting flange overthe retaining bolts, and install the lock washers andnuts. Tighten the nuts to 30-35 foot-pounds torque. Install the distributor.Install the oil pan. Fill the crankcase with the propergrade and quantity of oil.Run the engine at fast idle and check for oil pressureand oil leaks.10. EXHAUST SYSTEMThe exhaust system consists of a muffler, a muffleroutlet pipe, and a muffler inlet pipe (fig. 31). Theseparts are provided as individual service parts.NOTE: When replacing anypartof the exhaustsystem, loosen all the frame attaching bracket clampsto relieve twists in the system, then tighten theclamps.at the rear of the muffler. Separate the outlet pipe andmuffler, by sliding the outlet pipe to the rear. Loosenthe muffler inlet pipe clamp and slide the clamp awayfrom the muffler. Separate the muffler from the inletpipe, then remove the muffler.(2) INSTALLATION. Position the new muffler andclamp on the inlet pipe. Slide the muffler forward ona. Muffler Replacement.Extra heavy, double-wall constructed mufflersarethe inlet pipe until the slots in the muffler extension areblocked. However, do not slide the muffler on the inletpipe more than l3/4 inches. Align the muffler. Rotateavailable for service.(1)REMOVAL. Loosen the outlet pipe to framerear clamp, then remove the lower half of the clampthe inlet pipe clamp downward approximately45the clamp opening is not positioned directly oppositethe slots in the muffler extension.so

46 Chapter II 6-Cylinder EnginesCARRIAGE BOLTBOLT6501Fig. 31Exhaust SystemSlide the outlet pipe forward into the muffler extension until the slots in the muffler extension are blocked.However, do not slide the pipe into the muffler morethan l3/4 inches. Connect, but do not tighten, the lowerhalf of the clamp at the rear of the muffler. Check forpossible interference between the outlet pipe "kick-up"and the floor pan. Reposition the outlet pipe if necessary. Tighten the outlet pipe clamps.b. Outlet Pipe Replacement.The outlet pipe is attached to the frame by flexiblesound deadening materials which not onlyprevent theexhaust noises from being conducted through the chassisframe, but also relieve the exhaust system from twistingor bending stresses.(1) REMOVAL. Remove the lower half of the clampat the rear of the muffler, then remove the rear clampfrom its support. Separate the muffler and outlet pipe.(2)INSTALLATION. Slide the outlet pipe into themuffler extension until the slots in the muffler extensionare blocked. However, do not slide the pipe into themuffler more than \3A inches. Slide the rearclamp onthe outlet pipe and connect, but do not tighten it to itssupport. Connect, but do not tighten, the lower half ofthe clamp at the rear of the muffler. Check for possibleinterference between the outlet pipe "kick-up" and thefloor pan. Reposition the outlet pipe if necessary.Tighten the outlet pipe clamps.c. Inlet Pipe Replacement.The muffler inlet pipe is designed to give the exhaustgases leavingthe exhaust manifolds a direct throughpassage to the muffler, thereby increasingefficiencyof the exhaust system.(1)the over-allREMOVAL. Loosen the outlet pipe clamps andthe muffler inlet pipe clamp. Remove the two nuts fastening the inlet pipe to the exhaust manifold. Slide themuffler to the rear, then separate the muffler and inletpipe. Remove the inlet pipe and gasket.(2) INSTALLATION. Slide the clampon the newinlet pipe, then slide the inlet pipe into the mufflerextension until the slots in the extension are blocked.However, do not slide the pipe into the muffler morethan \3A inches. Install a new gasket on the exhaustmanifold outlet flange studs, then connect the inlet pipeto the exhaust manifold. Tighten the bolts to 23-28foot-pounds torque. Position the muffler, then tightenthe outlet pipe clamps. Rotate the inlet pipe clampdownward approximately 45 degrees so the clamp opening is not positioned directly opposite the slots in themuffler extension, then tighten the clamp.

LITHO IN U.S.A.7098-56