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Nam Ky Khoi Nghia - Asialife HCMC

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American chiropractor Wade Brackenbury has traversed the globe’s least<br />

explored regions—guerrilla-occupied Guatemalan jungles, the inner<br />

mountains of Tibet, the Congo’s depths—all in a quest to find meaning.<br />

Beth Young speaks to Brackenbury about his extraordinary journeys.<br />

A conversation with American<br />

expatriate Dr Wade Brackenbury<br />

is peppered with exciting<br />

anecdotes about his vast travels—from<br />

an encounter with<br />

an angry Melanesian giant in<br />

Papua New Guinea, to a search<br />

for archaeological treasures<br />

in Central America aboard a<br />

handmade raft.<br />

The chiropractor-cumadventurer,<br />

it would seem, is<br />

as comfortable in the outdoors<br />

as he is adjusting a problem<br />

back or administering Korean<br />

acupuncture.<br />

What’s most unique about<br />

Brackenbury though is his<br />

inability to give up. While his<br />

expeditions have been far from<br />

easy, this atypical traveller sees<br />

his plans out from beginning<br />

to end—regardless of what<br />

obstacles may arise.<br />

Early Adventures<br />

Brackenbury’s wanderlust began<br />

as a teenager. Growing up<br />

in a small country town with a<br />

population of just 400 spurred<br />

him to see the world, and living<br />

close to the earth—his parents<br />

owned a ranch—piqued his<br />

interest in societies that rely<br />

totally on nature.<br />

His first trip was a plan<br />

hatched with a close high<br />

school friend. The two fledgling<br />

explorers had just watched an<br />

Indiana Jones film and were<br />

inspired by the archaeologist’s<br />

exploits. Though they knew<br />

little about the country, they<br />

decided to walk across Australia.<br />

It was a feat they quickly<br />

realized would be difficult.<br />

“We got this map out of Australia<br />

and both said ‘Oh look at<br />

all that desert. That might be<br />

tough!’ But we decided to go<br />

anyway,” he laughs.<br />

The pair amended their<br />

itinerary, but only slightly. They<br />

hitchhiked across New Zealand<br />

and Australia for three months,<br />

before Brackenbury travelled<br />

alone to Papua New Guinea.<br />

There, he spent four months<br />

hiking to the tip of the highlands<br />

that separate the country<br />

from Indonesia Papua.<br />

Even this first trip was anything<br />

but smooth. Brackenbury<br />

flew a mail plane into the country’s<br />

interior and directly into<br />

a feudal war—a hiccup that<br />

didn’t faze him in the slightest.<br />

What finally sent him home<br />

was a run in with a drunken<br />

local man that left Brackenbury<br />

and his female companion<br />

beaten to a pulp.<br />

He still had the travel bug<br />

though. Back in America he<br />

studied for a few years before<br />

setting off on another journey,<br />

this time to Guatemala.<br />

His companion was a young<br />

woman who was studying Mayan<br />

culture. Together they rode<br />

a motorbike from Mexico City<br />

to Guatemala, then all the way<br />

to the head of the Pasion River,<br />

where a group of Mennonite<br />

missionaries helped them build<br />

a raft.<br />

They floated the raft for a<br />

month looking for undiscovered<br />

ruins. “We were hoping<br />

to find some Mayan gold. We<br />

had some amazing adventures<br />

instead,” says Brackenbury.<br />

At the time, the country was<br />

embroiled in a civil war, and at<br />

night when the pair stopped to<br />

camp in the jungle, Guatemalan<br />

guerrillas would often stop by<br />

to investigate. “It was worrisome,<br />

but nothing bad ever<br />

happened,” says Brackenbury.<br />

Next Stop<br />

Brackenbury’s later voyages<br />

were more purposeful. His<br />

skills as a kayaker and mountaineer<br />

made him an invaluable<br />

asset for an anthropological<br />

trek through Western Africa<br />

in 1997, and he was hired as a<br />

paramedic.<br />

The expedition’s goal was<br />

to gauge how Eboli outbreaks<br />

in the region had affected the<br />

local people. However, the tour<br />

leader had a nervous breakdown<br />

and abandoned the expedition<br />

early on. Everyone was<br />

expected to return home, but<br />

Brackenbury stayed on. “We<br />

didn’t want to go home and<br />

fail. There was a lot of pressure<br />

to quit though,” he says.<br />

A 17-year-old American boy<br />

also remained, and the two<br />

travelled through the Nadoki<br />

Swamp across the Congo,<br />

where they lived with a pygmy<br />

tribe for two months. Brackenbury<br />

admired the pygmies’<br />

respect for nature and their<br />

gratitude to the Earth. As such,<br />

Brackenbury and his companion<br />

emulated the pygmies. “I’d<br />

read one book and then I’d give<br />

it to him to read. When he was<br />

finished he’d cut the pages out<br />

to build a fire.”<br />

A trip to innermost Tibet is<br />

Brackenbury’s most memorable<br />

and meaningful adventure<br />

though—perhaps because it<br />

44 asialife <strong>HCMC</strong> asialife <strong>HCMC</strong> 45

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