SMITHSONIAN STUDIES IN HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY(as had the voltigeur hat adopted in 1847), severalbuttons, a hat cord with acorns, a plume, and a sideeagle, the cost |1.05 with a chin strap, the trimmingscosting an additional $.50.°In 1857 the cost of the hat and trimmings werelisted as:HatCord and acorns1 buckle, 1 letter, 2 buttonsPlumeEagle$1.22.13.05.15.05$1.60"It should be noted that as the hat was prescribedfor wear by only the two cavalry regiments in the<strong>Army</strong>, no branch of service device other than theyellow hat cord was authorized.It is not strange that a broad-brimmed hatshould have been adopted; rather it is reasonableto conjecture why such was not adopted earlier andthen for two specific regiments only. With a largepercentage of the <strong>Army</strong> on the frontier, the 1832-1833 dress caps and the dual purpose 1851-1854cap were highly unsuitable.'' The 1839 forage capwas popular and reasonably serviceable, but it hadthe shortcomings of being pervious to water, withno waterproof cover provided, and of being issuedat the rate of but one every five years.'' During theWar with Mexico, although the troops had thisforage cap, many officers and men alike purchasedbroad-brimmed felt or straw hats from the Mexicans."The natural answer was the Andrews orvoltigeur-type hat, which, although it did not reachthe troops in the field before the end of the war,was issued in the limited quantities manufacturedto the 2d Dragoons in Texas in 1851." This wasthe story throughout the 1850s and, until a campaignhat was prescribed for the whole <strong>Army</strong> in1858, both officers and enlisted men of all the armswore broad-brimmed, slouched hats of every colorand description, which they had purchased themselves,as protection against the elements, despitethe fact that the issue model was provided with acover that had a cape covering the neck." Evenmore to the point, in 1858, after a hat had beenauthorized for the whole <strong>Army</strong>, Secretary of WarJohn B. Floyd, in a letter to the Chairman of theHouse Ways and Means Committee justifying theextra expenditure involved in adopting the hat,wrote: "The old cap was . . . utterly unsuited forthe service: affording little or no protection to thesoldier, exposing him unnecessarily to scorchingsuns, to drenching rains, and cold and sweepingwinds, and adding to the unavoidable hardships ofactive service one which could reasonably be obviatedby the use of a felt hat such as has now beenadopted." Floyd went on to state that many officersand men had provided themselves with hats attheir own expense.'"Nothing is known of the origin of the patternhat except that it was the property of a "privateindividual" and was returned to him after use bythe board and the Quartermaster General." Whoeveractually designed the hat, at least two membersof the board may well have influenced thepattern. Major William Hardee, the recorder, hadserved in the 2d Dragoons during the period inwhich that unit was issued the voltigeur hats andmay well have suggested the buttons and chinstrap, both of which had been on the voltigeur pattern.Perhaps even more to the point regardingstyle, in 1854, Sumner, the president of the board,then of the 1st Dragoons, reporting on a lengthyinspection trip to Europe, stated in his "Notes onTroops in Belgium and Holland" that the besthead dress for a soldier he had ever seen was wornby the Belgian Chasseur a Pied. "It is a hat witha medium sized brim, turned up on the left side,worn with a cover in undress, and without thecover, and with a cockade, and small black featherin full dress. I think it is well adopted to our service,and looks remarkably well, either singly, or inlarge bodies.'"' When Sumner returned from histrip, he brought back with him two hats he hadpurchased in London, not further described, andfor which he was reimbursed by the government."These hats, of which nothing definite is known,were turned over to the Quartermaster General andforwarded to the Philadelphia quartermaster.'" Aswe know, however, neither of these was the patternfurnished by the board.Whatever exactly this hat was, despite the factthat Jefferson Davis as Secretary of War, approvedthe model, and despite the fact that Hardee was amember and recorder of the board that recommendedit, it was not the hat that has become sowell known as the "Jeff Davis" or "Hardee." In1858 when a "hat" was prescribed for the whole<strong>Army</strong>, Davis had not been Secretary of War for ayear and Hardee was not a member of the boardrecommending the change. The 1858 board, in its
NUMBER 30report, stated: "The hat proposed is in the opinionof the Board equally suitable for troops of all armsof the service and it is accordingly recommendedfor the whole <strong>Army</strong>, except for the Cavalry, as nonecessity appears to exist for changing the hat ofthis Corps." The board then supplied detailedmeasurements for the model and two identical patternhats made on request by Warnock and Co. ofNew York, one trimmed and one untrimmed."' InDecember 1858, Jesup, in answer to a query froman officer of the 1st Cavalry, wrote that the cost ofthe "Cavalry Hat complete, pattern of <strong>1855</strong> is11.46" and that "the cost of the <strong>Army</strong> Hat complete,pattern of 1858, is |3.37."" In 1859, one cavalryofficer, in submitting his requisition for hats,stated that he "would prefer those of the new pattern,""'while another officer of the same regimentin asking for chin straps for use with the hats issuedhim stated that such "were issued with the old patternhats."''The size, shape, and appearance of this hat waslong unknown, and no authenticated specimen ofit was known to exist. The first hint came whenthis chapter was in draft with the discovery of apurported illustration of a "U.S. Cavalry Hat(Felt) " on what appeared to be an advertisingbroadside for military headgear found pasted tothe inside cover of a copy of Horstmann's 1851 uniformcatalog'^ (Figure 1). Although, as can beseen, the hat is black, or certainly dark, has a flatcrown, and carries the side eagle, plumes, hat cordwith acorns, and the chin strap as prescribed, theabsence of citation made its authenticity questionable.A stronger hint regarding the hat was found ina block of the Quartermaster General's correspondencein the National Archives. Early in 1858 (itmust be remembered that the first contract for the1858 <strong>Army</strong> hat was not let until 30 July 1858) theSecretary of War authorized the exchange of anumber of items of arms, uniforms, and equipmentwith the Danish government. Among theuniforms listed was one "Cavalry Hat, with Eagleand plume" with the "letter A fixed on the Hat.'""In the summer of 1970, a member of the Smithsonianmuseum staff located the exchanged articlesin the Tojhusmuseet (Royal Arsenal Museum) inCopenhagen. Among the items was the "CavalryHat" with the "letter A" affixed, identical to thatpictured in the advertizing broadside."'Figure 1—"U.S. Cavalry Hat (Felt)."(See text and note 25 for source.)The hat (Figure 2) is black, of a fur or woolfelted material artificially stiffened with shellac. Sixand one-half inches in height, the hat measures51/2 inches across the crown with a 3-inch-widebrim, tightly bound with a i^-inch black tape. Theleather sweat band of a near-maroon color measures23/8 inches. The crown is reinforced at thetop and down the sides with a dish-like insert 13^inches deep of an i/^-inch-thick hard cardboard-likematerial with a painted finish, apparently gluedin. The i^/^-inch-wide two-piece black leather chinstrap, I814 inches long overall, is stitched to theinside of the hat 3i/^ inches above the brim. (Theother end had been similarly stitched but has comeloose.) The brass chin strap buckle is Y^ by 3/^inches with rounded corners. The brim is loopedup on the right side with a small general servicebutton sewed to the brim at the point of juncture.This button apparently was intended to hold inplace the side eagle, which is missing with no signof it ever having been affixed. The cords drapedabout the crown are of yellow worsted, two strandstwisted, 'i/g inches in diameter, basted to the crown1 inch from the top in rear and draping 37/^ inchesin front. The cord about the base of the hat, whichis completely separate from the cords above, is ofthe same size and material and terminates in two
- Page 1: • ^ - :lP-'L^ry\'^ ^iT
- Page 4 and 5: ABSTRACTHowell, Edgar M. United Sta
- Page 7 and 8: ContentsPagePrefaceiiiThe 1855 Cava
- Page 9: United States Army Headgear 1855-19
- Page 13 and 14: NUMBER 30acorns %g inches long and
- Page 15 and 16: NUMBER 30the pattern." The rate of
- Page 17 and 18: NUMBER 30FIGURE 3.—1858 Army hat.
- Page 19 and 20: NUMBER 3011model, number 60 in the
- Page 21 and 22: NUMBER 30 13"the desired modificati
- Page 23 and 24: NUMBER 30 15the sun in the top. The
- Page 25 and 26: NUMBER 30 17FIGURE 8.—1858 forage
- Page 27 and 28: NUMBER 30 19Hardtack and Coffee, ca
- Page 29 and 30: NUMBER 3021FIGURE 11.—a, Brigadie
- Page 31 and 32: NUMBER 30 23short "shell" jacket "f
- Page 33 and 34: NUMBER 30 26broad, securely soldere
- Page 35 and 36: NUMBER 30 27worn in the picture wer
- Page 37 and 38: NUMBER 30 29This communication elic
- Page 39 and 40: NUMBER 30 31FIGURE 17.—"The [Scot
- Page 41 and 42: NUMBER 30 33time for issue in the c
- Page 43 and 44: NUMBER 30 35be at too great a dista
- Page 45 and 46: NUMBER 3037half (5/2) part of washb
- Page 47 and 48: NUMBER 30 39trimmings for all enlis
- Page 49 and 50: NUMBER 30 41ing the upper space for
- Page 51 and 52: NUMBER 30rear one to a correspondin
- Page 53 and 54: NUMBER 30 46FIGURE 29.—1872 enlis
- Page 55 and 56: NUMBER 3047FIGURE 32.—^The Bent &
- Page 57 and 58: NUMBER 3049of strong split-leather
- Page 59 and 60: NUMBER 30 51''""MttfenFIGURE 35.—
- Page 61 and 62:
NUMBER 30 53(which he thought might
- Page 63 and 64:
NUMBER 30 55FIGURE 38.—Captain Be
- Page 65 and 66:
NUMBER 30 57campaign hat for the Ar
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NUMBER 30 59salvage something from
- Page 69 and 70:
NUMBER 30 61hat. In June 1899 the P
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NUMBER 3063the left side, pass diag
- Page 73 and 74:
NUMBER 30 65.LJU^.."*^..FIGURE 44.
- Page 75 and 76:
NUMBER 30 67to be sent to Washingto
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NUMBER 30 69with brass sliding-buck
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NUMBER 30 71FIGURE 48.—Officers'
- Page 81 and 82:
NUMBER 3073The adoption of the whit
- Page 83 and 84:
NUMBER 3075i >•^\Wiii I ifiiiniim
- Page 85 and 86:
NUMBER 30this last model made no pr
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NUMBER 30 79WAR DEPARTMENT,QUARTERM
- Page 89 and 90:
NUMBER 3081FIGURE 58.—1864 chapea
- Page 91 and 92:
NUMBER 30geon 1880 and Surgeon Gene
- Page 93 and 94:
NUMBER 3085FIGURE 63.—1895 forage
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NUMBER 30 87of not less than 9.24 g
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AppendixMAKERS OF HEADGEARThe chron
- Page 99 and 100:
List of AbbreviationsAAGAAQMAGAGOAQ
- Page 101 and 102:
NUMBER 3093all OQMG, LS, Clothing,
- Page 103 and 104:
NUMBER 30 95"Jesup to Thomas, 8 Dec
- Page 105 and 106:
NUMBER 3097OQMG, Reg. LR, Clothing,
- Page 107 and 108:
NUMBER 30 99October of 1870. See Me
- Page 109 and 110:
NUMBER 30 101'"* See above, pp. 35-
- Page 111 and 112:
NUMBER 30 103Monroe, Va., in 1878.
- Page 113 and 114:
NUMBER 30 105""Endorsement, 24 May
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ReferencesThe bulk of the source ma
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M MBIiR 30 10910, No. 355-10, 19 Se