104 SMITHSONIAN STUDIES IN HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY""Meigs to Rogers, 19 April 1881, OQMG, LS, Clothing,RG 92, NA.""Meigs to Rucker, 28 April 1881, OQMG, LS, Clothing,RG 92, NA. The actual contracts were dated 5 May.These contracts specified that OQMG was to furnish thenecessary dies and cutters. See contract with Horstmanndated 5 May 1881 in Branch E, Regular SuppHes, RG 92,NA. There were of necessity four separate dies for the frontplates, i.e., one for infantry, artillery, cavalry, and staff.Comparison of a number of these plates shows a few minorvariations between the four in the basic design.'"Contracts with Raymold and Whidock, 1 July 1882and 4 June 1883, both in Exec. Doc. No. 83, Senate, 49thCongress, 1st Session. CHAPPELLE, in his monograph "BrassSpikes & Horsehair Plumes" (p. 31), states that the earlier1881 pattern helmets, especially those of the 1882 and1883 contracts, "were blocked in much the same style asthe model 1872 helmet." This is incorrect. This author hascarefully examined 28 1881 enlisted models with contractdates running through the entire 21 years of the model's use,and there is no such blocking or variation as he states. Admittedly,the illustrations Mr. Chappell cites are misleading,primarily because the specimens in them are shownwith the top pieces in place.'"G.O. No. 52, HQ of A, 14 June 1881, RG 94, NA.'" An excellent cut-down version carrying this label isin the personal collection of Gordon Chappelle.'" Information received from Dr. Byron Fairchild, Departmentof State, 13 March 1972 and in HEITMAN, HistoricalRegister, yo\. 1."^ There is an extant photograph of Kilpatrick's bier inValpariso surmounted by what appears to be a U.S. <strong>Army</strong>general officer's coat with elaborate nonregulation cuff andcollar embroidery and this helmet. The matter of dress fordiplomats was vague in this period, to say the least. GenerallyAmerican diplomats wore what they wished, no matterwhat the Department of State said. An 1853 State Dept.circular stated that "simple citizen's dress" was preferred,but allowed discretion in individual cases to conform tothe customs of the foreign nation concerned. The Act of28 July 1866 (14 Stat 332) permitted a Civil War Unionveteran to wear the uniform prescribed during the war, anda resolution of Congress in 1867 prohibited diplomats fromwearing uniforms or official dress not previously authorizedby Congress. Information from Department of State (HistoricalDept.).""G.O. No. 67, HQ of A, 28 September 1886, RG 94,NA.'" U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, Regulations for the <strong>Army</strong> ofthe <strong>United</strong> <strong>States</strong>, 1889, p. 207.'"U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1883, pp. 18, 56."" Capt. H. F. Kendall, "An <strong>Army</strong> Uniform.""" Journal of the <strong>United</strong> <strong>States</strong> Cavalry Association, vol.10 (June 1897), pp. 188-192, 192-195.'" For the Woodhull Report, see p. 28.'"For details on this, see pp. 52-57.'"Meigs to Sir Edward Thornton, 6 March 1875, AG,LR, MC 666, roll 440, RG 94, NA."* Meigs to Sec. War, 13 March 1875, AG, LR, MC 666,roll 440, RG 94, NA. The origin of this helmet is somewhatuncertain. Written on the margin of the letter oppositethe first mention of the helmet is the notation:"These samples were left at the QM Gnls. office in August1869 by William A. Dr . (?) & Co. of Phila.""" 1st Endorsement 18 March 1875, to Meigs to Sec. War,13 March 1875 MC 666, roll 440, RG 94, NA.""Thornton to Meigs, 8 May 1875; Meigs to Thornton,14 May 1875; both AG, LR, MC 666, roll 440, RG 94, NA.'"Meigs to Sec. War, 19 May 1875, AG, LR, MC 666,roll 440, RG 94, NA.'"2d and 3d Endorsements, 1 June 1875 and 26 June1875, to Ibid, [note 437]."" Ingalls to Col. Robert Allen, San Francisco, 28 June1875; Col. Van Vliet, Phila., to QMG, 4 October 1875 and3d Endorsement; all in AG, LR, MC 666, roll 440, RG94, NA."" There are a number of these comments appended toLt. Col. C. A. Reynolds, Ft. Yuma, Cal. to Meigs, 30 June1877, AG, LR, MC 666, roll 440, RG 94, NA.'"Capt. Hooker, 9th Cav., to AG, 26 January 1878, AG,LR, MC 666, roll 440, RG 94, NA.'"6th Endorsement, 18 March 1878, to Hooker to AG,26 January 1878; Meigs to Lt. Duggan, 10th Inf., 16 October1878, OQMG, LS, Clothing, RG 92, NA."' 7th Endorsement to Hooker to AG, 26 January 1878[note 441].'"Bingham to Rucker, Phila., 9 April 1878; Rogers toMajor Dana, Phila., 6 May 1878, and 2d Endorsement; bothAG, LR, MC 666, roll 440, RG 94, NA; Gen. Schofield,West Point, to Meigs, 6 April 1878, AG, LR, RG 94, NA.These specifications were generally similar to, but somewhatmore elaborate than, those for the original cadetmodel given in G.O. No. 121 WD.""Meigs to Rucker, 10 May 1878, AG, LR, MC 666, roll440, RG 94, NA. The maker is unknown. No contract forthe order appears in executive documents. They apparentlywere bought on an open order in the interest of speed andin view of the small amount involved.""Col. Geo. Getty, Ft. Monroe, to AG, 21 May 1878,AG, LR, MC 666, roll 440, RG 94, NA. The cadets receivedthe chin chains and the brass spikes in 1881. On this,see TODD, Cadet Gray, p. 71."'4th Endorsement to Col. Getty to AG, 21 May 1878[note 446]; AG to CO Arty. School, 14 June 1878, AG,LS, RG 94, NA.'"U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1878, p. 79; (ibid.,1879, p. 70. Although the statement of purchases and issuesfor FY 1879, in the latter citation, shows 251 cork helmetspurchased and 250 issued (the extra one obviously beingretained as a sample) the statement does not show that anychin chains and spikes were procured, although the metalfittings for other head gear are listed in detail.""QM Specification No. 2, adopted 5 May 1880, RG 92,NA. These specifications were drawn up expressly for thehelmet to be issued the artillery school and were followedwhen the headpiece was approved for general issue. SeeVan Vliet (for Meigs) to Rucker, 15 May 1880, OQMG,LS, Clothing, RG 92, NA.'""QM Specification No. 2, adopted 5 May 1880, RG 92,NA.'"' U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1884, plate 4.'"' Shafter to AG, 13 May 1880, AG, LR, RG 94, NA.
NUMBER 30 105""Endorsement, 24 May 1880, to above [note 452]; copyin OQMG, LS, Clothing, under that date.*"* Meigs to Rucker, 31 May 1880; Meigs to Rucker, 28May 1880; both OQMG, LS, Clothing, RG 92, NA; <strong>United</strong><strong>States</strong> <strong>Army</strong> and Navy Journal, 19 June 1880, p. 951.'""RG 94, NA; Exec. Doc. No. 51, Senate, 47th Congress,1st Session; contract with Henry V. Allien, 29 May 1883,Exec. Doc. No. 83, Senate 49th Congress, 1st Session.'""U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1883, p. 56; <strong>United</strong><strong>States</strong> <strong>Army</strong> and Navy Journal, 1 July 1882, p. 1109; Ingallsto Phila. Depot, 17 April 1882, OQMG, LS, Clothing,RG 92, NA.'"' See QM Specification No. 330, 5 August 1892, RG 92,NA.'"'U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1899, p. 6; QMSpecification No. 478, 23 September 1899, RG 92, NA. Inthis particular case there is a disparity between the contractdates stamped in the specimens examined and the adoptiondate of the specification, 4 March and 27 June 1899, and23 September 1899. Since the specimens conform very preciselyto the specifications it is reasonable to infer that thespecifications had been drawn up some months before actualprinted publication, a circumstance which often occurred.'""QM Specification No. 500, 25 January 1900, RG 92,NA.'""RG94, NA.'"' HOWELL AND KLOSTER, "<strong>United</strong> <strong>States</strong> <strong>Army</strong> <strong>Headgear</strong>to 1854," p. 22 and notes.'"' On this particular, see Callendar Irvine to Sec. War, 25April 1825, Commissary General of Purchases, LS, RG 92,NA. For a description of the 1825 pattern, see HOWELLAND KLOSTER, "<strong>United</strong> <strong>States</strong> <strong>Army</strong> <strong>Headgear</strong> to 1854,"pp. 22-25.'" Ibid., p. 38.'"* Ibid., pp. 40-53.'""Ibid., pp. 60-61.'""Jesup to Col. Thomas, Phila., 10 September 1858,OQMG, LS, Clothing, and numerous similar entries for1859; all RG 92, NA. Other protective clothing duringthese campaigns included buffalo overshoes, worsted throatmufflers, and buckskin mittens lined with flannel and madeto come up over the coat cuff.'"'U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1865, pp. 65, 81.'"^ See pp. 28-35 above.'""On this, see U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1871,pp. 51, 55; ibid., 1872, p. 57; ibid., 1873, p. 65. Apparentlythe 304 fur caps were issued during fiscal year 1874as the inventories for that year omit any mention of them.""G.O. No. 39, HQ of A, 10 May 1876. The board wasset up by S.O. No. 264, HQ of A, 27 December 1875; bothRG 94, NA.'"QM Specification No. 7, adopted 23 May 1876, RG92, NA.'"QM Contracts, RG 92, NA; G.O. No. 107, HQ of A,31 October 1876; RG 94, NA.'"U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1877, p. 77.'"Ibid., 1877, p. 26; ibid., 1878, pp. 79, 83."" Exec. Doc. No. 40, Senate, 45th Congress, 3d Session.""QM Specification No. 6, 12 March 1879, RG 92, NA."'For this see U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1878-1884.'"Ibid., 1884, pp. 21, 382, 612."" Ibid., p. 681 and plate 6., ""Ibid., 1886, pp. 186-187; QM Specification No. 175,22 June 1886, RG 92, NA.'" G.O. No. 48, HQ of A, 6 July 1887, RG 94, NA; U.S.WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1887, p. 213.'"QM Specification No. 580, 25 August <strong>1902</strong>, RG 92,NA.'^'Act of July 28, 1866, "An Act to Increase and Fix theMilitary Peace Establishment of the <strong>United</strong> <strong>States</strong>," section6."'U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARSW, 1868, p. 731a.'""Register of Enhstment of Indian Scouts; G.O. No. 38,HQ of A, 28 March 1890; both RG 94, NA.""Casey to Sec. War, 3 June 1890, and endorsements, inAG, LR, RG 94, NA. The Secretary of War's approval wasdated 19 July 1890.'"'QMG (thru Deputy QMG, Phila.) to QM SchuylkillArsenal, 17 September 1890, LS, Deputy QMG, Phila.;QM, Schuylkill Arsenal to Deputy QMG, Phila., 29 September1890, LR, Deputy QMG, Phila.; QMG, to DeputyQMG, Phila., 13 September 1890, Reg. LR, Deputy QMG,Phila., 13 September 1890, Reg. LR, Deputy QMG, Phila.;all RG 92, NA. As of June 1890, there were a total of 383scouts in the service, including 32 sergeants, and 26 corporals.U.S. WAR DEPARTMENT, ARQMG, 1890, p. 69."'Deputy QMG, Phila. to QM Schuylkill Arsenal, 29September 1890, LS, Deputy QMG, Phila., RG 92, NA.'""QMG to Deputy QMG, Phila., 21 November 1890,Reg. LR, Deputy QMG, Phila.; Deputy QMG, Phila., toQMG, 22 November 1890, LS, Deputy QMG, Phila.; bothRG 92, NA.'""QMG to Deputy QMG, Phila., 22 November 1890,LR, Deputy QMG, Phila.; Abstract of Proposals "Clothingfor Indian Scouts" opened 8 December 1890, LR, DeputyQMG, Phila.; (Horstmann was the sole bidder); Horstmannto Deputy QMG, Phila., 10 December 1890, LR, DeputyQMG, Phila.; both RG 92, NA.'"'G.O. No. 81, HQ of A, 17 July <strong>1902</strong>, RG 94, NA.'"'QM Specification 318, adopted 10 March 1892; RG92, NA. Both the regulation and the specifications are veryspecific as to the crossed arrow badge being for the fatiguehat.'"'G.O. No. 31, HQ of A, 12 June <strong>1855</strong>, RG 94, NA. Forthe chapeau 1800-1851, see HOWELL AND KLOSTER, "<strong>United</strong><strong>States</strong> <strong>Army</strong> <strong>Headgear</strong> to 1854," pp. 1-8.'"'G.O. No. 3 WD, 24 March 1858; G.O. No. 27 WD, 22December 1859; both RG 94, NA.'"" On this, see Margerand, "Les Coiffeurs de I'armeefrangais."'"" Illustrated Catalogue of Arms and Military Goods, p.48. A photograph of General Winfield Scott and his stafftaken in Washington in 1861 show all holding chapeaux,but, with the excepdon of Scott's, the details are unclear.Scott is definitely holding the earlier high fan model. SeeMILLER, The Photographic History of the Civil War, vol. 1,p. 170.'"'G.O. No. 67 WD, 25 June 1873. This requirement wasrepeated in later general orders.^^^ Horstmann Bros. & Co., Illustrated Catalogue; U.S.WAR DEPARTMENT, Uniform of the <strong>Army</strong> of the <strong>United</strong>
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ABSTRACTHowell, Edgar M. United Sta
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ContentsPagePrefaceiiiThe 1855 Cava
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United States Army Headgear 1855-19
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NUMBER 30report, stated: "The hat p
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NUMBER 30acorns %g inches long and
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NUMBER 30the pattern." The rate of
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NUMBER 30FIGURE 3.—1858 Army hat.
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NUMBER 3011model, number 60 in the
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NUMBER 30 13"the desired modificati
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NUMBER 30 15the sun in the top. The
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NUMBER 30 17FIGURE 8.—1858 forage
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NUMBER 30 19Hardtack and Coffee, ca
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NUMBER 3021FIGURE 11.—a, Brigadie
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NUMBER 30 23short "shell" jacket "f
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NUMBER 30 26broad, securely soldere
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NUMBER 30 27worn in the picture wer
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NUMBER 30 29This communication elic
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NUMBER 30 31FIGURE 17.—"The [Scot
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NUMBER 30 33time for issue in the c
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NUMBER 30 35be at too great a dista
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NUMBER 3037half (5/2) part of washb
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NUMBER 30 39trimmings for all enlis
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NUMBER 30 41ing the upper space for
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NUMBER 30rear one to a correspondin
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NUMBER 30 46FIGURE 29.—1872 enlis
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NUMBER 3047FIGURE 32.—^The Bent &
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NUMBER 3049of strong split-leather
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NUMBER 30 51''""MttfenFIGURE 35.—
- Page 61 and 62: NUMBER 30 53(which he thought might
- Page 63 and 64: NUMBER 30 55FIGURE 38.—Captain Be
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- Page 69 and 70: NUMBER 30 61hat. In June 1899 the P
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- Page 75 and 76: NUMBER 30 67to be sent to Washingto
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- Page 79 and 80: NUMBER 30 71FIGURE 48.—Officers'
- Page 81 and 82: NUMBER 3073The adoption of the whit
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- Page 85 and 86: NUMBER 30this last model made no pr
- Page 87 and 88: NUMBER 30 79WAR DEPARTMENT,QUARTERM
- Page 89 and 90: NUMBER 3081FIGURE 58.—1864 chapea
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- Page 93 and 94: NUMBER 3085FIGURE 63.—1895 forage
- Page 95 and 96: NUMBER 30 87of not less than 9.24 g
- Page 97 and 98: AppendixMAKERS OF HEADGEARThe chron
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- Page 101 and 102: NUMBER 3093all OQMG, LS, Clothing,
- Page 103 and 104: NUMBER 30 95"Jesup to Thomas, 8 Dec
- Page 105 and 106: NUMBER 3097OQMG, Reg. LR, Clothing,
- Page 107 and 108: NUMBER 30 99October of 1870. See Me
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