80 SMITHSONIAN STUDIES IN HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGYFIGURE 57.—Indian scout campaign hat.(which came to a head at Wounded Knee Creek)an increase in the enlistment of scouts was anticipatedand the Quartermaster General directed theprocurement of uniform items to equip an additional800, with consideration to be given to anyitems then unissued. Horstmann of Philadelphiawas awarded a contract for 577 hats at $1.40 each.'°°The following spring with the Indian troublesresolved, the number of scouts was directed to bedropped to a total of 150 in all departments, and in1899 to 75. In the uniform change of <strong>1902</strong>, the distinctivehat and overcoat for scouts was dropped.'"'Two specimens of the hat have been examined,both from the War Department Collection and inunissued condition. They conform to specificationswithin close tolerances and both carry the maker'slabel "W.H. Hurlbut/Contract/Sept. 29th 1890./737 Broadway, New York" on the inner side of theI^-inch brown leather sweat. The edge of thebrim carries three rows of stitching and the blacksilk band measures s/^ inches. The one hat cordin the National Collections also conforms to specifications.The only insignia examined is an admittedreproduction, asserted to have been madefrom an original. It also conforms. The specificationdescribing this latter also describes the helmetfront plate for scouts as being that "prescribed formounted men with the device (crossed arrows) inlieu of the number," that is, on the shield. Helmetside buttons were also to carry the crossed arrows.'"'THE CHAPEAU, 1859-1936Although the "chapeau," "chapeau bras," or"chapeau de bras," as it was variously called, hadbeen a standard item of military headgear since theturn of the 19th century, it was not authorized inthe 1851 uniform change. As a concession to theranking officers of the service, however, general officersand colonels holding the brevet rank of generalwere allowed to continue wearing their chapeauxon ceremonial occasions and when not serving withtroops.'"' In 1858 a chapeau was reauthorized forgeneral wear, and this time for field officers as wellas those of the general staff. In December 1859 anew style of chapeau came into being, the 1858order being modified "to permit all officers of theGeneral Staff, and Staff Corps, to wear, at their option,a light French chapeau, either stiff crown orflat . officers below the rank of field officers towear but two feathers." '"'No more detail was given over the years in theregulations and no specifications were drafted intil1912. Still there is no doubt that the form, followingthe French as it did, was much lower than formerly.""This is borne out by an illustration in the1864 Schuyler, Hartley, and Graham, IllustratedCatalogue (Figure 58).'"" The 1872 and later regulationscarry only the notation "according to pattern."The only other mention of the chapeau wasin the 1873 general order which stated that it wasto "be worn with the front peak turned slightly tothe left, showing the gilt ornaments upon the rightside." '"^In 1877 Horstmann Bros, catalog depicts a "cha-
NUMBER 3081FIGURE 58.—1864 chapeau. (From Schuyler, Hardey, & Graham, Illustrated Catalogue, 1864.)FIGURE 59.—1877 chapeau. (From Horstmann Bros. & Co., Illustrated Catalogue, 1877.)peau—U.S. <strong>Army</strong>—Staff" (Figure 59) with a somewhatlower fan than that in the Schuyler, Hartley,and Graham catalog and which closely approximatesthe chapeau in the illustrated 1881 regulations.(Figure 60) .'"* This lower fan form continuesin the illustrated 1888 regulations, in an 1897W. A. Raymold catalog, and in the illustrated 1907regulations. In these latter three, however, thereare two distinct changes from the earlier modelswhich carry on through: the loop (which carries theinsignia) becomes noticeably more narrow andshorter and the black silk cockade, which backs theloop changes from round to eliptical.'"The only official description came very late, in1912.13. CHAPEAU.—To be of black silk plush having a rosetteof black silk, elliptical in shape, about 5 inches long and 3inches wide on right side in center, slanting forward; in thecenter of this to be a strip of gold lace, the coat of armsof the <strong>United</strong> <strong>States</strong> in gold or gilt bullion embroidered onthe upper end; the lower end to have one large gilt coatbutton, all to be surrounded by gold or gilt embroidery Y^inch in width. To have over center of chapeau two blackostrich plumes extending down to end of chapeau in rear. Tohave in both front and back a tassel consisting of five each,large and small, gold or gilt bullions about 3 inches long,to have on each side a. IY2 inch black corded silk ribbonrunning diagonally from ball of tassel to center of chapeau,the ends fastened under sweat leather about 2/2 inchesapart.^""In the absence of precise descriptions and scaledillustrations of the pre-1912 models, we are fortunatein having at hand a number of biographicalspecimens, the use-dates of which can be accuratelybracketed. The 1859 model is best typifiedby that owned by Major General George B. McClellan who resigned from the <strong>Army</strong> in 1864. Thisparticular specimen (Figure 61) could hardly havebeen worn prior to 1859 since McClellan was anofficer in the Corps of Engineers in 1851 when thechapeau was discontinued and his model 1840
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ABSTRACTHowell, Edgar M. United Sta
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ContentsPagePrefaceiiiThe 1855 Cava
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United States Army Headgear 1855-19
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NUMBER 30report, stated: "The hat p
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NUMBER 30acorns %g inches long and
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NUMBER 30the pattern." The rate of
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NUMBER 30FIGURE 3.—1858 Army hat.
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NUMBER 3011model, number 60 in the
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NUMBER 30 13"the desired modificati
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NUMBER 30 15the sun in the top. The
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NUMBER 30 17FIGURE 8.—1858 forage
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NUMBER 30 19Hardtack and Coffee, ca
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NUMBER 3021FIGURE 11.—a, Brigadie
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NUMBER 30 23short "shell" jacket "f
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NUMBER 30 26broad, securely soldere
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NUMBER 30 27worn in the picture wer
- Page 37 and 38: NUMBER 30 29This communication elic
- Page 39 and 40: NUMBER 30 31FIGURE 17.—"The [Scot
- Page 41 and 42: NUMBER 30 33time for issue in the c
- Page 43 and 44: NUMBER 30 35be at too great a dista
- Page 45 and 46: NUMBER 3037half (5/2) part of washb
- Page 47 and 48: NUMBER 30 39trimmings for all enlis
- Page 49 and 50: NUMBER 30 41ing the upper space for
- Page 51 and 52: NUMBER 30rear one to a correspondin
- Page 53 and 54: NUMBER 30 46FIGURE 29.—1872 enlis
- Page 55 and 56: NUMBER 3047FIGURE 32.—^The Bent &
- Page 57 and 58: NUMBER 3049of strong split-leather
- Page 59 and 60: NUMBER 30 51''""MttfenFIGURE 35.—
- Page 61 and 62: NUMBER 30 53(which he thought might
- Page 63 and 64: NUMBER 30 55FIGURE 38.—Captain Be
- Page 65 and 66: NUMBER 30 57campaign hat for the Ar
- Page 67 and 68: NUMBER 30 59salvage something from
- Page 69 and 70: NUMBER 30 61hat. In June 1899 the P
- Page 71 and 72: NUMBER 3063the left side, pass diag
- Page 73 and 74: NUMBER 30 65.LJU^.."*^..FIGURE 44.
- Page 75 and 76: NUMBER 30 67to be sent to Washingto
- Page 77 and 78: NUMBER 30 69with brass sliding-buck
- Page 79 and 80: NUMBER 30 71FIGURE 48.—Officers'
- Page 81 and 82: NUMBER 3073The adoption of the whit
- Page 83 and 84: NUMBER 3075i >•^\Wiii I ifiiiniim
- Page 85 and 86: NUMBER 30this last model made no pr
- Page 87: NUMBER 30 79WAR DEPARTMENT,QUARTERM
- Page 91 and 92: NUMBER 30geon 1880 and Surgeon Gene
- Page 93 and 94: NUMBER 3085FIGURE 63.—1895 forage
- Page 95 and 96: NUMBER 30 87of not less than 9.24 g
- Page 97 and 98: AppendixMAKERS OF HEADGEARThe chron
- Page 99 and 100: List of AbbreviationsAAGAAQMAGAGOAQ
- Page 101 and 102: NUMBER 3093all OQMG, LS, Clothing,
- Page 103 and 104: NUMBER 30 95"Jesup to Thomas, 8 Dec
- Page 105 and 106: NUMBER 3097OQMG, Reg. LR, Clothing,
- Page 107 and 108: NUMBER 30 99October of 1870. See Me
- Page 109 and 110: NUMBER 30 101'"* See above, pp. 35-
- Page 111 and 112: NUMBER 30 103Monroe, Va., in 1878.
- Page 113 and 114: NUMBER 30 105""Endorsement, 24 May
- Page 115 and 116: ReferencesThe bulk of the source ma
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