56SMITHSONIAN STUDIES IN HISTORY AND TECHNOLOGY•'::Ml^^iLM:i-^^FIGURE 39.—<strong>Army</strong> personnel wearing 1872 campaign hat.(Idaho Historical Society.)one of the hats be sent to Warnock & Co. for theiropinion on the material, as they had originally furnishedthe sample approved by the board. Warnockreplied to the effect that while the hat submittedcontained the same material as the sampleoriginally furnished and in the correct proportions,they had discovered that they had made a mistakein the stock used. They proposed to substitute anew combination of materials to remedy the defect,which would result in a new hat somewhat moreexpensive but one which they would guarantee.All this Meigs reported to the Secretary of War ina brief"" and asked for instructions as to how toproceed. The Secretary replied that in his opinionit was poor economy to buy something cheap simplybecause it was cheap, and directed Meigs to haveWarnock make up a dozen sample hats of differentquality and pattern, but of the recommended material,and subject them to trial.The Philadelphia Depot was instructed to procurethe hats from Warnock, as well as samplesfrom other manufacturers and send them to Washington.Philadelphia found the Warnock hats tobe "stiff and ungainly" and unsuited to field wearand sent only one on to Meigs together with threemade by P. Herst of Philadelphia, indicating strongpreference for one of the Herst models. Meigs inturn forwarded the preferred Herst hat along withthe Warnock pattern and an issue model to theSecretary with the recommendation that 100 of theHerst be purchased and sent to the Department ofArizona for trial by the same troops that were thenrunning tests on cork helmets. The suggestion wasapproved 18 September and the hats procured andsent West.On 2 October, Meigs wrote the Adjutant Generalrequesting that a board of officers be set up to consideramong other things "the best pattern of a
NUMBER 30 57campaign hat for the <strong>Army</strong>." Such a board, to beheaded by Bvt. Maj. Gen. D. H. Rucker, was orderedconvened in December.'"In January 1876, Meigs forwarded the board allcorrespondence on the question of a change in hatswith the information that 100 of a proposed newmodel had been sent for trial to the Department ofArizona and requested that it review the wholematter.'" The board in turn requested all reportsof the trials and was told that none had been received.(Actually no reports of the trials were receivedin Washington prior to the submission ofthe board's report.)'"Late in March, after somewhat lengthy deliberations,the board submitted its report together witha sample of the hat it recommended.'" Taking itsdirective comprehensively, the group did not confineitself simply to the pattern of the hat, butrather "extended its inquiries to the questions ofmaterial, weight, ventilation and durability combinedwith a proper degree of economy." As anexample of somewhat inverse thinking, the remainderof the report is quoted in full.The board is of the opinion that the Campaign Hat forthe <strong>Army</strong> should be soft and pliable, of light-weight, firmtexture and the greatest possible durability that can be obtainedfor a reasonable price.With this view the Board has procured information fromall available sources in regard to the manufacture and componentmaterials of the various hats of the character namedfabricated for <strong>Army</strong> and commercial purposes. Experts inthe manufacture of hats of all kinds have been examinedand their opinions obtained.There appear to be two distinct kinds or classes of felthats:—one made from fur and the other from wool.Those manufactured from fur are of it vast variety ofqualities ranging from very low to very high prices accordingto the quality and kind of material. It is, however, generallyconceded that no fur hat, that will give good service,can be manufactured, except from the better quality offurs and at a price varying from $2.50/100 to $3.00/100each. If from the best quality of furs, the prices wouldrange much higher.Whether made from fur or from wool, no inspection canexactly determine the particular material or materials fromwhich made, so that in any case, much reliance must beplaced on the integrity of the manufacturer. No positivetest can be applied save that of actual wear.It is, however, thought by the Board that there will beless opportunity for imposition in the manufacture of woo]hats, while the cost of material being much less, there w'llbe less inducement in that direction.From all the information the Board has been able to obtain,wool hats of the best grade will give equal service withthe best grade of fur hats. This has been attested, even byprominent hatters engaged exclusively in the manufacture offur hats. Severe tests were also instituted by the Board withsatisfactory results.In view of all these facts, and the greatly decreased costto the soldier, together with the large saving to the government,the Board is induced to recommend felt hats made ofwool for issue to the enlisted men of the <strong>Army</strong>.The pattern recommended for adoption, has been sent tothe office of the Quartermaster General, duly sealed foridentification. It is a plain black, velvet finished, hat, similarto the fatigue hat worn by officers during the late war; withcrown 5/2 inches high, and brim 2% inches wide, for mediumsized hats, the edge of the brim turned over andstitched, without binding; with a revolving ventilator ineach side 3/2 inches above the brim; and with a japannedsweat leather.For all purposes of the service it is believed that blackis the most desirable color.It is further recommended that the campaign hat for officersbe of the same color and pattern as that for enlistedmen, either of fur or wool as may be preferred by the individualofficer. If of fur, the brim need not be turned overnor bound. A sample hat of fur, duly sealed, has also beensent to the Quartermaster General's Office.The Secretary of War approved the findings ofMeigs and directed Rucker to submit three additionalhats of the same pattern together with specifications,the latter being duly adopted.'"WAR DEPARTMENT,QUARTERMASTER GENERAL'S OFFICESpecifications for Wool CampaignHats.Mixture.—To be of clean wool, of fine grade, equal inquality to XXX Ohio fleece. No waste or shoddy to be usedin mixture.Weight.—Hat bodies to be weighed out, five and one-half(5 /2 ) ounces heavy, of clean wool.Shape.—The 7J^-size to be six (6) inches deep to centerof tip, and five and one-half (55/2) inches deep at front andrear. Other sizes in proportion, varying one-sixteenth (Vie)of an inch to each size.Brim.—Edge of brim to be turned over three-eighths (Ys)of an inch on the upper side, and stitched down with two(2) rows of stitching, and to measure two and a half (2 Va)inches in front and rear and two and five-eighths (2^)inches in width at sides.Trimming.—Trimmed with eight (8) ligne Union braid,same quality as on sample hat; to be sewed on by sewingmachine. Sweat to be of brown Japanned lea her, turnedon top, one and three-quarters (1 ^) inch wide, and sewedin hat by sewing machine. Two of "Brachers' Patent Ventilators,"one on each side of crown, three and one-half (3^2)inches from brim.The hat to be velvet finished, soft and pliable, same asstandard sample.Not more than six (6) hats to be packed in each bandbox.
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ABSTRACTHowell, Edgar M. United Sta
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ContentsPagePrefaceiiiThe 1855 Cava
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United States Army Headgear 1855-19
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NUMBER 30report, stated: "The hat p
- Page 13 and 14: NUMBER 30acorns %g inches long and
- Page 15 and 16: NUMBER 30the pattern." The rate of
- Page 17 and 18: NUMBER 30FIGURE 3.—1858 Army hat.
- Page 19 and 20: NUMBER 3011model, number 60 in the
- Page 21 and 22: NUMBER 30 13"the desired modificati
- Page 23 and 24: NUMBER 30 15the sun in the top. The
- Page 25 and 26: NUMBER 30 17FIGURE 8.—1858 forage
- Page 27 and 28: NUMBER 30 19Hardtack and Coffee, ca
- Page 29 and 30: NUMBER 3021FIGURE 11.—a, Brigadie
- Page 31 and 32: NUMBER 30 23short "shell" jacket "f
- Page 33 and 34: NUMBER 30 26broad, securely soldere
- Page 35 and 36: NUMBER 30 27worn in the picture wer
- Page 37 and 38: NUMBER 30 29This communication elic
- Page 39 and 40: NUMBER 30 31FIGURE 17.—"The [Scot
- Page 41 and 42: NUMBER 30 33time for issue in the c
- Page 43 and 44: NUMBER 30 35be at too great a dista
- Page 45 and 46: NUMBER 3037half (5/2) part of washb
- Page 47 and 48: NUMBER 30 39trimmings for all enlis
- Page 49 and 50: NUMBER 30 41ing the upper space for
- Page 51 and 52: NUMBER 30rear one to a correspondin
- Page 53 and 54: NUMBER 30 46FIGURE 29.—1872 enlis
- Page 55 and 56: NUMBER 3047FIGURE 32.—^The Bent &
- Page 57 and 58: NUMBER 3049of strong split-leather
- Page 59 and 60: NUMBER 30 51''""MttfenFIGURE 35.—
- Page 61 and 62: NUMBER 30 53(which he thought might
- Page 63: NUMBER 30 55FIGURE 38.—Captain Be
- Page 67 and 68: NUMBER 30 59salvage something from
- Page 69 and 70: NUMBER 30 61hat. In June 1899 the P
- Page 71 and 72: NUMBER 3063the left side, pass diag
- Page 73 and 74: NUMBER 30 65.LJU^.."*^..FIGURE 44.
- Page 75 and 76: NUMBER 30 67to be sent to Washingto
- Page 77 and 78: NUMBER 30 69with brass sliding-buck
- Page 79 and 80: NUMBER 30 71FIGURE 48.—Officers'
- Page 81 and 82: NUMBER 3073The adoption of the whit
- Page 83 and 84: NUMBER 3075i >•^\Wiii I ifiiiniim
- Page 85 and 86: NUMBER 30this last model made no pr
- Page 87 and 88: NUMBER 30 79WAR DEPARTMENT,QUARTERM
- Page 89 and 90: NUMBER 3081FIGURE 58.—1864 chapea
- Page 91 and 92: NUMBER 30geon 1880 and Surgeon Gene
- Page 93 and 94: NUMBER 3085FIGURE 63.—1895 forage
- Page 95 and 96: NUMBER 30 87of not less than 9.24 g
- Page 97 and 98: AppendixMAKERS OF HEADGEARThe chron
- Page 99 and 100: List of AbbreviationsAAGAAQMAGAGOAQ
- Page 101 and 102: NUMBER 3093all OQMG, LS, Clothing,
- Page 103 and 104: NUMBER 30 95"Jesup to Thomas, 8 Dec
- Page 105 and 106: NUMBER 3097OQMG, Reg. LR, Clothing,
- Page 107 and 108: NUMBER 30 99October of 1870. See Me
- Page 109 and 110: NUMBER 30 101'"* See above, pp. 35-
- Page 111 and 112: NUMBER 30 103Monroe, Va., in 1878.
- Page 113 and 114: NUMBER 30 105""Endorsement, 24 May
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ReferencesThe bulk of the source ma
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M MBIiR 30 10910, No. 355-10, 19 Se