O Scale Trains Magazine Online

to install the timbers between the rails. The first thing I dois to install the guardrails on the inside of both of the mainrails (Photos 7 and 8), using sections of rail cut to a lengththat match the width of the road. Before you install the rails,file the ends of the guardrails at a forty-five degree angle, asseen in the photos. Once I have done this I clamp these rails911121013in place and then run some CA glue along the joint to bondthem. With these rails glued in place, cut some filler stripsfrom pieces of tie material to just over an inch in length(Photo 9). These are then glued in between the guardrails(Photo 10). I have installed these because I am using profileties, which are thinner than regular ties, and I need to raisethem up to rail height. With these spacers in place, I’m readyto glue in the timbers. If you are using full-thickness ties,omit this last step.Again, bevel the outside end of the timbers as shown inFigure 1 and Photo 11. The timbers between the rails arenow glued in place. All that’s left to do now is to install thetimbers on the outside of the rails (Photo 12). This is doneusing the same technique as the inside timbers. With all thetimberwork done, paint them using the same paint (Rail TieBrown, in my case) that you used for your ties (Photo 13).Clean the paint off the tops of the rails, then do any painttouch-ups. Your grade crossing is done (Photo 14).If you decide to make an asphalt crossing, you wouldinstall the guardrails as described, then use either sheet styreneor plaster to make the paving between the rails. Paintthe “asphalt” to match the roadway leading up to it.Speaking of roadways, in Parts 16 and 17 I will be showingyou how I make my roads and curbs, and how to paintand finish them off.28 • O Scale Trains - May/June ’07