Burgundy 2010 En Primeur - Armit

Domaine Leflaive
White price per case in bond
Bourgogne Blanc £245.00
In mid-November, the Bourgogne was in its final stages of malolactic fermentation and thus the
true aromatics are still to be revealed. On the palate, there is obvious freshness and energy and
an intensity that is unusual at generic level. The finish is similarly bright, with the acidity cleansing
the palate yet the wine retains a feel of succulence and completeness. Drink from 2013
Puligny Montrachet £435.00
Bursting with life, this is an exhilarating wine, with scented floral notes and a touch of confit
lemon. On the palate, the wine shows tension and a strong mineral thread, leading to a vibrant
finish. Drink from 2014.
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon £595.00
Starting out with discretion, this reveals more and more with agitation as complex aromas
emerge from the glass. Notes of small citrus fruits with a gentle spice lead via a fine thread
onto a generous mid-palate kept in check by zippy acidity. The weight transfers to the finish with
great elegance, showing poise and dexterity and no lack of finesse. Drink from 2015.
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Folatières 6 bottles £495.00
There is greater flamboyance here, with notes of stone fruits and a sense of raw energy from
the off. Inviting and full of character, this none the less has plenty of class, finishing on a
distinctly mineral theme and with a burst of acidity. With a little more time in bottle, this should
be exceptional. Drink from 2015.
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Combettes 6 bottles £550.00
There is stylishness and an inner confidence to this wine: it knows it’s good but you have to do
the work to understand it. Again, the hallmark Leflaive vitality and tension is immediately there
but so to is a layered structure of complex, interwoven aromatics. Patience to be rewarded here.
Drink from 2016.
Domaine Leflaive
White price per case in bond
Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles 6 bottles £595.00
Pucelles has developed at a slower pace than its stable mates and shows more subtlety and
discretion at this stage, occasionally giving glimpses of its clear talent but then retreating. The
aromatics are at the grapefruit end of the citric spectrum. On the palate, the wine feels tender
and delicate at first but it builds in the mouth and then shows clear intensity on the finish, giving
a real saline burst. Another one that is asking for time. Drink from 2016.
Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet 6 bottles £1075.00
Often the Bienvenues is the most stubborn of the Leflaive Grand Crus but this showing was
tremendous, displaying a full range of aromatics from stem ginger to summer flowers via
mandarin and lime. On the palate, the wine is dense yet racy, showing great depth from the old
vines and a confronting minerality that takes over on the finish. One of the most memorable
showings for some time. Drink from 2017.
Bâtard Montrachet 6 bottles £1195.00
Not to be out done by the Bienvenues, the Bâtard takes a step back and asks for a moment of silence.
With the floor to itself, the wine immediately displays grandeur and control. There is tremendous depth,
intensity and transparency here and more finesse than is customary. The wine continues to build in
the mouth, showing abundant minerality. A serious, and memorable Grand Cru. Drink from 2018.
Chevalier Montrachet 6 bottles £1375.00
To the grand finale, then and unmistakably, this is a classic Chevalier, showing subtlety,
intelligence and restraint. Whereas the Bâtard is open and revealing, this is altogether more
ethereal, with a lacy structure and delectable bursts of little fruits and white flowers. The
detailing is quite phenomenal, as close to perfection as one can hope for. Drink from 2018.
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