Wealden Times | WT166 | December 2015 | Interiors supplement inside

FreeImages.com/B.B
Clay soil
Clay can turn out to be one of the best soils – in the
end. It is fertile and tends to be slightly alkaline, which
many vegetables – especially brassicas – appreciate. The
main problem is that it is hard to work, it’s claggy
through the winter, slow to warm in spring, and then
becomes like concrete until the autumn. To improve
clay soil, just keep adding bulky organic matter and
grit. Clay and silty soils can be prone to forming pans of
compacted soil, either on or under the surface, leading
to problems with drainage and poor penetration of plant
roots. If your soil is badly compacted, you will need to
(cancel your gym membership and enjoy some outdoor
workouts) dig down and break up the compacted areas,
incorporating organic matter – this can be homemade
compost, well-rotted manure or spent mushroom compost.
Sandy soil
This is lovely and easy to work, fast to warm, so the season
can start earlier. The problem with this type of soil, however,
is that it is very free-draining, so water and the precious
nutrients dissolved in it leach quickly out of the soil, leaving
it parched and dry. Adding bulky organic matter will
help sandy soil retain moisture and improve its fertility.
Make some compost
There are two main types of compostable material – nitrogen
releasing, or ‘green’ waste (grass clippings, veg peelings etc)
and carbon releasing, or ‘brown’ waste (shredded stems, paper
and card). These need to be added to the compost heap in
roughly equal measures and also be well mixed. If too much
‘green’ stuff is added, the heap will become a stinky mush
and if too much ‘brown’ stuff is put on it will take ages for
the heap to rot down at all. The other vital ingredients to the
compost heap are air and water. The heap needs to be moist,
but not wet. You can speed up the rate of decomposition by
adding activators like manure, existing well-rotted compost,
garden soil, or shop-bought activators. Peeing on your heap
is extra planet saving, as it also saves on flushing but watch
out for (among other things) brambles and wasp’s nests.
Regular mixing or turning over of the ingredients in your
heap will also help it rot down more quickly. This is how the
‘tumbling’ compost bins are able to make compost so quickly.
Leaf mould
Leaves can be incorporated into the existing compost
heap or, for a superior product, make a separate heap (or
use a perforated black plastic bag) for leaves. It will take
longer to rot down than ordinary compost (up to 2-3
years), but is gorgeous once it does, highly prized as a
component of potting compost, or as a fine grade mulch.
Green manure
Often clover, peas or other legumes that fix atmospheric
nitrogen are sown in the ground where the crop is to
grow and then dug in, so that the fertilising nitrogen is
released as the plants decay. They have the additional
advantage of preventing soil and nutrients being lost in
winter weather – and (hooray) keeping out weeds.
I’ll contemplate the microbial population (of Europe)
lurking under my nails with fresh interest and less
shame in future, although I still lament the fact that
nail varnish is a pointless addition to my Christmas
list. If you’re now doing the same, take comfort in the
benefits that come along with a healthy dose of dirt.
Let’s get on with that mud bath! Happy Gardening.
Contact Jo for border designs, planting and garden
advice: 01233 861149, jo@hornbrookmanor.co.uk
FreeImages.com/Woolpert
139 www.wealdentimes.co.uk