PI ZERO

PI ZERO CONSOLLER
Carving the case
Before we do anything else,
though, we need to create some
more space in the controller itself.
We’ll work on the back plate to
snip off the support struts first;
your mileage may vary depending
on which USB controller you buy
in the cables to ultimately connect
the other end to your Pi Zero. To
keep things really simple, we’re
going to connect a slimline mini
HDMI-to-HDMI cable to the Zero
raised components on the back,
so we’re using sticky Velcro
Command Strips. This gives us
the clearance we need to steer
clear of the components, as well
Tip
TOOLS
YOU’LL NEED
(there are hundreds), but ours has inside the controller. With our as the flexibility to remove or vary
Make sure you
three supports on each side of the controller, it’s actually really easy the Zero’s placement during the
have a very sharp
controller. Snip them with some just to line up the HDMI cable with build process. Once it’s securely
craft knife, a
side cutters or chop them with a the USB cable exit on the controller Velcroed in place, we can also work
decent soldering
craft knife, and then sand down itself, but you’ll need to use a craft on the placement of the battery
iron, and a set of
any sharp edges so they’re flush knife to carve a larger opening and and the PowerBoost 500, safe in
small screwdrivers
to the case.
carefully strip back the housing of the knowledge everything fits
to hand – you
We’ll also likely need to remove the mini HDMI connector to get it together as it should. We plan to
won’t get far
a couple of the screw hole supports to fit snugly.
position the PowerBoost board just
#pizero
without them.
on the controller itself, but don’t
under the right side of the Pi Zero,
get carried away yet – you should Securing your Pi Zero so the micro USB power connector
play it by ear as we try to fit
The next thing to do is to secure on it sits against the bottom-right
everything inside, so we remove as the Pi Zero in place. Its location straight edge at the base of the
few of the screw holes as possible. in the case is decided by the
controller. This allows us to add
Once complete, we’ll need HDMI cable. We want to fix
a power switch in the bottomcentre
of the controller and place
to snip off the four USB wires it directly to the controller’s
connected to the controller’s control circuit board. There’s a the battery in the right-hand
control board, leaving enough play good chance there’s a couple of compartment, which is currently
completely vacant.
Since the PowerBoost 500
automatically powers on when
you connect a battery to it, we
need to fit a power switch to
turn our SNES Consoller on and
raspberrypi.org/magpi February 2016 19
off. We’re using a very standard
three-pin switch that we got from
a basic electronics kit, and three
colour-coded male-to-female
jumper cables – for power (red),
ground (brown), and control
(orange) – with snipped-off male
ends so they can be soldered to
the PowerBoost board later. Next,
tape the female ends of the jumper
cables together and then simply
slot the switch into it. We position