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HUNT THE SNARK<br />

Tutorial<br />

MODIFYING THE REMOTE<br />

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>STEP-01<br />

Prepare the stripboard<br />

Cut a piece of stripboard, 20 columns of 11 hole tracks,<br />

and break the track at the places shown. Do this with<br />

a scalpel so that the minimum amount of copper on<br />

each side of the hole is removed. Then, using solder<br />

braid, remove the four-position slider switch from the<br />

remote’s circuit board.<br />

>STEP-02<br />

Mount the components<br />

Solder the 3K3 resistors across the breaks in the tracks and add the<br />

transistors. The pinout for the transistors shown is the most common<br />

one; check that the transistors you’re using match this. Finally, solder the<br />

double row pin-header socket between the track breaks.<br />

Pin 1 Pin 2 Pin 15 Pin 3 Pin 4<br />

was to understand what was happening in the circuit,<br />

so it was out with the screwdrivers to prise the two<br />

halves of the case apart. This was the hardest part of<br />

the project and the result is shown in Fig 1 (overleaf).<br />

Inside was a single-chip encoder SC5262, and a crystal<br />

oscillator which acts as the 433.92MHz transmitter.<br />

Remote controllers have a small grid of tracks covered<br />

in dark material, and carbon pills on a membrane are<br />

pressed down to short these tracks together. This<br />

remote, however, was a little unconventional, in that<br />

there were three sets of wires that were all shorted<br />

together when a button was pushed. We traced the<br />

wiring and, with reference to the encoder’s data<br />

sheet, worked out what was happening.<br />

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The design<br />

Basically, for each channel there’s an on and off<br />

button. Pressing either shorts one of four data<br />

lines (one for each channel) to ground and at the same<br />

time shorts out the transmit-enable line or another<br />

data line, depending on whether it’s the on or off<br />

column of the channel. The key to understanding the<br />

operation was to spot that there’s a diode that also<br />

pulls the transmit-enable line down when that data<br />

line is pulled down. While the remote runs off a very<br />

small 12V battery, the only signals changed by the<br />

key presses are to either let a pin float, or connect<br />

it to ground. This makes the interface circuit very<br />

simple indeed. All that’s needed is an open collector<br />

Pin 6 Pin 5 Pin 9<br />

Pin 16 Pin 7 Pin 8<br />

>STEP-03<br />

Wire it into the remote<br />

Add the wires to the board. There are two sorts: those that connect<br />

between points on the board, and those that go from the board to the<br />

pins of the encoder chip on the remote’s main board. Use thin wires for<br />

this; we used 28 AWG solid wire for the point-to-point ones, and very<br />

thin multi-stranded flexible wires from board to chip. Mark the lowerleft<br />

socket with a white marker pen; this is the ground connection.<br />

raspberrypi.org/magpi February 2016 53

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