Wealden Times | WT170 | April 2016 | Garden supplement inside
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WT <strong>Garden</strong> Supplement<br />
FreeImages.com/ Stephen Metcalfe<br />
Alliums make good companions for many<br />
crops, as their strong smell confuses pests<br />
can be almost any shape – circular, half moon, triangular,<br />
or even part of a larger complicated shape or pattern, as in<br />
a parterre or knot garden. The advantage of using beds with<br />
definite shapes, whether raised or not, is that it is easier to<br />
keep the whole thing under control and free of weeds, with<br />
clear paths for access. If you want to create a naturalistic<br />
look, or are growing vegetables among your flowers in a true<br />
cottage garden style, plant in drifts and make each group of<br />
plants a tear drop shape, so that one variety blends into the<br />
next, and crops that go well together are next to one another.<br />
Good companions<br />
Some crops are happy to share a bed, others will complain.<br />
A few (endearingly called ‘nurse’ crops) will even look out<br />
for the others and offer physical or chemical protection.<br />
Broad beans are used to protect emerging potato plants from<br />
the wind and late frosts, French marigolds (Tagetes) are<br />
traditionally grown among tomatoes to ward off whitefly.<br />
Leguminous plants like peas and beans trap atmospheric<br />
nitrogen in root nodules and make it useable, so leave the<br />
roots of peas and beans in the ground to benefit the next crop.<br />
There’s an old Native American bed-sharing technique<br />
called The Three Sisters, involving sweetcorn, squash and<br />
climbing beans. They all need the same rich, moisture<br />
retentive soil, but the beans add nitrogen and use the<br />
sweetcorn for support, the squash has large leaves that act<br />
as a weed suppressant and provide shade at the roots of the<br />
others. Individually, these crops take up a lot of ground<br />
but, because they use different parts of the space, they can<br />
all be grown together in just one bed. In theory this combo<br />
sounds ideal, but in reality it can end up as a huge mess<br />
(that’s sisters for you). Make sure your beans and squash<br />
aren’t huge, vigorous varieties that will swamp the corn.<br />
Alliums make good companions for many crops, as their<br />
strong smell confuses pests that are drawn to particular<br />
plants. Carrots interspersed with chives, leeks or onions will<br />
deter carrot root fly. Herbs are also very useful. Coriander<br />
and chervil will repel aphids, fennel or dill are good among<br />
cabbage and lettuce (don’t use both or they’ll hybridise and<br />
you’ll end up with unsavoury ‘dennel’ or ‘fill’…). These<br />
umbellifers will also attract pollinators and predatory wasps.<br />
Beneficial bugs and beasts<br />
To encourage beneficial pollinating insects into your<br />
plot, plant nectar-rich flowers like ‘Poached egg flowers’,<br />
sweet peas and Verbena bonariensis. Deter Cabbage White<br />
butterflies from brassicas with a ‘trap’ crop of nasturtiums.<br />
This works best when the nasturtiums are planted away from<br />
the cabbages etc, otherwise they tend to go on to both…<br />
Birds are very useful in the veg patch (but put a cage around<br />
your fruit). All birds feed insects to their young in spring and,<br />
although birds will also eat your seeds, their bug-catching role<br />
in spring is very useful. Attract them by growing plants with<br />
good seed heads – poppies, sunflowers, cirsium and teasel.<br />
When companions fall out<br />
Self-seeding, nectar-rich flowers look gorgeous popping<br />
up serendipitously all over your plot – at first. Once you’ve<br />
allowed this to happen for a few seasons you may find yourself<br />
swamped in a tangle of rampant nasturtiums and thickets<br />
of African marigolds. I’ve let crocosmia creep in too (what<br />
was I thinking?!), and a forest of Verbena bonariensis. It looks<br />
wonderful but it can be a struggle to find the edible crops…<br />
In a multi-crop environment it’s tricky to work out which<br />
plants are weeds and which are prized seedlings; before<br />
you’ve had time to reach for your hoe the weeds can take<br />
over a newly cultivated patch. The textbook way to manage<br />
the rash of weeds that spring up in newly turned earth is<br />
to prepare the seed bed and leave it for three weeks, then<br />
slice the seedlings off with a nice sharp hoe (you could<br />
sharpen your hoe during the three week break). It needs to<br />
be sharp so that you don’t disturb the soil again – or you’ll<br />
have to leave it another three weeks. Once the bed is clear<br />
of weeds, sow your crop and – according to the textbooks<br />
– a clean, weed-free row of seedlings should appear.<br />
Growing flowers among your vegetables (or in my case,<br />
vegetables among the flowers) is a healthy and productive<br />
thing to do. Transforming a dull vegetable plot into a<br />
naturally flourishing and environmentally friendly space<br />
will bring appreciative visitors of all kinds – people and<br />
pollinators will want to spend time in it. It can get a little<br />
untidy if you’re not careful, but a few weeds and unruly<br />
seedlings are a small price to pay for a beautifully diverse<br />
and sustainable plot. Let’s get companionable out there.<br />
For border designs, planting and gardening ideas, contact<br />
Jo on 01233 861149 www.hornbrookmanor.co.uk<br />
Growing flowers among your vegetables<br />
is a healthy and productive thing to do<br />
FreeImages.com/ Jenny Sliwinski<br />
5 www.wealdentimes.co.uk<br />
06<strong>WT170</strong>Supplement.indd 5 23/03/<strong>2016</strong> 17:43